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November 30, 2016, 07:57:02 by picklesc | Views: 85 | Comments: 1

Hi All,

The window regulator on my 2011 i30 is now busted - the plastic clips have failed and the window has dropped down into the door. This is not the first time it's happened, but the first time out of warranty.

As has been mentioned in a few posts on the forum in the past, this is quite expensive to fix - the genuine clips can only be bought as part of the regulator panel, RRP $350.

I was wondering if anyone has experience using a "Regulator Repair Kit"? There are few on eBay and other parts sites, but I've no idea if they are any good.

For example:
(link) Hyundai i30 - Window Regulator - Cables, Full Repair Kits, Clips...
November 22, 2016, 09:59:11 by ctrc | Views: 385 | Comments: 18

Flooded Car
Hi guys,

I just bought myself a brand new i30 Active X GD5DA.
I did only 135kms so far and recently noticed some weird squishing noise coming from the left side inside the dashboard. At first, I thought the car manual was moving around in the glove compartment when taking roundabouts. Then I realized that the sound only happens when turning to the right...
Then I realized that the floor mat on the passenger side was gorged of water! And some water drops were actually falling from above (where the passenger legs/feet are).
I am thinking that maybe someone at the factory forgot his fish tank in there.  :P
I took photos of where the water seems to be coming from. Any idea what is that part and what could be the r...
November 18, 2016, 07:14:17 by DragOn | Views: 281 | Comments: 9

Footwell Lights
Fitting Aftermarket LED Footwell Lights

This How To was created post fitment.

After checking various forums and online videos, I discovered that there was not a lot of information out there on the fitment of aftermarket  footwell lights for the i30. Others had OEM kits fitted, and there was a Hyundai fitment guide that was posted on this forum, but as I did not want to spend big bucks for the original kit, I opted to try fitting aftermarket LEDís myself.
I wanted them to fade in and fade out with the roof lights, and not be on all the time, or only on with the headlights.
With some circuit testing, I found this was possible.
Posts on the sub...
November 16, 2016, 19:54:56 by raytheta | Views: 308 | Comments: 8

Hi everyone,

I purchased my 2nd I30 from a dealer last July, Only noticing now since colder weather that the windscreen is constantly fogging and will only remove with the A/C depressed which is stupit as im wasting my fuel due to this.
Ive tried using all the various diff dials as I used to in my previous model but to no avail.
A friend of mine also bought an I30 wagon and he says he gets same issue.
In my last I30 bought in 2012 I I did not have this issue (was diesel)
Am I doing something wrong or should I just bring back to garage as its under new warranty ?

Thanks a million in advance

November 14, 2016, 15:45:36 by lonypny | Views: 294 | Comments: 10

Sometimes before summer I noticed that the engine in my i30 takes a bit longer to warm up.
Called my mechanic and asked him to replace the thermostat, which he did.
Now with the colder weather it's even more noticable as it takes 10 mins of driving to get a normal temperature inside the cabin.

What else could it be besides the thermostat? Any other things to check?

For what it's worth - I don't pre-warm the engine before driving.

It's a 2009, 1.6HP iThink+ (Croatia)
November 11, 2016, 07:17:13 by DragOn | Views: 374 | Comments: 10

HOW TO: Fit LED Scuff Plates
LED Scuff Plate Fitment

This is my first attempt at a "how to", so hope you can follow it  :sweating:

Unfortunately I had fitted these scuff plates prior to thinking about a how-to, but the removal of the panels that the wiring hides under were easy enough to remove, so here goes:

The acrylic LED scuff plates were purchased from Aliexpress:
(link) Shop i30 led scuff plates online Gallery - Buy i30 led scuff plates for unbeatable low prices on

They cost me $62.00 which was the cheapest I could find at the ti...
November 08, 2016, 15:45:49 by charshan | Views: 209 | Comments: 5

Oil Leak
just had second service from Hyundai only 3,147 kms on clock told by them is normal that a vapour of oil comes from oil filler cap due to pressure. anybody heard of the problem
November 05, 2016, 20:27:51 by xiziz | Views: 189 | Comments: 3

Brake Pads
I searched around and could not find anything specific on this. Guess its the same on most cars, but I just wanna share some pictures today. :P

The main reason of doing this is to clean out rust, brake dust and relube the glidepins. Easy to replace the pads if needed too. (And we get some much appreciated garage time, wife won't go there :whistler: )

Some wire brushes, rasp(?), 14mm wrench, flathead screwdriver. Copper paste, high temp silicone grease and brakeclean. A bungee cord for tying the caliper up. Also gonna need a 13/16" socket to get the wheel off and a floor jack. Eye protection and a dustmask are recommended.

[img width=800 hei...
November 01, 2016, 13:01:00 by sidetops | Views: 241 | Comments: 3

Hi everyone, just bought a nice i30 1.4 SE in white, with 45,000 miles.

Lovely car, but have an issue. Had a look in the search function but can't find anything specific to answer the problem, and wondered if anyone knows what it might be.

When cold it is very hard to engage gear, especially reverse and first and second. However if I go for a drive, like the other day, for say 5 or 6 miles it becomes easier. I had parked the car for 20 minutes, and when I drove it home afterwards the gears where as smooth and easy as you like. 

Any ideas what it might be, please? Thanks in advance  :head_butt:

October 31, 2016, 10:54:19 by dnalor50 | Views: 585 | Comments: 16

I own a 2015 i30 SR manual. The car handles well, it is quiet, it has no rattles, but it has one glaring fault which Hyundai which not acknowledge, let alone resolve.

The manual gearbox is the slowest and most ponderous that I have encountered in a lifetime of driving manual cars. The clutch must be pushed hard to the floor for each gear change. The gear stick needs to be moved to the the point of engagement and then slowly eased into gear. Any attempt to do a quick change results in resistance, or a slight grating or snick of gears. The problem is most apparent under acceleration when changing from first to second. The change from first to second must be done rapidly to keep up with traffic. When going up hill changing down als...
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