i30 Owners Club

Racechip Pro Settings

Catman1 · 39 · 24845

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Offline Lakes

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hey paolo5 good to see your still happy with u i30  . just don't get as high as F 1 , I know what that = :rofl:


Offline Paolo5

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hey paolo5 good to see your still happy with u i30  . just don't get as high as F 1 , I know what that = :rofl:


HA! HA! HA! :snigger:

Hi Lakes

I'm still very happy with the i30 but drive the Getz most days. It is a really great little car in its own right too.


Offline Catman1

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Paulo5,

Thanks for your comments and I agree with your explaination of the performance difference. I am currently running D - 3 setting and find it quite suits to the driving I am doing. Power holds on longer than the C - 2 or C - 3 settings that I have also tried and suits overtaking on open road and freeways at 100 to 110k's. I have also noticed hardly any difference in fuel economy between the C - 2 & D - 3 settings even using cruise control.

Based on the emails from RaceChips recently and 25 years of rebuilding all types & breds of diesel engines (from 2.0LT 4 bangers to 68.0LT V16's), I am not overly concerned that a 20% to 30% power increase will damage an engine as most will take this increase (Petrol or Diesel) quite happily. Will it it have an effect on the longevity of the engine? Probably! How much? Who knows! Were there any manufacturing defects in the engine to start with? Who knows! There are alot of factors to consider. I have done some wicked things to diesel engines before in regard to tuning (at the owners request), some lasted, some didn't, some really surprised me.

The reason I personally wouldn't go above the D setting is due to the turbo's specifications, that is the deciding factor for me, also having rebuilt many turbo's over the years pushing the turbo beyond its limit is of more concern than the rest of the engine. I would luv to put a 250HP spec turbo on one of these engine and turn up the wick some more, but alas at the moment it is my daily drive so can't at the moment.
  • 2011 i30 SX CRDi & 2012 i30 Premium 1.8 nu


Offline Indalsman

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Why havent I seen this thread before!!?? I have searched the internet for the factory settings for days and now I have found ALL and some more information about it!!

I've just got myself a used race Chip PRO box and did not get any paper. The box was screwed on before me and I did not know what the factory setting was so I tried to adjust myself after what one could see on Race Chips video clips.

The car was crap then, and then stood my box at 6-4 ....

From what I have read now it seems D-1 work well so I'll try again now and see how the car goes then.


Offline rickai

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Why havent I seen this thread before!!?? I have searched the internet for the factory settings for days and now I have found ALL and some more information about it!!

I've just got myself a used race Chip PRO box and did not get any paper. The box was screwed on before me and I did not know what the factory setting was so I tried to adjust myself after what one could see on Race Chips video clips.

The car was crap then, and then stood my box at 6-4 ....

From what I have read now it seems D-1 work well so I'll try again now and see how the car goes then.

B1 should be standard for i30s, you could send an email to racechip and ask, they have pretty good customer service. After having it for D1 & C1 for a while, i find B1 the smoothest of them all. The other ones use up bit more fuel and sometimes too responsive for my liking. It makes my car feel like one of those remote control cars.


Offline Indalsman

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I emailed the Race Chip and got the answer that it would be B-1 as the factory setting.

Have finished setting it in the recommended performance level 2 E-2 and is not really happy with the effect anyway.

I want more power at speeds above 90km / h (57mph). My last box gave more power than this so the engine can give more. Anyone know if you can squeeze more out of this box?

This is a video taken from my car with my other box (The box is now broken  :'( )

:link: Acc test Hyundai i30 1,6 crdi - YouTube


Offline Catman1

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Hi Indalsman,

I haven't been on the site for a while (been playing with the Ecoboost turbo in the new Ford Kuga).

If you haven't already try using D-3 or D-4 setting. The higher the number the longer the power lasts in the rpm range.
I found the engine liked the D setting better than E setting. E setting made mine feel more rough & raggered, not as smooth and no real extra gain over the D setting.
I think you will find the turbo specs are going to be the limiting factor on getting more out of the engine not the racechip box. From memory the turbo is rated at around 160hp (I may stand corrected), if you get the claimed 30% power increase from the box then with the U2 engine 94kw standard + 30% = 122kw (163hp) the turbo is close to its design limit.

You could also try using a K&N air filter this will also help. Good luck, let us know how you go.
  • 2011 i30 SX CRDi & 2012 i30 Premium 1.8 nu


Offline 001steve

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30%???? thats a huge difference, I honestly cant see where they got that figure from...
i used to have a capa kit on an xr6 turbo and the real world figure was like 2-3% maximum performance increase.... On the dyno with me driving both times the best increase in kws was like 3kws and i was willing it to be more as well, bet and lost$100 on it.
 
that chip was also changing the fuel map boost pressure and a few transmission tweaks...
bit like the peter brock polariser haha
  • 2010 fd i30 crdi 5 Spd Man.


Offline Catman1

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Yep, I am hearing you Steve, I don't ever really believe claimed figures either, just doing the calcs based on there claim. Never had the i30 on a dyno to be exact, but the chip did make a noticeable difference to the i30.
  • 2011 i30 SX CRDi & 2012 i30 Premium 1.8 nu


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