[Jarek]

HeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeHHhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa !!!!


I did it 

I've just constructed a test rig (470 Ohm (parallel to a tiny LED ) with a 1000 Ohm in series and a current blocking diode), connected the Positive wire to a cigarette lighter and the negative wire to the wire coming from ECU (wire which is supposed to give lighting signal) and that Works. The led shed its light once I hit the button for engaging cruise. I then connected the test rig to the other wire to light the SET button and drove over 40 Km/h and switched the button SET and guess what... ?... the light came on. That was a real relief to have everything working 

Now tomorrow I'll be finalising the setup and mounting the LEDs to the instrument cluster. I'll post a full review with pictures once it's done.

Cheers !

Batteoui used 470 ohm and 1 kohm. You may test it just by measuring resistance with multimeter on other LEDs (existing on PCB). Don't forget about diode.
I placed a link to picture with pin numbers in M-01C: 16 for SET and 17 for CRUISE.
One more info: probably there are no contatcs in empty slots in M-01C plug . I used terminals like these:
JWT connectors, 4 pin - 5set/bag
Generally they fit well to many small connectors.

[wolfmane]

No Joy.  I special ordered the pin sockets for the ECU and clockspring connectors from a local electrical supply company in order to make sure I was getting a good connection. Today I finally got around to installing them along with a new cable. I used an ethernet cable because it has more than enough individual conductors for this application, has high-quality wire and is slightly smaller than the generic 4-conductor cable I used before. I couldn't find a black one, but this one is blue which stands out less in the engine compartment. Anyway, when I got it all put together and took it out for a test drive it still won't engage. I don't have LEDs hooked up yet, so I had to be careful to make sure I only pressed the cruise power button once, and I tried pressing it, then the set button, then the power again, then the set button again etc. in order to make sure, but it never worked.

There are several possibilities still. I'm almost certain I used the right pins on the ECU. I checked, re-checked and re-checked again many times over, and the top and bottom rows both are marked as to the first and last pins, so if the rows of pins are all numbered in parallel then I definitely have the right pins.

On the other hand, the clockspring only has pins 7 and 12 marked, so I could only assume that pins 1 and 6 counted up the same direction. If that's not the case, then the pins are reversed from how I have them connected. Here's what I mean:

My assumption as to pin order:
 1  2  3   4  5   6
 7  8  9 10 11 12

vs.

  1  2   3  4  5  6
12 11 10  9  8  7

I guess the two remaining things I can try before giving up are to attach LEDs to help see if & when the cruise gets turned on and/or to just switch the pin order and see if that works. I just hate to go to the trouble of sourcing and hooking up LEDs and resistors if it's not going to work at all.

 

[Phil №❶]

CC won't engage unless the brake pedal has been depressed once since start up. In your rewiring, have you ensured that the logic for this is still correct and working 

[Jarek]

wolfmane, CC doesn't engage below 40 or 50 kph. Try other way: connect everything to buttons, and then disconnect wires from ECU, attach resistance meter to wires and try to check if proper resistance is between right wires, when ON/OFF button is pressed and then other buttons. This wil solve any mismatches on sockets/pins/wires/

[wolfmane]

CC won't engage unless the brake pedal has been depressed once since start up. In your rewiring, have you ensured that the logic for this is still correct and working 

I don't have any way of checking that. However, that condition is always met, since it's impossible to put the car in gear without pressing on the brake pedal.

[wolfmane]

wolfmane, CC doesn't engage below 40 or 50 kph. Try other way: connect everything to buttons, and then disconnect wires from ECU, attach resistance meter to wires and try to check if proper resistance is between right wires, when ON/OFF button is pressed and then other buttons. This wil solve any mismatches on sockets/pins/wires/

I've tested many times at this point, going well above 50 kph on the highway. It just doesn't work.

I'll try testing the resistances at the clockspring terminals when I get a chance. I think I've got a schematic of the buttons somewhere. Unfortunately I have other projects going at the moment which makes finding time for fiddly, time-consuming stuff like this difficult.

[kendit]

Hi,
first i want to say Hello All .

I also want to install CC to my I30, but i wondering if my ECU support such function, could someone help me with this, number my ECU:
0 281 015 865
1 037 398 489
82FD400ACVERI01U
39113-2A405

[Jarek]

kendit did it !!! I know !!!

[CraigB]

CC won't engage unless the brake pedal has been depressed once since start up. In your rewiring, have you ensured that the logic for this is still correct and working 

I don't have any way of checking that. However, that condition is always met, since it's impossible to put the car in gear without pressing on the brake pedal.

In my experience the car has always gone in gear with the clutch pedal...not the brake.

As Phil mentioned tapping the brake pedal once when the car is at speed should then allow it to be activated, mine wont activate below 70kph.

[Dazzler]

CC won't engage unless the brake pedal has been depressed once since start up. In your rewiring, have you ensured that the logic for this is still correct and working 

I don't have any way of checking that. However, that condition is always met, since it's impossible to put the car in gear without pressing on the brake pedal.

In my experience the car has always gone in gear with the clutch pedal...not the brake.

As Phil mentioned tapping the brake pedal once when the car is at speed should then allow it to be activated, mine wont activate below 70kph.

70 kph is high. Mine in the Calais can be activated for 40 kph school zones!

[CraigB]

mine wont activate below 70kph.

70 kph is high. Mine in the Calais can be activated for 40 kph school zones!

You might have something there Dazz, it's been a year or more since I last used CC so my memory may be failing me

I'll have to retest when I can get my car out of the driveway as there's a trailer load of road base in front of the carport at the moment for the artificial lawn.

[Dazzler]

mine wont activate below 70kph.

70 kph is high. Mine in the Calais can be activated for 40 kph school zones!

You might have something there Dazz, it's been a year or more since I last used CC so my memory may be failing me

I'll have to retest when I can get my car out of the driveway as there's a trailer load of road base in front of the carport at the moment for the artificial lawn.

Gee I hope you don't have to go anywhere in a hurry!

[CraigB]

I still have Kamini's car out in the carpark

[Dazzler]

I still have Kamini's car out in the carpark

 

[Wingerdave]

CC won't engage unless the brake pedal has been depressed once since start up. In your rewiring, have you ensured that the logic for this is still correct and working 

I don't have any way of checking that. However, that condition is always met, since it's impossible to put the car in gear without pressing on the brake pedal.

In my experience the car has always gone in gear with the clutch pedal...not the brake.

As Phil mentioned tapping the brake pedal once when the car is at speed should then allow it to be activated, mine wont activate below 70kph.

70 kph is high. Mine in the Calais can be activated for 40 kph school zones!

I don't know what the parameters are for the i30 but i do know that my 1989 Honda Goldwing has cruise control that can only be activated between 48kph and 130kph (30mph and 80mph), in 4th gear and Overdrive. Apparently that is governed by legislation and safety regulations in most countries.

I haven't tried my cruise control coz roads are so busy here there's no point (unless you do most of your driving between 2 and 5 in the morning)

[The Gonz]

A nice cheap red LED clamped to the right wire ends (or pushed into the right socket points) will do for checking CC state as an intermediate measure. No need to invest in more for that.

PS: I can get my CC to engage at 38kph according to my GPS.

[kroner]

Hi Guys.
I decided not to go ahead with the mod, as I don't have the time "and will" to do it at this stage.
I've listed in the for sale section a steering wheel that I bought from the wreckers that has both radio controls and cruise control.
if you're interested just go there and ping me..

[wolfmane]

1) It's hard to press a clutch pedal when you have an automatic transmission....

2) The auto trans cannot be shifted out of park unless you press the brake pedal.

3) I've had a clutch fail on a manual car and had to drive it without clutching for several hundred kilometers, through small towns and big, with traffic lights and stop signs. It is in fact possible to drive a manual without a clutch (at least prior to all the current idiotic interlocks, but that's not the issue in question). If you don't know how I did it, don't try to lecture me on, well, ANYTHING!

4) If your cruise doesn't engage below 70 kph then there's something wrong with it or it's been improperly set up. I've never seen one that wouldn't engage at 45 kph or lower.

I finally gave up (I don't have enough hands to reverse-engineer the clockspring pinout, and all indications are that my ECU - early 2009 unit - just doesn't have the programming) and had the "e-Cruise" installed by Autostrada in Brisbane. It works great, engages at 40 kph, and uses the OEM buttons I had already installed. They estimated 2 hours to do the job and had it done in 30 minutes. The only thing that's less than optimal is that they located the status LED in an empty switch panel below the dash dimmer wheel next to the ESC button and I have to lean way over and look far away from the road to see it around the steering wheel and my hand. That's a minor issue that I can resolve later, though. Overall I'm very happy with the install and the new cruise control.

It never ceases to amaze me how many people refuse to use cruise control or only use it rarely. Especially in a country with speed cameras and draconian cops everywhere. If you think you can do a better job of keeping an even speed than a cruise control, you're both seriously deluded and a danger to everyone else on the road by concentrating far to much on your speedometer and not nearly enough on the environment around you. I use it all the time, even in the city, and it frees my attention to be where it belongs. It's also far less fatiguing on long trips, and if you're worried about falling asleep with the cruise control engaged, you shouldn't be driving without it either.

[CraigB]

It never ceases to amaze me how many people refuse to use cruise control or only use it rarely. Especially in a country with speed cameras and draconian cops everywhere. If you think you can do a better job of keeping an even speed than a cruise control, you're both seriously deluded and a danger to everyone else on the road by concentrating far to much on your speedometer and not nearly enough on the environment around you. I use it all the time, even in the city, and it frees my attention to be where it belongs. It's also far less fatiguing on long trips, and if you're worried about falling asleep with the cruise control engaged, you shouldn't be driving without it either.

I very rarely ever use my cruise control yet have no problems whatsoever maintaining a constant speed, growing up with cars that never had that technology makes it fairly standard practice to be able to cope without modern features...tbh I think many of the modern features in cars dull the senses and put many people into a false sense of security.

[The Gonz]

I use it ALL the time EVERYWHERE from the very lowest available speed of 40KHP. I love it. Oh, and did I mention 4.1 L/100k?

[Phil №❶]

I use cc around town as well, if the traffic is flowing. I like to set 60 and let the Diesel Auto work out what to do after that. I don't have any trouble maintaining 60 manually, but I figure if the facility is there, why not use it. Of course on our freeway, it's a no brainer. 

[rustynutz]

I couldn't survive without "cruise" these days, especially since I broke my right ankle last year...
Something I wouldn't recommend but I do have to admit it really came into it's own when I was attempting to drive while wearing a moon boot...    

[ibrokeit]

Just a note - CC doesn't prevent the car picking up speed going down hill - I was advised of this a number of times when I just got the car.  After which I experimented to prove/dis-prove it for my i30cw.

I will also note, with my car (2010 Petrol), the CC appears to control the throttle by a cable connected to an actuator/servo/motor.

I assuming that i30s of similar vintage that have had CC added by just connecting wires to the ECU have electronic throttles.

[eye30]

Just a note - CC doesn't prevent the car picking up speed going down hill

Interesting observation but......

With my cc when i've used it on the motorway  when i am going up an incline i hear/feel the engine's revs increase to keep the speed at the set mph.

Likewise when going down an incline i feel the engine pulling back, again to keep at set mph.

Will check next time i'm on motorway to be sure....

[ibrokeit]

Likewise when going down an incline i feel the engine pulling back, again to keep at set mph.

Will check next time i'm on motorway to be sure....

I have noticed that too... it does do it to a point (e.g. engine braking) - however if the descent is steep enough the car will pick up speed.   The CC doesn't apply the actual brakes 

[Shambles]

... when i am going up an incline i hear/feel the engine's revs increase ...

Your clutch must be slipping then

[Phil №❶]

The brake switch is used to deactivate CC, so the car isn't going to apply the brakes automatically, is it.

[The Gonz]

 

It's not rocket science. CC is simply a feedback control loop, matching detected speed to throttle. Any apparent braking is simply a lack of throttle to keep at a set speed. Likewise, going uphill the speed will naturally decrease, which is when more throttle is applied.

Don't read any more into it.

[ibrokeit]

It's not rocket science. CC is simply a feedback control loop, matching detected speed to throttle. Any apparent braking is simply a lack of throttle to keep at a set speed. Likewise, going uphill the speed will naturally reduce speed, which is when more throttle is applied.

Don't read any more into it.

Exactly.  And in the case of a decline, up to a point, the lack of throttle works in combination with the gear ratio and engine compression to retard the effect of gravity acting on the mass of the car.

[The Gonz]