[Big Al]

Hi Folks, I know this is an old post but it touches on my query. My i30 failed to start one morning after running since I had it. The dealer pluged in his computer and found an error code "P1690 - Immobiliser to SMARTRA no response" Apart from this initial assessment, the dealer has been less than helpful as my i30 has lost it's warranty due to it being a Cat C rebuilt (insurance write off) which I repaired, and they have advised thay cant do any more work on the vehicle.
What I want to know is the following:
(i) if I replace the ECU, Smartra and ignition all taken from another vehicle, will they all communicate with each other without any reprogramming?
(ii) Would getting new keys reprogrammed solve the problem without having to change all the components?

Any replies would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[Phil №❶]

Welcome Big Al,

I doubt whether anyone has had to do this ever. My thoughts are that if the keys are from the same vehicle it might work. What worries me more is that the vin no's will be different and that could throw a spanner in the works.

[Dazzler]

Hi Big Al,

Not good! (I'm the master of understatement) Hope someone can help 

There has to be a work around that won't cost an arm and a leg.. Where is Funky?? 

Edit: Sorry forgot my manners (welcome to the Club)

[Doggie 1]

Welcome to the forum and here's hoping someone can help you.

[Shambles]

Hi Big Al, and welcome, albeit under (I would imagine) very annoying circumstances.

I'll split this thread away from that old one you posted in so we can get a better view of the issue

And my contribution to this is... did your diagnostic dealer try to clear the code? I have a bluetooth dongle and can see codes on my smartphone; some codes can also be cleared with this process, maybe (though unlikely) P1690 can be cleared, or at least it would be worth trying.

[Lorian]

Hi Folks, I know this is an old post but it touches on my query. My i30 failed to start one morning after running since I had it. The dealer pluged in his computer and found an error code "P1690 - Immobiliser to SMARTRA no response" Apart from this initial assessment, the dealer has been less than helpful as my i30 has lost it's warranty due to it being a Cat C rebuilt (insurance write off) which I repaired, and they have advised thay cant do any more work on the vehicle.
What I want to know is the following:
(i) if I replace the ECU, Smartra and ignition all taken from another vehicle, will they all communicate with each other without any reprogramming?
(ii) Would getting new keys reprogrammed solve the problem without having to change all the components?

Any replies would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

P1690 - Immobiliser to SMARTRA no response

SAMARTRA is the identity chip in the key. It is read by induction by the ignition system.

1) if you have a big bunch of keys separate the i30 key and test on its own
2) if you have a second key try that

If I wasn't aware of the cat C status I'd have said the most likely cause was the chip in they key failing. It has occurred to others but not often. In your position I'd be buying a new key from the dealer but even that is quite an expensive bet.

[Big Al]

Good morning Folks (or good evening for those down under)

Thanks for your warm welcome and willingness to help, its sure great to draw on one anothers experiences.
Im still learning how to use this forum so will try use quotes to respond to some of the responses.

Big Al

[Big Al]

Welcome Big Al,

I doubt whether anyone has had to do this ever. My thoughts are that if the keys are from the same vehicle it might work. What worries me more is that the vin no's will be different and that could throw a spanner in the works.

Hi Phil,
I have the ECU, SMARTRA box (the one behind the radio), ignition and key from a second car which we used for spares in the rebuild, and I am wondering is it just a case of try them out and see or is there a risk of doing harm?

Big Al

[Phil №❶]

Sorry, I'm not qualified to answer that. Even though the dealer has been less than helpful, you would be best advised to ask them first. 

[Big Al]

Hi Big Al, and welcome, albeit under (I would imagine) very annoying circumstances.

I'll split this thread away from that old one you posted in so we can get a better view of the issue

And my contribution to this is... did your diagnostic dealer try to clear the code? I have a bluetooth dongle and can see codes on my smartphone; some codes can also be cleared with this process, maybe (though unlikely) P1690 can be cleared, or at least it would be worth trying.

Hi Shambles,
Basically a friend who rebuilds cars knew the owners son at the local Hyundai garage and he plugged the computer in and tried to clear the code. They were able to start the car using the computer but if not restarted in seconds it wouldn't start again. I took the car to another garage (not Hyundai agent) but he didn't have aftermarket software to access the ecu. He could access it via the "EOBD" route and said the ecu was powering up but that was all he could see. I then decided to ask the dealer to officially book the vehicle in and do a full diagnostic but he declined to do it because of its CAT C status for "legal reasons" but I am not sure what he meant by that.

So basically I am unlikely to get his help anymore which I think is a poor advert for the dealership!!

[Big Al]

P1690 - Immobiliser to SMARTRA no response

SAMARTRA is the identity chip in the key. It is read by induction by the ignition system.

1) if you have a big bunch of keys separate the i30 key and test on its own
2) if you have a second key try that

If I wasn't aware of the cat C status I'd have said the most likely cause was the chip in they key failing. It has occurred to others but not often. In your position I'd be buying a new key from the dealer but even that is quite an expensive bet.

Hi Lorian,

No other keys on the bunch and I don't have a second key.

The damage on the car was mainly panel damage, although the airbags did go off and we have fitted the airbags from the second car. I got the car in July and it was running when it arrived, It started regularly whilst being repaired and was driven an hour to the paint shop and back, and I used it almost daily for about a week after it got back. We then replaced the cracked windscreen and 4 days later after being used daily it just wouldn't restart one morning.

I would love to try getting new keys but its an expensive exercise when we not even sure if it will work. I may well give it a try once I have considered all my options.

Cheers
Big Al

[Dazzler]

We will try to help you anyway (as much as we can) 

You can get cheaper keys off the internet but they need to be programmed by a person with the right equipment 

[Lorian]

I pulled the code on HMAservice and it tends to indicate a wiring harness fault or a faulty SMARTRA control unit. Possible causes:

•  Open Circuit in signal harness
•  Short Circuit in signal harness
•  Faulty SMARTRA

the location of the unit, including a picture and a wiring diagram ar on

https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/

Register for an account
when in, the user interface is poor, you might need to play around to get used to it.
You need to select "DTC" to get to the diagnsotic codes
select your code P1690
select "elantra touring (FD)" as the car - this is a USA site - this is basically a 2L petrol i30.
Then select G2.0 MPI> Imobilizer > Imobilizer

Plenty to read. Looks like checking the wiring harness plugs and wires is first on your list......

[Big Al]

Thanks Lorian,

That's really good information as given that we had the whole dash out there could be a chance that we haven't clipped a connector in properly which has worked its way loose and is now not making contact. looks like checking the wiring is first on the list 

Big Al

[Phil №❶]

Big Al, you didn't mention that little piece of info, I would say it's a connector too. 

[Big Al]

Happy New Year folks....... well when it comes to my i30 it not a very happy one.  I spent a bit of time under the dash of my car over the christmas break checking the wiring and connectors and sadly I cannot find any loose connections, damaged wiring or short circuits (only visual inspection)   I didnt remove the dashboard just all the various panels which can be removed. I unpluggesd every connector I could find and connected it back in again to ensure it clicked in place and none seemed to be loose and there was no signs of an arc'ing contact. So sadly my i30 remains DEAD on my drive.

I am beginning to despair  as my last step is to contact another Hyundai dealer (2 hours away) who will hopefully be willing to help and if they cant help then I may be forced to sell the car to someone with an interest in electronics or simply undo all the hardwork I have done and break the car for parts 

I shall keep you posted on what happens

[Phil №❶]

And Happy New Year to you, if it's possible.

Having visually checked the connections these are your options in order of what I would do.

The fault code says no communication with SMARTRA.

I would be highly suspicious of the key chip, but if you have 2 keys and the don't work, then it's not likely to be the keys.

There are of course several possibilities, but worth considering is the fact that the car DID operate for you. Given the history of the vehicle, you could have a torn / frayed or intermittent connection somewhere in the vehicle. You would need to check each connection with a multimeter to determine continuity.

I think you need a Hy dealer's help with this one and "we can't work on this vehicle is absolute trash." Replace can't with won't.
If you're prepared to pay for repairs, they should be only too willing to get involved. If they insist they can't / won't,  then a reputable auto electrician is an option, this will cost of course.

[Dazzler]

Sorry to hear that .. a very sad state of affairs  Pity none of our tech savvy owners live close enough to take a look 

[Big Al]

Today was a HAPPY Day !!!  My i30 is alive again..... although she is not fully repaired yet.

I managed to get her booked in at the dealership 2 hours away and she went in today. They found many error codes and basically they made the decision to "put her to sleep" then wake her up again and reprogramme all the code back in. As a result she is alive but is still suffering from the inability to exceed 3000rmp. The dealership have been more than helpful and extremely fair only charging me £200.  They have said whilst they could continue looking to resolve the problem they could end up spending a lot of time and money without results and have suggested I find someone to help me check and replace various items on a trial and error basis. Basically the electronics are all fine and its now just down to an isolated problem which we need to find. Good news is i still have all the wiring looms and parts from the spare car.

The dealership have advised the car is fine to drive, it will just be like a non turbo diesel so at leat we have transport while we look for the solution.

I will be fetching her tomorrow and they are going to give me full details of their diagnosis and a list of items and circuits to test and I will post these for some feedback and advise from you all.

Thanks for all the advise and support and lets hope we are a BIG step closer to a healthy car. 

[Shambles]

3000rpm eh?

Fuel Filter.

[Dazzler]

 

Think this thread might be of help (but there are others too)

https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=2694.msg28714#msg28714