April 26, 2021, 18:57:33 by boonergooner | Views: 455 | Comments: 18
Hello all, need some help! My 2009 i30 has stood for a few months, a few weeks ago I discovered the battery was dead so I took it off the charge it up, I left it off the car for a few weeks and when I put it back on my stereo will now not work at all, nothing on screen. I have checked the fuse marked audio and clock as the handbook appears to say it's connected to the audio? you can see from the pictures the audio fuse inside a yellow clip that I now know I should have pulled out when parking the car up! The audio fuse looked intact but I changed it for another 15a fuse that I knew was working but this did not change anything. Can anyone give me any advice on whether I need to do something with the ignition key or if there's an intern...
April 26, 2021, 01:09:49 by luko | Views: 273 | Comments: 6
Hi there, I recently changed the power steering coupling on my 2011 i30cw CRDI SX wagon. The clunking stopped and it works perfectly. It sounds like it's coming from the electric motor, and it sounds louder when I turn the wheel fast. The sound is unnoticeable on normal driving. You can only here it when you turn the wheel fast and it's almost a clicking whir sound. Could I have done the motor bolts up too tightly? It sounds to me like it's coming from the motor and maybe the bearing of the motor is stressed due to new coupling and/or me doing it too tight. When I first got the car it had this sound but wasn't as noticeable; you really had to turn the wheel fast to hear it. Any ideas?
April 03, 2021, 20:19:20 by Endeavor | Views: 750 | Comments: 5
Hi guys, Anyone had this issue before? Changing tires to summers... tire stud broke off. Does anyone know the stud size ( front, 2012 FD 2.0 petrol) or part number and if i need to remove the hub to replace it? Although car has only 60 K wouldnut be easier to replace the entire hub assembly ( i think it comes with studs) rather than remove and try to replace one of the studs. Thank you very much.
March 28, 2021, 04:25:35 by BrendanP | Views: 679 | Comments: 11
I've just replaced the case on the 2nd fob of my partners 2011 FD. As you can see from the photos, the rubber over the buttons starts to break up, and eventually the blade holder splits at which point it becomes unusable. The replacement kit cost £7-99 and includes a new battery. It is an improvement over the 1st kit I used as the two halves of the case are secured with a screw and there is a Hyundai badge to stick over the screw head. With the 1st kit, the twisting force when turning the key caused the case halves to separate so I had to glue them together. I'm hoping the screw will prevent that.
The new kit comes with a blank blade, but as the objective was to save money I re-used the old key blade. First I had to remove the ne...
March 08, 2021, 04:36:10 by AlanHo | Views: 1172 | Comments: 4
The government have issued an update to MOT testers. (Annual car inspections for vehicles 3 or more years old)
As of 1 January 2021, section 4.1.4 of the MOT Inspection manual reads: “Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.” '
Before this, as long as the headlights worked and were aimed properly plus they had the correct beam pattern, a car would pass its MOT for that section. Which meant that you could go on to the internet, find a seller overjoyed to take your cash while promising an ‘LED upgrade’ to your existing bulbs and voila! Super-bright bu...
March 07, 2021, 13:41:37 by Funkyfin2000 | Views: 2182 | Comments: 26
Hi All,
New to the forum - thanks for having me and hope someone can help with a pretty serious issue. The car is a 2014 i30 CRDI 1.6ltr.
The issue was intermittent with the car sometimes not starting - and then the problem has got worse, with the car not starting at all now from the key/ignition.
I've done a You Tube video to help you see the issue - but essentially, all the electrics and car work fine, but when you go to try and crank the engine nothing happens. You get clicking from the fuses/solenoid, but nothing happens at all.
When you push the key to the cranking position the radio and main beam lights go off as well but come back on when the key returns to normal position.
February 26, 2021, 07:35:54 by SafetyChes | Views: 1846 | Comments: 23
Hi all.
I have an i30 diesel auto. after discovering a bit of a noise. I inspected the drive belt and found it to be slightly loose and flapping about when idling. When I apply revs the noise stops and the belt runs through the pulleys smoothly.
I’ve replaced the belt but there is still the same issue. I think it’s an issue with the tensioner pulley so I’ve deceived to remove inspect and replace if required. The issue is, I can’t get the tensioner pulley off. Removed the bottom left bolt no problem. the top right bolt will be come out at there is another pulley in the way.
February 22, 2021, 08:00:27 by sunsetred | Views: 1399 | Comments: 8
Hi All, I ordered a standard wagon/estate i30 with 1.5 T-GDI MHEV engine and i-MT manual transmission. This engine has relatively high power, 160 hp, and this is the same engine that comes with the 2020-2021 top N-line models. Mine is not an N-line. But I tried one with the same engine and I can tell that the power steering and the suspension are slightly better on the N-line compared to the standard trim level. According to the official communications the N-line only gets different setting, not different components. My question is, would it be possible somehow to modify the power steering and suspension settings on a standard car to make it similar to the N-line? I asked my Hyundai retailer, they said that a suspension modification would c...
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