i30 Owners Club

Gear shift problem

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline cocosamba

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 11

    • ro Romania
      Bucharest
Hello everybody!

I have been dealing with a 1st gear "resistance" or hard engaging for some time.

I will tell you the succesion of events in order to have the complete picture:

-the clutch was changed in 2017 by the previous owner (i have the bill that states the clutch kit was replaced)
- I changed the damper and flushed the clutch about a month ago (it seemed to be a little better)
- I didn't change the master or slave cylinder (no leaks and they seem to move and operate correct)
- after the damper change the clutch fork seems to move a little bit more and the gears seemed to engage better but not perfect
- I changed the gearbox oil - little or no improvements
- the gearbox oil was changed by a mechanic and when I explained him the symptoms he told me that it may be the gear linkage control (I guess that is the correct name) meaning that something is wrong with the shifting cables
- he sprayed some oil/grease on the gearbox end of the cables, where the mitsubishi bushings and the selector and engagement mechanism are and to be honest that was the biggest improvement so far (the gears engage almost perfect) but there are still moments when engaging 1st gear is a little bit hard and I hit that wall
- I got the ideea that if he sprayed grease there and it was a big improvement something must be wrong with the bushings so I changed the bushings
- with the engine stopped it engages perfectly once you depress the clutch 1 time and the gears fin their way. Afterwards it perfectly enters all gears.
- the problem seems to be more present when the engine is on
- I changed all the interior mechanism from the gear shifter (the plastic selector, plastic knuclke, bolt, spring and rubber parts. Small improvement.
-initially, before all the changed parts above, when it didn't want to go into 1st I had to start all over again and depress the clutch for the second time and then it engaged, but it didn't seem as a bad clutch engagement/disengagement
-it seemed more like it didn't found it's exact spot where to engage and something is misplaced and opposing the engagement

Can you please help me with the part number for the following parts (scheme attached)?


- 43870B on scheme - code 4387032001 (I didn't find the part number for diesel, the scheme only has parts for petrol engines) - I need 1 pcs
- 43872 on scheme - code 4387232000 sau 4387232010 (I don't know with one of them fits) - I need 2 pcs
- 1461EA on scheme - code 1461108003 - I need 2 pcs.

My car is a 2010 Hyundai I30, czech made, 1.6 crdi, U2 engine, 85 kw, 6 gear manual transmission, VIN: TMADB51SAAJ054175

Parts scheme


This is the mechanism present on my car. The black metal selector (in wich the selector cable comes from the gear shifer)goes behind the aluminiul gearbox support).


This is the mechanism present on petrol cars. The black metal selector (in wich the selector cable comes from the gear shifer)goes in front of the aluminiul gearbox support).


Please help!
« Last Edit: November 02, 2020, 18:43:22 by cocosamba »
  • i30 2010 fd 1.6 crdi 85kw


Offline Lorian

  • V.I.P
  • *
    • Posts: 3,459

    • gb United Kingdom
      Midlands

  • Midlands, UK N-Line T-GDi
6 speed gearbox presumably?

what oil did you use in the gearbox?

Did you bleed the slave cylinder itself?

how high from the floor is the bit point of the clutch now?


Offline cocosamba

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 11

    • ro Romania
      Bucharest
Hello,

Yes sir. 6 speed manual gearbox.

I used 2L of Castrol syntrax 75W90.

I bleed the clutch slave cylinder properly.

The clutch bit point is about half the travel. It is absolutely normal. It dosen't bite too early or too late. The car can go on steep hills, no problem when starting from a steep hill etc.
  • i30 2010 fd 1.6 crdi 85kw


Offline Lorian

  • V.I.P
  • *
    • Posts: 3,459

    • gb United Kingdom
      Midlands

  • Midlands, UK N-Line T-GDi
Just first gear, no problems with second?


Offline cocosamba

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 11

    • ro Romania
      Bucharest
99% 1st gear problem. In the beginning, before changing the above described parts, it had moments when it didi't want to engage 1st. You move the shifter to the left (LHD) to select and then forward to engage. It would move left but not forward. I had to push the clutch 2 times or push it one time and try and if it didn't work I got the shifter back to neutral position and then left and forward again and usually it would work.

2nd gear engages ok but rarely I feel something at the middle when moving the shifter left and backwards (just like I hit a sppeed bump with the shifter or some sort of "obstacle" and I hear a sound like something engages with effort).
  • i30 2010 fd 1.6 crdi 85kw


Offline DaveBern

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 14

    • au Australia
      Sydney, Australia
The car has had the clutch changed, so you have no idea how the previous owner treated it.  If there has been lots of gear grinding or crunching (it can happen, especially if the clutch bite point is really low like mine was) then the tips of the drive dogs on the synchronizers in the gearbox  can be worn off or rounded.  Without the point - to - point contact between the synchronizer and the gear, the gears can refuse to engage as you have two flatish surfaces facing each other instead of two pointed surfaces.  This is especially true when the gears are still, like when stopped and putting it into first.  If you know how a gearbox works you'll know what I'm talking about (hard to explain in words).
I'm just saying that the problem could be inside the gearbox, and not an easy fix.
  • GD manual diesel wagon


Unread Posts

 


SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal