[leodb]

Hi all,

As the title suggests I’m having an odd issue with my petrol i30 that has what seems to be a shuddering issue a similar feeling to when you have warped brake discs, it happens when the car is at 1500-2500RPM and I’m not sure if it’s only at 80km/h or if it’s just more frequent and noticeable given that it’s a common speed, I’ve put it into tiptronic or whatever it’s called and identified it happens in almost all gears.

It done 120,000km I’ve done an oil change and filter change and haven’t noticed any difference, I’ve also ordered spark plugs and will be doing those this week but am not too confident that is the issue, there just doesn’t seem to be a lot of info out there mainly diesel threads, the other thing I was thinking was the fuel filter, my reason behind that was because it seems exacerbated when using a lower quality fuel like E10 or standard unleaded, however it’s worth noticing I don’t lose a significant amount of power and the revs don’t blip or anything out of the ordinary, it literally feels like the brakes are pumping on and off quickly for a few seconds.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated happy to provide some more details of required just not sure what else it could be and would rather understand it more before taking it to a mechanic and paying for diagnostic labour.

On that note I also ran and OBDII deep scan and 0 errors came up.

Thanks in advance.

[tw2005]

Hyundai i30 Diesel CRDi

almost all gears- which gears exactly and speed? Light throttle ? Under load?

I'm just wondering if it's more noticeable around 80 and no power loss could it be a transmission issue like the torque converter clutch lockup?

You may have no choice but to get some checks done or a professional opinion

[Dazzler]

@leodb89 I think your signature has confused @tw2005 (Gerard, it's a petrol)

Will the noise/vibration show up in a video?

As you say, it's an issue that more commonly occurs with the diesel which may have further confused our guru...

[nzenigma]

As you say, ...which may have further confused our guru...

  Nup, got it first time. 

Mate, I would hold off until you put the new plugs in, which would be my first port of call. Also some injector cleaner.

Stay in touch . 

[leodb]

Hyundai i30 Diesel CRDi

almost all gears- which gears exactly and speed? Light throttle ? Under load?

I'm just wondering if it's more noticeable around 80 and no power loss could it be a transmission issue like the torque converter clutch lockup?

You may have no choice but to get some checks done or a professional opinion

Thanks for your reply, I’m hoping it’s not transmission related but wondering if I’ve ruled that out by testing manually in individual gears (mainly 4-6), also on this I’m not too sure what’s meant by ‘under load’ my assumption is that means whilst putting the foot down a bit, and usually this is what I do to snap it out of the shuddering either that or releasing my foot off the accelerator completely, however if under load is any form of acceleration then yes as mentioned it happens within the RPMs mentioned and rarely outside of those.

@leodb89 I think your signature has confused @tw2005 (Gerard, it's a petrol)

Will the noise/vibration show up in a video?

As you say, it's an issue that more commonly occurs with the diesel which may have further confused our guru...

Thanks for your response, It’s very hard to film or anything like that you just feel it happen, as mentioned it’s like someone applying the brakes on and off quickly, although could also feel like if the car was struggling for fuel, however I would assume if this were the case I’d hear something alongside the feeling and also see maybe some excess burn off? I’m not too car savvy so apologies if my terms or descriptions are off.

As you say, ...which may have further confused our guru...

  Nup, got it first time. 

Mate, I would hold off until you put the new plugs in, which would be my first port of call. Also some injector cleaner.

Stay in touch . 

Thanks for your response, I’ll do that and report back I’m just not confident it is just that, however hoping for it to be. At 120,000km is there anything major I should be doing? I’ve serviced with Hyundai until 105,000km as it was in warranty but trying to do the services myself to better understand cars and reduce unnecessary costs.

Apologies for the profile I was intending to buy the diesel from the start but never found one in my price range, might look at selling this for one after figuring out what the issue is and repairing it.

[tw2005]

When you put your foot down a bit to make it go away, does  it  remain in the same gear and if it does, does the engine RPM go up markedly like there's a bit of slip in the transmission but not a great deal of acceleration?

I'd expect the gearbox to perfect still with those ks, and await the plug exchange.  Just that I've had a vehicle once feel like it had a misfire at hwy speeds and it was a transmission torque converter issue on lockup.

[leodb]

I think I understand what you mean but no it doesn’t feel like that it’s very responsive and not form or slippage or anything like that.

[nzenigma]

The ks are still low, so shouldn't be a factor. Is this an FD 2.0L or GD model. The plates on the passenger door pillars will inform you.

It would be good if you could change the description, will save further confusion if others give input.

E10 is not particularly low quality, it is actually higher octane than standard 91 unleaded.

Under load means you are making the engine work harder than in normal driving, eg accelerating when going up a hill.

[leodb]

Hey I’m not sure what I need to change it to I’ve put 2013 (GD) to cover that and in the petrol sub-forum. Let me know and I’ll update it.

It’s a 1.8L i30 Premium MY14.

I was implying that E10 and 91 seems to bring it on more so than 95 and 98.

It can happen at any time, load doesn’t seem to be the main factor.

[leodb]

It would be good if you could change the description, will save further confusion if others give input.

I think I see what you mean, I don’t know how to change that can’t see anything in the forum profile settings.

EDIT: found it

[leodb]

As you say, ...which may have further confused our guru...

  Nup, got it first time. 

Mate, I would hold off until you put the new plugs in, which would be my first port of call. Also some injector cleaner.

Stay in touch . 

I will report back once i change the plugs and give the car a week or so to try replicate the issue.

What are your thoughts on the fuel filter? Too soon? Better to leave that until seeing the outcome of the spark plugs?

[nzenigma]

As you say, ...which may have further confused our guru...

  Nup, got it first time. 

Mate, I would hold off until you put the new plugs in, which would be my first port of call. Also some injector cleaner.

Stay in touch . 

I will report back once i change the plugs and give the car a week or so to try replicate the issue.

What are your thoughts on the fuel filter? Too soon? Better to leave that until seeing the outcome of the spark plugs?

Filter maybe but down my list because of advantages with Octane. The all flow the same.

Also by load, spark plugs can run perfectly at idle, but then try to drive off and the dud one will fail.

Thanks for changing   no timing belt worries with this model.

[leodb]

Final question until I do the work, do you recommend a particular injector cleaner?

[tw2005]

I think I understand what you mean but no it doesn’t feel like that it’s very responsive and not form or slippage or anything like that.

ok. So then I'm not on the right path for what I was thinking may be the cause.

[leodb]

I think I understand what you mean but no it doesn’t feel like that it’s very responsive and not form or slippage or anything like that.

ok. So then I'm not on the right path for what I was thinking may be the cause.

All good thanks for your input anyway it may come in handy in future, or if none of the other suggestions work.

Ive seen fuel injector cleaner and valve cleaner, some added to the fuel and some sprayed directly to the MAF intake, am i best of doing both or are they theoretically doing the same thing just at different areas of the car?

[nzenigma]

I think I understand what you mean but no it doesn’t feel like that it’s very responsive and not form or slippage or anything like that.

ok. So then I'm not on the right path for what I was thinking may be the cause.

All good thanks for your input anyway it may come in handy in future, or if none of the other suggestions work.

Ive seen fuel injector cleaner and valve cleaner, some added to the fuel and some sprayed directly to the MAF intake, am i best of doing both or are they theoretically doing the same thing just at different areas of the car?

One of the Nulon or Winns injector cleaners, from the Superchap. Goes into fuel.
MAF cleaner is a spray. Cleaning MAF would usually be done during service. The Chap has it too. Hadnt considered it actually, but would defiantly be worth checking and while there have a look at air cleaner condition. Dirty Filter will cause high fuel consumption rather than a Rev specific fault.

[leodb]

I think I understand what you mean but no it doesn’t feel like that it’s very responsive and not form or slippage or anything like that.

ok. So then I'm not on the right path for what I was thinking may be the cause.

All good thanks for your input anyway it may come in handy in future, or if none of the other suggestions work.

Ive seen fuel injector cleaner and valve cleaner, some added to the fuel and some sprayed directly to the MAF intake, am i best of doing both or are they theoretically doing the same thing just at different areas of the car?

One of the Nulon or Winns injector cleaners, from the Superchap. Goes into fuel.
MAF cleaner is a spray. Cleaning MAF would usually be done during service. The Chap has it too. Hadnt considered it actually, but would defiantly be worth checking and while there have a look at air cleaner condition. Dirty Filter will cause high fuel consumption rather than a Rev specific fault.

Hi, just wanted to write back to say things have improved a lot, Thursday night I started the car and it sounded really bad and was running really rough/choking for 60 seconds or so, I didn’t have the spark plugs or fuel cleaner in yet from super cheap so I got Nulon from a local petrol station and instantly the car was a lot smoother, tonight I changed the spark plugs not sure how to tell how bad the existing ones are but they’re attached, I’ll do the MAF next but I think it’s safe to say this one has been fixed.

Thanks so much for the direction saved me a lot of money.

iCloud

The photos won’t attach I assume they’re too large to upload.

[nzenigma]

Great result. Thanks for coming back to us.
The colour of your plugs gives the impression that you have been running very lean. This fits with lack of fuel via the injectors. 

[leodb]

Great result. Thanks for coming back to us.
The colour of your plugs gives the impression that you have been running very lean. This fits with lack of fuel via the injectors. 

Thanks for that, is it something I need to check/monitor? If so, does that mean checking the plugs after X amount of time/km have passed?

[nzenigma]

Great result. Thanks for coming back to us.
The colour of your plugs gives the impression that you have been running very lean. This fits with lack of fuel via the injectors. 

Thanks for that, is it something I need to check/monitor? If so, does that mean checking the plugs after X amount of time/km have passed?

Its more a matter of occasionally cleaning the fuel and air system and sensors.  Reasonable to change those old spark plugs, ( dont know how old the are )  but they are probably still ok and would just change colour with a better fuel to air ratio.