[BrendanP]

Has anyone tried this with a GD 1.6 CRDi?

I bought a cheap draining pump with a 6mm diameter hose that I assume you push down the dipstick tube until it reaches the bottom of the sump. However, the dipstick tube becomes much narrower about half way down. The dipstick is 5mm wide flat strip, and when it's half way down you can't rotate it any more, which suggests the tube narrows down to a thin slot that only the dipstick will get through. I wouldn't like to force the tube  down it in case anything breaks off and ends up in the oil.

[sundiz]

Is It pump with actual motor (electric), or is it a vacuum pump with a large reservoir?

I've never had fit issues in car with a vacuum pump. I just have had to use the thingest pipe in the end of the vacuum to get it fitted in to the dipstick hole. Only time when it has not fitted in, was when I changed the oil to old lawnmover. Fortunately the dipstick pipe came easily off by just pulling. After that the vacuum pipe fitted into the oil pan. Do not try to remove dipstick from your car.

I have 2 different models like this and they have worked with great success. Few of my friends like to borrow one when they have some oil to change. Worked with many cars and models. Haven't tried it yet with GD as it is still under warranty. And it's a petrol...

Imupumppu - Biltema.fi

[BrendanP]

It's an electric pump. I did once use a friends Sealey extraction pump with a large round tank, but I found it took a long time and the inside of the tank was so dirty with old oil that it was hard to tell if anything was coming out.

The hose on that was like the outer tube of a bicycle brake cable, made from tightly coiled steel wire with a thin layer of plastic. When I tried to pull it out of the engine it became stuck and I had to tug it quite hard to pull it out. There was a tear in the plastic coating and my friend then complained it made it useless because air would leak in through the tear. I repaired it with a sleeve of heatshrink tubing.

I have also bought a 6mm diameter aluminium tube which I was going to attach to the plastic tube and push down the dipstick tube. Then I would know if it is touching the bottom of the sump pan. When I tried it today I realised that it is too large to fit down the tube.

It would be interesting to know if you can get the hose right down into the sump on your GD

[BrendanP]

Doh!!

I just realised what an idiot I am. The dipstick tube has a bend, so obviously I can't push a straight hose around the bend. I can easily push the flexible plastic tube down all the way into the sump, although I cannot tell where the end of the tube is. If it bends back upwards then it will not drain down to the very bottom of the sump.

[sundiz]

The pipes/hoses on my two vacuum pumps are quite hard plastic. They will bend, but they are not like rubber hoses. They are so stiff that they will go down the dipstick pipe and stop when they hit the oil pan. I usually lift it couple of centimeters up from the bottom as the oil comes up so much faster when the tip is not touching the bottom of the oil pan. After it starts to such air, I pump more vacuum and push it to the bottom to get everything out.

Most important thing is to change the oil with warm engine if pumps/vacuum is used. Hot oil comes out so much better. The pipes are so small that the viscocity of the oil slows it down.

One thing that people often talk is that suction method is not as effective as draining from the pan. Often they say that sludge is being left to the bottom of the pan if you only suck the oil out. I do not know which way is better. Suction is just so much easier and faster that I prefer it. If slugge forms in your oil, shouldn't it be catched by the oil filter? Or if sludge forms excessively, shouldn't you be changing your oil more frequently, or use better quality oil? Previous car I had, I changed the oil with vacuum pump for 100tkm. Never had an oil/lubrication based issue. Now with i30 I've used vacuum pump for 150tkm and never had oil based issues. I must admit that I change oil 2 times a year, every 10tkm. With vacuum I get 5 litres out of the i30 engine. Same amount that many members have reported with regular method oil change.

[asathorny]

I recall some time ago that there was a lengthy discussion on this subject which I followed with interest as I was contemplating doing the same thing for intermediate oil changes.  It must be OK at some level as boat owners have no choice really, other than lift the engine out for every oil change.  On balance I would always prefer to run the engine till it is hot then drop the sump plug and leave it draining for a good while.  My two cents.

[Covi30]

I recall some time ago that there was a lengthy discussion on this subject which I followed with interest as I was contemplating doing the same thing for intermediate oil changes.  It must be OK at some level as boat owners have no choice really, other than lift the engine out for every oil change.  On balance I would always prefer to run the engine till it is hot then drop the sump plug and leave it draining for a good while.  My two cents.

first person with any common sense  all the bs above explains why we warm the motor to thin the oil and why there is a sump plug with a magnet so all sluge and metal is quickly removed.

[Shambles]

... all the bs above

A totally unwarranted remark.

[Dazzler]

I recall some time ago that there was a lengthy discussion on this subject which I followed with interest as I was contemplating doing the same thing for intermediate oil changes.  It must be OK at some level as boat owners have no choice really, other than lift the engine out for every oil change.  On balance I would always prefer to run the engine till it is hot then drop the sump plug and leave it draining for a good while.  My two cents.

first person with any common sense  all the bs above explains why we warm the motor to thin the oil and why there is a sump plug with a magnet so all sluge and metal is quickly removed.

@Covi30

This is your first and final warning. Another post like that and you will be permanently banned. If that is a problem for you, just let me know and I'll delete your account now. 

[Covi30]

for me Same as asathorny said :

I recall some time ago that there was a lengthy discussion on this subject which I followed with interest ......  On balance I would always prefer to run the engine till it is hot then drop the sump plug and leave it draining for a good while.  My two cents.

its like melborne cup, every year someone picks up the same dodgy thort bubble and a bunch of little guys chase it round the same circit. an experienced mechanic gave good reasons why this one is worthless

[sundiz]

If a pump is used, it should be checked that it works with the car you service. Some, especially older cars might not have the dipstick in the lowest part of the pan. Some cars are desinged to be changed with a pump and they use it in the official service. Seen cars with a plastic oil pan and drain plug. There wasn't even a magnet in the drain plug 

One postive thing with pump is that with 1.6crdi i30 diesel there is a about 1-1,5dl oil left in the oil filter housing. Easy to suck out when the filter is out.

[BrendanP]

The main reason for wanting to try an electric pump is to remove the bulk of the oil from the sump and pump it straight into an empty oil can. Out of sheer curiosity I would still get underneath and undo the sump plug to see how much dirty oil the pump doesn't suck out. If it's just half a litre or so it's a lot easier than having 5 litre of hot dirty oil gushing out. I have a draining pan but there's always some oil that misses the edge, or a gust of wind that blows the stream of oil away from the pan and onto the ground. A pump can also suck up the oil from the bottom of the oil filter housing.

On the FD diesel there was a cut-out in the plastic undertray so that you could drain the oil without having to remove it. Shame they don't have it in the GD undertray.

[sundiz]

These are the oil change amounts for FD 1,6crdi, from factory service manual:
5,7 litres to brand new dry engine.
5,3 litres to oil pan & filter drain.
4,8 litres to oil pan (no filter change).

Based on the factory information, there is still about 4 dl of oil left, even if drained from oil pan. Interesting.

[BrendanP]

Perhaps there are areas within the engine where the oil will gather and won't drain down to the sump under gravity. I'm not sure why changing the filter makes much difference, but who would want to change the oil but leave the old filter?

I always find that 5 litre will take the oil level to the F mark on the dipstick.

[sundiz]

I always find that 5 litre will take the oil level to the F mark on the dipstick.

Same here. 5 litres is the sweetspot.

[Covi30]

The main reason for wanting to try an electric pump is to remove the bulk of the oil from the sump and pump it straight into an empty oil can. Out of sheer curiosity I would still get underneath and undo the sump plug to see how much dirty oil the pump doesn't suck out. If it's just half a litre or so it's a lot easier than having 5 litre of hot dirty oil gushing out.

for the home handy bloke, thats an option i can live with. but the rush of warm 5l wil clean out the sump better. a good mechanic is  like a doctor while the car is up on the hoist he gives the rest of it a vizual checkup.
if you want to kill a Theta 11 motor with sludge use the crappy pump. if you want to find sign of early bearing failure in the i30 use a pan and check the bottom for bronze flakes.

[BrendanP]

There's a lot of jobs that would be easier if I could lift the car up and get underneath, but sadly, my budget doesn't extend to a car lift!

I do have a snake camera, I'll try poking that through the drain hole next time I change the oil and see how much sludge has built up in the pan.