[wh0-z3]

Long time since any post but, it's with mixed news.

  I'll keep it short as I can(for now) the bad since last post;

   *  Gearbox Leak

   *  Clutch & Flywheel (Shiny and thinner than plastic plates) 

   *  Bent Rear Bar

   *  Timing Belt Fail
 
   *  Injector Fail

   The good;

   *  HD Organic Clutch & Matched Lightweight Flywheel   

   *  Straight Rear Bar

   *  New Timing Belt
 
   *  New Injectors
   
   *  RAM Stubb Intake
 
   * 3" Hi-Flow Muffler
  -------------------------------------------
  In fitting, fab & tune;
  --------------------------------------------
   * Vortech Supercharger (centrifugal)
   
   * DT Charged Intercooler

   * Braided-Line Oil Cooler

   * ECU Flash - Or Crunched to use the piggy back (from my '89 MX-6 which sits with a turbo leak)
 --------------------------------------------
 On the way still;
 -------------------------------------------

 * 4-1 Headers from Korea
 * High Flow Racing CAT from Korea
 * O2 Sensor #2 from eBay

  This is going to take a while predicting 2-3 months but that's sure to blow right out, have to do it all between work,  mechanic friends schedules, time with the family and some amount of sleep. Already down $4600 in parts alone - So let the money pit be officially started in all it's glory and lets see how much I can blow without engine swap or rebores. Soon as I get it back the first time I'll get up some photos or hopefully some video - right now I see as much as anyone else, nothing. Have to say I do enjoy riding the bike to work though, lane filtering - the dream.

[wh0-z3]

Some quick answers for people who maybe be looking for answers I've learned along the way about the FD G4GC;

Q: What about cams?
A: Can't change the stroke without changing ECU.

Q: Injector Size, Fuel Pump?
A: Same deal, ECU Controlled.

Q: Ignition / Coil?
A: FD's Leads and Coil have the same rating as V6 commodores, doubt you'd get anywhere near that type of Kw's without a new engine, and again, ECU.

Q: What's a realistic PSI without a new ECU?
A: 6 PSI. We're (more than likely) going to hit fuel shut-off or leaning-out issues anyway. I'm picturing some huge gearing to have strong low-mid range it's the best we can hope for since again the ECU decides 6800 is the rev-limit.

Q: Why a Centrifugal?
A: It fits, it's the cheapest install and it's an everyday drive in traffic with a range of 60-100km/h for around 45 mins a day.

To put it simply, it's not going to work.  Whatever you could be thinking about - it just won't work. It's tough to hear, I know first hand but it's true if you want so much more power, turbo and all those goodies - you're just going to have to buy a car that has it. Crushing, I know - but for us FD owners & lovers that's just reality. We'll see if I have any $$$, family or friends left at the end of this and if I do i'll put it on the dyno, post the results and save everyone else the money and shame of probably not even producing the Kw of a standard Mazda SP25 / SP23.
 

[CraigB]

Q: What about cams?
A: Can't change the stroke without changing ECU.

A cam doesn't change the stroke, that's the Crank.

The cam will give more lift and longer valve opening duration, though lift will be minimal maybe even less than stock because of the supercharger.

The OEM ECU can be slightly modified for minor fuelling adjustments, rev limiter can also be adjusted as mine was taken out to 7500rpm limit.

A cam upgrade is possible though you'll likely need a third party ECU like a Haltech, which I'm fairly sure you're going to require anyway if wanting to install a supercharger as there isn't enough adjustability in the stock ECU and once you have the supercharger you'll need a different cam anyway, plus injectors will need upgrading.

Hint...get the throttle body opened up to match the manifold intake port size and ditch the throttle body spacer, that gives a nice torque increase.

Manifold spacers at the head can make a little bit of difference due to better timing of the air bounce at valve level though a throttle body spacer is absolutely pointless with the type of manifold used in these vehicles.

[wh0-z3]

That's pretty much spot on, as mentioned there will be no CAM changes  - add the supercharger and there's just no room for adjustment be it valve timing or for the ECU to accept a new stroke without a standalone which is what we've tried to avoid from day 0. This will all come to a screeching halt if it takes anything more than the piggyback I already have.
  Early issue requiring either delete or relocation of the AC  - that, on top of the ECU or other module that sits within the OEM airbox also, unsure as to where it will go or what will be done with it.  It's been a few days since the post and my memory was already foggy, there have been other more pressing issues I just can't think of them update when they come back to me, the possibility of an AC delete has sent the missus mad with the rage of a long aussie summer.

The simple answer to pretty much every question you're going to ask or comment on about this car is, "bound by the OEM ECU". I'm no mechanic, i'm lucky to be able to change my own oil but, try calling around some performance places tell them you have an FD 2.0L Petrol and want more power - if your ego is still intact -  sure, get out your savings, get a standalone and the world is yours... but that's not happening here, no no not at all.

[wh0-z3]

Either way it's going to be probably 3 weeks before I'll get to go see the car again with work and family life and I'll have something to show by then. Not exactly going to be looking forward to it being taken apart (again) can only imagine there's another $2k or so worth or hidden broken goodies yet to be found. It's being done through HMS Woodcroft (Hardman himself), SA - during their downtime and between projects that's the only way I can afford it and also why it's going to take so long. They have the ability to make changes to the ECU and I imagine that will be done to the fullest extent before calling on (a) piggyback, safety is high on his priority list and I'm not expecting much at this point in time couple Kw's will do, I could have just dropped all this $$$ on the MX-6 for "that power",  I just love the car - enjoy the novelty and maybe if I ever can convince the missus to drop $6k in one hit on an ECU it'll be ready to produce some power. 

Just to be clear, using (a) piggyback is going to run an additional $1500 atleast in custom wiring, ECU edits and labor alone not to mention sucking valuable engine work time away, if we can get 4 psi without causing leaning, fuel shut off, un-ignorable ECU codes or exploding *things* I may just sit on that... forever. 

[wh0-z3]

I've waited 7 weeks for the headers. *4-2-1* correction from earlier.

[wh0-z3]

I've waited 7 weeks for the headers. *4-2-1* correction from earlier.

Shipped!

[wh0-z3]

4 PSI shouldn't require any changes. To copy this, you will need a slim profile fan, the oil cooler sits where the AC cooler was (you don't *need* to remove it but, I don't use it and, it frees up the pulley.)  Intercooler will be (*should be*) mounted in front of the radiator it's just some cheapy 2% loss(? lol?) who knows and unsure if that's with modification to the front bumper. Haven't seen the car since mid-july ...i think now - i'll pic the headers when they arrive, set to be here 25th-Aug-21, before I give them to hardman. Picked up a Getz with a G4EC for $900 - coolant in the oil - was sold as blown head gasket but was only the waterpump and seals. Goes surprisingly hard and may even be hard to get rid of after a few months of fun with it.  This was around a week before it went away just with the initial mods and definitely not trying to get wrecked by cops - also quite loud at that point;


PS, throttle body spacer is gone, might fit on the getz ill see when I drop off the headers / pick up the spacer and bring it home lol.

<3

[wh0-z3]

[wh0-z3]

*Update*

SPA Turbo FMU 10-100 Adjustable Psi
   
Walbro GSS342

$388 worth of Boonma engine mounts

Eventually this thread will get wrapped up nicely. It's not over, far from it - we're balls deep rn. 

[wh0-z3]

Supercharged '09 G4GC 2.0L Petrol. (FD Hyundai i30) AU - YouTube

Absolutely terrifying right now and I've driven plenty of high-powered cars. We're working on it but, truly sorry to my neighbors and fellow south aussies with this. Over 4k basically turns the dash into a xmas tree right now and it explodes right past the stock rev limiter(?) to 8k shooting flames through gears on heavy load...    Not at all what we were expecting. Using an early 00's toyota cat, hi-flow muffler, stock injectors (195cc IIRC?), bypass is pretty loud too sounds like a big air compressor low down in the revs. the fmu and ecu aren't in sync at all but, it's not a bad thing in this particular situation it's an 18lb pulley for now,  we're waiting on an 8lb. we'll have it dialed in at 6 psi 100% confident. but right now it's being driven every day and as long as we aren't pushing it no xmas tree lights (in saying this, once they're on, they're on and you have to clear or hard reset). OS1 is on the flex piece which is standard from the shark racing (maintec) headers package. os2 is post cat mounted AFTER the flex. if you were to stop here with no supercharger (or turbo I guess) you wont put up engine codes and wont have fuel delivery issues on the stock system.  I'll update as we move forward but for now, enjoy the lazy 0-80 [edit;] & the 20-120 flame shooting.

[wh0-z3]

So, a sad and long road of disappointment leads me to here. After Approximately $11k, frustrating days/weeks/months and I guess a very hurt pride... the supercharger has been removed. 8lb, 12lb, 20lb, 40lb, it doesn't matter, the ECU has never been able to adjust to the A/F requirements. It runs through it's narrow band diagnostics in microseconds - errors out and resets all day every day. Ranging anywhere from 6.4L/100 (0 psi) to 11-13L/100 (which it takes 2 psi before shutting off) and everywhere in between an overall average of 7.9/100 & nothing more than 1/4 throttle ever or it's error codes and weird running for 20 mins (yes I've done it, blasted many a commodore into oblivion...until changing to 3rd & having it basically shut down mid-run). No doubt we've been on the brink of exceeding the stock ECUs ability to prevent damage already. The vortec was never lined up perfectly and never could be absolute - but, now there's additional wear of all the other pullies and god knows how much life has been shortened on the timing belt which was new at the time.  This is what all the money has left me with PROS and CONS in no particular order;

* The mazdas [ANY] piggyback [WILL] never accepted any of the sensor readings (or we never had the software to) so it was never usable
* The stock ECU "intercepts/realizes" the FMU even at any psi change +5psi fuel increase at idle throws FPR codes
* "Back pressure" Let's call it that...* of fuel i.e it cannot recirculate the unused fuel the GSS342 is pushing
* Playing a huge part in that you can't adjust the pressure above stock by +/- 0.5-1.0-5.0.
* The oxygen sensor was replaced 3 times, 1 OEM, 2 "ebay OEM" in 5 months.
* Boost was powerful when it was on
* A stock 2L G4GC
* People asking if it's a rally car
* Headers (which required an aftermarket CAT to stop throwing engine light)
* Ram air (Essentially a POD filter with some cool piping)
* A mounted intercooler connected to nothing
* A few good street races
* Many error code resets
* Lots of pops and bangs and head turns
* An FMU that is running stock fuel pressure
* A GSS342
* An oil cooler
* HD Clutch and Lightened matched flywheel
* A boost controller sitting in the boot (hey, maybe it's useful for something else?)
* HD Engine mounts from Boonma(?)
* Untold amounts of damage to the entire pulley system and engine internals
* People asking if it's a rally car
* Not being able to use more than 1/4 throttle for 5-7 months without check engine light.
* No savings and a car I want to get rid of
* -Throttle body spacer that got sold on the 1.5L Getz (I used while the i30 was in pieces)
* +$1100 on the sale of the Getz

So, with all of that said, with a very heavy heart & depleted bank account; We have the end of FD G4GC 2.0L Supercharged.  Sure I was told it wouldn't work & to some extent, it didn't. I was always going to stay true to the budget simply because I had nothing more. The sale of the Getz was the last 1k which is the 1k over budget... and that was labor to remove everything and put it back to what it is now... a big expensive disappointment. Just now as writing this I remembered the additional $990 to have Classic performance flash & edit the ecu to the best of their abilities so we could run the 2psi. Damn that's another $445 to go back to standard, so even after all the bloody knuckles and grease-covered clothes - tomorrow on the way to work I still can't give it anything - I need to book in and have the ecu reset, FFS.

I want to thank everyone who contributed and to everyone who offered advice good and bad - may be bigger to the ones who said it essentially wasn't worth it and I didn't listen, I'm sorry for that... very much so, So is my family and my bank account sometimes you just have to walk that road for yourself and take the good with the bad, anyway guess I'm next in line for the first available EG/EK Civic hatch!
Surely I've PAID my dues!!

I'll post up whatever videos and pictures I can find, but essentially this IS THE END of this thread; I had dropped my phone around 6 months ago (when I went silent) so I'm not sure what I can dig up.


TLDR; No, it really isn't worth it or viable. Start with a platform that has support from day 0. It's cool to be a trendsetter but only when you actually can set a trend. Please, do not sink the kind of money into this project - it will NEVER be worth the effort.

[wh0-z3]

Day 0;
PRE-END: Day 0: We have the end of FD G4GC 2.0L Supercharged - YouTube

3 Months in leaving the mechanic thought all was well;
We have the end of FD G4GC 2.0L Supercharged - YouTube

6 months or so deep, angry coming home from the mechanic knowing i'd have to resets codes when I got home already, bit of recirculation sound & kinda cool;
We have the end of FD G4GC 2.0L Supercharged - YouTube

[CraigB]

Unfortunate result sort of knew the engine wouldn't last long with that amount of extra torque.

Lucky you never installed the Haltech ECU,  would have been another 5K down the drain