i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => PETROL => Topic started by: Henri on August 30, 2018, 06:02:39
-
Hello,
Worst happened and the chain did jump over the sprocket teeth and major engine failure is evident. My last lesson learned was that when idle is lost, don't try to hill start from speed, not at least with gear 1. Engine cranks but noises are evil.
Now plan is to remove the engine cylinder head and see what is happened expecting bent valves as a minimum.
I've done timing belt changes to Audi 1.6, Toyota 1.6 few types and also some old Nissan what I remember but never Hyundai or any chain engine. Is there something special good-to-know things besides normal technical engine structures? Consider me as experienced DIY mechanics. I've studied as car mechanics for 3 years and done 20 years for all own car repairs and some friends cars too.
The plan is to open the engine and do it DIY and let the valve fitting/head assembly to be done by a friend who tunes rally engines. I'm just wondering if there is some very special tool needed or is there any "mines" laid such as Ford compressed camshaft sprocket type things which requires the whole shaft to be replaced if sprocket is bad.
Engine compartment seems to have plenty of room and quite easy to open but what to expect from the inside...
-
Sorry to hear this. We don't have that motor down under, it is petrol???
The pre 2016 VWs down here apparently have the same vulnerability with hill starts.
-
Sorry to hear this. We don't have that motor down under, it is petrol???
The pre 2016 VWs down here apparently have the same vulnerability with hill starts.
Hi and thanks for reply. It is petrol engine.
-
I think correct type is 1.4 CVVT. No turbo and very basic in general.
-
I think correct type is 1.4 CVVT. No turbo and very basic in general.
We never had that motor in our i30's in Australia where our two main Technical Advisors are located, although if it helps I am fairly certain it is the same motor used in the lower spec Getz from 2006 over here. We have a couple of semi regular tech heads from Europe that may see this post and be able to help given time. :fingers:
-
Are you saying you attempted a clutch start at speed and dumped the clutch into 1st gear and that's how this happened?
-
Are you saying you attempted a clutch start at speed and dumped the clutch into 1st gear and that's how this happened?
I think he did the clutch start after the chain slipped.
I did something similar in my Datto.
Got a belly full of water in a creek crossing, through the air filters and Webber's.
Stalled and trying to start it just produced a click.
Thought the battery was flat so we pushed it out of the creek and up a gentle slope then ran it back down the hill and jump started it in reverse?
Bent two rods, one badly enough to score the bore.
-
2441025001
(https://k-spare.com/image/cache/data/2441025001_s-500x500.jpg)
243502B000 or 243502B010 this changed early 2011
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/EL8AAOSwax5Y0k3T/s-l500.jpg)
242212B000
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/pbQAAOSwBt5ZEWmj/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://cdn.4mycar.com.ua/images/7/6100731546_1.jpg)
:link: New Genuine FAI Timing Chain Kit TCK203VVT Top Quality | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Genuine-FAI-Timing-Chain-Kit-TCK203VVT-Top-Quality/202367154989?epid=0&hash=item2f1e05bb2d:g:r9kAAOSwJGlbRmcJ)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/r9kAAOSwJGlbRmcJ/s-l1600.jpg)
VALVE - INTAKE [222112B400]
(https://http2.mlstatic.com/valvula-admissao-motor-hb20-13-1-peca-hyundai-222112b400-D_NQ_NP_561811-MLB20644055753_032016-O.webp)
VALVE - EXHAUST [222122B000]
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/hVwAAOSw6n5XqPGG/s-l1600.jpg)
GUIDE - CHAIN [244312B000]
(http://koraps.com/udz/attachment.php?size=B&it_id=308415)
TENSIONER ARM ASSY [244202B000]
(http://koraps.com/udz/attachment.php?size=B&it_id=308414]http://koraps.com/udz/attachment.php?size=B&it_id=308414)
SPROCKET - CRANKSHAFT [231212B000]
(http://www.koraps.com/udz/attachment.php?size=B&it_id=308381)
(https://hyundai.7zap.com/ImgsWatermark/Imgs/Cats/HEURPJDH/20240A11.png)
-
Are you saying you attempted a clutch start at speed and dumped the clutch into 1st gear and that's how this happened?
In detail it went like this:
- My wife told me that the car makes some weird noise sometimes but she couldn't identify what it was. I tried my best to narrow more and found it is not brakes and wheels
- I started to drive with this car as a daily basis to work to find out what it can be
- once after 60km trip motor fault light, the yellow one - not oil, lid and I think the car had kind of power loss but worked quite ok anyway. I thought it may be some fault safety mode active. Only engine symptom was slightly waving idle but not bad. I didn't have experience how this car works when it was ok
- I continued driving for few days while ordered ODB2 reader was coming and the car was the same all these days
- Once when I left to work car lost idle completely and it did run quite poor but still was running without any evil noise
- Next time I was stopping to crossroad I hill started just before car stop and that was the final hit
Still, ODB2 reader has not arrived but I guess light came to report I have timing error. I was not more cautious about the light because I have half year period of fault hunting with my Audi and motor fault light was kind of "normal" minor fault report for me. It was second lambda and vacuum leak combined on Audi. Furthermore, I didn't have experience of how this car performed normally.
Now I know how this could have been avoided and would recognize chain error symptoms. Also as a second thought, I remember this car had quite a rough sound when we bought it 18000 km ago. But I thought it is normal because the car has the label from authorized service just before we bought it. I couldn't even think it can have such common symptoms because it has been in hands of professional Hyundai mechanics.
-
It's a tough one. You'd have to check if there is any recommended or mandatory replacement of the timing system as part of routine servicing.
I'd consider 120000K premature for a chain system but I'm guessing likely the tensioner failed.
Not a design I've seen before.
(http://angarasolaris.com/public/img/timthumb.php?src=/public/img/parts/natajitel-cepi-grm-solaris-2441025001-3290.jpg&w=398)
If it's logbook serviced may be worth a shot of out of wty claim, not sure what consumer laws you have.
Only thing against you is likely the fact it was making funny noises and it was still driven.
Real unlucky
Would wonder with all the work and parts involved if a used low K engine is a viable option
-
It's a tough one. You'd have to check if there is any recommended or mandatory replacement of the timing system as part of routine servicing.
I'd consider 120000K premature for a chain system but I'm guessing likely the tensioner failed.
Not a design I've seen before.
(http://angarasolaris.com/public/img/timthumb.php?src=/public/img/parts/natajitel-cepi-grm-solaris-2441025001-3290.jpg&w=398)
If it's logbook serviced may be worth a shot of out of wty claim, not sure what consumer laws you have.
Only thing against you is likely the fact it was making funny noises and it was still driven.
Real unlucky
Would wonder with all the work and parts involved if a used low K engine is a viable option
Thanks TW2005, these help a lot!
Our law favors a customer and importer/dealer opinion is that about half of the repair would be covered maximum. It is in line with my earlier experiences with friends dealing with car issues. These follow consumer protection recommendations.
However, I planned to repair it myself because there is always a risk they charge the whole repair from me because of the reasons you told too. It would end up long argumentation who is responsible and how.
For me based on those images you sent, this looks that structure is simple and traditional.
Do you have maintenance book pages for this procedure? Tightening torques etc. I need to find as a minimum. All info no matter how small helps.
-
This seems to be partial set without Stefa and some sprocket. Is some important missing on this?
:link: FAI AutoParts Jakoketjusarja ilman tiivisteitä (TCK203NG) (https://www.autonvaraosat24.fi/fai-autoparts/7887981)
(https://image.ibb.co/dLeda9/image.png) (https://imgbb.com/)
-
Camshaft sprocket and sfefa are missing on that cheaper FAI bundle. With these kilometers, camshaft sprocket should be fine.
-
I saw various levels of kit. can't advise other than help with OEM numbers.
Likely have the procedure, you'll have to wait another day for that or someone else out there may have the manual.
I am wondering about the sprocket setup with VVT, maybe @nzenigma has some experience.
getting late for me to start dumping images from the guides, takes a lot of my time to do so. :sleeping:
-
Camshaft sprocket and sfefa are missing on that cheaper FAI bundle. With these kilometers, camshaft sprocket should be fine.
have you stripped it yet? Unknown could be teeth damage. It's going to be one of those jobs that may grow in size as you get in there especially the valves. I've been in a situation with a DOHC 24 valve V6 and what appeared to be about 10 valves ended up at 19 or 20 of the 24 bent plus head damage and welding, machining, etc etc.
I'd stick to quality brands or OEM though for the bits.
-
I saw various levels of kit. can't advise other than help with OEM numbers.
Likely have the procedure, you'll have to wait another day for that or someone else out there may have the manual.
I am wondering about the sprocket setup with VVT, maybe @nzenigma has some experience.
getting late for me to start dumping images from the guides, takes a lot of my time to do so. :sleeping:
I'm not in hurry with this. I start disassembly on the weekend and then order needed parts. It would take 1 - 2 weeks to arrive. If you have repair shop manual pages and are willing to share them, I will compensate (Paypal) reasonably your effort. General repair manual would cost something anyway and do not cover that deeply.
-
Sorry Henri, I haven't had experience here, Im guessing that your motor is the same as our 1.6 L motor bought out in late FDs. Possibly related to the 1.8L motor in the later GD.
If that is the case the repair manual is available (disc) on ebay for $10
It is a reliable motor and your problem is not recorded.
I would suggest you strip it down and find the damage, I agree that being low Ks, its not necessary to buy extensive kits.
-
Sorry Henri, I haven't had experience here, Im guessing that your motor is the same as our 1.6 L motor bought out in late FDs. Possibly related to the 1.8L motor in the later GD.
If that is the case the repair manual is available (disc) on ebay for $10
It is a reliable motor and your problem is not recorded.
I would suggest you strip it down and find the damage, I agree that being low Ks, its not necessary to buy extensive kits.
I found repair manual you referred. It comes from Australia and takes 2-3 weeks to arrive. For online downloadable pdf I'd be glad to pay triple if it is genuine and real for this engine. There seems to be several scam sites offering this too but those looks like the trap asking all Visa numbers.
-
Sorry Henri, I haven't had experience here, Im guessing that your motor is the same as our 1.6 L motor bought out in late FDs. Possibly related to the 1.8L motor in the later GD.
If that is the case the repair manual is available (disc) on ebay for $10
It is a reliable motor and your problem is not recorded.
I would suggest you strip it down and find the damage, I agree that being low Ks, its not necessary to buy extensive kits.
geez mate, ruining an enterprise opportunity, I was going charge at least $100 :lol:
-
Sorry Henri, I haven't had experience here, Im guessing that your motor is the same as our 1.6 L motor bought out in late FDs. Possibly related to the 1.8L motor in the later GD.
If that is the case the repair manual is available (disc) on ebay for $10
It is a reliable motor and your problem is not recorded.
I would suggest you strip it down and find the damage, I agree that being low Ks, its not necessary to buy extensive kits.
geez mate, ruining an enterprise opportunity, I was going charge at least $100 :lol:
Yes, He did mention scam sites :evil:
-
Sorry Henri, I haven't had experience here, Im guessing that your motor is the same as our 1.6 L motor bought out in late FDs. Possibly related to the 1.8L motor in the later GD.
If that is the case the repair manual is available (disc) on ebay for $10
It is a reliable motor and your problem is not recorded.
I would suggest you strip it down and find the damage, I agree that being low Ks, its not necessary to buy extensive kits.
geez mate, ruining an enterprise opportunity, I was going charge at least $100 :lol:
Yes, He did mention scam sites :evil:
PM your way on another topic. :evil:
-
Henri, I'll get there eventually :goodjob2:
-
Does this manual look like genuine Hyundai workshop manual?
:link: Hyundai i30 Workshop Service & Repair Manual (https://www.easymanuals.co.uk/product/hyundai-i30-workshop-service-repair-manual/)
-
To answer you question; my antivirus( Bitdefender ) blocked it. :whistler:
-
To answer you question; my antivirus( Bitdefender ) blocked it. :whistler:
Cool! If it looks too good to be true, it is not true. It is sad that 90% of Google first page hits on this topic are the scam. Or perhaps I smell easy target.
So back to the beginning to search at least cylinder head bolt tightening torques.
-
I checked that with Scamadviser and it looks to be real and not scam. This site seems to offer Paypal option which scam sites never offer. I think it is ok, Australian based owner with real looking name and address.
(https://preview.ibb.co/di8BDU/image.png) (https://ibb.co/gw2Gf9)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ntXotU/image.png) (https://ibb.co/czPe09)
-
you don't need to pay a cent in fact if you have a laptop to spare and create a new user account, dowload the GDS software because the manual is incorporated in that. Torrent files
Only issue is if you do all the updates they built in an annoying feature that detects the software has not been updated. it is large and slow to load
Or there was a Virtual machine image with it loaded I think I paid $15
-
To answer you question; my antivirus( Bitdefender ) blocked it. :whistler:
Cool! If it looks too good to be true, it is not true. It is sad that 90% of Google first page hits on this topic are the scam. Or perhaps I smell easy target.
So back to the beginning to search at least cylinder head bolt tightening torques.
It is rare for Bitdefender to react like that so leave it if you just need basic pages and torque . I can knock up a few pdf pages that will cover what you need.
-
What Gerard is suggesting is better , it is a huge file, but you will have everything you did and didn't want..
-
To answer you question; my antivirus( Bitdefender ) blocked it. :whistler:
Bitdefender is known for being overzealous, I tested the page and all is fine :goodjob2:
Test results to which Bitdefender shows clean :D
:link: VirusTotal (https://www.virustotal.com/#/url/042947428b067d62f7d79b5e631177112fa2aa6188888f2fda6bce5f538d350a/detection)
-
:link: Hyundai Electronic Repair Manual - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYHAWgBX0RI)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYHAWgBX0RI
-
:link: eManualOnline - Car Workshop Manuals, Service Manuals, Repair Manuals, Online Manuals (http://www.emanualonline.com/info/OVA-Files.html)
:link: Hyundai i30 Workshop Service Repair Manual (https://www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Hyundai/I-Models/i30/Hyundai-i30-Workshop-Manual.html)
-
The one I got I don't think it had much past 2010 even though it showed 2012 and It has other Hyundais. Advantage here is it's installed as a Virtual machine so once you have it downloaded, you just need VMWare
-
To answer you question; my antivirus( Bitdefender ) blocked it. :whistler:
Cool! If it looks too good to be true, it is not true. It is sad that 90% of Google first page hits on this topic are the scam. Or perhaps I smell easy target.
So back to the beginning to search at least cylinder head bolt tightening torques.
It is rare for Bitdefender to react like that so leave it if you just need basic pages and torque . I can knock up a few pdf pages that will cover what you need.
That's minimum I need and others I have to figure out on the fly then. Tightening cylinder head can be the critical part. Please knock up (just learned new term) what you can and will. I'm happy with all details which helps on this repair.
-
The one I got I don't think it had much past 2010 even though it showed 2012 and It has other Hyundais. Advantage here is it's installed as a Virtual machine so once you have it downloaded, you just need VMWare
The virtual machine is new to me even I use it at work :). If needed I learn that too. But I try to get pdf pages to cover this repair first. That another helpful guy told he could get them.
-
Please knock up (just learned new term)
Use that term sparingly... it also means "to get a lady pregnant..." :snigger:
-
Please knock up (just learned new term)
Use that term sparingly... it also means "to get a lady pregnant..." :snigger:
Shoosh, I was making him the stud of Helsinki. :D
Ok mate will do :undecided: knock up :undecided: create some pages in the morning and get them to you. Cheers.
-
(https://preview.ibb.co/cmCovK/sfdem8040l.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cuvmhz)
(https://preview.ibb.co/e2PXpe/1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jKm1hz)
-
(https://preview.ibb.co/dBoE2z/sfdem8011l.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gGzMhz)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iDMTUe/2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eVaYvK)
-
There's way too much info to copy across
better budget for new head bolts, says always use new ones, likely they're torqued to yield
-
(https://preview.ibb.co/nxcXNz/timing_1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fWpOUe)
(https://preview.ibb.co/izDghz/timing_2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nEqSNz)
-
(https://preview.ibb.co/n9aBhz/a.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cbsDvK)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dCKF9e/b.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b9srhz)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jF38Ue/c.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ezhfaK)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fboWhz/d.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dvV0aK)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ir1TUe/e.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hx1j2z)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cV2DvK/f.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iu7faK)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kEYa9e/g.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bEQBhz)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jWdLaK/h.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mROmFK)
-
(https://preview.ibb.co/j14JvK/i.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dUHtUe)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ju8dvK/j.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hEp7pe)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bAhtUe/k.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eObyvK)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ijzJvK/l.jpg) (https://ibb.co/di4kaK)
(https://preview.ibb.co/c7Z7pe/m.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cchGhz)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dvdBFK/n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k7j7pe)
-
This has become somewhat rediculous. So i've deleted posts try this, should make you happy :yahoo:
Google Drive Share
:link: i30 Owners Club shared - Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1PDlNK2MvvGH2crTKwZpatpLCHYoPfawd?usp=sharing)
please send me feedback on it if it's working etc!
-
More awesome work Gerard. I've run out of thank yous so I've had a discussion with Shambles ad we've doubled your volunteer allowance. Unfortunately (bugger all x 2) is still not a lot. :spitty: :Pout:
-
More awesome work Gerard. I've run out of thank yous so I've had a discussion with Shambles ad we've doubled your volunteer allowance. Unfortunately (bugger all x 2) is still not a lot. :spitty: :Pout:
As my wife would say.........Sure! :victory:
-
Hey Yo ! There's a percentage for night shift too :spitty:
Thanks Gerard, saved my Saturday morning, I Knocked up some pages last night, but as you say gets ridiculous. Link works beautifully.
I shall return to finding you some facts .. about something... maybe anything.. who knows :cool:
-
Hey Yo ! There's a percentage for night shift too :spitty:
Thanks Gerard, saved my Saturday morning, I Knocked up some pages last night, but as you say gets ridiculous. Link works beautifully.
I shall return to finding you some facts .. about something... maybe anything.. who knows :cool:
I need another cheap project
-
Work on my PM , 1 min ago :twisted:
-
Thanks for these instructions!
I just came to show how it looks here and noticed these. Also I'm wondering if camshaft bolt is left or right handed?
(https://preview.ibb.co/g3zfUe/20180902_142434.jpg) (https://ibb.co/buL9Nz)
-
This shows valve touching the piston.
(https://preview.ibb.co/jZjavK/20180902_115907_HDR.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cyUm2z)
-
I would think anticlockwise to undo. You know as much as I do at this point, potentially more :mrgreen: :scared:
-
This is how the engine looks. Type code I haven't seen yet.
(https://preview.ibb.co/bLocsz/20180902_145825.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hjs3Xz)
-
Instructions tell something about removing transaxle bolts? I don't get it why. Perhaps I find out later but now sounds strange.
-
Instructions tell something about removing transaxle bolts? I don't get it why. Perhaps I find out later but now sounds strange.
makes sense if you read it. talks about access cover and installing the special tool in place to lock the crank at the flywheel. Won't make sense if you don't have that tool.
-
Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.
Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
-
:faint: I could be having breakfast
-
Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.
Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
-
:disapp: anticlock
-
Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.
Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter engine, please land.
It's RC isn't it ;)
-
:disapp: anticlock
You mean it opens anticlockwise?
-
Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.
Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter engine, please land.
It's RC isn't it ;)
Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
-
Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.
Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter engine, please land.
It's RC isn't it ;)
Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.
-
Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.
Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter engine, please land.
It's RC isn't it ;)
Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.
Yep, this is what I do. Coffee break parliament at work came to the same conclusion and it has to be the truth.
-
Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.
Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter engine, please land.
It's RC isn't it ;)
Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.
Yep, this is what I do. Coffee break parliament at work came to the same conclusion and it has to be the truth.
Ok, So the President is now involved? Or is google translate playing with us?
fallback position, this Guy.
(http://www4.pictures.zimbio.com/gi/Mika+Hakkinen+IGc51GGyoaXm.jpg)
:mrgreen: :goodjob2:
-
Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.
Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter engine, please land.
It's RC isn't it ;)
Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.
Yep, this is what I do. Coffee break parliament at work came to the same conclusion and it has to be the truth.
Ok, So the President is now involved? Or is google translate playing with us?
fallback position, this Guy.
(http://www4.pictures.zimbio.com/gi/Mika+Hakkinen+IGc51GGyoaXm.jpg)
:mrgreen: :goodjob2:
No Google translate is used. President of our company may be involved. At work we have a coffee break twice in a day and one lunch break too. There are dozen engineers and fourty technicians of all kind many of them having rally or other car sport or tuning hobby. That is our parliament where discussion flows with technical minded people and all kind of opinions are released. Just pick those sounding the most reliable and follow them.
"Who wants to be a millionare, ask from audience" - TV show kind of system. I just can ask as many times needed.
-
Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.
Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter engine, please land.
It's RC isn't it ;)
Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.
Yep, this is what I do. Coffee break parliament at work came to the same conclusion and it has to be the truth.
Ok, So the President is now involved? Or is google translate playing with us?
fallback position, this Guy.
(http://www4.pictures.zimbio.com/gi/Mika+Hakkinen+IGc51GGyoaXm.jpg)
:mrgreen: :goodjob2:
No Google translate is used. President of our company may be involved. At work we have a coffee break twice in a day and one lunch break too. There are dozen engineers and fourty technicians of all kind many of them having rally or other car sport or tuning hobby. That is our parliament where discussion flows with technical minded people and all kind of opinions are released. Just pick those sounding the most reliable and follow them.
"Who wants to be a millionare, ask from audience" - TV show kind of system. I just can ask as many times needed.
Love your humour, Sounds like a place I dream of :winker:
-
:agreed: Yes, I'm liking these guys already. :D
My 6am pre coffee responses may have confused both of us. :undecided:
I often use the starter motor to 'crack' the crank shaft bolt especially on an automatic where I cant lock the engine in low gear.
By having a long bar going from socket to a jack stand on the right hand side of the motor, a quick on/off of the starter will usually loosen the bolt.
-
Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.
Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter engine, please land.
It's RC isn't it ;)
Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.
Yep, this is what I do. Coffee break parliament at work came to the same conclusion and it has to be the truth.
Ok, So the President is now involved? Or is google translate playing with us?
fallback position, this Guy.
(http://www4.pictures.zimbio.com/gi/Mika+Hakkinen+IGc51GGyoaXm.jpg)
:mrgreen: :goodjob2:
No Google translate is used. President of our company may be involved. At work we have a coffee break twice in a day and one lunch break too. There are dozen engineers and fourty technicians of all kind many of them having rally or other car sport or tuning hobby. That is our parliament where discussion flows with technical minded people and all kind of opinions are released. Just pick those sounding the most reliable and follow them.
"Who wants to be a millionare, ask from audience" - TV show kind of system. I just can ask as many times needed.
Love your humour, Sounds like a place I dream of :winker:
Come here to see the land of the happiest people, really I can't believe we honored such prize.
(https://preview.ibb.co/cHXNje/Screenshot_2018_09_05_19_24_45.png) (https://ibb.co/d4q8Pe)
But hey, camshaft bolt is open! That opened counterclockwise.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kVQa4e/20180905_192119_HDR.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i4oHHz)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bNtTPe/15361649990881880555255.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hmyv4e)
-
Holy Cow batman, nice hardware
-
But hey, camshaft bolt is open! That opened counterclockwise.
Enigma exits right, amid deafening applause :happydance:
Enigma, returns to stage to further enjoy his/her/it's triumph and informs rapturous audience that 'The Partner' was in Helsinki earlier this year , loved the place and people, and we are planning to return next year- extended Scando holiday.
:goodjob2:
Now back to work , all of youz.
-
In case someone plans to make this same operation I keep adding hints for some steps (best practises I found).
One challenging task may be removing this aluminium cover. I found it difficult to first tear sealing glue and then slide bottom of the cover out from camshaft. And these operations with minimal damage on sealing surfaces.
Those small angle bars were perfect for this and cost few € each only. They are thin, wide and short. All required features. Normal screwdriver may work as well but it feels so narrow and may leave mark on surface. That cover has to keep oil inside.
(https://preview.ibb.co/mChKN9/20180909_195544.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cKJth9)
-
This tensioner has some kind of automatic adjustment. That toothed bar should come out one teeth at a time when chain loosens. I found approx 5-7 mm cap in between tensioner pusher rod and black plastic guide. Apparently that toothed system has not worked. When I pulled toothed rod out few mm by hand it locked in place and chain is tight.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kYxNQU/20180909_200846.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nMzrKp)
-
This one blank screw seems to be check hole for something on tensioner.
(https://preview.ibb.co/cV8Xs9/20180909_202641.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nGZizp)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nhv1kU/20180909_202625.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i6s3zp)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hJBwKp/20180909_202536.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ixmkC9)
-
Cool to get obd reader now afterwards, thanks to postal system. Fault code is clear and would have revealed coming failure beforehand.
From now on this reader travels on my car keychain with car specific software installed.
(Note, if you read this and have engine fault light ON and feel underpowered engine, STOP. Get a reader or get someone to help and check if timing error code is present). Lesson learned: this car do not have "safety mode" in this case. Power loss is due mistiming...
(https://preview.ibb.co/dmdCQU/20180909_203346_HDR.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kMt1Kp)
-
Thanks Henri, some helpful and interesting stuff there. :goodjob:
-
Thanks for you reports Henri,
Use the Foxwell myself good unit but some i30 updates are not available for some reason
The hole you point to on the tensioner is probably for a pin to hold it closed until install is finished.
Probably has a spring but will also rely upon oil pressure. Irrespective, get a new one.
-
Thanks for you reports Henri,
Use the Foxwell myself good unit but some i30 updates are not available for some reason
The hole you point to on the tensioner is probably for a pin to hold it closed until install is finished.
Probably has a spring but will also rely upon oil pressure. Irrespective, get a new one.
Oil pressure push piston out and piston end should push toothed rod with kind of fork. That is seen on my previous message up there. Teeth are maybe 2-3 mm apart each other and that is maximum cap it should allow before next rod teeth climbs over the holder teeth. I'm not sure why it was stuck in this case. I guess that rod guide is too loose and rod can go sideways somehow and stuck. Anyway, I get new one at any day.
Could someone post pages from service manual for removing inlet and outlet from cylinder head? Especially where screws are located and how many to expect of them before begin apply force.
-
Thanks Henri, some helpful and interesting stuff there. :goodjob:
Thanks Dazzler!
-
additional 5 pdf files added to the link
-
additional 5 pdf files added to the link
Perfect, thank you!
-
Almost there.
Service manual instructions ask to remove half of the parts from engine compartment. I skipped some parts such as "remove battery tray". So far no need for that.
Disassembly has been pretty straightforward and nothing special yet. Valves look good at inlet side and no any major damage is present.
(https://preview.ibb.co/bZBvZp/20180911_202024.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c53nfU)
-
Almost there.
Service manual instructions ask to remove half of the parts from engine compartment. I skipped some parts such as "remove battery tray". So far no need for that.
Disassembly has been pretty straightforward and nothing special yet. Valves look good at inlet side and no any major damage is present.
(https://preview.ibb.co/bZBvZp/20180911_202024.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c53nfU)
Can be deceptive, you'd have to get them leak tested. ?
-
Almost there.
Service manual instructions ask to remove half of the parts from engine compartment. I skipped some parts such as "remove battery tray". So far no need for that.
Disassembly has been pretty straightforward and nothing special yet. Valves look good at inlet side and no any major damage is present.
Can be deceptive, you'd have to get them leak tested. ?
That was my immediate response too. An easy test is to place the head upside down ( cams pointing away from the valves) and pour petrol into each combustion recess. If the valves are bent they will leak. You could do this with petrol into each port too.
Its quite rare to not have some valve damage in this scenario.
-
I think I can spot your problem. I think it's the orange rag (not meant to be there!) :snigger:
But seriously, if no valve damage you need to buy a lottery ticket!
-
Didn't you have a picture of a valve touching piston? :sweating: :sweating:
If all checks out OK , it would must have JUST (1/3 of a SFA) missed. :happydance:
-
Oil pressure push piston out and piston end should push toothed rod with kind of fork. That is seen on my previous message up there. Teeth are maybe 2-3 mm apart each other and that is maximum cap it should allow before next rod teeth climbs over the holder teeth. I'm not sure why it was stuck in this case. I guess that rod guide is too loose and rod can go sideways somehow and stuck.
I noticed in your first message saying that you tried to do a hill start . If you do that, you don't have oil pressure to the tensioner = no tensioner.
The circa 2015 VW and possibly Skoda were having the same trouble. Rolling backwards a major do not.
-
Oil pressure push piston out and piston end should push toothed rod with kind of fork. That is seen on my previous message up there. Teeth are maybe 2-3 mm apart each other and that is maximum cap it should allow before next rod teeth climbs over the holder teeth. I'm not sure why it was stuck in this case. I guess that rod guide is too loose and rod can go sideways somehow and stuck.
I noticed in your first message saying that you tried to do a hill start . If you do that, you don't have oil pressure to the tensioner = no tensioner.
The circa 2015 VW and possibly Skoda were having the same trouble. Rolling backwards a major do not.
Sorry I messed quote with slippy oily fingers trying to operate mobile phone... This following is for someone who commented text above:
I made the hill start which was the final push. But Inthink it is not a reason for failure. This is my best guess today: chain is longer than should--> tensioner toothed backlash rod didn't lock in place with that long chain. Therefore chain had change to become too loose. That toothed rod should prevent chain become too loose before oil pressure reach the tensioner piston. I pulled toothed rod by hand and it locked one step tighter which made chain quite tight. So failure is because of too long chain which forced tensioner to operate at it's limits where it never reach without hand assist.
For other guys who commented: inlet valves can be tested with gasoline (or ethanol) and furthermore with compressed air. Exhaust is not so easy due motor angle. I try to do tests at least with compressed air later this week. I don't have spark plug adapter and need to make one.
Never ending lottery is always active but no luck at that frontier either.
-
I found easy way to remove exhaust manifold without opening catalysator rusty bolts (Ipad, which I use for reading manual, battery was flat and I guess service manual instructed to remove catalysator because it instructs to remove everything:) )
I detached two exhaust tube (correct term?) support rubbers and one bolt holding the catalysator. Then exhaust manidold had enough room to fall from cylinder head.
(https://preview.ibb.co/k2rSX9/20180912_205402.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mZS1s9)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kSFbQU/20180912_205354.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d0ikKp)
(https://preview.ibb.co/h8xCzp/20180912_205345.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cjtkKp)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mDseep/20180912_205312.jpg) (https://ibb.co/chsO5U)
-
This following is for someone who commented text above:
I made the hill start which was the final push. But Inthink it is not a reason for failure.
For other guys who commented: inlet valves can be tested with gasoline (or ethanol)
Appears that I am both someone and also other guys :mrgreen:
The tensioner is there for a good reason . The timing chain will stretch over time. Its usable life should be double or triple your kms. Otherwise we would stick with timing belts and change them every 100K km.
As I said petrol is a practical method to check valves assuming head is off. If use the compressed air method you will need to lock the motor or turn each cylinder to BDC. If not the air pressure will spin the motor and cause damage.
Cheers
-
This is new and old side by side. New one is FAI. Other end of the chain is in level with each other and other end reveals how much old is longer. On half way the difference is approx 3mm. The distance in between pins of the chain is 6.0-6.5mm.
So totally difference is almost on full chain element! It's not surprise tensioner went to the limit.
(https://preview.ibb.co/bz5f4p/20180913_193024.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kFd04p)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cfyNH9/20180913_192703.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gJk2H9)
-
Just made leak test by using ethanol. All 8 valves which were easy to test leaks.
-
This is new and old side by side. New one is FAI. Other end of the chain is in level with each other and other end reveals how much old is longer. On half way the difference is approx 3mm. The distance in between pins of the chain is 6.0-6.5mm.
So totally difference is almost on full chain element! It's not surprise tensioner went to the limit.
(https://preview.ibb.co/bz5f4p/20180913_193024.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kFd04p)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cfyNH9/20180913_192703.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gJk2H9)
It's all those hard flat shifts your doing on the limiter :mrgreen:
-
Just made leak test by using ethanol. All 8 valves which were easy to test leaks.
Sorry, Missing a bit in translation :confused: Are they sealed or leaking?
To be honest, I cant comment on how much chain stretch is acceptable on any particular motor. I do know from past experience that the chains and probably tensioners are supplied by independent manufactures . Some are better than others depending upon supplier.
On the French :spitty: made Nissan turbo diesels for instance, pre 2007 motors went to about 250K km, which is still crap, but not as bad as the next batch that lasted until 140K km when the jumped or snapped.
-
What would the useable life of the timing chain be in this case? I'd hope for at least 300'000km, of course there may be outliers in the results such at this one but with my i30 nearing 250k km I am rather worried :faint:
Also, good to read about the hill starts and it not producing enough oil pressure for the tensioner - it would make logical sense and something to avoid where possible :goodjob2:
-
Also, good to read about the hill starts and it not producing enough oil pressure for the tensioner - it would make logical sense and something to avoid where possible :goodjob2:
:goodjob2: The knowledge I have comes from ex- East Europeans, (colleagues for many years) who work on VW Skoda etc.
With due respect to Henri, he seems to be ignoring the fact that his chain failed on a hill start. No earlier symptoms such as rattle, or why a relatively low Kms chain failed, has been explored.
@PhireSide with regard to 300,000km chain life, it depends on the motor. In the past 300,000 miles or NEVER used to be reasonable.
However, we used to have large , naturally aspirated, 6 or 8 cylinder engines, that went for ever, we are now getting similar power out of 4 cylinder, 2.2 litre engines with a turbo..
Gut feeling tells me that these smaller motors will not last as long as the big old brutes.
I think :mrgreen:
-
What would the useable life of the timing chain be in this case? I'd hope for at least 300'000km, of course there may be outliers in the results such at this one but with my i30 nearing 250k km I am rather worried :faint:
Also, good to read about the hill starts and it not producing enough oil pressure for the tensioner - it would make logical sense and something to avoid where possible :goodjob2:
Based on first-hand experience, this time I'm very 100% sure, this chain wouldn't have survived much longer. The fact is that engine fault light became before hill start. I hill started after engine shut down while rolling downhill clutch pressed. Then I made the hill start and broke the engine. The fact is that engine fault was active almost 100 km. A fault code is timing over advanced, or something this way. There is a photo up there shot from code reader.
So, chain most likely jumped over the teeth somewhere on normal use and second or third teeth on the hill start.
-
Also, good to read about the hill starts and it not producing enough oil pressure for the tensioner - it would make logical sense and something to avoid where possible :goodjob2:
:goodjob2: The knowledge I have comes from ex- East Europeans, (colleagues for many years) who work on VW Skoda etc.
With due respect to Henri, he seems to be ignoring the fact that his chain failed on a hill start. No earlier symptoms such as rattle, or why a relatively low Kms chain failed, has been explored.
@PhireSide with regard to 300,000km chain life, it depends on the motor. In the past 300,000 miles or NEVER used to be reasonable.
However, we used to have large , naturally aspirated, 6 or 8 cylinder engines, that went for ever, we are now getting similar power out of 4 cylinder, 2.2 litre engines with a turbo..
Gut feeling tells me that these smaller motors will not last as long as the big old brutes.
I think :mrgreen:
I've been using and seeing the era of mechanical analysis on engineering since 2000. My feeling is that earlier before accurate analysis (FEM / dynamic analysis) engines had to build strong. The designer didn't have tools for optimizing. Today we have tools for optimization but what values designer type to software for stress analysis and lifetime analysis is still mostly manual math and educated/experience based guess. In theory and ideal world I believe these chains, for instance, works 300000 km but the world is not ideal. The stress of the engine is not ideal. Manufacturing is not ideal. Materials are not ideal. The designer has guidelines to make it small and light. As light and cheap as possible.
Do they take an account all the variables? They can't. Before it was not possible to optimize and therefore all were made strong enough and a little more.
-
Here you can see the damage. This is the worst valve, so not that catastrophic. Next cylinder head will be disassembled by a friend who has experience and grinding pasta/tools to fit valves.
(https://preview.ibb.co/gEu0Pp/photo_2018_09_14_22_20_52.jpg) (https://ibb.co/enJic9)
-
I've been using and seeing the era of mechanical analysis on engineering since 2000. My feeling is that earlier before accurate analysis (FEM / dynamic analysis) engines had to build strong. The designer didn't have tools for optimizing. Today we have tools for optimization but what values designer type to software for stress analysis and lifetime analysis is still mostly manual math and educated/experience based guess. In theory and ideal world I believe these chains, for instance, works 300000 km but the world is not ideal. The stress of the engine is not ideal. Manufacturing is not ideal. Materials are not ideal. The designer has guidelines to make it small and light. As light and cheap as possible.
Henri, I reconditioned the motor in my first car in 1966. ;); that car still runs today and still has its original timing chain.
With regard to materials, metallurgy available to us today has been developed exponentially with the aid of science, war , the racetrack and space travel.
During the 1980s- 90s wreckers bought smashed cars based upon the sale value of the motor. Today, they have containers full of motors that they cant sell and will probably use as boat anchors.
In the case of your jumped chain, is this an isolated incident? This is the first report here of premature chain failure in a petrol i30. There may be others, but usually a common fault will be discussed.
-
In the case of your jumped chain, is this an isolated incident? This is the first report here of premature chain failure in a petrol i30. There may be others, but usually a common fault will be discussed.
Official Hyundai repair shop didn't say that directly but I understood my car is not first. He said that "usually" they find timing error early enough and they can fix it by timing chain + tensioner replacement.
We have had a wide discussion about VW/Skoda/Audi timing belt issues in here. On one specific area belt wear out prematurely on many cars and after research, they found the reason to be one Highway which had some kind of new pavement in the test use. It released something which made the belt wear out.
That is very different issue but "area specific" issues may arise.
-
Ok thanks
-
Cylinder head is in place and valves are fitted. The guy who made valve grinding / fitting told that exhaust valves had signs of leaking already. This is below 120000km driven engine. I trust his experience because he has done tuning for several engines over 20 years of time. Kind of very advanced home mechanician with home modified lathe and milling machines for camshaft and other part fitting/modify. Btw now he had project Mazda RX7. 1.3 liter wankel is supposed to kick 300+hp after some tricks. Not many such is made earlier I guess.
Interesting workshop to visit.
(https://preview.ibb.co/hQvDgp/20180923_160219.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mP74nU)
(https://preview.ibb.co/egctgp/20180923_160025.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fMvPnU)
-
Possible leak due to bad valve timing.
Will be interested to hear your comments re performance/ power when it is running again . :goodjob2:
-
For me it's tricky to say about performance because wife drives this car. I don't have a feeling over long period of time how it should be. The difference in between last day performance and new performance should be clear. 0-100 kmh took 22 seconds :)
This step today felt tricky and is perhaps the most critical. By failing this step it is easy to go back to the starting point: timing chain and -mark lineup. I didnt see another mark at all first and when looked with mirror it was clear. Ia this something relates to led lightning, I dont know. Anyway, marks are there and I assume this lineup is correct:
(https://preview.ibb.co/gNoWcU/20180927_200156.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dX3KWp)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hB7rcU/20180927_195453.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cvkNj9)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mttKWp/20180927_195403.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nQUtrp)
-
Not familiar with exactly those marks, but looks correct. Assume crank mark is at TDC?
Would be good to check by turning motor over by hand with plugs out and watch cam positions as piston travels top to bottom etc. If it seems correct you are correct too. :mrgreen:
-
Not familiar with exactly those marks, but looks correct. Assume crank mark is at TDC?
Would be good to check by turning motor over by hand with plugs out and watch cam positions as piston travels top to bottom etc. If it seems correct you are correct too. :mrgreen:
Valves did shift exactly when piston was at top. I used 30cm thin rod on spark plug hole to monitor piston movement. Alignment marks are not that exact at all. When chain marks were on sprocket mark, were those main marks on sprockets "about" aligned to the cylinder head. The difference was less than a teeth but still it left some doubt. Those should be perfectly exactly aligned.
But now engine is assembled and tomorrow I add cooling liquid.
Final assembly after cylinder head was tightened took 7 hours nonstop from first timer like me. I tried to be very careful on all steps and especially with old sealing removal and new sealing installation. Side plate is sealed only with glue and oil wants to leak to everywhere on sealed surface. Next time I would clean all oil away right after disassembly and blow remainings out. Oil and silicon sealing is not compatible before silicone is dried.
Cables and connectors found places very easily. They were like tight fit and didnt reach anywhere else than correct place. At least I believe so before try to start the engine :)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dGoGjK/20180930_184417.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iXAkde)
-
If nothing went clunk then you are good. The marks on chain will be ok remember the cam timing is variable when running (VVT) good Luck. :goodjob2:
-
Engine started well and runs good. Water circulation is difficult as usual. Opening upper water hose a little helped slightly but still heat didnt reach the cabin. I let it cool now and continue next time. Approx 4 liters of coolant liquid is now added.
(https://preview.ibb.co/hi6Fye/20181001_204926.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eXwtjK)
-
Yes need to nurse air out & water in until thermostat opens. Try idling with cap off, watch temp and water level.
-
Yes need to nurse air out & water in until thermostat opens. Try idling with cap off, watch temp and water level.
Last time with Audi I borrowed thermal camera to get all air out. It required quite heavy and scary warmup eventhough had three air valves.
I tried today morning again and got water a little further to get warn air in cabin.
Looks promising.
-
:goodjob2: