i30 Owners Club
MODIFYING OR DETAILING YOUR I30 => INTERIOR => Topic started by: DCSY on August 14, 2013, 01:38:48
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Hey guys, I'm looking to apply some dynamat to my doors, but i cant seem to get the metal plate inside the door off...
I think the window is attached to the motor or something rather.
Has anyone had luck getting this off?
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You could try "dynamite" ..
But seriously, much the same as any other brand.. there are instructions on here somewhere. Unclip, unscrew as necessary the handgrip, door latch and tweeter covers ( if applicable) then carefully prise the lining from the door frame bottom, then sides. Then when all are undone lift the panel out of the window track. You will have to disconnect some electrical cables when you can reach in. Put some masking tape or similar around your prising tool though..
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I think DCSY is referring to the metal panel after you've got all that stuff off, Daz... :undecided:
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I had sound insulation installed on my original FD by a specialist. They fitted acoustic materials in the spare wheel well, under the boot floor, up the sides of the boot skin, in the front and rear foot wells and over the sills, the front bulkhead and under the bonnet (hood). In my presence they removed the drivers door card which revealed a jumble of door lock and window mechanisms plus the metal support "plate" that leaves hardly any of the outer door skin available for adding sound deadening mat. They claimed there was insufficient clearance between the mechanisms and the outer skin to get the matting in-between anyway. It looked such a formidable and labour intensive task to dismantle it all that I gave up on the idea.
It cost around £300 in total and my decibel meter showed a reduction in average cabin noise of 2 dB. I would not bother to have it done again.
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Hey guys, I'm looking to apply some dynamat to my doors, but i cant seem to get the metal plate inside the door off...
I think the window is attached to the motor or something rather.
Has anyone had luck getting this off?
Very, very carefully :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:
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I think DCSY is referring to the metal panel after you've got all that stuff off, Daz... :undecided:
Oops.. That was me trying to be really helpful just before I got ready for work.. more haste, less speed :-[
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It's the thought that counts, mate.... :goodjob:
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rusty nutz is on the money here, Ive tried doing it myself to no luck. I've ordered an elantra touring workshop manual, so I'll see how far i get with that
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Any luck with this in the end?
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I too would like to remove the inner metal door panel to lubricate the window mechanism as some of the windows are slow going up and down.
I removed all the bolts but the glass is still attached.
If you put the window most of the way down a crosshead screw becomes visible through the inspection/access hole but I was cautious of removing this screw.
Someone must have been "in there" before?
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I too would like to remove the inner metal door panel to lubricate the window mechanism as some of the windows are slow going up and down.
You may well find the cause to be grime in the window runners. Get some graphite powder and you'll soon see the difference:
:link: Problems with drivers window sticking! (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=18249.0)
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I have been "in there" many many times. It's quite a pain.
AlanHo if you read this there is plenty of room to stick matting to inside of outer skin.
The metal panel is actually the window reg. You were right to be cautious rcflyers, I have had to drill a few because they were rusted in place (only since moving from Tamworth to Coffs Harbour though. Everything rusts on the coast)
Release all wiring making sure you get the two or three on the inside. This is easily done by squeezing and push them through. All you can see of them is a point poking through.
Once the glass is loose you either remove it or hold it up somehow. I use a suction dent puller from supercheap on the out side and let it sit on belt mould.
At this point remove your inner door handles release the cables.
With the 7-8 10mm bolts removed you can "free" the reg panel. It has a foam like dust seal that sticks to the door so a bit of effort required. Make sure it is loose right the way around.
At the front and rear are two locating dowels with a step in them, these can be a big pain to get out, pull the panel away from the door and while moving panel up and down get the vertical track on the inside to come out of the cavity.
Push the wiring grommet at the rear through the reg so there is some slack inside the door.
Using a bit of force (careful here as it can release suddenly) pull the panel towards the door hinges while wiggling up and down. There are two or three plastic legs connecting the reg panel to the door lock actuator which is what you are releasing now and they can be tight.
Once you have panel out you can reach behind and unplug the door lock actuator.
Important to get the seal in this connector in the right position or reconnecting is near impossible and can bend terminal pins. Orange seal does NOT go all the way in connector housing but rests on the step about halfway down. (you'll see)
Pop the handle cable boots through their holes.
Now you have accessed the inner door and reg tracks.
Installation is fairly easy as long as you get the plastic legs lined up with the door lock actuator. Again takes some force to get in but you'll know because your locating pins will drop in with ease.
I think that covers it. Hope it helps.
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That is a very detailed, helpful and excellent post. :thanx: :hatoff:
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Graphite powder is a quicker solution :lol: and may actually fix it, but thanks for the detailed autopsy :goodjob:
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I have been "in there" many many times. It's quite a pain.
AlanHo if you read this there is plenty of room to stick matting to inside of outer skin.
The metal panel is actually the window reg. You were right to be cautious rcflyers, I have had to drill a few because they were rusted in place (only since moving from Tamworth to Coffs Harbour though. Everything rusts on the coast)
Release all wiring making sure you get the two or three on the inside. This is easily done by squeezing and push them through. All you can see of them is a point poking through.
Once the glass is loose you either remove it or hold it up somehow. I use a suction dent puller from supercheap on the out side and let it sit on belt mould.
At this point remove your inner door handles release the cables.
With the 7-8 10mm bolts removed you can "free" the reg panel. It has a foam like dust seal that sticks to the door so a bit of effort required. Make sure it is loose right the way around.
At the front and rear are two locating dowels with a step in them, these can be a big pain to get out, pull the panel away from the door and while moving panel up and down get the vertical track on the inside to come out of the cavity.
Push the wiring grommet at the rear through the reg so there is some slack inside the door.
Using a bit of force (careful here as it can release suddenly) pull the panel towards the door hinges while wiggling up and down. There are two or three plastic legs connecting the reg panel to the door lock actuator which is what you are releasing now and they can be tight.
Once you have panel out you can reach behind and unplug the door lock actuator.
Important to get the seal in this connector in the right position or reconnecting is near impossible and can bend terminal pins. Orange seal does NOT go all the way in connector housing but rests on the step about halfway down. (you'll see)
Pop the handle cable boots through their holes.
Now you have accessed the inner door and reg tracks.
Installation is fairly easy as long as you get the plastic legs lined up with the door lock actuator. Again takes some force to get in but you'll know because your locating pins will drop in with ease.
I think that covers it. Hope it helps.
Great description, thanks, Once I undo the crosshead screw will the glass come loose at that point?
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There are two ways hyundai secure the glass. I'm pretty sure the I30 is remove the screw and your fine. You said it's a cross head screw (Phillips head?) The other way sandwiches the glass between two tabs. That method you just loosen the bolt and it comes free.
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Hi everyone. First a big thank you to cruiserfield for his great instructions which allowed me to get the metal plate off and find the plastic broken window slide that had crippled the drivers window. Plate and trim back together neatly now with window propped shut, motor unplugged whilst I source the replacement part.
Most of this is his work but I've added a few extra pointers and clarification where I had to think a bit.
On the back of the metal plate are the two vertical window slides. You can already see the motor, on the other side it is connected to a central drum with suspension wires. Wires run over pulleys which insert in white plastic mounts which joins with a metal brace which holds the glass. No wonder this plastic bit breaks a lot.
Just to clarify you need to remove the glass from its two mounts if you want to get the metal panel off and you should do this at the start.
There are two inspection ports about 2/3rds of the way down of the metal panel with large black grommets. If you open these and move the glass, you will see two frames with 10mm cross head screws come into view that hold the glass. If you loosen these the glass will come out of the mount. Use a 10mm socket, rather than a screwdriver. They are tight and if the screwdriver slips you can damage something. When free you don’t need to remove the glass completely from the door, just hold it up with one of those suction devices as suggested. I had two for belt and braces for $20 from Bunnings. You can play at being Spiderman with them later so they will definitely come in.
Release all wiring. There was a mixture of two different types of plastic stays securing the wiring. The black ones with a tab I just cut the securing electricians tape and didn’t remove the fixings from the metal sheet. The round ones have a bit of a mushroom head on the other side that you need to squeeze together to get it back through the hole. There are three, two are obvious but the other comes through the metal back to front, at right side of the panel. If you look at the bottom of this one first you will work out how to get the others out. The big grommet top right with the wiring going through is for the door actuator (central locking mechanism). For the moment just take the grommet out. You can’t get to the connection until the panel is free but when you do you will have the entire wiring loom sitting nicely in the foot well
At this point remove your inner door handles and also release the cables just like a bike brake cable.
With the 7-8 10mm bolts removed you can "free" the reg panel. It has a foam like dust seal that sticks to the door so a bit of effort required. Make sure it is loose right the way around.
Towards the hinge and lock ends of the plate are two metal dowels arise from the back of the plate which point outwards and sit in key-shaped holes in the door. Pull the panel away from the door and move slightly up (where the keyhole is bigger) and out to release them.
Using a bit of force (careful here as it can release suddenly) pull the panel towards the door hinges while wiggling up and down. There are two or three plastic legs connecting the reg panel to the door lock actuator which is what you are releasing now and they can be tight.
Once you have panel out a bit you can reach behind and unplug the door lock actuator electrical connector. The release press point for the connection is on the outside of the body. I found this fiddly.
Important to get the seal in this connector in the right position or reconnecting is near impossible and can bend terminal pins. Orange seal does NOT go all the way in connector housing but rests on the step about halfway down. (you’ll see). Went together very easily for me and worked first time.
Pop the handle cable boots through their holes i.e. away from you.
Remove panel.
i have a few pictures which I will try to post.
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A couple of pictures.
The first is the back of the panel showing the basic layout.
(http://i.imgur.com/GRO5fHd.jpg)
Its from the right front door. White plastic on the left fits into the locking mechanism at the back whilst speaker on right is at the front. The two window slides are obvious. The left glass holding guide is missing, broken. Note the inspection ports to access the holding screws. You can also see the two small dowels sitting proud at the right and left edge of the plate.
A close up of the remaining plastic part, mount and slide.
(http://i.imgur.com/wa3wT4e.jpg)
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Great follow-up.
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:whsaid:
Adding information is nearly always a good thing around here.
BTW if you want, and some people probably would like them to be bigger, to have bigger photos in a post - you will need to use an external image hosting site such as... :link: Uploading photos using IMGUR.COM (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=20972.0) (apparently google spidering the site means the images don't expire like they normally would for imgur) or :link: bumpkins simple guide to Photobucket - No frills, does the job! (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=3803.0)
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Very pleased you found it useful and I hope it helps someone else. Hats off to cruiserfield, I am simply standing on the shoulder of giants......
I uploaded the original images to Imgur, although it is a bit different to the guide and I didn't see all the "embed" options. Anyway it says the pics are at this link:
:link: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet (http://imgur.com/a/clfB2)
If this is no good let me know and I will try something else.
Thanks again.
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Thanks, Bob :goodjob:
I've updated your post to include the imgur photos :)
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Brilliant Bob (and Tim) I've stickied the topic, so it doesn't get lost! :goodjob: