[nzenigma]

Is not better or worse. Is the same as before. No vibrations in the clutch, but my car is 110k km only. The only improvement was when i have removed the slack in the push rod. before..i couldint engage gears. That was at 40k km. Bad idea to buy a demonstrator car!!! Now, engagement point is at aprox 5..10mm from the floor.
I will post some pictures with the things i have done there.
All the best!
Eugen

Eugen, to point out the obvious, there is something wrong with your system. Especially when you say the problem existed at only 40K km. Your current kms are modest too.
It is probable that we are talking about several different problems in this topic.
 5-10mm off the floor would drive me nuts.
Working from the other direction, how much pedal travel do you have before you feel the clutch start to disengage?
In same direction is there a lot of pedal free play before you feel pressure from the hydraulic system?

[kamikazeeugen]

So....first, sorry for my english please! Whwn i took the car, was at 34k km. after driving a little, i said..something is wrong, the clutch shouldint engage soo low and i looked for obvious.
fluid loss..etc. Then i noticed that the free play was pretty big, 2 cm in tip of the pedal travel. I searched further and i found out that the plastic push rod weared out and the pin welded on the pedal had also  some wear. I have installed an 10mm needle bearing in the push rod (with some filing) and i drilled out the old welded pin in place of which, i installed  an 10mm screw with nut.
From that moment, I could change gears easy, but the engagement point, from nothing, is now at arround 5...10mm away from floor at the tip of the pedal. Is still low from my view but is running ok. Much better than before. I thought that..maibe, if i remove the damper, that engagement point will go up...but it didint, is the same as before. So, removing the damper, in my case at least, didint improve anything. I think that my car, as an ex demo car at dealer here, was abused. Might be a dodgy pressure plate, even the clutch is not slipping.
I will measure the engagement distances as the free play for others to compare. Might be useful. Not to blame something which is not.
Hope this helps!
Regards!
Eugen

[nzenigma]

6.5 year old FD i30 6 speed manual i30 and problems are starting to creep in. Every issue I have had, I google and up crops someone else with the issue on this forum (clutch shudder, broken power window).

I've noticed my clutch bite point is now starting only a few cm off the floor. ...

Hi @constipated ,  mate what are your current Kms ? You mention clutch shudder when did that happen and was it resolved?
Cheers G
PS your mechanic is probably a dinosaur who is still comparing the early 2000 models of Hyundai and Toyota..

[kamikazeeugen]

I will try to make an small video with my clutch pedal travel. For comparison. Imagine that before installing the bearing and changing the pedal pin. The gear engaging was pretty bad, Double clutch rev..etc.

[nzenigma]

@kamikazeeugen

Thanks for the reply, no problem with your English
I have not come across the wear on the pedal mechanism that you describe. Especially puzzling at such low kms.
Im assuming it was the original part. Also assuming you have bled all the air out.
I have a thought that your pressure plate has collapsed, the round steel spring that does the hard work can crack,but the clutch will still work, adjustment will be out of position. But usually the clutch can be made to slip.
Given that you have modified the rod, and are obviously handy with tools, why not lengthen the rod? if you can find an adjustable one at the junk yard, adapt it.
When you lengthen the rod , if there is a problem elsewhere, the hydraulic components wont respond correctly.

[constipated]

Hi @constipated ,  mate what are your current Kms ? You mention clutch shudder when did that happen and was it resolved?
Cheers G
PS your mechanic is probably a dinosaur who is still comparing the early 2000 models of Hyundai and Toyota..

I've only done 100,000 km.

The clutch shudder I refer to relates to the issue mentioned by many with loud vibration or humming in higher gears between 1800-2000 rpm in manual diesels. I raised up this issue before end of warranty. I know that people had the issue rectified if they had clutch and/or flywheel replaced. In my case Hyundai found a flywheel out of balance and replaced that. It did not fix the problem and they wouldn't replace the clutch under warranty so I've had to put up with it.

So on top of that I've had the current issue and a broken driver's side power window which cost $400 to fix.

So,  far from my mechanic being a dinosaur, I'm the one facing all the issues from my Hyundai. I certainly wouldn't say it's been my most reliable car.

[nzenigma]

Hi @constipated ,  mate what are your current Kms ? You mention clutch shudder when did that happen and was it resolved?
Cheers G
PS your mechanic is probably a dinosaur who is still comparing the early 2000 models of Hyundai and Toyota..

I've only done 100,000 km.

The clutch shudder I refer to relates to the issue mentioned by many with loud vibration or humming in higher gears between 1800-2000 rpm in manual diesels. I raised up this issue before end of warranty. I know that people had the issue rectified if they had clutch and/or flywheel replaced. In my case Hyundai found a flywheel out of balance and replaced that. It did not fix the problem and they wouldn't replace the clutch under warranty so I've had to put up with it.

So on top of that I've had the current issue and a broken driver's side power window which cost $400 to fix.

So,  far from my mechanic being a dinosaur, I'm the one facing all the issues from my Hyundai. I certainly wouldn't say it's been my most reliable car.

Thanks for the reply, 60,000 miles  (100K Km) would not have me looking at a worn clutch unless the driver had a bad habit or two.
The vibration discussion was inconclusive ( as you demonstrate) . I have a feeling that it is a harmonic vibration possibly through the exhaust system. But its a guess.
The window issue is reasonably common, but not a big deal to fix. The plastic clips cost $20 and they take about half an hour to fit. Yep, $400 at a dealership would be fair.

Regarding unreliability- disagree without reserve.

Also for the interest of @Dazzler  , @tw2005  etc
Two weeks ago, I was approached by a recovery truck operator who picks up breakdowns, exclusively for RACQ. That's an equivalent organisation to NRMA and AA etc.
He wanted to buy an i30 diesel (FD or GD) for his wife, because they are the only car that he never has to recover.

[Dazzler]

I could be wrong, but my understanding is a lot of components are common between different brands of motor vehicle. For example the Turbo (made by a reputable outside manufacturer) Garrett. They also use a lot of quality bosch components.

They seem to be pretty well screwed together too. We don't get a lot of feedback on here about things coming apart or falling off.

There is the odd issue that crops up, but I have to agree with Gary, after owning 4 of them and being involved in this site for around 10 years, they are inherently a reliable vehicle. 

[nzenigma]

@kamikazeeugen

Thanks for the reply, no problem with your English
I have not come across the wear on the pedal mechanism that you describe. Especially puzzling at such low kms.
Im assuming it was the original part. Also assuming you have bled all the air out.
I have a thought that your pressure plate has collapsed, the round steel spring that does the hard work can crack,but the clutch will still work, adjustment will be out of position. But usually the clutch can be made to slip.
Given that you have modified the rod, and are obviously handy with tools, why not lengthen the rod? if you can find an adjustable one at the junk yard, adapt it.
When you lengthen the rod , if there is a problem elsewhere, the hydraulic components wont respond correctly.

Hey sorry I was  responding to another person and did  a speed read of your reply. I now see that you have been practical and made the shaft adjustable. I have also looked at the original Hyundai system on a car in my workshop. Has done 82K km. The start of hydraulic pressure starts about 1.5 cm from pedal downward action and clutch action is over about another 3 cm.  Leaves about  5cm to floor. Sorry , lots of "about " there, but  if your slave moves when the  master does , I think the hydraulic system is ok. I would therefore look at the clutch pressure plate.

[constipated]

I would therefore look at the clutch pressure plate.

By that do you mean worn clutch or something wrong with the clutch pressure plate.

I'm a bit unsure now what to ask the mechanic to check. 1. No air in system 2. Slave cylinder and pin 3. Master cylinder.

Can he assess the clutch pressure plate without taking the whole clutch and gearbox out?

Should I get him to try to remove the master cylinder damper first?

As was mentioned earlier shouldn't a worn clutch actually cause the bite point to go higher?

[kamikazeeugen]

Hi! Sooo, my pushrod is not adjustable. Is from plastic. I have just put an needle bearing in the plastic rod and, hope you see in the pictures, in place of the welded pin i have pit an bolt.

[kamikazeeugen]

The master cylinder is also new but the pushrod is the old one i allready added the bearing.
eliminating the slack caused by that wear in the rod and pin, made my car better, i can change gears nice, in reverse goes ok no crunching, but, i wanted a little more. not possible. The free movement of the pedal between top and starting to actualy moove the slave is abbout 1 cm at the top of the pedal. So, there is ok.
I think, in my case at least, the car was abused, they stayed with the foot on the clutch long time. (beginners) Might be that my pressure plate is bad. Does not slip, but maybe is not really disengaging fully.
About reliability, I think the car is ok. Since i gotit, I have cleaned and greased the rear calipers at the handbrake mechanism, (the water gets in through the seal) and this mod at the clutch.
Ahh, changed the glow plugs twice and cleaned the intake manifold and egr. Actualy, the egr and intake was pretty nice at 65kkm. Rest....no problems, the car runs nice.
Are these minor things which are a little annoying. But compared with my older mark4 opel astra, is better.
I done a small video with the engagement point of the clutch now but is too big to attach i think.
Hope you got the ideea.
Regards!
Eugen

[nzenigma]

Thanks Eugen, Understand what you have done , nice work. 
Not sure about the premature wear. While Im a bit suspicious of the condition of the pressure plate could I suggest that it has always been faulty and at early KMs it required extra hydraulic force to operate it. Admit Im 'clutching' at straws here.

Years ago, the local Holden (General Motors) vehicles had their clutch pedals adjusted so that the clutch would bite just as the pedal came off the floor. Every time my work van came back from a service I would have to re-adjust the pedal so that the bite was higher and therefore you had less pedal travel and gear change was more rapid and comfortable.

[nzenigma]

I would therefore look at the clutch pressure plate.

By that do you mean worn clutch or something wrong with the clutch pressure plate.

I'm a bit unsure now what to ask the mechanic to check. 1. No air in system 2. Slave cylinder and pin 3. Master cylinder.

Can he assess the clutch pressure plate without taking the whole clutch and gearbox out?

Should I get him to try to remove the master cylinder damper first?

As was mentioned earlier shouldn't a worn clutch actually cause the bite point to go higher?

Checking the hydraulic system and air bleed will be standard procedure, given the U tube success story , I would point him toward the damper, he may not be aware of that. The plug appeared to be a quick method to check.

An initial clutch test comes down to the mechanic's experience. To be conclusive, it needs to come out.

Have a look at pictures of a typical clutch set up, note the PRESSURE plate. You will see steel fingers at the back of it, they are attached to a spring mechanism that forces the driven clutch plate down onto the flywheel. As the clutch DRIVEN (friction) plate wears , these fingers are under less pressure and they will rise up and get closer to the thrust bearing.
Therefore , in relation to pedal action, your contact point will get higher, but depending upon condition of the friction plate, bite may be lower.

[constipated]

Update:

new video of same issue in an FD i30 diesel: Hyundai i30, Low Clutch, Gears Grinding - FIXED - YouTube

Again removing the damper appears to help.

My car went to the mechanic today. Pointed him to the videos and he stated that his preference was to replace the damper rather than remove it, or the whole master cylinder but when he checked, the damper didn't come as a separate part and the master cylinder was >$400.

So went ahead with removing the damper only and replacing with oil sump plug.

Verdict: much improved. At least a few extra cm before the clutch bites. Can feel more vibration and pulsation through the clutch pedal but I can live with that. Hope this temporary fix lasts.

Add low clutch bite point to the common problems affecting FD i30 diesels.

[Dazzler]

Thanks for the update Con, what was the cost? 

[constipated]

Thanks for the update Con, what was the cost? 

The plug which replaces the damper is just an oil sump plug which is cheap. The cost was mostly labour doing the diagnostics, of getting the master cylinder out, putting it back in and refilling new clutch fluid and bleeding the system. Probably $150 or so. I had a service and brake pad replacement as well so it's difficult to say exactly how much to look just at the clutch system.

[Dazzler]

Thanks for the update Con, what was the cost? 

The plug which replaces the damper is just an oil sump plug which is cheap. The cost was mostly labour doing the diagnostics, of getting the master cylinder out, putting it back in and refilling new clutch fluid and bleeding the system. Probably $150 or so. I had a service and brake pad replacement as well so it's difficult to say exactly how much to look just at the clutch system.

Cheers, that's not bad considering it made a noticeable difference. 

[tw2005]

Update:

new video of same issue in an FD i30 diesel: Hyundai i30, Low Clutch, Gears Grinding - FIXED - YouTube

Again removing the damper appears to help.

My car went to the mechanic today. Pointed him to the videos and he stated that his preference was to replace the damper rather than remove it, or the whole master cylinder but when he checked, the damper didn't come as a separate part and the master cylinder was >$400.

So went ahead with removing the damper only and replacing with oil sump plug.

Verdict: much improved. At least a few extra cm before the clutch bites. Can feel more vibration and pulsation through the clutch pedal but I can live with that. Hope this temporary fix lasts.

Add low clutch bite point to the common problems affecting FD i30 diesels.

Right, so it's confirmed, no damper available separate? That's disappointing.

Or is it this.

416901H900  (correction) REGULATOR ASSY - CLUTCH or       VALVE-DAMPER CLUTCH CONTROL
Not available from Koraps , RHD version

What I'm yet to find is the master cylinder part number

[nzenigma]

Update:
Add low clutch bite point to the common problems affecting FD i30 diesels.

Curious! The removal of the damper solved your problem, but the damper is also on the petrol vehicle,  no complaints so far.

@tw2005 you are our main man . Your clutch is low. Check for air in the line, if no improvement after a bleed , get a sump plug and report back immediately. 

[tw2005]

Update:
Add low clutch bite point to the common problems affecting FD i30 diesels.

Curious! The removal of the damper solved your problem, but the damper is also on the petrol vehicle,  no complaints so far.

@tw2005 you are our main man . Your clutch is low. Check for air in the line, if no improvement after a bleed , get a sump plug and report back immediately. 

Easy for you to say. Any suggestions for a cheap supplier of said plug? Did not like the price of the Supercheap ones with the pretty green O-ring. Got other things on my mind like moving

[nzenigma]

Understand, been there too. 
All the best. G

[sundiz]

Here is a pic from EPC. It's from 1.6 crdi, but I would assume same damper might work with petrol. At least here it gives some sort of part number (41690-2H100).

[kamikazeeugen]

Update:

new video of same issue in an FD i30 diesel: Hyundai i30, Low Clutch, Gears Grinding - FIXED - YouTube

Again removing the damper appears to help.

My car went to the mechanic today. Pointed him to the videos and he stated that his preference was to replace the damper rather than remove it, or the whole master cylinder but when he checked, the damper didn't come as a separate part and the master cylinder was >$400.

So went ahead with removing the damper only and replacing with oil sump plug.

Verdict: much improved. At least a few extra cm before the clutch bites. Can feel more vibration and pulsation through the clutch pedal but I can live with that. Hope this temporary fix lasts.

Add low clutch bite point to the common problems affecting FD i30 diesels.

Hmmm! 400 dollars? i bought mine, oem part with aprox 80 dollars. Cant be soo expensive...

[kamikazeeugen]

Here is a pic from EPC. It's from 1.6 crdi, but I would assume same damper might work with petrol. At least here it gives some sort of part number (41690-2H100).

The damper is different from FD to GD. Mine is inline with the master cylinder not at 90 degrees like in FD. But the damper himself, is the same.

[tw2005]

Here is a pic from EPC. It's from 1.6 crdi, but I would assume same damper might work with petrol. At least here it gives some sort of part number (41690-2H100).

that's even more interesting. Do you have access to the EPC? Is that a live version or something you have a copy of?

Also interesting to note the part number quoted is different to my source too?

[tw2005]

So you made me go back and check something, EPC quotes 416902H900 for RHD (Austrailia) not sure where I dug the other number now but Koraps don't show that part so that suggests it's unique to RHD as they are LHD in Korea.

And it quotes your version for LHD

So LHD 1600 CRDi 416901H000, 416902H100
RHD 1600 CRDi 416901H900
2000 CRDi  416901H000, 416902E300, 416902H100

also sharing the various parts too, petrol versions

[sundiz]

Yeah that is from FD. I thought we were talking about FD 

It might be the difference with lhd and rhd. I did not thought they would use different parts in those.

Yeah I have EPC for hyundai (older models). Bought it from emanualonline few years ago. Its a copy. Virtual image which works with VMwareplayer, like the GDS i have.

[tw2005]

Yeah that is from FD. I thought we were talking about FD 

Yeah I have EPC for hyundai (older models). Bought it from emanualonline few years ago. Its a copy. Virtual image which works with VMwareplayer, like the GDS i have.

Ill PM my vin, can you see if that works please

[sundiz]

Heres with tw2005s VIN.
It sure has different part number (41690-2H900).