[Martin32]

Hi. I just got my car 2 months ago, and last Thursday it wouldn't start. I don't have a lot of experience on fixing cars, but I thought this was a good time to learn something.

When I enter my car and put the key in, the dashboard lights up. everything seems fine. As soon as I am turning the key to start the motor, I hear one single clicking sound and the lights on the dashboard turns off. The motor does not crank at all. The thing I find strange is that even though I put the key back in, the dashboard won't light up right away. If I wait some seconds and put in the key, the lights come back on. If I try starting again the same thing happens. After charging the battery, the lights were on in the dashboard once after I tried to start, but the second time they went away and it stayed dead for about 15 seconds. I can't explain why this happens. I tried load testing the battery. It was able to deliver 390A for 5 seconds (which were the longest time I tried since the motor doesn't respond at all) without dropping below 9,6V. However, when I tried draining the battery for 400A, the voltage dropped below 9,6V instantly. I thought that if the battery was the problem, I should be able to jump-start the car. Same problem still... Could it be the starter solenoid? Is it a mechanical problem? However, I find it strange that the lights stay off for several seconds after I try to start. Has anyone experienced something like this? Does anyone have some tips? Sorry for the wall of text. Just trying to get you as much information as possible here 

The car is using gasoline.

[eye30]

Sorry to hear of your issue but Just a few questions to aid...


 How old is the car?

Any warranty you can call on?

Do you have breakdown cover to get you started/to garage?

Do you have enough fuel in tank?

Was it runing ok prior to this happening?


Re battery...... how old is it?

Does it make clicking noise when trying to start?

Are battery terminals on tight?

[CraigB]

Only 9.6 volts showing up plus the slow illumination of dash lights after attempting to start would suggest the battery is kaput...

[Dazzler]

@eye30  I know you are on TT so can't see Martin's signature Lester. It is a 2010 CW so no new car warranty.

@CraigB Martin has tried to jump start the car though. 

  Martin,

I was thinking along the same lines as Craig with a sub par battery, but can't explain the fact you can't jump start it unless the leads weren't connected properly. 

I would still tend to put my money on the battery at odds of 2:1 on!

[The Gonz]

I would eliminate the battery even during the jump start, meaning it may be presenting a partial short circuit. Try it all with a new battery, so that could mean just getting a battery shop checking it all as part of selling you one. Short of that (I'm a cunny punt, aint I?) disconnect your battery when jump starting from a donor car, but then shut down after making your measurements before disconnecting the jumpers.

[nzenigma]

It does 'sound' like a dud battery. However, if you have corrosion at the terminals (between inside of terminal and battery post) you will find the battery will not work. eg same symptoms.

Jumping depends on how well you have attached the leads. If you are using light jumper leads, they may be losing voltage.

 If something like a solenoid is drawing enough current to pull the volts to 9.6V you will see and smell smoke.

Do you have enough fuel in tank?

This question obviously pre-empts the advice about smoke and heat. However, we still feel your car and home are relatively safe. 

Verdict from 6000km away =Battery

[Martin32]

Thanks for the replies. It seems most of you think its the battery. I hope you are right! I can try to disconnect the terminals and try to jump start it again without the battery in the circuit. However, if that doesn't work then the battery can't be the source, right? Could there be a short circuit in the starter motor? Or maybe the cables to the battery terminals is bad? I haven't checked the inside of the connection for corrosion, but I would guess that if that was the problem the jump starting should work? Do you have any tip for checking the cables? The battery can deliver 390A, shouldn't that be enough to start the starting motor?

[CraigB]

I would have thought 410 to 450 cca would be the cranking requirement for your vehicle though as long as the battery can hold minimum 12.8volts (ideally 13.2v) it should be fine, of course there is probability of an issue elsewhere as well but you need a good battery to begin with.

[nzenigma]

Or maybe the cables to the battery terminals is bad? I haven't checked the inside of the connection for corrosion,

Martin we can only offer advice based upon our experience.

At some stage you have to move on from 'but what if ?' and start getting your hands dirty.

As I mentioned, any short circuit that is drawing such a high current will be obvious, there will be smoke, sparks, crackling sound.

[Martin32]

Yea, I'll try to jump start it without my battery connected.

[Dazzler]

Yea, I'll try to jump start it without my battery connected.

I guess this is obvious, but the source you are jump starting from needs to be strong and healthy as well. 

[Martin32]

Thats true

[eye30]

Any chance you can "borrow" the good battery and fit in your car.

That way no need to jump start and battery already connected.

If all is well then current, no pun intended, battery is at fault

[Martin32]

Yea, that could be done. But wouldn't jump start it without my battery do the same work? Or are you thinking the contact point could be too small?

[Dazzler]

Yea, that could be done. But wouldn't jump start it without my battery do the same work? Or are you thinking the contact point could be too small?

I guess Lester is thinking it is 99% likely to be the Battery and at least you know a new one is 100% efficient. If it works then tighten brackets and you are on your way.

[nzenigma]

... Or are you thinking the contact point could be too small?

[eye30]

Yea, that could be done. But wouldn't jump start it without my battery do the same work? Or are you thinking the contact point could be too small?

You need to have a battery connected otherwise when you remove jump leads car will stop as current broke.

[nzenigma]

Yea, that could be done. But wouldn't jump start it without my battery do the same work? Or are you thinking the contact point could be too small?

You need to have a battery connected otherwise when you remove jump leads car will stop as current broke.

The vast audience will note that we have now moved to a new conundrum.   

[Martin32]

Yes, but just to check if the battery is the source of error. Even though it seems to me it must be the start motor

[nzenigma]

Yes, but just to check if the battery is the source of error. Even though it seems to me it must be the start motor

Excellent comment Martin,
 no doubt you have made huge advances within your research during the past 12 days.
Could we have your final verdict please?
 

[Martin32]

Hehe. Sorry, I've been busy at work.

I took out my starting motor and tried connecting it to the battery to see if it turned. It did, so either the starting motor has been alright all along, or the rough treatment it has been given lately has knocked the rotor loose. I guess the next thing will be measuring the voltage of the cables connected to the starting motor when the car battery is connected.

[nzenigma]

Its a journey of discovery.   

the rough treatment has knocked the rotor loose.

Clever, the Lester Drop Test ( stage 1) 

Suggest Lester Drop Test ( stage 2)