[The Gonz]

Hazards do precisely what the blinkers do. All as expected with the DRLs off but the DRLs do the blinking without the ambers when headlights or ignition are off.

[The Gonz]

I just finished testing the interaction between the white and amber LEDs by manually switching the relay for longer than the blinker period and the amber does indeed appear 1/2 second after the white is switched off. My new strategy is to pursue the less ‘lazy’ way and locate a steady voltage powering the blinker relay, which would allow me to create the perfect white-black-amber-black-amber-black-white behaviour. How should I be getting at the relay?

[The Gonz]

Just to clarify, I’m after advice on where to find the most convenient point that gets switched (steady) on when the turn signal or hazards are activated. I’ve already located the blinker fuse in the cabin fuse box but this is always on with ignition.
Thanks in advance for any clues.

[The Gonz]

Never mind, Google sent me to Phil’s Onedrive file on flasher unit replacement.
 

[The Gonz]

 
The drama continues.

Removal of driver’s crash pad (2 screws visible) and driver’s crash pad reinforcing panel (5 bolts) is required to get to even see the flasher unit!

Why couldn’t this be accessible through a panel door like the fuse box, or a hole like the OBD?

Eventually I’ll gather the courage to yank the bits out (with more space and direct light) and replace the flasher with an electronic one that won’t hyper flash anyway, so I can dispense with the 6 Ohm load resistors as well.

[The Gonz]

OK, so here's what my relays are currently doing on the left.
On the right is what I aim to do once I swap out the OEM relay for an electronic "don't care about load resistance" type. That will allow me to derive proper energy efficiency by eliminating the so-called CANBUS compliant or 'anti hyperflash' load resistors.

Any tips on how to safely remove panels to get to the flasher gratefully accepted.

[Dazzler]

You know what they say about talking to yourself... 

Sorry I can't offer any advice. I'm useless with car electronics even though my Brother and Nephew are both very experienced Auto Electricians! 

[The Gonz]

\\\ SOLVED///

... I think.

I just ordered a couple of 555 timer based time delay relays  ($1.50 each) which will hold the white LEDs off long enough after each flash to stay off and let the ambers come on. The result should be that the whites won’t come back on until 1/2 second after the last amber flash.

[Dazzler]

Keep us posted mate..Although I'm sure you will!

This thread is a bit one sided but I'm interested to see the end result.

[mickd]

\\\ SOLVED///

... I think.

I just ordered a couple of 555 timer based time delay relays  ($1.50 each) which will hold the white LEDs off long enough after each flash to stay off and let the ambers come on. The result should be that the whites won’t come back on until 1/2 second after the last amber flash.

555's, simple and reliable even at $1:50 of today's money.

[The Gonz]

The simplest approach was going to be a 4700uF capacitor with a 10K resistor to create a hard wired 1/2 S delay. I have the resistors but sourcing the caps would be more expensive than the timer relays, which are programmable from 0 to 10 S for both on and off delays!

[The Gonz]

Here's my schematic for adding the timer relays when they arrive:

[tw2005]

Filed a patent yet ?

[The Gonz]

Hehe, I published my UHF remote central locking kit but got a couple of dozen customers instead of anyone building it. Not sure how big the market will be but I can certainly undercut any of those fancy DRL harnesses on eBay. I’ll wait until I have it working first.

[tw2005]

Plug and play,with harnesses , pcb print componentry  and housing would be lovely

[The Gonz]

Putting it all on a single circuit board would be done better with board mounted relays, since they form the logic all by themselves. A bit of eBay trawling and I might find suitable components for a marketable V2.0.

With the current BoM running at $21.50 including the LED modules, I’m optimistic about my V1.0 and am considering adjusting the delay to 3 or so seconds to cover cranking.

[tw2005]

Putting it all on a single circuit board would be done better with board mounted relays, since they form the logic all by themselves. A bit of eBay trawling and I might find suitable components for a marketable V2.0.

With the current BoM running at $21.50 including the LED modules, I’m optimistic about my V1.0 and am considering adjusting the delay to 3 or so seconds to cover cranking.