[baroudeur]

On a recent service the dealer said that a 'service mod' had been done to "prevent water running down the harness into the headlamp". It seems that the wiring harness behind the headlamps was modified with a new section being fitted between headlamp and first connector block with a length of harness about 20mm thick and 300mm long left dangling (actually it's laid behind the fuse block on the left side).
I seem to recall seeing something which  referred to  a resistor to prevent headlamp bulbs blowing but I cannot find it.

Anyone got any information please as to exactly what was involved in this specific modification?

[Phil №❶]

This particular mod lengthens the wire, so water doesn't run to the connector. The earthing problem is a separate issue.

[The Gonz]

Never heard of this mod. Is it for the FD?

[baroudeur]

This particular mod lengthens the wire, so water doesn't run to the connector. The earthing problem is a separate issue.

That's what the dealer said. However, the short length of new  harness seems no longer than the original and I cannot see how water would get anywhere near it but has this 300mm length of harness tube hanging down on the right and tucked along the side of the fuse box on the left..  Before I open it to have a look I wondered if anyone knew what it was.

I did see a post about an earthing mod which showed a black box adjacent to the headlamp but this is not what I have got

[baroudeur]

Never heard of this mod. Is it for the FD?

Yes, FD diesel 2011 MY.

[elantraelite]

Is there actually a fix for the FD head lights always blowing on the diesel? I'm on to my 3rd set in 12months!

[Dazzler]

Is there actually a fix for the FD head lights always blowing on the diesel? I'm on to my 3rd set in 12months!

Sort of.. A few have mentioned having an earthing mod done, but nothing official as far as I know. 

[Surferdude]

Is there actually a fix for the FD head lights always blowing on the diesel? I'm on to my 3rd set in 12months!

Sort of.. A few have mentioned having an earthing mod done, but nothing official as far as I know. 

Have you got auto headlights and do you leave them on all the time?

[Lorian]

Is there actually a fix for the FD head lights always blowing on the diesel? I'm on to my 3rd set in 12months!

Sort of.. A few have mentioned having an earthing mod done, but nothing official as far as I know. 

TSB HFE12-92-C140-FD

Regards

[Dazzler]

Is there actually a fix for the FD head lights always blowing on the diesel? I'm on to my 3rd set in 12months!

Sort of.. A few have mentioned having an earthing mod done, but nothing official as far as I know. 

TSB HFE12-92-C140-FD

Regards

Thanks "Lorian" nice to see you still visiting after 5 years as a Member... 

[Just Rick]

On a recent service the dealer said that a 'service mod' had been done to "prevent water running down the harness into the headlamp". It seems that the wiring harness behind the headlamps was modified with a new section being fitted between headlamp and first connector block with a length of harness about 20mm thick and 300mm long left dangling (actually it's laid behind the fuse block on the left side).
I seem to recall seeing something which  referred to  a resistor to prevent headlamp bulbs blowing but I cannot find it.

Anyone got any information please as to exactly what was involved in this specific modification?

Yes I remeber Readin the thread about the resister and I can't find it either,I have just had a run of blown bulbs again in both our cars

[Phil №❶]

Lengthening the wiring loom to stop water ingress is not related to lamp burnout at all. A resistor is not the fix for lamp failures either.

[Just Rick]

Lengthening the wiring loom to stop water ingress is not related to lamp burnout at all. A resistor is not the fix for lamp failures either.

What about a power surge box,I think I still have one in the shed somewhere

[Phil №❶]

There's a large discussion about what specifically causes the filament's to burn out, it's a bit beyond me so I can't advise on surge protection however, this is my thinking.

If the filaments are given time to go from cold to white hot, the thermal shock will be lessened and they can be over driven by volts, to a certain degree. So I'm considering a soft on mod. We blew our 1st in Lila the other day so watching and waiting to see if it is going to become regular or not.

[baroudeur]

Lengthening the wiring loom to stop water ingress is not related to lamp burnout at all. A resistor is not the fix for lamp failures either.

When my dealer installed the fix to stop water entering the headlamp (that's what he said the fix was for) it included a length of closed end corrugated tubing into which the headlamp harness disappeared.  On the right hand side it lies vertically below the headlight and on the left it is tucked horizontally behind the fuse/relay box. This section is installed between the original  headlamp wiring connectors.

It would seem that this tube doesn't have anything to do with water entering the headlamps so what is inside?  There is no point in lengthening the harness unless it includes some sort of module and serves some purpose.  Perhaps I should open it up and look?

On my car the  earth connections from the fuse/relay box had a light  verdigris  coating  from new.  I cleaned and greased them to prevent any repeat.  Strangely, my dealer insists on using copious amounts of copper grease on my battery terminals despite my notice  on the battery saying "do not grease" but ignored what must be a common fault with the earth connection..

Edit:  My i30 is now three years old and still with the original bulbs including the modified foglamps as DRLs.  Over fifty years motoring and thirty plus vehicles I have never changed a headlamp bulb.


.

[eye30]

My old i30 now nearly 7 yo in sept still has all the factory fitted bulbs.  No new bulbs have been fitted

[Phil №❶]

Lengthening the wiring loom to stop water ingress is not related to lamp burnout at all. A resistor is not the fix for lamp failures either.

When my dealer installed the fix to stop water entering the headlamp (that's what he said the fix was for) it included a length of closed end corrugated tubing into which the headlamp harness disappeared.  On the right hand side it lies vertically below the headlight and on the left it is tucked horizontally behind the fuse/relay box. This section is installed between the original  headlamp wiring connectors.

It would seem that this tube doesn't have anything to do with water entering the headlamps so what is inside?  There is no point in lengthening the harness unless it includes some sort of module and serves some purpose.  Perhaps I should open it up and look?

On my car the  earth connections from the fuse/relay box had a light  verdigris  coating  from new.  I cleaned and greased them to prevent any repeat.  Strangely, my dealer insists on using copious amounts of copper grease on my battery terminals despite my notice  on the battery saying "do not grease" but ignored what must be a common fault with the earth connection..

Edit:  My i30 is now three years old and still with the original bulbs including the modified foglamps as DRLs.  Over fifty years motoring and thirty plus vehicles I have never changed a headlamp bulb.


.

I too have driven many years and never replaced a bulb in any of MY cars.

Rather than compromise your wiring, perhaps an explanation from the dealer, about what's inside the corrugated section. My understanding about water ingress is that there must be a circumstance where water gravitates down the wiring. Whether this is from condensation, spray or some other event I'm not sure.

A resistor will reduce the current flow through the wire. Think of a herd of sheep all trying to get through a single sheep gate, there is resistance and that in turn causes heat which is definitely not what you want in wiring. As well, the resistor will continuously resist the current and then you would find that your lights are dim which is also not what we want at all.

[baroudeur]

Rather than compromise your wiring, perhaps an explanation from the dealer, about what's inside the corrugated section.

The dealer was reluctant (or unable) to explain what the mod was after I has seen the extra wiring and asked about it.

I have now opened the tube and there is nothing to compromise as I have wrapped it again exactly as it was.....it is merely a length of wire doubled back and forth 6 or 8 times. There are no devices in the conduit tube.

So it is a resistance wire.  If not why fold several lengths of wire into a conduit tube?

[Phil №❶]

Yes, it sounds like the resistance heat will be safely dissipated throughout the full length of the wire. I presume it will work ok. You might want to see how warm it gets after an hour of night driving.

[baroudeur]

Yes, it sounds like the resistance heat will be safely dissipated throughout the full length of the wire. I presume it will work ok. You might want to see how warm it gets after an hour of night driving.

But wrapping and encasing tightly in conduit  goes against all good practice. 

PS:  I am still puzzled by the lack of comment by others who must have has this mod done as a service fix.

[Phil №❶]

If it's a resistance wire, I would expect that the resistance will be minimal, so there shouldn't be any appreciable heat build up at all, so encasing is a neat and professional way to store the length of wire needed.