[sarah_jayne1988]

Hey everyone! 

Just wondering if anyone has ever experienced this issue?

Had my spark plugs replaced
Had my fuel filter replaced
Had my keys checked and the coding is spot on.
Air con belt replaced.

Put key in ignition and heat the fuel pump start, try to turn it over and it won’t crank. I have posted the Video to the Facebook page but it won’t allow me to post here. 
Link below

https://www.facebook.com/groups/i30ownersclub/permalink/10156078876620353/

Numerous visits to mechanic, locksmith and auto electrician and they say it’s my key reader or something with the fuel injector.
$1500 spent on trying to find out and my car is getting worse.

Just want a straight answer.  Any help appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tw2005]

Full marks on the video, if the engine light is staying on there is a fault code present in my opinion. Surely that is the place to start.

has the engine light been on before and have they read the codes? What did they find.

Stabbing in the dark, I think we have read of faulty crank sensors. the initial strat up which was really rough and barely running certainly sounded like it was running on a default parameter in the ECU not actual data. In  other words I'm thinking along the lines of timing issue and the crank sensor is imperative for that along with others like the camshaft sensor as well.

Best guess.

[sarah_jayne1988]

Full marks on the video, if the engine light is staying on there is a fault code present in my opinion. Surely that is the place to start.

has the engine light been on before and have they read the codes? What did they find.

Stabbing in the dark, I think we have read of faulty crank sensors. the initial strat up which was really rough and barely running certainly sounded like it was running on a default parameter in the ECU not actual data. In  other words I'm thinking along the lines of timing issue and the crank sensor is imperative for that along with others like the camshaft sensor as well.

Best guess.

Cheers!
The engine light is staying on but only just started staying on.  I cannot believe how rough it was to start in that video, it hasn’t done that before.
They did put a diagnostic machine on it with the check engine and just dismissed it as an “immobiliser” issue that’s completely out of their hands. 
I really don’t want to be charged by Hyundai dealership $150 p/h for 6 hours work and then have to pay for more parts on top.  Feels like I’ve been jibbed enough at this point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tw2005]

Full marks on the video, if the engine light is staying on there is a fault code present in my opinion. Surely that is the place to start.

has the engine light been on before and have they read the codes? What did they find.

Stabbing in the dark, I think we have read of faulty crank sensors. the initial strat up which was really rough and barely running certainly sounded like it was running on a default parameter in the ECU not actual data. In  other words I'm thinking along the lines of timing issue and the crank sensor is imperative for that along with others like the camshaft sensor as well.

Best guess.

Cheers!
The engine light is staying on but only just started staying on.  I cannot believe how rough it was to start in that video, it hasn’t done that before.
They did put a diagnostic machine on it with the check engine and just dismissed it as an “immobiliser” issue that’s completely out of their hands. 
I really don’t want to be charged by Hyundai dealership $150 p/h for 6 hours work and then have to pay for more parts on top.  Feels like I’ve been jibbed enough at this point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree, so they read the code but you don't have it or was it noted anywhere? So it's just any mechanic that's done this? Hyundai have not looked yet?

If you don't know anyone with an OBD2 reader and you're near Ipswich I have a bluetooth interface I can use my phone to pull the code at least. That's what I'd do first . If it was immobo I'd expect that key symbol to be blinking indicating a comms issue. @nzenigma is likely to have some petrol engine experience

[sarah_jayne1988]

I’m in Logan Reserve.  It just won’t turn over today so I’m unsure what to do at this point in time. 

Everyone has plugged a computer into it and read error codes but no one has relayed what the code actually was and just stated issue with immobiliser.  I’m beginning to think it’s more than that as the start up is rough as guts, almost like a bunny hop. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nzenigma]

Hi Sarah-Jayne.
Like tw2005, I can only give you best guess from a distance. Similar to him, I have to question what was the code they dismissed?  That would be the starting point.
There is no evidence that the immobiliser or key code or key reader are malfunctioning. The Hyundai mechanic who sent you off in that direction is a dick.
If your car was immobilised it just would not fire, even roughly as it is.
A vehicle with a fuel pressure problem will give the same symptoms as I hear on the video. ( intermittent or hard start and not all cylinders firing.)
While I haven't had this problem personally, the CRANK sensor that tw has mentioned has been a culprit on some aged i30s. It is an easy fix and I would change it first up ( as well as the workshop you are using) ALSO
Find that code. Check fuel pressure.

[beerman]

Have had a couple of keys go at work and the symptom has been a near start with cut off then nothing.....

Listen to the experts on here. They have a good strike rate.....

I dare say old mate who sent you off might have done you a favour, they are in fact saying they have no clue..

[elantraelite]

Just to play the devil's advocate card... My XD Elantra did the same thing!

It would turn over to try and start... Ended up being the transponder unit for the immobilizer.

Hyundai replaced it under warranty and it never happened again...

Also ran into the same issue with our TB Getz..m the day the person who bought it off us came to pick it up, it wouldn't start... Ended up being because I used the spare key to start it. Tried the key we always used and it started... Quite embarrassing..

Hope you sort the issue

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[nzenigma]

By transponder I think you are talking about the coil on the lock.
No indication  of it in the video.

More interesting is this as an aside :
 
"Out of curiosity on your key ring is there any sort of HID card or token or similar? Ones that are used for door access readers (like for your work's office?)

My iLoad had similar issues .....it was the HID token I had on the key ring. It first appeared a day after I put it on my key ring and disappeared a few days later when I took it off as a possible cause remedy."

(from Whirlpool)

[eye30]

Do the lights on the instrument panel light up and various ones go out as it did before?

If so,  which ones are still lit after some go out?

[tw2005]

@nzenigma @sarah_jayne1988 @eye30

The old, forgot to update this forum trick. from FB

http://www.facebook.com/groups/i30ownersclub/permalink/10156078876620353/


Sarah Dee
March 22 at 7:49pm

Update-after seeing a Hyundai mechanic today he advised me that my fuel filter wasn’t fitted properly and was causing pump issues.
Car runs fine now.

Funny how 3 mechanics couldn’t pick up an issue like that and it nearly cost me $700+ at the dealership.

I'd love an explanation on these transcripts. Not being a FB user much myself, I found it hard to workout the timeline.


Stephen James Timbers Just a few thoughts...
When you had the spark plugs replaced, did you replace the HT leads as well?

Have you tried hooking it up to a main dealer diagnostic system? Or you could buy a ODB2 Bluetooth dongle and a copy of Torque (for your phone) and try to read the ECU fault codes yourself?

Perhaps your engine immobiliser is not being deactivated properly?

It looks like it starts up pretty rough... Could your whole ECU be on the blink?

What about the crank position sensor?
1
Manage
Like
· 4d
Hide 13 Replies
Sarah Dee
Sarah Dee I purchased a FIXD dongle out of desperation. Is that good enough to be classified as an OB2 reader? Because it picked up nothing lol
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d · Edited
Sarah Dee
Sarah Dee If it’s an ECU issue, I’ll probably be looking at a new car right? Those things are over 1k at least and my car isn’t worth more than 6k
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d
Stephen James Timbers
Stephen James Timbers You might be able to find one second hand, if you're lucky enough to find the exact same car as yours in a breakers yard somewhere, but yeh, normally a new ECU is an expensive ordeal.

As for your FIXD dongle, their website looks good, but it worries me that they recommend keeping the Bluetooth enabled to that *they* can keep you updated 😕 I personally took a chance on one of those cheap Chinese £5 dongles off eBay and it seems to work pretty well; however, like most things, nothing beats the manufacturers diagnostic tool.
1
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d
Sarah Dee
Sarah Dee The check engine light came on when I unplugged the FIXD dongle so it could be that that’s caused all of this drama.
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d
Stephen James Timbers
Stephen James Timbers Possibly! I only connect mine when I'm interested in checking something - so an hour max. I never keep mine connected because I think the diagnostic port is permanently supplying power, so keeping my dongle connected would drain my battery
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d
Sarah Dee
Sarah Dee Im 8 Months pregnant and found it too hard bending down to retrieve it so I left it there for a week. Didn’t think it would cause these kind of issues though. But everything started when I plugged that thing in. eBay has Hyundai specific OB2 readers, wonder if that’s worth a shot.
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d
Stephen James Timbers
Stephen James Timbers Oh, bless you 🙂

So, you purchased this FIXD dongle and installed it before anything went wrong? If so then it may well have tried to screw with your ECU...
...See More
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d
Sarah Dee
Sarah Dee Yeah it’s compadible. I purchased it because I had a strange popping noise coming from the engine bay and thought it may pick it up. Didn’t pick a thing up so waited for someone to remove it. Then I had the struts replaced and a few other things. When the car was picked up from the mechanic it was barely starting now it’s just become worse since.
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d
Stephen James Timbers
Stephen James Timbers Hmm... Very very strange...

Given that scenario, my first thought was "has your battery voltage been checked?"; I would have expected some more telling signs of a flat battery than a simple refusal to start... Unless the battery you have is under powe...See More
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d
Stephen James Timbers
Stephen James Timbers As for the popping sound... It seems to me that if you can get back to just that happening then you will have taken a step forward! 🙂
1
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d
Sarah Dee
Sarah Dee i agree! Give me popping any day! I am taking it tomorrow to the coast to be repaired so fingers crossed any issues are ironed out along the way or repairable for less than 2k Otherwise I’ll be buying a new i30. It’s a win-win
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d
Stephen James Timbers
Stephen James Timbers Aww, best of luck! 😊 Let us all know how you got on, yeh?

And get rid of that dongle! 😉
Manage
LikeShow more reactions
· 4d
Sarah Dee
Sarah Dee i literally threw it in the bin 15 mins ago! Will keep everyone updated on the outcome as I think it could be useful information.

[nzenigma]

 mate I think this is going to be another why did we bother moment. 

[Shambles]

Steady on fellas. The young lass is on the verge of giving birth

[nzenigma]

Steady on fellas. The young lass is on the verge of giving birth

She probably wont even thank me for that .