Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol
Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol
1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?
Getting tremors and flashbacks Gary, Blue, 1.6 FD Auto, weird behaviour with the motor.Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol
1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?
2010 FD
I have pondered this for a while and haven't come up with a wonderful plan, sorry.
I would be reluctant to blame the ECU because it does eventually operate ok and if I read correctly, will be ok if you turn engine off and then on again shortly afterwards.
You have also tried to chase down bad electrical connections which would be my immediate action.
Do you see anything strange re the immobiliser eg does the light come on as per normal. It is possible the coil on the ignition switch is intermittently open.
You mention battery change_ have you tried to disconnect it for an hour, Then cause the ECU to relearn?
Getting tremors and flashbacks Gary, Blue, 1.6 FD Auto, weird behaviour with the motor.Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol
1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?
2010 FD
My car does not have an inmobilizer, will it still have an ignition coil?
I've no clue on why would the check engine light take so long to come on. like if a capacitor or something needs to fill up.Getting tremors and flashbacks Gary, Blue, 1.6 FD Auto, weird behaviour with the motor.2010 FDHi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?
I've no clue on why would the check engine light take so long to come on. like if a capacitor or something needs to fill up.Getting tremors and flashbacks Gary, Blue, 1.6 FD Auto, weird behaviour with the motor.2010 FDHi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?
@tw2005 @AbrahamSaenz .
Ok , this is a cold morning start for me too! Winter here. :disapp:
Abraham, you will see a light on the display, yellow with a small key symbol. That is showing you that your key is being recognised by the ECU. If not the light may start to flash then go out.
The key has a chip imbedded in it. A coil just behind your ignition lock reads the chip to get the correct code.
The coil is always hot (has 12v). They are known to fail or to only operate intermittently. Not hard to change it.
Before someone :whistler: starts crapping on again about the battery in the key fob, it only operates the remote, forget about it.
Overnight for the CAR battery is a good idea. :)
Gerard, yes mate, like you, my mind immediately went to Ben's ECU. That will continue to plague us. The symptoms here seem quite different, glad to say and hope :undecided:
Sorry to labor the point but the key doesn't need to have buttons to have a transponder in it. A transponder key can have a normal looking plastic head. Only if the whole thing is metal could you be sure there's no transponder.I've no clue on why would the check engine light take so long to come on. like if a capacitor or something needs to fill up.Getting tremors and flashbacks Gary, Blue, 1.6 FD Auto, weird behaviour with the motor.2010 FDHi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?
@tw2005 @AbrahamSaenz .
Ok , this is a cold morning start for me too! Winter here. :disapp:
Abraham, you will see a light on the display, yellow with a small key symbol. That is showing you that your key is being recognised by the ECU. If not the light may start to flash then go out.
The key has a chip imbedded in it. A coil just behind your ignition lock reads the chip to get the correct code.
The coil is always hot (has 12v). They are known to fail or to only operate intermittently. Not hard to change it.
Before someone :whistler: starts crapping on again about the battery in the key fob, it only operates the remote, forget about it.
Overnight for the CAR battery is a good idea. :)
Gerard, yes mate, like you, my mind immediately went to Ben's ECU. That will continue to plague us. The symptoms here seem quite different, glad to say and hope :undecided:
My car is not equipped with a immobilizer, I've a regular key a with no buttons, so that is not my issue I'm afraid. :'(... One question, does your engine light comes on as soon as you turn the key on acc position? Or it takes a while?
Sorry to labor the point but the key doesn't need to have buttons to have a transponder in it. A transponder key can have a normal looking plastic head. Only if the whole thing is metal could you be sure there's no transponder.
It just seems strange to me Hyundai would reverse engineer the car like that.
If there's a locksmith anywhere nearby, he can tell you instantly if there's a transponder.
IIRC there were Hyundai's which came with one remote central locking key and one transponder only key.
If as you claim, this is a unique Latin American variant , I cant comment on what else may be missing or in place on your car. Suggest you go to your dealer. Good Luckhe's highly likely correct. No immobiliser. 3 keys quoted are for i30 in his region.
Hello folks,Nice. The Electrolyte is corrosive. Great to see you have someone switched on who component level repairs. Love it! Symptoms did have that look waiting for the cct to energize and then working. So lucky that it could be opened up for repair. With my diesels the ecu on that looks sealed .
I've been struggling for some weeks now with a very weird issue, my car will crank but wont start. After inspecting, I've noticed that for the car to start I've to wait until the check engine light comes on it can take up to 1 MUNUTE after switching the ignition, if the engine is hot, it usually takes less time, if done within seconds, it will turn right up, the coolant temperature reading will not be available until the check engine light is lit either. The car runs perfectly fine after it has started.
VIDEO
:link: Hyundai i30 2010 Crank no Start - YouTube (https://youtu.be/XdNF9x14rfM)
So far I've
- Replaced ECU relay.
- Replaced Fuel pump relay.
- Checked for shorts (none was found)
- Checked all fuses (seem good)
- Swapped all fuse box relays.
- Replaced the coolant temperature sensor.
- Checked for error codes (None present)
At this point I'm thinking it could be the ECU, the issue seems to have started during a battery replacement cycle, either while the battery was dying or right after the installation of the new battery. I just would like to be as sure as possible before investing in something so expensive.
Thanks for your comments.
RESOLUTION
An electronics technician fixed the issue replacing a capacitor that blew inside the ECU unit, the capacitor did not fail inmediatelly, but progressively. The capacitor did spill some of its "acid" to the sorrounding area so it had to be cleaned.
The fact that I drove my car like that for about a month actually caused a lot more problem, because the capacitor started leaking and the "acid" spills to the sorrounding area quickly corroding electric paths and other components.
See the OP for the resolution
Well, bummer there. if only you had grabbed a screwdriver and opened her up, had an E54A 2L V6-24v galant liftback, that ECU opened up easy enough, expect the 3000GT would have been same construction style mind you not a lot of money compared to a new unit or likely impossible to buy.See the OP for the resolution
Many thanks for your supremely useful feedback on this :goodjob: ( I applied a highlight to your OP)
I've sent a couple of ECUs to a specialist for repair - the most recent being for a 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT, for which I was charged £120 (GBP) when all that was required was a replacement electrolytic cap, same as yours. I would have opened it and had a look for myself but it appeared to be specially sealed (as above).
@tw2005 thanks for the example pics :goodjob:
If it's a CRDi ecu for a FD go for it. Anything else :kissmyass: :rofl:
@tw2005 Gerard, If you sit nice and quietly, I will open an ECU and post a photo or two, just for you. :cool:
I know that leakages like this are relatively rare....and that all fuel injected cars have a similar setup...but it is stupid that such a minute part can cause so much headscratching and frustration. I bet cars with similar afflictions have been 'moved-on' due to owners and mechanics being unable to get to the cause.Absolutely, when the caps go on a PC and voltages become erratic how does that go? Same in an ECU, basically a processor with many sensor inputs. I think a couple of decades ago there was a period of bad caps, Moderns TVs come to mind especially LG, Samsung. Panasonic however did(not sure now) have the best caps in theirs so rarely was it a bad cap, main brands fitted were Rubycon, Nichicon and United Chemicon.
Kudos to the diagnostic technician who set things right! :goodjob2:
If it's a CRDi ecu for a FD go for it. Anything else :kissmyass: :rofl:
@tw2005 Gerard, If you sit nice and quietly, I will open an ECU and post a photo or two, just for you. :cool:
:mrgreen:
She's not talking to me any more :happydance:
:mrgreen:Now I'm back, i can see both clearly. For the diesels auto and manual are the same ECU as they have a separate TCU.
She's not talking to me any more :happydance:
:mrgreen:Now I'm back, i can see both clearly. For the diesels auto and manual are the same ECU as they have a separate TCU.
She's not talking to me any more :happydance:
Best part of that link was the Domonos pizza Ad, worked out what brand those caps are yet?:mrgreen:Now I'm back, i can see both clearly. For the diesels auto and manual are the same ECU as they have a separate TCU.
She's not talking to me any more :happydance:
Music too my ears G. :link: Johnny Nash - I Can See Clearly Now - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FscIgtDJFXg)