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2011 i30 1.4 CW engine failure due chain issue at 120 000km

Henri · 112 · 27575

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Offline Henri

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Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.

Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter  engine, please land.

It's RC isn't it  ;)

Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline tw2005

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Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.

Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter  engine, please land.

It's RC isn't it  ;)

Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.
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Offline Henri

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Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.

Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter  engine, please land.

It's RC isn't it  ;)

Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.

Yep, this is what I do. Coffee break parliament at work came to the same conclusion and it has to be the truth.
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline tw2005

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Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.

Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter  engine, please land.

It's RC isn't it  ;)

Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.

Yep, this is what I do. Coffee break parliament at work came to the same conclusion and it has to be the truth.
Ok, So the President is now involved? Or is google translate playing with us?

fallback position, this Guy.



 :mrgreen: :goodjob2:
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Offline Henri

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Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.

Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter  engine, please land.

It's RC isn't it  ;)

Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.

Yep, this is what I do. Coffee break parliament at work came to the same conclusion and it has to be the truth.
Ok, So the President is now involved? Or is google translate playing with us?

fallback position, this Guy.



 :mrgreen: :goodjob2:

No Google translate is used. President of our company may be involved. At work we have a coffee break twice in a day and one lunch break too. There are dozen engineers and fourty technicians of all kind many of them having rally or other car sport or tuning hobby. That is our parliament where discussion flows with technical minded people and all kind of opinions are released. Just pick those sounding the most reliable and follow them.

"Who wants to be a millionare, ask from audience" - TV show kind of system. I just can ask as many times needed.
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline tw2005

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Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.

Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter  engine, please land.

It's RC isn't it  ;)

Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.

Yep, this is what I do. Coffee break parliament at work came to the same conclusion and it has to be the truth.
Ok, So the President is now involved? Or is google translate playing with us?

fallback position, this Guy.



 :mrgreen: :goodjob2:

No Google translate is used. President of our company may be involved. At work we have a coffee break twice in a day and one lunch break too. There are dozen engineers and fourty technicians of all kind many of them having rally or other car sport or tuning hobby. That is our parliament where discussion flows with technical minded people and all kind of opinions are released. Just pick those sounding the most reliable and follow them.

"Who wants to be a millionare, ask from audience" - TV show kind of system. I just can ask as many times needed.
Love your humour, Sounds like a place I dream of :winker:
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Offline nzenigma

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  :agreed:  Yes, I'm liking these guys already. :D

 My 6am pre coffee responses may have confused both of us.  :undecided:

 I often use the starter motor to 'crack' the crank shaft bolt especially on an automatic where I cant lock the engine in low gear.
By having a long bar going from socket to a jack stand on the right hand side of the motor, a quick on/off of the starter will usually loosen the bolt.



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Offline Henri

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Often parts of the manual also covers other procedures such as engine removal. Would ignore it at this stage, it may refer to this: that you will need to lock the flywheel at TDC before you begin to reassemble.

Assume that the cam bolt is anticlockwise. That is normal, especially due to rotational direction of components, so a clockwise thread is usually noted.
Referring my helicopter clockwise rotating rotor propeller which tightens anticlockwise, this bolt should open clockwise. This way propeller tightens automatically, and timing pulley should work the same. Timing marks show that engine runs clockwise so bolt should open clockwise too.
when you hear funny noises from helicopter  engine, please land.

It's RC isn't it  ;)

Yes RC. If propeller is left loosen and you accelerate it rolls tight. Airflow decelerates propeller and motor tightens it. With racing drones that does not apply because they decelerate motor electrically actively for quicker motor response.
But for Hyundai camshaft bolt I'm a bit confused. That's a point where car is left now. Luckily we have spare car available and this can hold.
I would disregard helicopter theory and follow anti-clockwise to remove the cam gear bolts.

Yep, this is what I do. Coffee break parliament at work came to the same conclusion and it has to be the truth.
Ok, So the President is now involved? Or is google translate playing with us?

fallback position, this Guy.



 :mrgreen: :goodjob2:

No Google translate is used. President of our company may be involved. At work we have a coffee break twice in a day and one lunch break too. There are dozen engineers and fourty technicians of all kind many of them having rally or other car sport or tuning hobby. That is our parliament where discussion flows with technical minded people and all kind of opinions are released. Just pick those sounding the most reliable and follow them.

"Who wants to be a millionare, ask from audience" - TV show kind of system. I just can ask as many times needed.
Love your humour, Sounds like a place I dream of :winker:

Come here to see the land of the happiest people, really I can't believe we honored such prize.



But hey, camshaft bolt is open! That opened counterclockwise.




  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline tw2005

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Holy Cow batman, nice hardware
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Offline nzenigma

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But hey, camshaft bolt is open! That opened counterclockwise.

Enigma exits right, amid deafening applause  :happydance:

Enigma, returns to stage to further enjoy his/her/it's triumph and informs rapturous audience that 'The Partner' was in Helsinki earlier this year , loved the place and people, and we are planning to return next year- extended Scando holiday.

 :goodjob2:

Now back to work , all of youz.
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Offline Henri

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In case someone plans to make this same operation I keep adding hints for some steps (best practises I found).

One challenging task may be removing this aluminium cover. I found it difficult to first tear sealing glue and then slide bottom of the cover out from camshaft. And these operations with minimal damage on sealing surfaces.

Those small angle bars were perfect for this and cost few € each only. They are thin, wide and short. All required features. Normal screwdriver may work as well but it feels so narrow and may leave mark on surface. That cover has to keep oil inside.


  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline Henri

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This tensioner has some kind of automatic adjustment. That toothed bar should come out one teeth at a time when chain loosens. I found approx 5-7 mm cap in between tensioner pusher rod and black plastic guide. Apparently that toothed system has not worked. When I pulled toothed rod out few mm by hand it locked in place and chain is tight.






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Offline Henri

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This one blank screw seems to be check hole for something on tensioner.







« Last Edit: September 09, 2018, 19:02:17 by Henri »
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline Henri

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Cool to get obd reader now afterwards, thanks to postal system. Fault code is clear and would have revealed coming failure beforehand.

From now on this reader travels on my car keychain with car specific software installed.

(Note, if you read this and have engine fault light ON and feel underpowered engine, STOP. Get a reader or get someone to help and check if timing error code is present). Lesson learned: this car do not have "safety mode" in this case. Power loss is due mistiming...



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Offline Dazzler

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Thanks Henri, some helpful and interesting stuff there.  :goodjob:
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Offline nzenigma

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Thanks for you reports Henri,
Use the Foxwell myself good unit but some i30 updates are not available for some reason
The hole you point to on the tensioner is probably for a pin to hold it closed until install is finished.
Probably has a spring but will also rely upon oil pressure. Irrespective, get a new one.
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Offline Henri

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Thanks for you reports Henri,
Use the Foxwell myself good unit but some i30 updates are not available for some reason
The hole you point to on the tensioner is probably for a pin to hold it closed until install is finished.
Probably has a spring but will also rely upon oil pressure. Irrespective, get a new one.

Oil pressure push piston out and piston end should push toothed rod with kind of fork. That is seen on my previous message up there. Teeth are maybe 2-3 mm apart each other and that is maximum cap it should allow before next rod teeth climbs over the holder teeth. I'm not sure why it was stuck in this case. I guess that rod guide is too loose and rod can go sideways somehow and stuck. Anyway, I get new one at any day.

Could someone post pages from service manual for removing inlet and outlet from cylinder head? Especially where screws are located and how many to expect of them before begin apply force.
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline Henri

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Offline tw2005

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additional 5 pdf files added to the link
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Offline Henri

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Almost there.
Service manual instructions ask to remove half of the parts from engine compartment. I skipped some parts such as "remove battery tray". So far no need for that.
Disassembly has been pretty straightforward and nothing special yet. Valves look good at inlet side and no any major damage is present.


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Offline tw2005

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Almost there.
Service manual instructions ask to remove half of the parts from engine compartment. I skipped some parts such as "remove battery tray". So far no need for that.
Disassembly has been pretty straightforward and nothing special yet. Valves look good at inlet side and no any major damage is present.


Can be deceptive, you'd have to get them leak tested. ?
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Offline nzenigma

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Almost there.
Service manual instructions ask to remove half of the parts from engine compartment. I skipped some parts such as "remove battery tray". So far no need for that.
Disassembly has been pretty straightforward and nothing special yet. Valves look good at inlet side and no any major damage is present.

Can be deceptive, you'd have to get them leak tested. ?

That was my immediate response too. An easy test is to place the head upside down ( cams pointing away from the valves) and pour petrol into each combustion recess. If the valves are bent they will leak. You could do this with petrol into each port too.

Its quite rare to not have some valve damage in this scenario.
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Offline Dazzler

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I think I can spot your problem. I think it's the orange rag (not meant to be there!)  :snigger:

But seriously, if no valve damage you need to buy a lottery ticket!
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Offline mickd

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Didn't you have a picture of a valve touching piston?   :sweating:  :sweating: 
If all checks out OK , it would must have JUST (1/3 of a SFA) missed.   :happydance:
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Offline nzenigma

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Oil pressure push piston out and piston end should push toothed rod with kind of fork. That is seen on my previous message up there. Teeth are maybe 2-3 mm apart each other and that is maximum cap it should allow before next rod teeth climbs over the holder teeth. I'm not sure why it was stuck in this case. I guess that rod guide is too loose and rod can go sideways somehow and stuck.

I noticed in your first message saying that you tried to do a hill start . If you do that, you don't have oil pressure to the tensioner = no tensioner.
The circa 2015 VW and possibly Skoda were having the same trouble. Rolling backwards a major do not.
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Offline Henri

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Oil pressure push piston out and piston end should push toothed rod with kind of fork. That is seen on my previous message up there. Teeth are maybe 2-3 mm apart each other and that is maximum cap it should allow before next rod teeth climbs over the holder teeth. I'm not sure why it was stuck in this case. I guess that rod guide is too loose and rod can go sideways somehow and stuck.

I noticed in your first message saying that you tried to do a hill start . If you do that, you don't have oil pressure to the tensioner = no tensioner.
The circa 2015 VW and possibly Skoda were having the same trouble. Rolling backwards a major do not.

Sorry I messed quote with slippy oily fingers trying to operate mobile phone... This following is for someone who commented text above:

I made the hill start which was the final push. But Inthink it is not a reason for failure. This is my best guess today: chain is longer than should--> tensioner toothed backlash rod didn't lock in place with that long chain. Therefore chain had change to become too loose. That toothed rod should prevent chain become too loose before oil pressure reach the tensioner piston. I pulled toothed rod by hand and it locked one step tighter which made chain quite tight. So failure is because of too long chain which forced tensioner to operate at it's limits where it never reach without hand assist.

For other guys who commented: inlet valves can be tested with gasoline (or ethanol) and furthermore with compressed air. Exhaust is not so easy due motor angle. I try to do tests at least with compressed air later this week. I don't have spark plug adapter and need to make one.

Never ending lottery is always active but no luck at that frontier either.
« Last Edit: September 12, 2018, 19:19:04 by tw2005 »
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Offline Henri

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I found easy way to remove exhaust manifold without opening catalysator rusty bolts (Ipad, which I use for reading manual, battery was flat and I guess service manual instructed to remove catalysator because it instructs to remove everything:) )

I detached two exhaust tube (correct term?) support rubbers and one bolt holding the catalysator. Then exhaust manidold had enough room to fall from cylinder head.









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Offline nzenigma

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This following is for someone who commented text above:

I made the hill start which was the final push. But Inthink it is not a reason for failure.
For other guys who commented: inlet valves can be tested with gasoline (or ethanol)

Appears that I am both someone and also other guys  :mrgreen:

The tensioner is there for a good reason . The timing chain will stretch over time. Its usable life should be double or triple your kms. Otherwise we would stick with timing belts and change them every 100K km.

As I said petrol is a practical method to check valves assuming head is off. If use the compressed air method you will need to lock the motor or turn each cylinder to BDC. If not the air pressure will spin the motor and cause damage.
Cheers
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