[Olympicon]

Hi All,

Started to experience an intermittent starting problem. Once in every 4 or 5 starts the engine just endless turns over without starting. It turns over normal speed and sounds fine in this respect. Sometimes the car starts to shudder or vibrate as if the engine is so very close to starting but doesn’t make it. Other times it will start in a second no issues.

It runs fine once started.
Plenty of fuel.
New battery and alternator less than a year ago.
No warning lights.
Temperature makes no difference (it’s above freezing here at the moment anyway) this morning I got to work, went out 20 minutes later so the car was still warm and it just turned over. I turned the ignition off/on a few times and after a few attempts and it kicked into life.

I’m at a bit of a loss! Any ideas?

[aanastasiou4]

Mine does that too from time to time but its a 1.6 crdi auto. I changed the battery but the problem isn't fixed...

[Olympicon]

Very annoying isn’t it! The other day I was sat trying to start it so long that someone came round in the car and offered jump leads 

[eye30]

Could it be fuel related such as starvation or faulty pump

[Shambles]

I'm guessing the answer to this is no (given it's a 2008 vehicle) but do you have a spare key equipped with transponder chip, that you could try?

[nzenigma]

I'm guessing the answer to this is no (given it's a 2008 vehicle) but do you have a spare key equipped with transponder chip, that you could try?

The answer is may be, sort of. The key chip remains inert until excited by the 'aerial coil' around the ignition lock.

That coil can go open CCT intermittently. Usually, display light with key symbol will flash and then go out. Means that the immobiliser  is still active and engine will not start.

The coil replacement is DIY do able.

[nzenigma]

I assume @Olympicon  that you have had advice on glow plug function and replacement.

Given that you say car runs fine doubt that it is fuel related although give the primer above the filter a pump just to check that the line from tank and tank strainer are ok

[Olympicon]

Hadn’t thought of the immobiliser although again no lights out of the ordinary on the dash?

I did think glow plugs but the temperature of the engine seems to make no difference, it was 10 degrees earlier car started fine drive to work came out 20 minutes later wouldn’t start for a while.
Also no glow plug related warning lights.
I’m not an expert on Diesel engines, on these do the glow plugs only kick in when cold or are they required for every start?

Fuel wise, by now I’d have experienced running issues surely considering how often it’s struggling to start now

[nzenigma]

Also no glow plug related warning lights.

There isnt one. Just the cct check light when first turn on ignition. Plugs come on at start and periodically during a drive for environment reasons.
If the engine is warm it can start  without glow plugs.

Re immobilisor light what do you observe. Does car symbol stay on without key symbol? = correct status.

Have you checked for codes?

Check for loose connections (electrical  and vacuum )under bonnet--take cover off motor to do this.

[aanastasiou4]

Very annoying isn’t it! The other day I was sat trying to start it so long that someone came round in the car and offered jump leads 

It is indeed very annoying especially when you are in a public area and people stare at you trying to start your car... Mine is just 4 years old.

[Shambles]

Mine is just 4 years old.

You mean 6 years old? 

[Dazzler]

Mine is just 4 years old.

You mean 6 years old? 

Be fair! It was only 4 years old 2 years ago...

[nzenigma]

Mine is just 4 years old.

You mean 6 years old? 

Be fair! It was only 4 years old 2 years ago...

Greek Calendar?  Probably = 4 years 

[Olympicon]

Also no glow plug related warning lights.

There isnt one. Just the cct check light when first turn on ignition. Plugs come on at start and periodically during a drive for environment reasons.
If the engine is warm it can start  without glow plugs.

Re immobilisor light what do you observe. Does car symbol stay on without key symbol? = correct status.

Have you checked for codes?

Check for loose connections (electrical  and vacuum )under bonnet--take cover off motor to do this.

There’s a glow plug light that comes on briefly when I turn the ignition on, it’s at the bottom of the Rev counter.

When I turn the ignition the car symbol with the black key in the middle comes on and stays on until I start the car then it goes off.

Annoyingly (?) it’s not done it for a few days now, starts pretty much immediately or on the second turn.

Would poor glow plugs cause economy issues? The MPG is 36-37 round town but lots of shorter trips and it’s been remapped but it’s still the least I’ve seen since the remap couple years ago.

Plugging in show faults even though ECU light not come on?

Cheers for the replies guys

[aanastasiou4]

Mine is just 4 years old.

You mean 6 years old? 

Hahaha sorry yes, I got confused with my other car...

[nzenigma]

There’s a glow plug light that comes on briefly when I turn the ignition on, it’s at the bottom of the Rev counter.

When I turn the ignition the car symbol with the black key in the middle comes on and stays on until I start the car then it goes off.

Good, Thats what you should see. 

I cant comment on glow plugs because I dont know their condition, age etc. Need to be measured with meter.

[Olympicon]

Now gone back to starting fine, this morning was barely above freezing and it started straight away (I always turn the ignition on and wait for a few seconds for things to prime)

I’m sure my fuel economy as gone down the pan though, what’s the usual culprit for that? Aside from a heavy right foot 

[Olympicon]

So after a week of being ok it failed again earlier and wouldn’t start for ages (boo) however this time the ECU light came on (yay) so it turns out it’s a faulty crank sensor. The RAC chap took the bolt out but couldn’t get it out and didn’t want to force it so I’ll WD40 it and order a new sensor!

[nzenigma]

So after a week of being ok it failed again earlier and wouldn’t start for ages (boo) however this time the ECU light came on (yay) so it turns out it’s a faulty crank sensor. The RAC chap took the bolt out but couldn’t get it out and didn’t want to force it so I’ll WD40 it and order a new sensor!

Good you seem fairly positive, therefore I assume RAC chap read a fault code. Easy DIY. Good luck. 

[Olympicon]

He did indeed read the fault code.
However this evening I tried getting the old one out. After about an hour or two of trying every which way to get to it I gave up. Managed to get the 10mm bolt out after scratching my arms to pieces but it still wouldn’t budge even a little so I think it may be a garage job.
Tried getting to it from underneath but it’s difficult when you haven’t got a lot of clearance

[nzenigma]

Tried getting to it from underneath but it’s difficult when you haven’t got a lot of clearance

I often jack the car up first.

 

[Olympicon]

Haha knew I was doing something wrong!!
I can imagine up on a ramp it would be a bit easier, but it seems jammed in there fairly solid and it’s hard to get any pressure on it from the top. Take it there’s just the one 10mm bolt and it should pull out?

[tw2005]

Haha knew I was doing something wrong!!
I can imagine up on a ramp it would be a bit easier, but it seems jammed in there fairly solid and it’s hard to get any pressure on it from the top. Take it there’s just the one 10mm bolt and it should pull out?

Will it rotate with the 10mm bolt removed?

[nzenigma]

The WD40 should penetrate enough to free it.
With bolt removed, get a screw driver or something long enough to reach that tab and tap it sideways with a hammer. Once it turns a bit it should be free enough to lever out.

[tw2005]

The WD40 should penetrate enough to free it.
With bolt removed, get a screw driver or something long enough to reach that tab and tap it sideways with a hammer. Once it turns a bit it should be free enough to lever out.

 

Which one shall we use? 

[Shambles]

All the above, but start small.

[Olympicon]

Problem I’m having is I can’t even get to it to hit it or even see it...
There’s a large pipe that goes from the air box to the turbo that looks like if I take it off I might be able to get to it?

[tw2005]

Problem I’m having is I can’t even get to it to hit it or even see it...
There’s a large pipe that goes from the air box to the turbo that looks like if I take it off I might be able to get to it?

geez, Merrry Xmas .

Just thinking if it's setup similar to the D4FB, would removing the mounting bolts and disconnecting the front intercooler hose allow it to mve just enough out of the way?

[nzenigma]

Problem I’m having is I can’t even get to it to hit it or even see it...
There’s a large pipe that goes from the air box to the turbo that looks like if I take it off I might be able to get to it?

Like tw, I imagine it is the pipe (2825C1) that is going to the intercooler. Easy to remove and replace it. A bolt or two and hose clips. Clips usually have a cap over the adjustment. Flick it off with screw driver and undo the hose clips as usual.
TIP. Clean oil off pipes and hose before fitting clips/ hose/pipe FIRM and TIGHT. This area has pressure when car is running.

[tweety]

Fixed mine. Fuel filter renew. Hot weather and slight  lockage with a used filter will cause starting problems.