i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => GENERAL => Topic started by: Olympicon on January 23, 2019, 00:54:57
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Dropped my car off at the dealer for a fuel issue (see other thread)
:link: 2.0 CRDI trouble starting - new battery/alternator no warning lights? (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=52400.0)
they’d told me it had a loud noise suspected diff when it had been in a few days ago. Drove a day or two and it developed the fuel issue so dropped it back. Got a phone call today to say they went to test drive it and I no longer had a 5th or 6th gear, which is odd as I did when I dropped it off.
Anyway it had warranty so potentially covered, but Hyundai want £3k+ just for a new box plus labour (more than the cars worth)
Anyone have experience with having a 6 speed box rebuilt on the D4EA engine? Hoping to have it done and fitted for under £1000 in which case they’d probably pay...
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If you have warranty why are you even talking money?
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It’s aftermarket up to the value of the car with a 50% part contribution due to age and mileage. Which isn’t so bad if the box is rebuilt as labour is 100% covered, not great if the box is £3k and I have to pay half....
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Ok, you had a fuel problem and they told you it had a bad diff, now they say no 5 or 6 .
Get written quote for repair listing all faults, ask what was car doing when it lost 5 & 6.
Remove car for 2nd opinion. Down here it's been proven that these add on warranties are just crap. Usually massively overcharging if any repair needed.
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:whsaid: unfortunately I smell a rat. Sounds a bit like they have inflated the problem to generate a false quote for a larger sum. Then they get you to pay half which is actually the full cost of the actual fault. I could be wrong but sounds odd these other faults suddenly appeared. Like Mick says, from a short stint in the car game in the 90s I can confirm these aftermarket warranties are dodgy. :disapp:
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Ok, you had a fuel problem and they told you it had a bad diff, now they say no 5 or 6 .
Get written quote for repair listing all faults, ask what was car doing when it lost 5 & 6.
Remove car for 2nd opinion. Down here it's been proven that these add on warranties are just crap. Usually massively overcharging if any repair needed.
Thankfully, my mind had blotted out the " fuel problem". I included the link above, then the went WTF :Jaw:
There is also the unresolved issue of the faulty old, plus faulty new valeo crank sensor.
Also unexplained later post re fuel problem:
"Conincidence or... just had a drive, about 4 times on full throttle got to about 3k rpm and it just wouldn’t rev any higher as if I’d hit a limiter ...."
PS Mick and Dazz are on the money. :goodjob2:
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Now replying to myself :wacko: time to retire.
Previously, I have challenged the posts on the fuel issue because nobody involved seemed to have any mechanical dexterity or the ability to properly gather evidence.
In regard to:
"on full throttle got to about 3k rpm and it just wouldn’t rev any higher as if I’d hit a limiter ...."
Could cause be _ OP's top gear is now 4th gear? :head_butt:
Has the 'Little Britain hammer team' managed bend a gear shift linkage while removing CKS?
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This gets better. I’ve collected the car from the garage, went to start it and surprise surprise it just cranked and wouldn’t start. But wasn’t this issue meant to have been resolved by the genuine Hyundai crank sensor they made me pay for after claiming my Valeo one was faulty, I hear you cry.
Anyway eventually it started, and as they say, even with the engine off you simply cannot move the gear stick all the way to the right to enable you to go up or down to select 5 and 6. However (aside from the fuel issue) it drove home perfectly fine in every gear including 4th. Surely if the internals had suffered such catastrophic failure as to lose 5/6 gear I’d at the very least hear some knocking or crunching??
Also re fuel issue. Realised I haven’t changed the fuel filter since 2015 and probably covered a fair amount of miles so I may well start there for that problem :whistler:
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By the way can I just thank everyone for replying and offering suggestings on this calamity of events
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@Olympicon No problems. Sounds like you need to get a 2nd opinion froman independent garage. Fingers crossed these issues are over stated and easily sorted. :sweating:
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@Olympicon No problems. Sounds like you need to get a 2nd opinion froman independent garage. Fingers crossed these issues are over stated and easily sorted. :sweating:
agree Daz. Have been indicating same. A competent old timer should sort this. First thing I would look at is gear linkage. If box is dud go towrecker. Start prob is connector or crap in fuel.
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@Olympicon No problems. Sounds like you need to get a 2nd opinion froman independent garage. Fingers crossed these issues are over stated and easily sorted. :sweating:
agree Daz. Have been indicating same. A competent old timer should sort this. First thing I would look at is gear linkage. If box is dud go towrecker. Start prob is connector or crap in fuel.
You sure have had a run of idiots and bullshit !!.
Box sounds like it's OK.
As per nz, try gear linkage, should have a fresh mark on it . (Assuming they didn't remove it & forgot to replace it :lol:) might pay to get another, so you can see if there is a change of shape.
Not that I'll be going over to buy a car, but do you wish to give them a "plug" for others over there?
Problems and the associated questions, head scratching and thoughts are all part of the forum.
Most of the time I just go - what ??, but always throw my thoughts up if I have any :lol: :lol:
You'll be a wealth of knowledge when you get sorted, keep us posted . :goodjob:
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Honestly I’m starting to think their incompetence knows no bounds.
Called RAC out as it will need a tow to the garage for the box, explaineded the circumstances and he was the same opinion as me that it seemed unlikely to be the box. He had a look and couldn’t see the cable even moving when I tried to select 5/6 gear. Unfortunately there was a limit to what he could do so still advised garage but starting point was linkage.
After he’d gone I took off the gear surround and disconnected the cable, gear stick happily then went into gears so ruled that out. Engine bay I disconnected the applicable cable from the linkage and (thank god) selector happily now moved to where it should be. Looked at the cable and sure enough it wouldn’t ‘push’ in the direction it should to select those gears so it’s just a cable fault. There’s Hyundai quoting me £3000+ without even carrying out basic diagnostics.
The cables look like a bit of a pig to change so I’ll probably still take it to a garage for that.
Another coincidence, the broken cable (see vid) is, drum roll... right next to the crank sensor and where you’d be fiddling about to change it :crazy2: in the video where the cable moves ‘in’ its then meant to move a further distance in to select 5th or 6th but it physically won’t go any further in that direction than in the video. Thinking the broken bits of rubber/plastic probably have something to do with it.
https://youtu.be/M5TIqF2Fjqs
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Also anyone got a link and/or part number for the gear linkage? It’s a 2.0 CRDi 2008 thanks :)
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Also anyone got a link and/or part number for the gear linkage? It’s a 2.0 CRDi 2008 thanks :)
Hopefully it's the same as the 1.6 CRDi one! The 2.0 Crdi (i30) was never sold in Australia and was only available in the UK for the first 12 months or so of the FD series. We have only ever had a handful of members with that engine.
Fingers crossed someone can source a part number for you. At least it sound like most of your repairs will now be at a significant lower cost. :happydance:
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:laughter: As you say their incompetence knows no bounds :laughter:
That cable is stuffed.
@Dazzler mate I think John had a 6 speed.
Irrespective, like most of our era, John and I learnt about gearboxes in the cradle ( separate ;) )
There will be two cables or links acting on the gear box to action forward gears.
#1 acts for the forward and back motion of the gear lever eg.
a. 1 to 2nd
b. 3 to 4th
c. 5 to 6th
link #2 responds to the sideways motion of the gear lever, and opens an internal gate in the box
so that only a , b or c and be engaged at one time.
Reverse has its own link.
Edit: not sure if the cable pictured is #1. you need to find #2, which ever way, that will probably sort the issue.
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Also anyone got a link and/or part number for the gear linkage? It’s a 2.0 CRDi 2008 thanks :)
Hopefully it's the same as the 1.6 CRDi one! The 2.0 Crdi (i30) was never sold in Australia and was only available in the UK for the first 12 months or so of the FD series. We have only ever had a handful of members with that engine.
Fingers crossed someone can source a part number for you. At least it sound like most of your repairs will now be at a significant lower cost. :happydance:
Did the 1.6 come with a 6 speed manual box?
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43794-1H300
(https://hyundai.7zap.com/ImgsWatermark/Imgs/Cats/KEURPJD0/4343811.png)
1.6 DF4B is different part number
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Also fitted KIA Ceed 2006 - 2009 2000cc DSL SOHC TCI, 6 spd manual
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Keep that video :goodjob:
I'd be sending that to Hyundai over there with copies of the quotes and anything else and ask them "WTF is that dealer doing to its customers and Hyundai brand ? " - Shafting them both. :disapp:
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Yeah, agreed with Mickd. Got to keep them honest.
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Keep that video :goodjob:
I'd be sending that to Hyundai over there with copies of the quotes and anything else and ask them "WTF is that dealer doing to its customers and Hyundai brand ? " - Shafting them both. :disapp:
The other point ( while hard to prove) is that one of the geniuses has been swinging on that cable while trying to get at the nearby sensor. She has managed to pull the outer sheath of that bowden cable away from the mounting point. The cable is now useless.
However , the word 'Useless' also seems to describe both workshops .
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Seems more likely than not that all the recent garage exposure has caused the issue but impossible to prove. No doubt Hyundai will tell me they didn’t officially diagnose the gearbox failure or it was just a suggestion :neutral:
Thanks for the part number, looks like dealer only part so I’m not looking forward to the price :fum:
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Wreckers !
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Wreckers !
Could be very scarce being around 9 years ago and in limited numbers...
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Wreckers !
Could be very scarce being around 9 years ago and in limited numbers...
I would still try them though. Plenty in Oz ;) The cars and cables last for ever, but depends how rough the wrecker was removing the engine
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I’ll see how much the dealer wants (might try a different one) I may as well put a new one in, if it’s too expensive then yes breakers it is!
Also managed to break the gear surround, turns out I have the model where the gaitor is held into the surround by 4 screws not just clips so snapped two of them. Struggling to find a decent quality replacement surround now eBay ones all seem crappy or the wrong type :crazy2:
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Bloody Hell :disapp: more crap . :disapp: :disapp:
3 x crow calls - Farrk, Farrk, Farrrrk !!
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I’ll see how much the dealer wants (might try a different one) I may as well put a new one in, if it’s too expensive then yes breakers it is!
Also managed to break the gear surround, turns out I have the model where the gaitor is held into the surround by 4 screws not just clips so snapped two of them. Struggling to find a decent quality replacement surround now eBay ones all seem crappy or the wrong type :crazy2:
:crazy1: :snow:
Step 1 would be unscrew the knob
Step2 The centre fascia is clipped in, once that is prised out , you undo any electricals
step 3 should just lift off
Likely you're going to have to remove the entire centre console
A new one is likely hundres of pounds, later models new I'm seeing 200 quid average.
A simple search in Ebay UK will yield fruit :headbang:
example
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/p2MAAOSw4vpbybkc/s-l1600.jpg)
:link: Hyundai I30 2007 - 2012 2.0 Diesel 6 Manual Gearbox Linkage Cables | eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hyundai-I30-2007-2012-2-0-Diesel-6-Manual-Gearbox-Linkage-Cables/163323558376?epid=4024939017&hash=item2606d7b9e8:g:p2MAAOSw4vpbybkc:rk:6:pf:0)
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Agree that its all straight forward But>>>>>
But NOT Step 1 would be unscrew the knob. :undecided:
Do not try that.
Sorry, doing a Lester here, but from memory under the knob there is a chrome thing, and under that is a pin that needs to be pulled out or pushed in.
:wacko: its been a while since I dun wun.
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Agree that its all straight forward But>>>>>
But NOT Step 1 would be unscrew the knob. :undecided:
Do not try that.
Sorry, doing a Lester here, but from memory under the knob there is a chrome thing, and under that is a pin that needs to be pulled out or pushed in.
:wacko: its been a while since I dun wun.
:whistler:, oh well.......
The manual knob screws on and I think the interlock lifts off but the manual seems to have forgotten the manual shifter.
The Auto has a chrome collar that has to be pushed down then a threaded screw is undone to remove the shifter knob.
:question:
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Elantra which has a slightly different centre console, implies the knob can stay on and the boot slips over .
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That’s the one I was looking at!
Thankfully the centre console is easy to replace, it lifts up/in clips from the end nearest the handbrake and just pulls out. Only need to undo the Velcro on the gear surround to lift the gaitor over. Hopefully find a decent quality second hand one part number for it is 846512l800
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£362 for a new cable from the dealer. No words :crazy1:
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£362 for a new cable from the dealer. No words :crazy1:
I was trying to be conservative, bit of a no brainer. Hope you purchased that on on Flea Bay, cause I found no other.
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Ordered the £40 one from eBay :goodjob:
Although the transmission specialist said it was 5 hours book time to change... which is the same as the entire gearbox.
Taking it to my usual garage instead
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Agree that its all straight forward But>>>>>
But NOT Step 1 would be unscrew the knob. :undecided:
Do not try that.
Sorry, doing a Lester here, but from memory under the knob there is a chrome thing, and under that is a pin that needs to be pulled out or pushed in.
:wacko: its been a while since I dun wun.
:whistler:, oh well.......
The manual knob screws on and I think the interlock lifts off but the manual seems to have forgotten the manual shifter.
The Auto has a chrome collar that has to be pushed down then a threaded screw is undone to remove the shifter knob.
:question:
:D now you know how to do both..... it was a test :whistler:
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Anyone got the guide for changing the cable assembly? Can’t find it on the workshop manual but the book time is 4.8 hours?? :scared:
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Found it under Manual Transaxle Shift Control. But only when I changed the vehicle to a 2.0 petrol. For 2.0 and 1.6 diesel in 2008 it only shows automatic for some reason.
Anyway it looks fairly straight forward until you get to the part where it says “NOTICE In case, remove the crush pad and cowl cross bar (Refer to Crush pad in BD group and heater unit in HA group) that reads as if it’s optional, maybe the access to the bolts where the cable goes through the bulkhead isn’t easy and necessitates removing most of the dash
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No reference like that in my manual.
Might be something transcribed from another manual and sounds like part of front off & gear box removal procedure.
The cables travel below the dash. not connected to it.
centre console needs to be loose.
You may need to unbolt front seats to get at side screws
just need to play it by eye, ear and brain.
Ive got several complete strips for parts mixed with air bag module repairs, so off top of my head, not sure of most economical method. Cant remember anything challenging.
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Cheers. Will give it a shot tomorrow! Can’t believe the cables are £360 from Hyundai there’s really nothing to them
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Cheers. Will give it a shot tomorrow! Can’t believe the cables are £360 from Hyundai there’s really nothing to them
if you look in the Elantra manual of the same years you should find a bit more on the manual shift. I found nothing in i30 and I thought I had mentioned this already
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What a nightmare. The two nuts holding the cover plate to the bulkhead are situation behind the heater matrix/unit hence the part about taking the dash out. Managed to get them off, took about an hour or so to get them back on and tightened up 1/8 of a turn at a time using a swan neck spanner and performing amateur acrobatics so I could see what I was doing.
If anyone else ends up having to do it - buy a 12mm ratchet spanner with a flexible head I think that could save a lot of time. Also used an extendable magnet (the ones for picking up dropped tools) to get the bits back in position without dropping them.
I’ll post some pics but like you can see in the video the hard plastic sheath around the cable on the box end is broken (it’s quite tough so wouldn’t just break on it’s own accord) and because of a piece of metal on the cable, this catches the broken plastic and prevents it moving further in that direction. Once it was busted it would have failed immediately I can’t see it having being broken and then caused the problems later on
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I feel for you mate. I hate that sort of job. Awkward and frustrating! :disapp:
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What a nightmare. The two nuts holding the cover plate to the bulkhead are situation behind the heater matrix/unit hence the part about taking the dash out. Managed to get them off, took about an hour or so to get them back on and tightened up 1/8 of a turn at a time using a swan neck spanner and performing amateur acrobatics so I could see what I was doing.
If anyone else ends up having to do it - buy a 12mm ratchet spanner with a flexible head I think that could save a lot of time. Also used an extendable magnet (the ones for picking up dropped tools) to get the bits back in position without dropping them.
I’ll post some pics but like you can see in the video the hard plastic sheath around the cable on the box end is broken (it’s quite tough so wouldn’t just break on it’s own accord) and because of a piece of metal on the cable, this catches the broken plastic and prevents it moving further in that direction. Once it was busted it would have failed immediately I can’t see it having being broken and then caused the problems later on
Just think of the money you're saving
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What a nightmare. The two nuts holding the cover plate to the bulkhead are situation behind the heater matrix/unit hence the part about taking the dash out. Managed to get them off, took about an hour or so to get them back on and tightened up 1/8 of a turn at a time using a swan neck spanner and performing amateur acrobatics so I could see what I was doing.
If anyone else ends up having to do it - buy a 12mm ratchet spanner with a flexible head I think that could save a lot of time. Also used an extendable magnet (the ones for picking up dropped tools) to get the bits back in position without dropping them.
I’ll post some pics but like you can see in the video the hard plastic sheath around the cable on the box end is broken (it’s quite tough so wouldn’t just break on it’s own accord) and because of a piece of metal on the cable, this catches the broken plastic and prevents it moving further in that direction. Once it was busted it would have failed immediately I can’t see it having being broken and then caused the problems later on
Just think of the money you're saving
Think those tools would have said "oh and your gear linkages are shot too, another 1000
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I feel for you mate. I hate that sort of job. Awkward and frustrating! :disapp:
Ok, lads time to take up the work load, :whistler: Dazz is no longer on the tools. :evil:
Just think of the money you're saving
And all the experience, and all the proper tools :cool:
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Cheers guys! Yeah I was debating removing the dash but then it said ‘Remove left seat’ and apparently that’s where I draw the line :lol:
I’m still waiting for the results of the faulty crank sensor but then I’ll be going to Hyundai UK and complaining, there’s no way this cable can just break where it as without interference