i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: tw2005 on December 23, 2016, 01:05:18
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Never ending work this wagon.
I believe I have Timing Chain noises? Motor seems more rattly than my hatch and there's a rythmic click or scrape noise, relative to engine speed.
I think it's in the chain area.
So, who here has had to do work o the timing chain?
Does not look like an easy job.
Any known component failures?
Just wondering if the whole ot needs replacing or is this likely a guide or tensioner issue?
Tips Please.
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@cruiserfied @nzenigma
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Have had random accounts of chain chatter. Causes ranging from chain stretch, tensioner failure, cvvt gears.
Any chain work is a large undertaking. To get chain cover off the sump and valve cover need to be removed including injectors.
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Have had random accounts of chain chatter. Causes ranging from chain stretch, tensioner failure, cvvt gears.
Any chain work is a large undertaking. To get chain cover off the sump and valve cover need to be removed including injectors.
yeah it's the valve cover, injector and I'm reading special tooling for the pump as well that I'm spooked by ATM.
Last timing chain I did was a carburettor 3K toyota in 1987
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You shouldn't have to remove the fuel pump.
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You shouldn't have to remove the fuel pump.
Do I need the special tool mentioned in the manual?
Extract from Timing chain repair section.
13. Remove the mounting bolts of the high pressure pump(A) and the fuel hoses(B, C).
14. Install the SST(high pressure pump sprocket stopper, 09331-2A000)(A) to sprocket rotating it clockwise.
15. Remove the timing chain cover bolt(three bolts)(B).
16. Install the SST(high pressure pump sprocket remover, 09331-2A000)(A) to timing chain cover with three long bolts(B).
17. Fix the high pressure pump remover(A) and sprocket stopper(C) with two fixing bolts(D).
18. Rotate the bolt(E) clockwise till high pressure pump is pushed out.
19. Remove the SST(09331-2A000) after remove the high pressure pump
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The only reason you might have to remove the fuel pump is if you cant get the chain slack enough to get it off the sprocket.
I cant remember if thats the case though.
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The only reason you might have to remove the fuel pump is if you cant get the chain slack enough to get it off the sprocket.
I cant remember if thats the case though.
I would not expect this is a common repair either. I'm considering tackling this as entire replacement of all timing components including sprockets as there appears to be complete kits.
Otherwise I'll have to dismantle, assess , order parts and then replace.
I guess if it was just guides and tensioners that would be easier, I don't think I'm lucky enough to expect that.
Does make sense if you're going to the effort to access this area, do the lot.
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Its definately not something i would wanna do twice in quick succession. Pretty sure just getting the timing cover out of the engine bay is a major PITA.
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Same thoughts here. YUK
It may eventually be easier if you lift the motor & trans out.
does the manual advise in car or out?
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Same thoughts here. YUK
It may eventually be easier if you lift the motor & trans out.
does the manual advise in car or out?
"Engine removal is not required for this procedure."
The engine mount however is removed and then supported
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Problem with supporting the engine is you need to remove sump so crank is lowest part. Need to be super careful supporting after sump is off.
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Problem with supporting the engine is you need to remove sump so crank is lowest part. Need to be super careful supporting after sump is off.
Good tip.
May have to jerry rig something like strong box section across the top and straps. Did a whole transmisson swapout on a V6 Magna like that. Amazing what you can do with ratchet straps.
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'borrow' a hydraulic engine hoist. You will fall in love with it after using all the other jerry systems.
While it isn't mentioned in the manual , remove ALL of the LH engine mount. The body recess under it gives you a lot more room to work...but still tight.
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'borrow' a hydraulic engine hoist. You will fall in love with it after using all the other jerry systems.
While it isn't mentioned in the manual , remove ALL of the LH engine mount. The body recess under it gives you a lot more room to work...but still tight.
I do have an Uncle in law if there is such a thing with an engine rebuild business however the friendship carries only so far but he has offered a hoist I just found out from she who loves it when I take her car off the road (again)
Just popped into REPCO, I love a good laugh. NASON timing kit, HYTK13, non stocked , order in. I was hoping they kept it and 30% off, anyway, $940 :crazy1: The kit has no gears.
Genuine from Korea including gears $425 + freight
Even Supercheap can order in at $500
Or unknown branded kit from the UK $280
(http://imgcdn.nason.com.au/TIMING/HYTK13_THUMB.jpg?v1)
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Or unknown branded kit from the UK $280
How do you know it's branded if it's unknown? :whistler:
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Or unknown branded kit from the UK $280
How do you know it's branded if it's unknown? :whistler:
They state the Brand as CHA, I can't find it and it's unknown to me. Do you know it?
Why are we both awake :head_butt:
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Mate, I cant track down the post where you said how many Kms this car has done. Sounds high. the other incidents :wacko:
Given the chain and other replacement costs . Why not swap the motor for a low ks one?
Re Repco: not surprised, they used to get 90% of my business. Then they became a variety store in an attempt to beat Supercheap. That was a failure, they are now my last port of call.
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Mate, I cant track down the post where you said how many Kms this car has done. Sounds high. the other incidents :wacko:
Given the chain and other replacement costs . Why not swap the motor for a low ks one?
Re Repco: not surprised, they used to get 90% of my business. Then they became a variety store in an attempt to beat Supercheap. That was a failure, they are now my last port of call.
175K, thought has crossed my mind. It runs ok, has plenty of go, nil oil consumption.
If I have to pay someone to do the chain, I'd think a complete motor would be viable. Kind of kills the cheap wagon idea.
Bit of an Enigma you could say.
maybe clock wound back or driven like a petrol and flogged a bit?
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Yep its enigmatic alright.
175,000Km is not high, in old terms bit over 100,000 miles. Nothing for a diesel.
Your description over the past month or so has given me the impression that it has had one hell of a hard life.
Maybe the first oil change was at 170,000km :wacko: Therefore you could simply have a dodgy chain tensioner or guides.
The clock wind back... maybe, that would probably require an ECU reset. Never had to do it on an i30, but normally changing the display wont change the Kms.
After a motor change, I had all sorts of trouble trying to start a Barina :spitty: until I realised that the gauges/display, body module and the ECU are an item. Swap one, swap all.
That aside, even if your car has done double the average Kms, it wont have much affect on that diesel.
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Yep its enigmatic alright.
175,000Km is not high, in old terms bit over 100,000 miles. Nothing for a diesel.
Your description over the past month or so has given me the impression that it has had one hell of a hard life.
Maybe the first oil change was at 170,000km :wacko: Therefore you could simply have a dodgy chain tensioner or guides.
The clock wind back... maybe, that would probably require an ECU reset. Never had to do it on an i30, but normally changing the display wont change the Kms.
After a motor change, I had all sorts of trouble trying to start a Barina :spitty: until I realised that the gauges/display, body module and the ECU are an item. Swap one, swap all.
That aside, even if your car has done double the average Kms, it wont have much affect on that diesel.
Interesting comments. I'll let yuou know about the cluster as I have one coming with 42000k on it. I think the mileage will be whatever is on the ODO, there is an eeprom on the back and people are advertising correction services on these so I'd say it's onboard..
I am going to try swapping the eeproms over but I am suspicious there maybe some encryption or something that matches it up with another chip onboard so you can't do this.
If it's just guides and tesioners that'd reduce the cost and make the task simpler, only way to know though is to disassemble and check how far the tensioners are extended.
I think this is why the alt belt tensioner still has a wobble due to timing chain harmonics or slap.?\
Looks like I'll be learning fasdt a fair bit about these oil burners. Rather just enjoy driving it though.
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I think this is why the alt belt tensioner still has a wobble due to timing chain harmonics or slap.?\
:Shocked: Yet another !!!! Is the tensioner causing your noise?
If in doubt strip the belts so water pump , alternator , air compressor AND the belts can't play noise games.
Does the harmonic balancer run true? If not, is it on tight, about 130 ft/lb.
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I think this is why the alt belt tensioner still has a wobble due to timing chain harmonics or slap.?\
:Shocked: Yet another !!!! Is the tensioner causing your noise?
If in doubt strip the belts so water pump , alternator , air compressor AND the belts can't play noise games.
Does the harmonic balancer run true? If not, is it on tight, about 130 ft/lb.
originally it was so bad and violent I thought it was tensioner, already reported in other thread. Was seized alt over run pulley. Still has tremors, in comparison to my 195K and the old man's 120K CRDi both of which are dead smooth.
I'll get back on the other stuff but I think it's chain, I can hear scraping noises within the timing case like the chain travelling over the guides.
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Yep its enigmatic alright.
175,000Km is not high, in old terms bit over 100,000 miles. Nothing for a diesel.
Your description over the past month or so has given me the impression that it has had one hell of a hard life.
Maybe the first oil change was at 170,000km :wacko: Therefore you could simply have a dodgy chain tensioner or guides.
The clock wind back... maybe, that would probably require an ECU reset. Never had to do it on an i30, but normally changing the display wont change the Kms.
After a motor change, I had all sorts of trouble trying to start a Barina :spitty: until I realised that the gauges/display, body module and the ECU are an item. Swap one, swap all.
That aside, even if your car has done double the average Kms, it wont have much affect on that diesel.
Interesting comments. I'll let yuou know about the cluster as I have one coming with 42000k on it. I think the mileage will be whatever is on the ODO, there is an eeprom on the back and people are advertising correction services on these so I'd say it's onboard..
I am going to try swapping the eeproms over but I am suspicious there maybe some encryption or something that matches it up with another chip onboard so you can't do this.
If it's just guides and tesioners that'd reduce the cost and make the task simpler, only way to know though is to disassemble and check how far the tensioners are extended.
I think this is why the alt belt tensioner still has a wobble due to timing chain harmonics or slap.?\
Looks like I'll be learning fasdt a fair bit about these oil burners. Rather just enjoy driving it though.
mileage stays within the cluster, can confirm if you have no other means but know how to solder electronics then removal of the single EEPROM and swapping that to the new cluster circuit board takes the old clusters data with it.
Just proved it on a 42000K cluster replaced and swapped IC, now reads 176K :goodjob:
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Thanks for that info. Why not stay at 42K...would be a reeeeeeeeeeealy unique car . :happydance:
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Thanks for that info. Why not stay at 42K...would be a reeeeeeeeeeealy unique car . :happydance:
I tried it. Still had chain rattle with 42k.always have the eeprom
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As a matter of interest, what is your mileage?
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Ive got an fai timing chain kit including gears here ready to be fitted to my car. Havent got round to it though there is a slight noise.
The tool for the fuel pump pulls the gear off the pump so u can get the lower chain and sprockets off. Not enough slack in chain to lift off the teeth on gears. The same tool also works to keep the sprocket in place if you are changing the diesel fuel pump.
It is quite an involved job from everything ive seen... my list of parts kept growing.
Chain kit with sprockets
4x injector washers
Rocker valve cover gasket
2x tube of sealer for timing cover n sump
Oil and oil filter
Aux drive belt pulley
Fuel sprocket tool from sealey
Genuine hyundai flywheel locking tool
And probably more ive forgotten.
Can't wait to read and see images of your report. I doing a complete motor /Trans swapout at the moment.
Once I get the old unit out, I'm keen to strip it to get a look at what's going on. Apart from the noise the motor is absolutely fine.
So is that the same kits getting around on the UK Ebay with the gears included?
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As a matter of interest, what is your mileage?
Yeah, what he said. :question:
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The chain kit is
FAI Autoparts - TCK79
You can also get it without the gear sprockets TCK79WO
PS. The service manager at my local dealer said they have never done a chain on an i30. However, his mechanic who helped diagnose the injector issues I had, he said they had done a 'couple' since the model came out in UK.
Like anything I guess can come down to servicing, how it's driven and there'll always a chance a small percentage of early failures
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My mileage is 90k currently.
I bought the car on 83k "one owner" but turned out to be lease car so not really driven by a caring owner (dodgy trader, but took him to court......as there were numerous issues with the car which he refused to fix or refund the value of the car).
Most of my noise and problems were injector related, but I still have a slight chain noise (not like the fords) so I got the kit anyway. Had it best part of 4-5months now and just havent found time to do it / be without transport.
I work for a uk parts supplier, we supply FAI chain kits across all brands, so it was no brainer to get that kit and at my discounted rate.
This will be probably one of these blond moments but 90K = 90 000 miles = 145000 km approx?
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Yes 145k km approx
Well that's good to know because mine is an ex lease too and had 168000K KM when I got it. Not in a great way but not dead either.
Trans is excellent for auto, no service history, but it's getting there slowly back to how it should be.
Will you be starting a specific thread on the work you do or adding it here? I'm really keen for you to post up lots of images etc on your issue>
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I can do but i have no specific plans to do it at the minute. Yeah theres a slight chain noise....doesnt sound faulty or broken but just worn with mileage. The ford engines over here sound terrible when the chain is worn and its nothing like that.
The car just passed its annual mot test and emissions were spot on but i still think the fuel miles per gallon is poor.
Same, compared to my Hatch it seems poor.
Also I notice if I just raise it above idle it's not linear or smooth but feels like the motor has a momentary imbalance.
Sounds weird but having another to compare too it's definitely different.
I wonder if the chain is stretched enough to cause valve timing issues? Poerformance wise it feels fine.
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The chain kit is
FAI Autoparts - TCK79
You can also get it without the gear sprockets TCK79WO
PS. The service manager at my local dealer said they have never done a chain on an i30. However, his mechanic who helped diagnose the injector issues I had, he said they had done a 'couple' since the model came out in UK.
If you install FAI timing chain kit i can guarantee you that it couldn't last one year of normal driving before it snaps or "stretch" as they made their kits of worst quality materials. Maybe 15.000km if you have luck.
It's a big job to do and why doing it twice?
OEM 1.6 crdi kit is made from different manufacturers.
Sprockets and tensioners are made by INA.
Guide rails and chains is made by korean manufacturer KWM.
The sound you hear is probably normal and can be heard at all likely 1.4, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 CRDi engines.
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The chain kit is
FAI Autoparts - TCK79
You can also get it without the gear sprockets TCK79WO
PS. The service manager at my local dealer said they have never done a chain on an i30. However, his mechanic who helped diagnose the injector issues I had, he said they had done a 'couple' since the model came out in UK.
If you install FAI timing chain kit i can guarantee you that it couldn't last one year of normal driving before it snaps or "stretch" as they made their kits of worst quality materials. Maybe 15.000km if you have luck.
It's a big job to do and why doing it twice?
OEM 1.6 crdi kit is made from different manufacturers.
Sprockets and tensioners are made by INA.
Guide rails and chains is made by korean manufacturer KWM.
The sound you hear is probably normal and can be heard at all likely 1.4, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 CRDi engines.
Have you used these kits before?
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Hi Tw and Jordy
The 'average mileage' a car does in Australia is 15,000-20,000km per year. The first i30s appeared almost 10 years ago.
The maths say we should have plenty of chain problems; however, it seems most of them remain trouble free.
I've not come across a rattly chain yet, although Tim may have .
The common factor with both your cars appears to be poor maintenance.
Just a punt, :wacko: upon investigation you may find worn chain guides and tensioner rather than a stretched chain.
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If you install FAI timing chain kit i can guarantee you that it couldn't last one year of normal driving before it snaps or "stretch" as they made their kits of worst quality materials. Maybe 15.000km if you have luck.
It's a big job to do and why doing it twice?
OEM 1.6 crdi kit is made from different manufacturers.
Sprockets and tensioners are made by INA.
Guide rails and chains is made by korean manufacturer KWM.
The sound you hear is probably normal and can be heard at all likely 1.4, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 CRDi engines.
Hi Diesel1984,
I assume from ("likely 1.4, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 CRDi engines") that you are in Europe/Britain.
Are you a parts supplier or mechanic?
I ask this because , like me, you do not seem to have come across problem i30 chains.
I also take on face value, your comments about the FAI chain. Thanks.
Having had a brief but unfortunate association with Nissan Navaras I appreciate the issue of substandard after market timing chains. Mind you the Navara engine was substandard junk when Renault :spitty: created the thing.
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Hi Diesel1984,
I assume from ("likely 1.4, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 CRDi engines") that you are in Europe/Britain.
Are you a parts supplier or mechanic?
Hi.
All hyundai/kia engines 1.1-1.7 crdi have the same timing system. Same timing chain kit also can be installed at 1.1 and 1.7 engine.
right.
I never seen any crdi engine that needs chain change or snapped/stretched chain.
Also all 1.6 crdi engines have that sliding metal sound that is coming from timing chain area.
This sound is timing chain that is rolling on timing chain cover-bolt housing.
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/Sitni-AB/Getz/IMG_20150306_211005_zpscuwfzslk.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/Sitni-AB/Getz/c5592bb7-72cf-4fc6-b1f0-c17894cc8b19_zpsqu9swsm0.jpg)
This picture is when new chain/tensioner is installed.. Found this on internet this is not mine...
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/Sitni-AB/Getz/IMG_20150313_115400_zps0ugx99u1.jpg)
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Hi Diesel1984,
I assume from ("likely 1.4, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 CRDi engines") that you are in Europe/Britain.
Are you a parts supplier or mechanic?
Hi.
All hyundai/kia engines 1.1-1.7 crdi have the same timing system. Same timing chain kit also can be installed at 1.1 and 1.7 engine.
right.
I never seen any crdi engine that needs chain change or snapped/stretched chain.
Also all 1.6 crdi engines have that sliding metal sound that is coming from timing chain area.
This sound is timing chain that is rolling on timing chain cover-bolt housing.
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/Sitni-AB/Getz/IMG_20150306_211005_zpscuwfzslk.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/Sitni-AB/Getz/c5592bb7-72cf-4fc6-b1f0-c17894cc8b19_zpsqu9swsm0.jpg)
This picture is when new chain/tensioner is installed.. Found this on internet this is not mine...
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/Sitni-AB/Getz/IMG_20150313_115400_zps0ugx99u1.jpg)
Ok, I partially understand but still confused . Thanks for the images, certainly makes understanding what potentially happens with a stretch.
So you said "I never seen any crdi engine that needs chain change or snapped/stretched chain"
But you presented an image with the chain stretched and the tensioner fully extended?
Or is the comment not my image apply to that as well?
"Also all 1.6 crdi engines have that sliding metal sound that is coming from timing chain area.
This sound is timing chain that is rolling on timing chain cover-bolt housing. "
But you have an image of a new kit and the chain is nowhere near that bolt hole?
What am I not getting here?
Obviously there's noises and NOISES.
I know for sure my Wagon is not normal .
I will find out eventually so I will put up images when I get there.
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OK.
This is the sound when the chain is completely stretched. Probably very long oil service, clogged oil lines. :mrgreen:
:link: Kia Rio CRDI Engine Noise (HELP) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJkKaShNwLw)
This is normal sound of sliding timing chain (43. sec)
:link: Engine sound CRDi 1,5VGT 110hp, 235 torque, 2007ear. - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57ljg2NpdMY)
I seen 1.6 crdi with 30.000km and 1.6 crdi with 315.000km+. Both have this sliding chain noise and they have it for a long time, and for a long time this noise is not changing to higher sounds like chain rattling from first video.
CRDI timing system is "noise free" few thousand km from when is brand new.
After some time this "noise" can be heard and "noise" is sliding of timing chain on chain cover.
light scraping chain on alluminium housing is not dangerous as it acts like guide and does not cause cracking or stretching chain.
Not sure what happened with this engine on pics.. As i said found them on googlee
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OK.
This is the sound when the chain is completely stretched. Probably very long oil service, clogged oil lines. :mrgreen:
:link: Kia Rio CRDI Engine Noise (HELP) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJkKaShNwLw)
This is normal sound of sliding timing chain (43. sec)
:link: Engine sound CRDi 1,5VGT 110hp, 235 torque, 2007ear. - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57ljg2NpdMY)
I seen 1.6 crdi with 30.000km and 1.6 crdi with 315.000km+. Both have this sliding chain noise and they have it for a long time, and for a long time this noise is not changing to higher sounds like chain rattling from first video.
CRDI timing system is "noise free" few thousand km from when is brand new.
After some time this "noise" can be heard and "noise" is sliding of timing chain on chain cover.
light scraping chain on alluminium housing is not dangerous as it acts like guide and does not cause cracking or stretching chain.
Not sure what happened with this engine on pics.. As i said found them on googlee
Well the last is what my 195000k sounds like. The first one sounds like the chain hard up against metal as you said.
I may have to attempt my own recording from cold. Not sure if it will be discenable or not but does not fit with either of those.
maybe I have defective tensioners but chain is not stretched out like your images?
Can anything worthwhile be seen from that access cover near the top?
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If you remove injectors and rocker cover.. maybe you can see small part of system
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If you remove injectors and rocker cover.. maybe you can see small part of system
I'll wait until the engine is out. Did a quick video but rediculous size, trying to work out how to you tube it. 140Mb!
Probably does sound more like first video but I'll do another in the morning as there's a few extra special noises it can make
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Ok, here it is in the raw, part 1
:link: Hyundai i30CW D4FB chain noise - YouTube (https://youtu.be/IrUt9_HTMNE?t=3s)
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Sounds perfectly normal to me, no sliding or rattling. Hard to tell if any noise coming from chain area
Looks like you have too long serpentine belt. Too much slack on belt is causing tensioner to bounce like this.
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Sounds perfectly normal to me, no sliding or rattling. Hard to tell if any noise coming from chain area
Looks like you have too long serpentine belt. Too much slack on belt is causing tensioner to bounce like this.
I was afraid you'd say that. It's not easy to pick noises with all the clatter but I can hear a rythmic clunk, clunk ..............clunk,clunk...............clunk,clunk in the background. Only just, but that's because I'm listening for it.
The belt is new and the correct length at 1811 which is what the OEM fitted to this is. The problem existed with the old belt which was genuine and with the new . I even fitted the old belt to my hatch and does not tremor plus on the hatch I believe I had a belt which probably was a bit long (new)and it had no tremor. It's not the belt.
You should have seen it with the seized over run pulley. It was hammering that's how violent it was. SO much so that I thought the tensioner was stuffed which it was not. Always smarter after the fact but would preferred not to spend $$ to figure that one out.
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Well there are 4 sizes of aux belt on d4fb. 1800,1805,1810 and 1815. Lenght of the belt deppends on tensioner puĺley size. Oem size is of that pulley is fi65 on mine.
M n was also doing the same thing with 1815 belt. After changing it with conti 1800 bouncing of tensioner arm stabilised to almost none. Car was vibration free after putting the right belt also. And yes oem belt was 1801 without upper idler roller.
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Thanks for your Images etc Diesel.
To repeat myself, I haven't come across a Hyundai with the extreme noise of the first image. You have a similar theory too regarding poor servicing.
The regular Australian service may be a clue.
Not sure about the terms of sale of new Hyundai's in Europe, but here they come with a 5 year warranty, Kia's have 7 years. To maintain the warranty the owner has to have regular services logged for the 5-7 years.
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It's not the belt.
You should have seen it with the seized over run pulley. It was hammering that's how violent it was. SO much so that I thought the tensioner was stuffed which it was not. Always smarter after the fact but would preferred not to spend $$ to figure that one out.
It looks like the tensioner is a bit oval or (more likely) the bolt is bent.
Easy way to test,..... swaps.
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Well there are 4 sizes of aux belt on d4fb. 1800,1805,1810 and 1815. Lenght of the belt deppends on tensioner puĺley size. Oem size is of that pulley is fi65 on mine.
M n was also doing the same thing with 1815 belt. After changing it with conti 1800 bouncing of tensioner arm stabilised to almost none. Car was vibration free after putting the right belt also. And yes oem belt was 1801 without upper idler roller.
OEM for mine is 5pk1811 or 252122A310
(http://www.hyundai-parts.com.ua/image/cache/data/logo_parts/252122a310-1-600x600_0.JPG)
(http://i.imgur.com/AqYUMal.jpg)
Belt is new,both idlers are new, nothing felt abnormal on the water pump or the A/C clutch pulley, tensioner new genuine, I've already played swapsies. The over run clutch is new but not genuine.
I even put a slightly larger diameter pulley on the tensioner which is similar to using a shorter belt, same same.
One thing I noticed with this other motor I've pulled, the OEM clutch pulley seems to have less resistance in the released direction .
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The vibration of the pulley looks really strange. I've never seen anything like that in my car. I sort of heard some low clunks, but I need to listen that again with good headphones, my phone speaker sucks big time.
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You can eliminate the clunking sound if you fire the engine without the belt installed. Of course not for a long time.
If the sound is still present then you know that it is not up to the alternator, belt, ac compressor, idler roller, alt pulley, water pump.
smal possibility.. it can be the crank pulley that is disintegrated from the rubber part