[rcflyers]

I have a 2009 Hyundai i30 1.6 CRDi.
On the auxilary belt drive system one of the pulleys is the spring loaded tensioner pulley.
Does anyone know what tool I need to put in centre of the pulley so I can release the tension to change the belt please?
Thank you.

[Lorian]

I recall I used a long allen key, but anything of the right diameter that fits will do.

you might find my scraped together document I made before I did mine usefull reference. other peoples diagrams, doubt any are (c).

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middle pic shows where the tool goes. turns in an arc. its not in the middle of the pulley its below it!

my notes say turn clockwise to slacken but now I look at it I'd think it was anti-clockwise. It has quite a hefty spring action.

[tw2005]

14mm socket on the hex head  that's part of the casting, 450mm breaker bar , 3mm drill, rod or allen should fit into the locking hole.

Could 13mm but 14mm sounds familar

[nzenigma]

  14mm

[sundiz]

Locking the tensioner with drill bit after you have taken the tension out with 14mm socket and ratchet is optional. It might help putting the belt back on but getting the lock pin in is a pain in the butt. I often just use long ratchet and take the belt off and let the tensioner just go to the one end. Only issue is the long tool is often necessary as there is quite a lot of tension in the tensioner. Long tool is just difficult to move as there are lot of hoses over the rensioner and if you don't use lock pin the tensioner moves a lot when letting it loose again. I bought telescopic ratchet just for this job. The tension looses when you push towards the windshield, when the ratchet is placed on the "bolt" which is casted in the tensioner frame. (ratchet is upside down).

[Dazzler]

Great work you lot! Who needs a service centre when you've got this forum! 

[rcflyers]

Thanks for all the replies.

[Lorian]

Locking the tensioner with drill bit after you have taken the tension out with 14mm socket and ratchet is optional. It might help putting the belt back on but getting the lock pin in is a pain in the butt. I often just use long ratchet and take the belt off and let the tensioner just go to the one end. Only issue is the long tool is often necessary as there is quite a lot of tension in the tensioner. Long tool is just difficult to move as there are lot of hoses over the rensioner and if you don't use lock pin the tensioner moves a lot when letting it loose again. I bought telescopic ratchet just for this job. The tension looses when you push towards the windshield, when the ratchet is placed on the "bolt" which is casted in the tensioner frame. (ratchet is upside down).

Your memory better than mine I forgot all about turning it with the socket. Sign of age.

[BrendanP]

I recently replaced the drive belt for the second time, at about 178,000 miles. I found it easier not to lock the tensioner in position with a drill bit or similar. It's quite fiddly to get the new belt around all the pulleys especially as it is still quite stiff. Being able to easily apply and remove the tension makes it easier to go around each pulley in turn and move the belt across so the ribs in the belt sit in the correct grooves in the pulley.

The original factory belt was replaced at about 110,000 miles, after the dealer commented on the fine cracking in the belt. I kept this belt to carry as an emergency spare. I replaced it with a Continental belt, but after another 68,000 miles, it was in a much worse condition that the original belt, with wider cracks and chunks missing from the ribs. The new belt is Dayco, hopefully it will outlast the car.

[Dazzler]

Thanks Brendan interesting..

[Paolo39]

Recently changed the belt myself. Can confirm it is 14mm

[rcflyers]

Many thanks