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Brake parts

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Offline chrisdarl

  • 2nd Gear
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    • Posts: 34

    • gb United Kingdom
      Bristol
I own a 2013 GD i30. My drivers side disk has been binding and got pretty hot the other day so going to replace the discs, pads and calipers. I have the variant with 16" wheels, I have looked up my car using VIN on partsouq but I'm pretty sure the parts are for the 15" wheels. Does anyone know if these are the same parts or know of the correct ones?

Mintex seems to list two different size options 280mm and 300mm (I know I should really measure.....)

Thanks in advance!
  • 2013 GD 5 Door Hatch, Diesel 1.6lt, Manual, Silver - start stop, Blue drive


Offline CraigB

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    • Posts: 11,011

    • au Australia
      Perth, WA
If you want to be sure it's better to measure, there can be differences between countries.

No need for new callipers, pads and service kit should be all that is required, has the disc thickness been measured? they could possibly be serviced/skimmed also  :undecided:


Offline josh1990

  • 3rd Gear
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    • Posts: 175

    • au Australia
      NSW
Definitely measure. My GD has 16" wheels factory but needed 280mm rotors. Trace the pads for the rear as you can't rely on the electric handbrake/manual handbrake


Offline chrisdarl

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 34

    • gb United Kingdom
      Bristol
If you want to be sure it's better to measure, there can be differences between countries.

No need for new callipers, pads and service kit should be all that is required, has the disc thickness been measured? they could possibly be serviced/skimmed also  :undecided:

I replaced the disks only last year <10k miles ago, mostly motorway. Called the RAC out the other day as drivers disc was piping hot, he pulled released the calliper and said that there was a little rust on the piston and that I should replace the callipers, discs and pads as they'll likely be hardened from the heat??
  • 2013 GD 5 Door Hatch, Diesel 1.6lt, Manual, Silver - start stop, Blue drive


Offline chrisdarl

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 34

    • gb United Kingdom
      Bristol
Definitely measure. My GD has 16" wheels factory but needed 280mm rotors. Trace the pads for the rear as you can't rely on the electric handbrake/manual handbrake

Thanks, good to know. a little confused, why am I tracing the rear pads? I'm replacing the front...
  • 2013 GD 5 Door Hatch, Diesel 1.6lt, Manual, Silver - start stop, Blue drive


Offline BrendanP

  • Technical Advisor
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    • Posts: 456

    • gb United Kingdom
      East Midlands
When I've had the brakes binding, I've found it's the caliper glide pins that are the culprit. If you undo the caliper retaining bolts and lift the caliper away, the glide pins should pull out of the yoke that holds the pads in place. If they're dry or starting to corrode the caliper can bind on them. I've bought replacement pins from Frentech and not had any problems with them. Make sure you only use the special grease supplied for lubricating them. They're not expensive compared to discs and pads. The other problem can be the pads sticking in the yoke. The pads slide in thin steel shims. Take the pads and shims out so you can get a wire brush onto the yoke to clean rust and scale off under where the shims sit. If you let it build up, it will push the shims inwards so they pinch the 'ears' on the pads that slide along the shims. Then, clean all the muck off the shims. With some pads, like Pagid and original Hyundai, new shims are supplied with the pads. When assembled, check the pads don't bind in the yoke. Sometimes you may have to file the corners and edges of the pad backplate in case it has sharp edges that dig in. The original Hyundai parts are much better than cheap pattern parts in that respect.
  • i30 CRD


Offline josh1990

  • 3rd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 175

    • au Australia
      NSW
Definitely measure. My GD has 16" wheels factory but needed 280mm rotors. Trace the pads for the rear as you can't rely on the electric handbrake/manual handbrake

Thanks, good to know. a little confused, why am I tracing the rear pads? I'm replacing the front...
Sorry assumed you were doing the whole lot


Offline BrendanP

  • Technical Advisor
  • *
    • Posts: 456

    • gb United Kingdom
      East Midlands
If you want to be sure it's better to measure, there can be differences between countries.

No need for new callipers, pads and service kit should be all that is required, has the disc thickness been measured? they could possibly be serviced/skimmed also  :undecided:

I replaced the disks only last year <10k miles ago, mostly motorway. Called the RAC out the other day as drivers disc was piping hot, he pulled released the calliper and said that there was a little rust on the piston and that I should replace the callipers, discs and pads as they'll likely be hardened from the heat??
If you want to be sure it's better to measure, there can be differences between countries.

No need for new callipers, pads and service kit should be all that is required, has the disc thickness been measured? they could possibly be serviced/skimmed also  :undecided:

I replaced the disks only last year <10k miles ago, mostly motorway. Called the RAC out the other day as drivers disc was piping hot, he pulled released the calliper and said that there was a little rust on the piston and that I should replace the callipers, discs and pads as they'll likely be hardened from the heat??
Of course the caliper piston is going to have some rust on it or at least, on the bits you can see. It's exposed to moisture and road salt, but that doesn't matter. It's the bit of piston behind the dust seal that's important, and to see that you'd have to peel off the seal and push the piston out. I'm pretty sure your RAC guy didn't do any of that. Last time I stripped a caliper down the piston was in pristine condition. If the disc has overheated it may have turned blue and become warped, but I still maintain the most likely reason for a disc brake to bind is the caliper jamming on the glide pins.
  • i30 CRD


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