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2011 i30 1.4 CW engine failure due chain issue at 120 000km

Henri · 112 · 27578

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Offline Henri

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Hello,
Worst happened and the chain did jump over the sprocket teeth and major engine failure is evident. My last lesson learned was that when idle is lost, don't try to hill start from speed,  not at least with gear 1. Engine cranks but noises are evil.

Now plan is to remove the engine cylinder head and see what is happened expecting bent valves as a minimum.
I've done timing belt changes to Audi 1.6, Toyota 1.6 few types and also some old Nissan what I remember but never Hyundai or any chain engine. Is there something special good-to-know things besides normal technical engine structures? Consider me as experienced DIY mechanics. I've studied as car mechanics for 3 years and done 20 years for all own car repairs and some friends cars too.

The plan is to open the engine and do it DIY and let the valve fitting/head assembly to be done by a friend who tunes rally engines. I'm just wondering if there is some very special tool needed or is there any "mines" laid such as Ford compressed camshaft sprocket type things which requires the whole shaft to be replaced if sprocket is bad.

Engine compartment seems to have plenty of room and quite easy to open but what to expect from the inside...
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline nzenigma

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Sorry to hear this. We don't have that motor down under, it is petrol???
 The pre 2016 VWs down here apparently have the same vulnerability with hill starts.
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Offline Henri

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Sorry to hear this. We don't have that motor down under, it is petrol???
 The pre 2016 VWs down here apparently have the same vulnerability with hill starts.

Hi and thanks for reply. It is petrol engine.
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline Henri

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I think correct type is 1.4 CVVT. No turbo and very basic in general.
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Offline Dazzler

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I think correct type is 1.4 CVVT. No turbo and very basic in general.

We never had that motor in our i30's in Australia where our two main Technical Advisors are located, although if it helps I am fairly certain it is the same motor used in the lower spec Getz from 2006 over here. We have a couple of semi regular tech heads from Europe that may see this post and be able to help given time.  :fingers:
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Offline tw2005

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Are you saying you attempted a clutch start at speed and dumped the clutch into 1st gear and that's how this happened?
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Offline Surferdude

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Are you saying you attempted a clutch start at speed and dumped the clutch into 1st gear and that's how this happened?
I think he did the clutch start after the chain slipped.

I did  something similar in my Datto.
Got a belly full of water in a creek crossing, through the air filters and Webber's.
Stalled and trying to start it just produced a click.
Thought the battery was flat so we pushed it out of the creek and up a gentle slope then ran it back down the hill and jump started it in reverse?
Bent two rods, one badly enough to score the bore.
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Offline tw2005

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2441025001



243502B000 or 243502B010 this changed early 2011



242212B000





:link: New Genuine FAI Timing Chain Kit TCK203VVT Top Quality | eBay



VALVE - INTAKE [222112B400]



VALVE - EXHAUST [222122B000]



GUIDE - CHAIN [244312B000]



TENSIONER ARM ASSY [244202B000]



SPROCKET - CRANKSHAFT [231212B000]







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Offline Henri

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Are you saying you attempted a clutch start at speed and dumped the clutch into 1st gear and that's how this happened?

In detail it went like this:
- My wife told me that the car makes some weird noise sometimes but she couldn't identify what it was. I tried my best to narrow more and found it is not brakes and wheels
- I started to drive with this car as a daily basis to work to find out what it can be
- once after 60km trip motor fault light, the yellow one - not oil, lid and I think the car had kind of power loss but worked quite ok anyway. I thought it may be some fault safety mode active. Only engine symptom was slightly waving idle but not bad. I didn't have experience how this car works when it was ok
- I continued driving for few days while ordered ODB2 reader was coming and the car was the same all these days
- Once when I left to work car lost idle completely and it did run quite poor but still was running without any evil noise
- Next time I was stopping to crossroad I hill started just before car stop and that was the final hit

Still, ODB2 reader has not arrived but I guess light came to report I have timing error. I was not more cautious about the light because I have half year period of fault hunting with my Audi and motor fault light was kind of "normal" minor fault report for me. It was second lambda and vacuum leak combined on Audi. Furthermore, I didn't have experience of how this car performed normally.

Now I know how this could have been avoided and would recognize chain error symptoms. Also as a second thought, I remember this car had quite a rough sound when we bought it 18000 km ago. But I thought it is normal because the car has the label from authorized service just before we bought it. I couldn't even think it can have such common symptoms because it has been in hands of professional Hyundai mechanics.
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline tw2005

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It's a tough one. You'd have to check if there is any recommended or mandatory replacement of the timing system as part of routine servicing.

I'd consider 120000K premature for a chain system but I'm guessing likely the tensioner failed.

Not a design I've seen before.



If it's logbook serviced may be worth a shot of out of wty claim, not sure what consumer laws you have.

Only thing against you is likely the fact it was making funny noises and it was still driven.

Real unlucky

Would wonder with all the work and parts involved if a used low K engine is a viable option
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Offline Henri

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It's a tough one. You'd have to check if there is any recommended or mandatory replacement of the timing system as part of routine servicing.

I'd consider 120000K premature for a chain system but I'm guessing likely the tensioner failed.

Not a design I've seen before.



If it's logbook serviced may be worth a shot of out of wty claim, not sure what consumer laws you have.

Only thing against you is likely the fact it was making funny noises and it was still driven.

Real unlucky

Would wonder with all the work and parts involved if a used low K engine is a viable option

Thanks TW2005, these help a lot!
Our law favors a customer and importer/dealer opinion is that about half of the repair would be covered maximum. It is in line with my earlier experiences with friends dealing with car issues. These follow consumer protection recommendations.

However, I planned to repair it myself because there is always a risk they charge the whole repair from me because of the reasons you told too. It would end up long argumentation who is responsible and how.

For me based on those images you sent, this looks that structure is simple and traditional.

Do you have maintenance book pages for this procedure? Tightening torques etc. I need to find as a minimum. All info no matter how small helps.
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline Henri

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This seems to be partial set without Stefa and some sprocket. Is some important missing on this?

:link: FAI AutoParts Jakoketjusarja ilman tiivisteitä (TCK203NG)

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Offline Henri

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Camshaft sprocket and sfefa are missing on that cheaper FAI bundle. With these kilometers, camshaft sprocket should be fine.
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Offline tw2005

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I saw various levels of kit. can't advise other than help with OEM numbers.

Likely have the procedure, you'll have to wait another day for that or someone else out there may have the manual.

I am wondering about the sprocket setup with VVT, maybe @nzenigma has some experience.

getting late for me to start dumping images from the guides, takes a lot of my time to do so.  :sleeping:
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Offline tw2005

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Camshaft sprocket and sfefa are missing on that cheaper FAI bundle. With these kilometers, camshaft sprocket should be fine.
have you stripped it yet? Unknown could be teeth damage. It's going to be one of those jobs that may grow in size as you get in there especially the valves. I've been in a situation with a DOHC 24 valve V6 and what appeared to be about 10 valves ended up at 19 or 20 of the 24 bent plus head damage and welding, machining, etc etc.

I'd stick to quality brands or OEM though for the bits.
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Offline Henri

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I saw various levels of kit. can't advise other than help with OEM numbers.

Likely have the procedure, you'll have to wait another day for that or someone else out there may have the manual.

I am wondering about the sprocket setup with VVT, maybe @nzenigma has some experience.

getting late for me to start dumping images from the guides, takes a lot of my time to do so.  :sleeping:

I'm not in hurry with this. I start disassembly on the weekend and then order needed parts. It would take 1 - 2 weeks to arrive. If you have repair shop manual pages and are willing to share them, I will compensate (Paypal) reasonably your effort. General repair manual would cost something anyway and do not cover that deeply.
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline nzenigma

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Sorry Henri, I haven't had experience here, Im guessing that your motor is the same as our 1.6 L motor bought out in late FDs. Possibly related to the 1.8L motor in the later GD.
If that is the case the repair manual is available (disc) on ebay for $10
 
It is a reliable motor and your problem is not recorded.

I would suggest you strip it down and find the damage, I agree that being low Ks, its not necessary to buy extensive kits.
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Offline Henri

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Sorry Henri, I haven't had experience here, Im guessing that your motor is the same as our 1.6 L motor bought out in late FDs. Possibly related to the 1.8L motor in the later GD.
If that is the case the repair manual is available (disc) on ebay for $10
 
It is a reliable motor and your problem is not recorded.

I would suggest you strip it down and find the damage, I agree that being low Ks, its not necessary to buy extensive kits.

I found repair manual you referred. It comes from Australia and takes 2-3 weeks to arrive. For online downloadable pdf I'd be glad to pay triple if it is genuine and real for this engine. There seems to be several scam sites offering this too but those looks like the trap asking all Visa numbers.
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline tw2005

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Sorry Henri, I haven't had experience here, Im guessing that your motor is the same as our 1.6 L motor bought out in late FDs. Possibly related to the 1.8L motor in the later GD.
If that is the case the repair manual is available (disc) on ebay for $10
 
It is a reliable motor and your problem is not recorded.

I would suggest you strip it down and find the damage, I agree that being low Ks, its not necessary to buy extensive kits.
geez mate, ruining an enterprise opportunity, I was going charge at least $100 :lol:
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Offline nzenigma

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Sorry Henri, I haven't had experience here, Im guessing that your motor is the same as our 1.6 L motor bought out in late FDs. Possibly related to the 1.8L motor in the later GD.
If that is the case the repair manual is available (disc) on ebay for $10
 
It is a reliable motor and your problem is not recorded.

I would suggest you strip it down and find the damage, I agree that being low Ks, its not necessary to buy extensive kits.
geez mate, ruining an enterprise opportunity, I was going charge at least $100 :lol:

Yes, He did mention scam sites  :evil:
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Offline tw2005

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Sorry Henri, I haven't had experience here, Im guessing that your motor is the same as our 1.6 L motor bought out in late FDs. Possibly related to the 1.8L motor in the later GD.
If that is the case the repair manual is available (disc) on ebay for $10
 
It is a reliable motor and your problem is not recorded.

I would suggest you strip it down and find the damage, I agree that being low Ks, its not necessary to buy extensive kits.
geez mate, ruining an enterprise opportunity, I was going charge at least $100 :lol:

Yes, He did mention scam sites  :evil:
PM your way on another topic. :evil:
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Offline tw2005

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Henri, I'll get there eventually :goodjob2:
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Offline Henri

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Offline nzenigma

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To answer you question; my antivirus( Bitdefender ) blocked it.  :whistler:
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Offline Henri

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To answer you question; my antivirus( Bitdefender ) blocked it.  :whistler:

Cool! If it looks too good to be true, it is not true. It is sad that 90% of Google first page hits on this topic are the scam. Or perhaps I smell easy target.

So back to the beginning to search at least cylinder head bolt tightening torques.
  • 2011 i30 CW 1.4


Offline Henri

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I checked that with Scamadviser and it looks to be real and not scam. This site seems to offer Paypal option which scam sites never offer. I think it is ok, Australian based owner with real looking name and address.






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Offline tw2005

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you don't need to pay a cent in fact if you have a laptop to spare and create a new user account, dowload the GDS software because the manual is incorporated in that. Torrent files

Only issue is if you do all the updates they built in an annoying feature that detects the software has not been updated. it is large and slow to load

Or there was a Virtual machine image with it loaded I think I paid $15
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Offline nzenigma

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To answer you question; my antivirus( Bitdefender ) blocked it.  :whistler:

Cool! If it looks too good to be true, it is not true. It is sad that 90% of Google first page hits on this topic are the scam. Or perhaps I smell easy target.

So back to the beginning to search at least cylinder head bolt tightening torques.

It is rare for Bitdefender to react like that so leave it if you just need basic pages and torque . I can knock up a few pdf pages that will cover what you need.
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Offline nzenigma

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What Gerard is suggesting is better , it is a huge file, but you will have everything you did and didn't want..
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Offline CraigB

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To answer you question; my antivirus( Bitdefender ) blocked it.  :whistler:
Bitdefender is known for being overzealous, I tested the page and all is fine :goodjob2:

Test results to which Bitdefender shows clean :D

:link: VirusTotal
« Last Edit: August 31, 2018, 11:34:58 by CraigB »


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