[Jarlef]

The heater only blows cold or slightly warm air. Also, there's a whining noise comming from the engine. I only hear it when engine speed is above 1500 rev/min and it changes with speed.

I have run radiator cleaner through the system, just in case.
I have changed coolant
I have removed the thermostat just for a while, but the heater remains cold.
I have verified that the heater actuator opens the air dampers when heater is set to hot
I noticed a metal tube connected to the radiator inside the cupe (driver side. center console)  turns really hot while engine running

Do I need to replace waterpump, or could it be something else ?

[tw2005]

The heater only blows cold or slightly warm air. Also, there's a whining noise comming from the engine. I only hear it when engine speed is above 1500 rev/min and it changes with speed.

I have run radiator cleaner through the system, just in case.
I have changed coolant
I have removed the thermostat just for a while, but the heater remains cold.
I have verified that the heater actuator opens the air dampers when heater is set to hot
I noticed a metal tube connected to the radiator inside the cupe (driver side. center console)  turns really hot while engine running

Do I need to replace waterpump, or could it be something else ?

There's a few variables here I'll run through my thoughts on each.
Radiator cleaner, helpful but if it's blocked somewhere it's unlikely going to fix it.
changing coolant - not going to chang the state of things eiether but beneficial long term.
Removing the thermostat - only going to make things colder, not a great idea for the engine long term. If it was faulty and stuck open that would have the engine running cold and could affect the heater  efficiency.

Was it stuck open?, Where  does teh temp gauge sit normally when driving? Is it heating as fast as normal?

DO you get wild variations whilst driving stop / start with the gauge?

all those could be symptoms of an open thermostat, you had it out did you check it?

One that is stuck closed or restricted, I'd expect you have an overheating engine.

SInce it was out, would have been a good time for a new one as you had done all the hard work.

Water pump - if not working you'd have an overheating engine pretty quick I'd think, if worn could start leaking fron the casing or noisy.

Whining noise, could be anything . If it appears off the drive belt side you have the pump, the tensioner pulley bearings, the idler pulley bearings , alternator bearings and the A/C compressor.

Is the AC on when it whines? If it is, does it go away when it's off?

Remove the drive belt , spin the individual items by hand and see if tehy feel free and quiet or  noisy and binding?

I'm assuming by radiator inside centre console we're talking about the Heater core.

One side really hot, good sign the coolant is also hot and arriving at the core, is the other pipe hot indicating flow through the core?

alternatively you should be able to locate the 2 pipes/hoses in the firewall that go directly to the core.

are they both hot, you could remove both and put a hose in the core pipes and flush with water to confirm the core is not blocked.

The flap opens, is ther normal air flow with the fan on at all sped settings?

How many K's has the car done?

 

[mickd]

The heater only blows cold or slightly warm air. Also, there's a whining noise comming from the engine. I only hear it when engine speed is above 1500 rev/min and it changes with speed.

I have run radiator cleaner through the system, just in case.
I have changed coolant
I have removed the thermostat just for a while, but the heater remains cold.
I have verified that the heater actuator opens the air dampers when heater is set to hot
I noticed a metal tube connected to the radiator inside the cupe (driver side. center console)  turns really hot while engine running

Do I need to replace waterpump, or could it be something else ?

There's a few variables here I'll run through my thoughts on each.
Radiator cleaner, helpful but if it's blocked somewhere it's unlikely going to fix it.
changing coolant - not going to chang the state of things eiether but beneficial long term.
Removing the thermostat - only going to make things colder, not a great idea for the engine long term. If it was faulty and stuck open that would have the engine running cold and could affect the heater  efficiency.

Was it stuck open?, Where  does teh temp gauge sit normally when driving? Is it heating as fast as normal?

DO you get wild variations whilst driving stop / start with the gauge?

all those could be symptoms of an open thermostat, you had it out did you check it?

One that is stuck closed or restricted, I'd expect you have an overheating engine.

SInce it was out, would have been a good time for a new one as you had done all the hard work.

Water pump - if not working you'd have an overheating engine pretty quick I'd think, if worn could start leaking fron the casing or noisy.

Whining noise, could be anything . If it appears off the drive belt side you have the pump, the tensioner pulley bearings, the idler pulley bearings , alternator bearings and the A/C compressor.

Is the AC on when it whines? If it is, does it go away when it's off?

Remove the drive belt , spin the individual items by hand and see if tehy feel free and quiet or  noisy and binding?

I'm assuming by radiator inside centre console we're talking about the Heater core.

One side really hot, good sign the coolant is also hot and arriving at the core, is the other pipe hot indicating flow through the core?

alternatively you should be able to locate the 2 pipes/hoses in the firewall that go directly to the core.

are they both hot, you could remove both and put a hose in the core pipes and flush with water to confirm the core is not blocked.

The flap opens, is ther normal air flow with the fan on at all sped settings?

How many K's has the car done?

 

That's you spent for the day, go take a well deserved nap.   

[nzenigma]

 

Mate a lot of work and dont mean to be rude, but I think you just leave a trail of confusion, for a novice, when doing this.

 Would have been simpler to just say .... you should be able to locate the 2 pipes/hoses in the firewall that go directly to the core.

then trace to or from the blockage.

[tw2005]

I like to speak in volumes. 

[nzenigma]

I like to speak in volumes. 

Apparently  composing short PM

[Jarlef]

Thanks. I now believe the water pump is worn, but not broken.
Because, if I turn off the heater for 5 minutes or more while the engine is hot and running and then turn it on full heat, it blows hot air. Not as hot as is should, but hot. Then after a few minutes the heater blows less hot, almost cold. The engine temperature is normal and always below 90C. The engine has done about 230000 km and the water pump has never been replaced

Any thoughts on this?

[tw2005]

Thanks. I now believe the water pump is worn, but not broken.
Because, if I turn off the heater for 5 minutes or more while the engine is hot and running and then turn it on full heat, it blows hot air. Not as hot as is should, but hot. Then after a few minutes the heater blows less hot, almost cold. The engine temperature is normal and always below 90C. The engine has done about 230000 km and the water pump has never been replaced

Any thoughts on this?

Not really without some kind of information on what has been proven ok.

Did you prove water can flow freely through the heater core?

90 is mid point on the temp dial, we don't have our marked as such but I'm pretty sure mine sits bang on halfway or ever so marginally below. I'll check it today when I head to work.

Having it hot and then bleed off temp suggests there is insufficient flow through the core.

Is this whilst stationary ? Is the car temp dial still in the same spot , never drops?

Can't comment on a faulty pump really. never had a vehicle where it was not pumping correctly and not overheating, and I'm not sure if being diesel if that changes anything.

Nothing more from me at this point,.

@nzenigma  2nd opinion

[nzenigma]

EXACTLY THE SAME FROM ME

In 'War and Pieces' above, Gerard made a valid point about the pump. You probably missed this. If pump is not working efficiently- engine over heats. It does not get cooler.

You say engine runs at normal temperature. Therefore, thermostat and pump are oK

This sound like a blocked hose or heater core , or somewhere in that region. As I indicated, while engine is running at temp, look for a hot pipe in and cold pipe out.

[nzenigma]

in case we are missing the obvious, do you have climate control? Have you checked that air con is not in operation?

CHECK that compressor clutch is disengaged.

[eye30]

Just a thought......

Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.

[tw2005]

Just a thought......

Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.

What valves?

[nzenigma]

Just a thought......

Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.

What valves?

What thought?

[tw2005]

Just a thought......

Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.

What valves?

What thought?

Wotif

[AlanHo]

WTF...............

[tw2005]

WTF...............

Nice 

I guess the.........

The heat is on, on the street
Inside your head, on every beat
And the beat's so loud, deep inside
The pressure's high, just to stay alive
'Cause the heat is on

Harold Faltermeyer / Keith Forsey

That was for @nzenigma just in case he asks for more lyrics

[nzenigma]

Give us the beat, the beat is pumping
Stomping and thumping
Slamming and jumping
 ( deee-light)

[eye30]

Just a thought......

Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.

What valves?

Ok

When my heater failed to direct the heat from cabin to window the garage told me that a wire had come loose/away from a connector behind the dash.

This was reset seated and all the direction flows worked as intended.

[eye30]

Just a thought......

Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.

What valves?

What thought?

That that you have when considering how to solve a problem/issue.

[eye30]

WTF...............

Nice 

I guess the.........

The heat is on, on the street
Inside your head, on every beat
And the beat's so loud, deep inside
The pressure's high, just to stay alive
'Cause the heat is on

Harold Faltermeyer / Keith Forsey

That was for @nzenigma just in case he asks for more lyrics

Please explain

[tw2005]

WTF...............

Nice 

I guess the.........

The heat is on, on the street
Inside your head, on every beat
And the beat's so loud, deep inside
The pressure's high, just to stay alive
'Cause the heat is on

Harold Faltermeyer / Keith Forsey

That was for @nzenigma just in case he asks for more lyrics

Please explain

Temporary insanity on my part and a continuation of the What.............?

[tw2005]

Just a thought......

Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.

What valves?

Ok

When my heater failed to direct the heat from cabin to window the garage told me that a wire had come loose/away from a connector behind the dash.

This was reset seated and all the direction flows worked as intended.

Right, so you're referring to the air control flaps operated by stepper motors. The OP has stated "Air Dampers" are functioning correctly.

[nzenigma]

WTF...............

Nice 

I guess the.........

The heat is on, on the street
Inside your head, on every beat
And the beat's so loud, deep inside
The pressure's high, just to stay alive
'Cause the heat is on

Harold Faltermeyer / Keith Forsey

That was for @nzenigma just in case he asks for more lyrics

Please explain

Temporary insanity on my part and a continuation of the What.............?

Contagion    

“The clock in the church tower said 4.32, as it had done for three hundred years. It was right once a day and that was better than no clock at all.” (Milligan)


[beerman]

Just on the engine temp,

Given today in Brisbane it is going to be a cooler 29 degrees (low 18), and in Norway they are shooting for a top of 7 (low -1) would it be possible that the lower air temp may compensate?

secondly;

Wild boys fallen far from glory
Reckless and so hungered
On the razors edge you trail
Because there's murder by the roadside
In a sore afraid new world
They tried to break us
Looks like they'll try again

Thirdly

[nzenigma]

 

coming from the NZ experience, yes air temp does make heating the car slower, but you recirculate the air, then the windows fog up so you also put on air con to clear them , then you go inside and have breakfast; 30 minutes later you hit the road in a nice warm car.

 

[Jarlef]

Again, thanks! I've read through all and understood at least half of it.

There is however one thing I forgotten to mention, which may be important.
There hot air on the divers side (left), but not on the passenger side. Why ?

[Jarlef]

Thanks. I now believe the water pump is worn, but not broken.
Because, if I turn off the heater for 5 minutes or more while the engine is hot and running and then turn it on full heat, it blows hot air. Not as hot as is should, but hot. Then after a few minutes the heater blows less hot, almost cold. The engine temperature is normal and always below 90C. The engine has done about 230000 km and the water pump has never been replaced

Any thoughts on this?

Not really without some kind of information on what has been proven ok.

Did you prove water can flow freely through the heater core?

90 is mid point on the temp dial, we don't have our marked as such but I'm pretty sure mine sits bang on halfway or ever so marginally below. I'll check it today when I head to work.

Having it hot and then bleed off temp suggests there is insufficient flow through the core.

Is this whilst stationary ? Is the car temp dial still in the same spot , never drops?

Can't comment on a faulty pump really. never had a vehicle where it was not pumping correctly and not overheating, and I'm not sure if being diesel if that changes anything.

Nothing more from me at this point,.

@nzenigma  2nd opinion

"Did you prove water can flow freely through the heater core?"
 - Not really, how do I do that?

 "Is the car temp dial still in the same spot , never drops?"
- temperatur rise slowly to 90C and never drops.

[Jarlef]

in case we are missing the obvious, do you have climate control? Have you checked that air con is not in operation?

CHECK that compressor clutch is disengaged.

No, I have not checked. I don't think I understand what you're asking... How do I check that?

[Jarlef]

Just a thought......

Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.

That's hard to know, but as far I have discover everthing is fine here. But again, I am not sure

[asathorny]

Jarlef, I know nothing, BUT, I feel that if there is hot air on the drivers side then the pump, thermostat et al are working and that Lester may have been on the right track when he suggested that the direction of air being blown may be the culprit.
I await with interest to see what our celvererere members recomend