[theLeftfamily]

Hi Everyone,

2007 i30 SR Auto Hatch  117,000km

We are second owners and have had the vehicle since 2010. We love the car and would love to keep it for many more years.

 However, the vehicle transmission has been playing up the past few months (hard gear shifts, etc) and most recently going into safe mode. Took it into dealer but no fault found. It happened again and check engine light came on, so atleast we had something to diagnos. Turns out, valve body fault and it need to be replaced, ouch!

Our question for the group is, what are your thoughts on going ahead with the repairs, if potentially we could be investing around 30% of the current trade in value of the vehicle to keep it going. Would it be better to move on and trade up?

This is our first major car problem ever, so this situation is new to us. It is a lot of money and we are not sure if it is worth it, the car is 10 years old.

Thanks for your thoughts in advance.

[Dazzler]

Welcome. Sorry to hear that. 

My take on it would be, being 10 years old I wouldn't be spending thousands to fix it. Other components could be getting tired too and start to fail. The relatively low mileage is a plus.

I would shop around and see if you can pick up a reasonable auto box with some warranty with a total spend budget including labour of say $600 to $1000 maximum.

As you are no doubt aware, you are between a rock and a hard place. If you don't fix it, how much will you get privately or as a trade?

Good idea to get opinions on here, but probably also a good idea to also shop around for an upgrade and a second hand auto and any other options that are suggested and then sit down and look at your budget to see which option works best for your situation.

Good luck!

 

 

[beerman]

Good news, you don't have to use the dealer so their price is going to be silly.

Personally I would ring a good automatic service place and speak to them about your options.

I have found M1 automatics at Loganholme to be good, but they have only done the flush on my two transmissions.

Unfortunately your car is worth nothing in its current state. On the plus side, the most of the depreciation has already gone. I would fix it and run it for a couple more years myself (A reco auto should have a decent warranty).

[theLeftfamily]

Thanks for your responses.

Today we picked up the car and drove it home, check engine light is no longer lit and the drive home had no issues, albeit we cautiously kept the revs low.

Dealer quoted $2,500 to replace valve body and oil. $4,000 or $5,500 trade in, depending on whether we replace the part.

Maybe tops around $7,000 private after looking at advertised sales in the area.

Will leave it in the garage until we decide what to do.

[beerman]

I had the valve body done in the Wife's car and it was done in a day. Get it looked at by an automatic transmission specalist to confirm the diagnosis. The valve body is quite an expensive part ($900 plus).

I wonder what a reco transmission with warranty would cost?

[tw2005]

So is the box operating perfectly normal and then randomly plays up?

Did they report what codes they pulled from the scan?


I've put this link up before  for faulty harnesses on the VB.

[theLeftfamily]

Yes, it had played up randomly over the last few months and would go into safe/limp mode. But I can simply pull over, restart the car and the issue would be resolved for the rest of the trip.

Engine light only came on after the latest incident the other day. The code is P0755.

"complete diagnosis, code P0755 evident, shift solenoid circuit, complete further diagnosis to eliminate faults, find valve body failing, requires complete replacement and replacement oil"

[nzenigma]

Assuming that the fault is an internal problem, you may consider buying a transmission from a wrecker. . 2007 to 2012 FD are the same so you can get a low kms box. Fitting the replacement does not take long.

[nzenigma]

Also, Would also be wary of the dealer, this is a low mileage transmission. Major problems at this stage are rare.

[cruiserfied]

Be careful.
I have seen enough A4CF2 valvebodys start playing up. What i have never seen from the "common" valvebody symptoms is limp mode or DTC's.

Did they mention any testing on the solenoid at all? Because if there is a code for solenoid malfunction they should have carried out diagnosis on the solenoid. And for the record a malfunctioning valvebody cannot set that code.
It will be either the solenoid circuit, solenoid itself or the PCM.

[tw2005]

Be careful.
I have seen enough A4CF2 valvebodys start playing up. What i have never seen from the "common" valvebody symptoms is limp mode or DTC's.

Did they mention any testing on the solenoid at all? Because if there is a code for solenoid malfunction they should have carried out diagnosis on the solenoid. And for the record a malfunctioning valvebody cannot set that code.
It will be either the solenoid circuit, solenoid itself or the PCM.

So in essence are you suggesting more electrical than worn out VB?

I know my thoughts are more along the electrical side especially since you can simply turn off and reset back to normal operation

[cruiserfied]

Be careful.
I have seen enough A4CF2 valvebodys start playing up. What i have never seen from the "common" valvebody symptoms is limp mode or DTC's.

Did they mention any testing on the solenoid at all? Because if there is a code for solenoid malfunction they should have carried out diagnosis on the solenoid. And for the record a malfunctioning valvebody cannot set that code.
It will be either the solenoid circuit, solenoid itself or the PCM.

So in essence are you suggesting more electrical than worn out VB?

I know my thoughts are more along the electrical side especially since you can simply turn off and reset back to normal operation

From the info supplied and looking through the DTC guide for P0755 yeah.
Also the symptoms don't match VB. Biggest tell for VB is slipping 2nd to 3rd under light throttle.

[tw2005]

Be careful.
I have seen enough A4CF2 valvebodys start playing up. What i have never seen from the "common" valvebody symptoms is limp mode or DTC's.

Did they mention any testing on the solenoid at all? Because if there is a code for solenoid malfunction they should have carried out diagnosis on the solenoid. And for the record a malfunctioning valvebody cannot set that code.
It will be either the solenoid circuit, solenoid itself or the PCM.

So in essence are you suggesting more electrical than worn out VB?

I know my thoughts are more along the electrical side especially since you can simply turn off and reset back to normal operation

From the info supplied and looking through the DTC guide for P0755 yeah.
Also the symptoms don't match VB. Biggest tell for VB is slipping 2nd to 3rd under light throttle.

Interesting. My hatch feels slow 2-3  light throttle like a slip especially if up an incline. Funny thing is I found paperwork that showed $2500 for a VB replacement at a local garage. Don't remember the mileage but not long enough for it to be a problem again unless of course it was a shonky and just cleaned it out. Pan has definitely been off. Under more aggressive driving seems less of an issue. I guess higher line pressures

[sundiz]

Are there any records what has been causing issues with valve body? Like what is the most common failure? I would be temped to try the fix showed in the video when compared to the prices for new or second hand transmissions. Not sure would it were worth a try if bad solders are a rare cause.

[nzenigma]

I just watched the complete video.  I was initially put off when I saw the usual UTube unstained gloves and brand new socket set.
 But the guy knew what he was doing ; job and movie well done.

The faulty solder joints that he found are called 'dry joints' in the electrical trade. Usually caused by , dirty components or poor soldering technique. 
These looms will probably to be mass produced by a robot, so it is likely that there are plenty more looms waiting to fail.

[nzenigma]

Don't remember the mileage but not long enough for it to be a problem again unless of course it was a shonky and just cleaned it out.

Thankfully you have the Pickles warranty .

[Phil №❶]

Sack the robot 

[nzenigma]

  Phil causes a Strike

[Phil №❶]

 

[tw2005]

I just watched the complete video.  I was initially put off when I saw the usual UTube unstained gloves and brand new socket set.
 But the guy knew what he was doing ; job and movie well done.

The faulty solder joints that he found are called 'dry joints' in the electrical trade. Usually caused by , dirty components or poor soldering technique. 
These looms will probably to be mass produced by a robot, so it is likely that there are plenty more looms waiting to fail.

well done.

My Mrs has a dry joint but seriously though the use of lead free solders is probably equally an issue as they are hard and brittle.

Heat ,vibration, thermal cycles can all eventually induce a fracture.

[tw2005]

Don't remember the mileage but not long enough for it to be a problem again unless of course it was a shonky and just cleaned it out.

Thankfully you have the Pickles warranty .

wrong car, anyway that one feels bullet proof now. Up the Toowoomba range last night, chewed it up and spat it out

[nzenigma]

Good one 
Had a feeling that it was the 'other'. G

[beerman]

Be careful.
I have seen enough A4CF2 valvebodys start playing up. What i have never seen from the "common" valvebody symptoms is limp mode or DTC's.

Did they mention any testing on the solenoid at all? Because if there is a code for solenoid malfunction they should have carried out diagnosis on the solenoid. And for the record a malfunctioning valvebody cannot set that code.
It will be either the solenoid circuit, solenoid itself or the PCM.

If only other Hyundai mechanics had your level of skill and logic.....Funny how I had to fight to get your solution to my issue done, once it was done (and I corrected their dodgy install of the felt that covers the workings that was touching the brake pedal) it was good as new. Sounds cheaper than the option put foward by the dealer too.

[cruiserfied]

Be careful.
I have seen enough A4CF2 valvebodys start playing up. What i have never seen from the "common" valvebody symptoms is limp mode or DTC's.

Did they mention any testing on the solenoid at all? Because if there is a code for solenoid malfunction they should have carried out diagnosis on the solenoid. And for the record a malfunctioning valvebody cannot set that code.
It will be either the solenoid circuit, solenoid itself or the PCM.

If only other Hyundai mechanics had your level of skill and logic.....Funny how I had to fight to get your solution to my issue done, once it was done (and I corrected their dodgy install of the felt that covers the workings that was touching the brake pedal) it was good as new. Sounds cheaper than the option put foward by the dealer too.

Ya'll just need to come to me for service and repairs 

[nzenigma]

You may regret this Tim

[tw2005]

You may regret this Tim

He means free or mates rates , yeah? 

I could do with an injector recode

[cruiserfied]

You may regret this Tim

He means free or mates rates , yeah? 

I could do with an injector recode

I do have my own personal G-scan. But it would have adapted and re-learnt by the time you got here.

[tw2005]

You may regret this Tim

He means free or mates rates , yeah? 

I could do with an injector recode

I do have my own personal G-scan. But it would have adapted and re-learnt by the time you got here.

Are you serious? I've got my car booked in next week to make a $132 donation.

Is that info in a manual?

[cruiserfied]

You may regret this Tim

He means free or mates rates , yeah? 

I could do with an injector recode

I do have my own personal G-scan. But it would have adapted and re-learnt by the time you got here.

Are you serious? I've got my car booked in next week to make a $132 donation.

Is that info in a manual?

It will adapt fuel trims but it'll never be as good as programming injectors.

[beerman]

Be careful.
I have seen enough A4CF2 valvebodys start playing up. What i have never seen from the "common" valvebody symptoms is limp mode or DTC's.

Did they mention any testing on the solenoid at all? Because if there is a code for solenoid malfunction they should have carried out diagnosis on the solenoid. And for the record a malfunctioning valvebody cannot set that code.
It will be either the solenoid circuit, solenoid itself or the PCM.

If only other Hyundai mechanics had your level of skill and logic.....Funny how I had to fight to get your solution to my issue done, once it was done (and I corrected their dodgy install of the felt that covers the workings that was touching the brake pedal) it was good as new. Sounds cheaper than the option put foward by the dealer too.

Ya'll just need to come to me for service and repairs 

600k each way would be worth it to get rid of the rattle in the front of the i40....I mean thats not even a tank of diesel