i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => PETROL => Topic started by: Oldenslow on November 05, 2018, 01:44:26
-
Hi everyone, I have just acquired a 2008 FD 2Lt with a blown engine and need to swap it out. Looking for technical advice regards the best method. I have a compatible second hand engine from a 2010 FD.
Please reply if you have had experience with the task outlined above (engine remove and replace) or you can point me in the direction of technical manual or an expert.
Regards Oldenslow
-
Hang tight! There are some clever and experienced members on here. They will just need time to see and reply to your post. :fingers:
-
Do a bit of reading HERE and you will conclude that I have done a lot of work on these motors.
There are $10 CDs on ebay that will give you a heads up on how the engine works and also down to dismantling.
Irrespective of whether its auto or manual you can lift body off or more difficult , but practical, lift motor out through the top.. This depends on your work shop equipment. ,,,, :whistler: and DIY ability.
Therefore I need to know more about your circumstances.
Whatever you attempt take photos of all aspects and stages.
-
Thanks, nzenigma and Dazzler, I have a small motor repair workshop plenty of equipment and smart mechanic. Have not had much to do with I30 and want to dodge any pitfalls and time wasting scenarios. The out the top looks like a bit of Houdini would be required. Open to suggestions and willing to try methods that have worked for others, although I am constrained by workshop time as this needs to be slotted into a quiet time. I will check out eBay tonight. Once again thanks for your help so far.....
-
if your new motor was manual check for crankshaft end play. A small number ( rare) had failing crank thrust bearings, resulted in front oil seal popping out. No other dramas . Great motor.
Dont forget timing belt.
With body off method , you drop the sub frame with motor and box attached.
Out the top is tight, but easier than it looks.
-
if your new motor was manual check for crankshaft end play. A small number ( rare) had failing crank thrust bearings, resulted in front oil seal popping out. No other dramas . Great motor.
Dont forget timing belt.
With body off method , you drop the sub frame with motor and box attached.
Out the top is tight, but easier than it looks.
Should be easier without a turbo hanging off the rear like the diesel.
also think about anything that may be easy to replace whilst things are out, sway bar bushes for eg.
-
I have noted the comments so far and I have ordered a manual from eBay. Is there anyone out there who has actually taken the engine out the top and if so were there any dramas that I can avoid. I am not confident that there is enough room, maybe I am not seeing something.lol
-
Yes plenty as I have said. Go out below everything on subframe. Out through top, bonnet ,fan , rad, and top mounts ( complete) removed. If you feel its too tight remove the rad support frame.
-
👍 well that’s the way I will tackle it. I will take photos along the way.
-
you dont yet appreciate how much help the photos will be. Good travels :goodjob2:
-
Chickening out, the vehicle is a manual and I can’t see it separating and coming out the top.lol We will lift the car off it instead. Hopefully start it on Monday. Will keep you posted. Actually looking forward to it. 👍
-
bit of rethink. I have pulled a transmission out with engine left in situ. and usually pull up motors with manual box attached. All through top.
you need an engine hoist that can be moved and has adaptable lifting rig so you can tilt as needed. see manual.
Pulling body front off the car is easy. That gives you more clearance and ability to swing forward without a high lift.
Assembling motor to gear box & examining thrust bearing etc is a bit easier on the ground, rather than in the car.
The drive shafts come out quite easily if that worries you.
-
bit of rethink. I have pulled a transmission out with engine left in situ. and usually pull up motors with manual box attached. All through top.
you need an engine hoist that can be moved and has adaptable lifting rig so you can tilt as needed. see manual.
Pulling body front off the car is easy. That gives you more clearance and ability to swing forward without a high lift.
Assembling motor to gear box & examining thrust bearing etc is a bit easier on the ground, rather than in the car.
The drive shafts come out quite easily if that worries you.
When I did the CRDi, pretty much as you said, engine crane with chains set to have the powertrain slanted with teh trans hanging low, lift straight out, bonnet removed. would have taken the rad support out and gone that way except for the condensor and a/c piping. compressor was detached from engine block and left hanging below.
(https://preview.ibb.co/iFhdiV/20170127-002306.jpg) (https://ibb.co/naKfxq)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fAHpqA/20170126-190526.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dVyJiV)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mrPPOV/20170126-122818.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dPsYHq)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kf20xq/20170110-121155.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c5nB3V)
(https://preview.ibb.co/foWFVA/20170101-085152.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gUqncq)
easier as a write off and front end ripped off
used foam block to protect rad on install,
-
Thought an attempt to save a/c gas would just complicate it for you. But as tw has said you can unbolt the compressor and tie it to one side.