[Phil_C]

Hi guys, hopefully one of you could help me if possible! 

I have a 2011 i30 1.6 petrol. G4FC

Basically, while driving the alternator mounting bolt keeps sheering. It is definitely tensioned correctly and I have a new belt.

So today I decided to strip the system after it snapped again for the 15th odd time. I removed the tensioner and the tensioner bracket. Removed the belt.

Only the alternator was left in situ by the lower mounting bolt.

Though this time I noticed the alternator had a lot of play. Even when bolted in and torque up. So I removed the alternator. I have attached a picture.

When I removed the alternator I noticed a hook off the aluminium block was missing. So my alternator is bouncing while I'm driving!! Even when bolted in. Does anybody have any suggestions on what I could do here?

Thank you.

Phil.

[Phil_C]

[nzenigma]

I,ll second check when I go to the w/shop, but it looks like part of the block has snapped away.

once I see it I can comment further. 

[Phil_C]

I,ll second check when I go to the w/shop, but it looks like part of the block has snapped away.

once I see it I can comment further. 

Cheers.

I'd be interested to know what it's supposed to look like to see if I can modify something for a permanent remedy!

[nzenigma]

Ok you got a problem. The block hook as you call it should be the same shape as the hook on the front chain cover.

Any warranty?

Bushman's remedy #3 would be to make a steel bracket and mount it off the 2 studs holding the pipe flange.

#4 a good welder could tack a block top???? and bottom and drill though it. How strong?    Lot of stripping of parts to get at the area.

[Phil_C]

Ok you got a problem. The block hook as you call it should be the same shape as the hook on the front chain cover.

Any warranty?

Bushman's remedy #3 would be to make a steel bracket and mount it off the 2 studs holding the pipe flange.

#4 a good welder could tack a block top???? and bottom and drill though it. How strong?    Lot of stripping of parts to get at the area.

Oh dear. Thanks for the reply. No warranty!

I was thinking of somebody possibly drilling some sort of hole and welding a mini bracket into it. Though I know with it being aluminium it could be problematic! The block top seems a great idea.

Making a bracket seems a good idea and mounting directly on the flange stud you mentioned.. I'd be intrigued to know the angles it'd have to be at though!

[mickd]

Bummer,  welding a lump on could be problematic as alloy has already suffered a stress break.
Plus you need to remove all the bits to get a clean go. Try some flat aluminum to make a prototype of your steel finished product. Goodluck,  enjoy the challenge,  take pics and post   

[tw2005]

Not able to check for now but any chance the mount point is part of a timing cover? I know I saw the diesel with same issue being sold off. When I looked forvthe D4FB you can get a timing cover for that one.

[tw2005]

Found a cover but looks like that's the block now I've seen the cover. Nasty

[Phil_C]

Bummer,  welding a lump on could be problematic as alloy has already suffered a stress break.
Plus you need to remove all the bits to get a clean go. Try some flat aluminum to make a prototype of your steel finished product. Goodluck,  enjoy the challenge,  take pics and post   

Going to go see a friend tomorrow. See what he thinks. He's the master of improvisation on these things! I'll let you know if he suggests anything different than on here 

Not able to check for now but any chance the mount point is part of a timing cover? I know I saw the diesel with same issue being sold off. When I looked forvthe D4FB you can get a timing cover for that one.

The mounting point on the timing cover is the one that remains in the photo. The one missing is from the ali block it connects to 

[nzenigma]

Found a cover but looks like that's the block now I've seen the cover. Nasty

  Hyper nasty. Any welding would  probably require Rad and A/C Cond out, then find room    to drill from the side.

But wait, have YOU heard of RapidFux 

[nzenigma]

@Phil_C
Ive used this stuff with good results,  a mate who rebuilds vintage cars put me on to it.

Best of Rapid Fix with Audio - YouTube

Watch the vid  and then think about this.

You need to figure out why the bolts and casting broke. No use doing one if you leave another problem lurking.

You could use the powder and epoxy to  remake the casting. But the bracket can be back up. Thats simple to make.

Clean and file the broken aluminium.

On the break, Drill 3 holes about 3mm dia and 10mm deep. On an angle will be fine.

First put a small amount of grease covered by some masking tape around the top alternator bolt. and set it in place. STRAIGHT.

Make a cardboard mold around it to replicate the shape of the existing hook. Seal edges with tape.

Fill it with powder and tap it so it goes down into the 3 holes, they will help key the new mold.

Quickly apply enough epoxy to wet ALL the powder at once. Watch out for fumes.

Job done, Sets in 30 seconds. Check for max strength time.

You can unwind the bolt. Applying grease is important, otherwise this stuff will lock on to the bolt.

Good luck




 

[mickd]

Cause ? Damn good question 
@nzenigma
@tw2005
Is that rusty welding below engine look like a factory job ?

[nzenigma]

Cause ? Damn good question 
@nzenigma
@tw2005
Is that rusty welding below engine look like a factory job ?

Well spotted Comrade. It does look like a repaired sub frame ,    hmmm  also same corner as the freek fracture.

 

[tw2005]

Just for those curious, the timing cover has that hook section but not the main body of the mounting



And the block. Would have to say easy fix would be to make the area below the cut out solid. Not a lot of meatl there really considering, alloy, vibration and metal fatigue.



Where's a decent Engineer when you need one? 

[tw2005]

Cause ? Damn good question 
@nzenigma
@tw2005
Is that rusty welding below engine look like a factory job ?

I'm thinking it's par for the course given the salty environment these are working in. Here's another that on firt appearance looks very similar............Comrades 

@mickd  @nzenigma

[mickd]

Cause ? Damn good question 
@nzenigma
@tw2005
Is that rusty welding below engine look like a factory job ?

I'm thinking it's par for the course given the salty environment these are working in. Here's another that on firt appearance looks very similar............Comrades 

@mickd  @nzenigma

Thanks for the fantastic pics, big chunk definitely gone.
The SALT factor is probably a given, was just looking in the background and noticed some sus looking areas.

[tw2005]

Cause ? Damn good question 
@nzenigma
@tw2005
Is that rusty welding below engine look like a factory job ?

I'm thinking it's par for the course given the salty environment these are working in. Here's another that on firt appearance looks very similar............Comrades 

@mickd  @nzenigma

Thanks for the fantastic pics, big chunk definitely gone.
The SALT factor is probably a given, was just looking in the background and noticed some sus looking areas.

Yeah, I think it's all metal fatigue related, 

Wish I had saved the Gumtree images of the diesel in Canberra some time ago. It was high Ks and if the clutch pulley had gone the vibrations would have been horrendus.

[Phil_C]

Thanks for the posts everybody. What an interesting situation I've got  - Not sure how it broke in the first place but the only dismantling that had been done to it was when I had the timing chain done in December. I used my friends business so possibly an awkward situation 

@Phil_C
Ive used this stuff with good results,  a mate who rebuilds vintage cars put me on to it.

Best of Rapid Fix with Audio - YouTube

Watch the vid  and then think about this.

You need to figure out why the bolts and casting broke. No use doing one if you leave another problem lurking.

You could use the powder and epoxy to  remake the casting. But the bracket can be back up. Thats simple to make.

Clean and file the broken aluminium.

On the break, Drill 3 holes about 3mm dia and 10mm deep. On an angle will be fine.

First put a small amount of grease covered by some masking tape around the top alternator bolt. and set it in place. STRAIGHT.

Make a cardboard mold around it to replicate the shape of the existing hook. Seal edges with tape.

Fill it with powder and tap it so it goes down into the 3 holes, they will help key the new mold.

Quickly apply enough epoxy to wet ALL the powder at once. Watch out for fumes.

Job done, Sets in 30 seconds. Check for max strength time.

You can unwind the bolt. Applying grease is important, otherwise this stuff will lock on to the bolt.

Good luck

I'll check this out thank you. Didn't manage to get to see my friend today as I had errands to run all day.

To his unit tomorrow!

[nzenigma]

, the timing cover has that hook section but not the main body of the mounting
Where's a decent Engineer when you need one? 

possibly

Not sure what mean mate, they both have the same "hook" profile, its an open channel on the block.

I do agree, the sub frame could be pommy salt, the photo needs more detail, because it does look like stitch welding, one here in good condition (original) has a lapped joint.

OP's mechanic needs to give us some input. Not that he's to blame, this car has probably done high miles and condition/ possible accidents needs some explanation

[Phil_C]

The problem has been fixed with a permanent bespoke bracket.

Couldn't take a photo of the finished product but I did get one photo of the very beginning. I will try to explain. I found a specialised metal working guy just around the corner from my friends unit. He made the bracket and installed in 40 minutes! 

Firstly a 10mm hole was drilled and tapped with thread.



The guy then made and measured to perfection a square C-shaped metal bracket. Which slotted over the ali block flawlessly corresponding with the original hook.

Another 10mm hole was drilled into the top of the bespoke bracket, which was subsequently screwed into the block with a 13mm bolt with threadloc.

The trick to holding the lower mounting bolt into place was part of the bracket. The top right-angle part of the C-bracket looked like it was filled with welded metal.

After much trial and error, filing down and sanding - It locked the mounting bolt down but with enough thousands of clearance to remove the mounting bolt also.

I did think that the 13mm bolt holding the bracket in, ontop of the aluminium block would impede the alternator from sitting flush.

Luckily there was no issue at all and the holes lined up nicely.

Once I re-installed the alternator - I personally tried to rip it out by hand to try and manipulate some play. I couldn't get any, it was solid.

So all in all a good day.

Hopefully this might help somebody in the future!

Oh and it only cost £30!

Many thanks for all the replies and you all have a nice day.

Phil 

[Phil_C]

, the timing cover has that hook section but not the main body of the mounting
Where's a decent Engineer when you need one? 

possibly

Not sure what mean mate, they both have the same "hook" profile, its an open channel on the block.

I do agree, the sub frame could be pommy salt, the photo needs more detail, because it does look like stitch welding, one here in good condition (original) has a lapped joint.

OP's mechanic needs to give us some input. Not that he's to blame, this car has probably done high miles and condition/ possible accidents needs some explanation

The mileage is 104k and it's had one accident. I did t-bone a car which pulled out on me, which didn't give way. Though it was relatively low speed at 15mph.

Possibly that could of snapped the mounting hook thinking about it!

[Paolo5]

Great outcome! 

It's refreshing to find artisans who can create minor miracles with (seemingly) just a bit of effort.

[Phil_C]

Great outcome! 

It's refreshing to find artisans who can create minor miracles with (seemingly) just a bit of effort.

Absolutely!

[tw2005]

The problem has been fixed with a permanent bespoke bracket.

Couldn't take a photo of the finished product but I did get one photo of the very beginning. I will try to explain. I found a specialised metal working guy just around the corner from my friends unit. He made the bracket and installed in 40 minutes! 

Firstly a 10mm hole was drilled and tapped with thread.



The guy then made and measured to perfection a square C-shaped metal bracket. Which slotted over the ali block flawlessly corresponding with the original hook.

Another 10mm hole was drilled into the top of the bespoke bracket, which was subsequently screwed into the block with a 13mm bolt with threadloc.

The trick to holding the lower mounting bolt into place was part of the bracket. The top right-angle part of the C-bracket looked like it was filled with welded metal.

After much trial and error, filing down and sanding - It locked the mounting bolt down but with enough thousands of clearance to remove the mounting bolt also.

I did think that the 13mm bolt holding the bracket in, ontop of the aluminium block would impede the alternator from sitting flush.

Luckily there was no issue at all and the holes lined up nicely.

Once I re-installed the alternator - I personally tried to rip it out by hand to try and manipulate some play. I couldn't get any, it was solid.

So all in all a good day.

Hopefully this might help somebody in the future!

Oh and it only cost £30!

Many thanks for all the replies and you all have a nice day.

Phil 

awesome, Not seeing the final is killing me though

[Phil_C]

If there's enough demand, I might take it apart for a photo. Doesn't take long to strip 

[tw2005]

If there's enough demand, I might take it apart for a photo. Doesn't take long to strip 

Nah, let it be. 

[Phil_C]

I'll post it this weekend. It's only fair to everybody that commented and it may help somebody else in the future 

Stay tuned!

[tw2005]

@phil c   Mate,  @nzenigma gary and I are discussing the sheared bolt.

I was under the impression it was this the top M6 bolt that locks the adjuster block?


I'm looking at  item 1140FM

Or was it the main mounting bolt 37338C

any images of the sheared bolt?

[Phil_C]

@phil c   Mate,  @nzenigma gary and I are discussing the sheared bolt.

I was under the impression it was this the top M6 bolt that locks the adjuster block?


I'm looking at  item 1140FM

Or was it the main mounting bolt 37338C

any images of the sheared bolt?

Hello mate.

Yes bolt 1140FM was the offending bolt. The one that goes through the tensioner block.

Bolt 37338C was the bolt that was involuntarily moving back and forth, causing bolt 1140FM to subsequently fail due to metal fatigue. Don't think I've got an image of the sheared bolt but I will check.