2011 i30, 1.6 CRDi, Clutch/ Harsh Vibration Issue

Jones95 · **January 27, 2019, 12:34:53**

Hi all,

New to this forum so hoping I’m in the right place! I’ve read many posts regarding the clutch but still would like to post my own as there’s a couple of additional issues that I’m unsure if are clutch related

Issues

- Must push clutch hard down to the floor to change gears. Lift a few mm and it bites.

- Crunching going into reverse 9/10 times. 1st is as hard to get into. The rest of the gears seem to engage/ disengage fine other times but when coming down the gears there can be difficulty, regardless of the gear/ speed

- a slight rattle when accelerating (doesn’t matter of speed. Can be on take off or when accelerating through the gears). This rattle type sound is coming from around the left passenger side of the car.

- from 3rd gear on, if I hard accelerate at about 1800rpm there’s a loud shudder/growl/ vibration throughout the car. This stops at about 2000rpm. The previous rattle seems to lead up to this.

I’m not sure if the last two points, or all are linked. I asked my mechanic and he reckons it’s all to do with the clutch. He thinks the rattle could be the springs and the growl could be the pressure plates or something but he’s never worked on a Hyundai so can’t be sure!

The car - 2011, 1.6 CRDI, 90k miles on the clock. I just bought the car last week and stupidly didn’t notice these issues. Dealer purchase though.

Apologies for the long post! I’ve tried to be as clear as I can be and I’m not massively mechanically minded so I’m hoping someone could help! I’m bringing the car back up during the week but the clutch isn’t covered so hoping it could be replaced under good-will as I’ve done about 100miles since ownership.

Thank you.

tw2005 · **Reply #1: January 28, 2019, 00:29:06**

If you just got it from the dealer(Hyundai ?) and it has warranty the low bite point is highly likely due to a faulty clutch damper valve.

Seems to be a very common issue. It has been highlighted in the forum and a few of us have deleted the damper valve with a blanking plug.

Immediately fixed all my issues which just so happens to match your symptoms. Mine got to the point the clutch was permanently dragging and had to slam it into reverse as the teeth were rotating.

You'd have to confirm the part number

41690-2H900

The damper does soften th erelease so deleted you may have to re-calibrate the left leg

Low clutch bite point resolution

nzenigma · **Reply #2: January 28, 2019, 02:03:55**

Jones95 · **Reply #3: January 28, 2019, 08:21:04**

Hi, thank you so much!

It wasn’t a Hyundai dealer, but a reputable used car dealer. They’re registered and so on.

I was reading something about the damper valve yesterday but again without being mechanically minded I was at a loss! I’m planning on bringing it up to them today if possible. Otherwise, I’ll visit my mechanic and explain what you have said/ linked!

Regarding the rattle/ harsh vibrations around 1800rpm, was it the damper causing these issues for you also? As so far I’ve read engine mounts, Slave/ Master cylinders, clutch/ transmission fluid (which I’ve checked and is fine. No leaks at the cylinder either) and I’ve read a few other points too.

I’ll go up today and hopefully the dealers mechanic will be spot on and it’ll be hassle free regarding them doing the work!

Thanks so much again, much appreciated!

tw2005 · **Reply #4: January 28, 2019, 09:20:01**

Quote from: Jones95 on January 28, 2019, 08:21:04

Hi, thank you so much!

It wasn’t a Hyundai dealer, but a reputable used car dealer. They’re registered and so on.

I was reading something about the damper valve yesterday but again without being mechanically minded I was at a loss! I’m planning on bringing it up to them today if possible. Otherwise, I’ll visit my mechanic and explain what you have said/ linked!

Regarding the rattle/ harsh vibrations around 1800rpm, was it the damper causing these issues for you also? As so far I’ve read engine mounts, Slave/ Master cylinders, clutch/ transmission fluid (which I’ve checked and is fine. No leaks at the cylinder either) and I’ve read a few other points too.

I’ll go up today and hopefully the dealers mechanic will be spot on and it’ll be hassle free regarding them doing the work!

Thanks so much again, much appreciated!

Sorry, I should clarify. Only the clutch issue. Can't comment on the rattle. Diesel is not always the most refined but , may have a failed mount, seized clutch pulley on the alternator can cause horrendous noise, worn engine cover mountings if that is loose can resonate but impossible to know in a forum what you're hearing.

Jones95 · **Reply #5: January 28, 2019, 20:18:23**

I’ll be happy to sort the clutch issue out anyway! The car has been brought back up to them so hopefully I’ll hear within the next couple of days! Thanks for the tips. I’ll update when I hear more if it’s fixed.

Dazzler · **Reply #6: January 28, 2019, 23:50:35**

Quote from: Jones95 on January 28, 2019, 20:18:23

I’ll be happy to sort the clutch issue out anyway! The car has been brought back up to them so hopefully I’ll hear within the next couple of days! Thanks for the tips. I’ll update when I hear more if it’s fixed.

Good luck! Yes, we appreciate updates. It helps us to know these outcomes.

Soegaard · **Reply #7: February 11, 2019, 21:22:52**

Did you find a solution regarding the the rattle / noise at 1800 rpm. I got an 2009 1.6 crdi, with the exact same problem?

Jones95 · **Reply #8: February 24, 2019, 17:12:50**

Hi,

Apologies for only replying now! I still haven’t got to the bottom of the issue! (Check my most recent post) but really, you are?!! I’ve been searching and searching and you’re the only person that seems to be having the issue as I am.

It was at 1800-2000rpm, the garage changed the pressure plate and it now starts at 2000-2200rpm! It’s infuriating.. the garage has stripped the car, checked the turbo, engine, entire exhaust system, removed the dpf to check its condition, ran diagnostics, and still.. nothing.

Have you had any luck?!

Paolo39 · **Reply #9: April 09, 2019, 15:38:17**

Did they check flywheel? It maybe not completely flat and the runaway is off the specs.

Jones95 · **Reply #10: April 15, 2019, 20:41:14**

Apparently “i30’s don’t have flywheels”.

I don’t know as I’ve seen multiple threads debating this topic in particular on different sites.. from reading previously I thought it may have been a flywheel issue. I will ring their mechanic directly tomorrow.

Thank you.

Dazzler · **Reply #11: April 15, 2019, 21:44:05**

Quote from: Jones95 on April 15, 2019, 20:41:14

Apparently “i30’s don’t have flywheels”.

I don’t know as I’ve seen multiple threads debating this topic in particular on different sites.. from reading previously I thought it may have been a flywheel issue. I will ring their mechanic directly tomorrow.

Thank you.

All i30's have flywheels. The discussions you are referring to are regarding whether or not they have regular flywheels or dual mass flywheels. Generally they have regular flywheels although apparently Dual clutch models may have dual mass versions.

Edit: Phew, I beat Gary to the draw.. I think his answer might have been a bit more curt and sarcastic..

nzenigma · **Reply #12: April 15, 2019, 21:57:26**

Quote from: Jones95 on April 15, 2019, 20:41:14

Apparently “i30’s don’t have flywheels”.

......

Mate you have been given well considered advice and directions to this club's threads on the subject , but here we are discussing your vibration after you re-posted your problem.

I have personally put in a lot of time for you, hoping that you would avoid the expense and frustration when your mechanic tries to reinvent the wheel...and I didn't mean the flywheel.

Now you introduce this utter shit that has come from some unqualified dropkick.

It just muddies the water for the next reader.

Of course the bloody car has a flywheel! What do you think the clutch is bolted to?

And why is the clutch mentioned in all OUR posts that you DID NO BOTHER to read?

nzenigma · **Reply #13: April 15, 2019, 22:02:18**

Quote from: Dazzler on April 15, 2019, 21:44:05

Edit: Phew, I beat Gary to the draw.. I think his answer might have been a bit more curt and sarcastic..

Only just Wyatt.

Ive read some doozies before, but this one takes the cake.

Edit: Clearly, we are talking about the manual gearbox i30s with vibration. The Auto transmission i30 is not part of the discussion.
All makes of automatic cars have a flexi-plate that secures the torque converter. If it has starter ring gear attached, it is often called a flywheel.

Baron_west · **Reply #14: June 14, 2019, 20:48:14**

Hello I’m new to the forum. I just wanted to share my experience with my gf’s 2009 i30 diesel. A couple of years ago it developed a very bad vibration @2000rpm and thinking back I now believe this is when the low clutch biting point also developed but I cannot be sure as I don’t drive the car very often. It got to a point a few days ago where it was getting difficult to select gears so I decided to block the clutch damper off but it made no difference at all so today I decided to replace the clutch. Once removed I found the clutch springs broken. So 7 hours later with the clutch replaced the biting point is back to normal and the vibration is gone! The original clutch had done 167k

Dazzler · **Reply #15: June 14, 2019, 21:39:03**

Baron_west, Thanks for sharing that. Glad you got it sorted with such a successful result.

Baron_west · **Reply #16: June 14, 2019, 21:49:30**

No problem,

nzenigma · **Reply #17: June 14, 2019, 21:52:52**

Welcome Baron and thanks for your post.
I assume thats 167,000 miles =267,000km

Gf is obviously well trained and has a light left foot.

Baron_west · **Reply #18: June 14, 2019, 22:02:00**

Yes it’s 167,000 miles

tw2005 · **Reply #19: June 14, 2019, 22:50:13**

Quote from: Baron_west on June 14, 2019, 20:48:14

Hello I’m new to the forum. I just wanted to share my experience with my gf’s 2009 i30 diesel. A couple of years ago it developed a very bad vibration @2000rpm and thinking back I now believe this is when the low clutch biting point also developed but I cannot be sure as I don’t drive the car very often. It got to a point a few days ago where it was getting difficult to select gears so I decided to block the clutch damper off but it made no difference at all so today I decided to replace the clutch. Once removed I found the clutch springs broken. So 7 hours later with the clutch replaced the biting point is back to normal and the vibration is gone! The original clutch had done 167k

That's super cool photos. appears to still have plenty of meat on the disc left too. any images of the flywheel surfaces and the pressure plate? Interested to see what other markings looking at the side of 1 or 2 of those springs they've been striking something on their sides.

Baron_west · **Reply #20: June 14, 2019, 23:26:54**

I don’t have photos of the flywheel unfortunately but I did inspect it and there were no marks on it, I think the marks were from the springs moving around in the clutch plate, the flywheel has quite a big recess in it so they wouldn’t touch it. I think the pressure plate also looked ok but I will have another look at it. With the springs broken and the metal housing on the clutch plate broken up there was a lot of pieces of metal moving about freely. I’m surprised it lasted so long like that!

tw2005 · **Reply #21: June 14, 2019, 23:36:58**

Quote from: Baron_west on June 14, 2019, 23:26:54

I don’t have photos of the flywheel unfortunately but I did inspect it and there were no marks on it, I think the marks were from the springs moving around in the clutch plate, the flywheel has quite a big recess in it so they wouldn’t touch it. I think the pressure plate also looked ok but I will have another look at it. With the springs broken and the metal housing on the clutch plate broken up there was a lot of pieces of metal moving about freely. I’m surprised it lasted so long like that!

How hard was it getting the box out? Much involved?

Baron_west · **Reply #22: June 15, 2019, 06:31:21**

It was fairly difficult, the subframe has to be removed to get it out.

tw2005 · **Reply #23: June 15, 2019, 08:33:46**

Quote from: Baron_west on June 15, 2019, 06:31:21

It was fairly difficult, the subframe has to be removed to get it out.

I really did not want to hear that. had a suspicion though.

nzenigma · **Reply #24: June 15, 2019, 22:42:46**

If car is on a hoist perfect.

Other way is to pull motor and box out through the top.
I assume there is room to pull gearbox only out that way (have done this with an auto trans).
A bit of an act to centre the new clutch plate when motor is still in the car, In the good old days you used an old input shaft from a stuffed gearbox. These days I have to make a similar guide.