[tw2005]

I've got myself a 2010 FD i30CW CRDi and after a short while driving it develops a huge drivetrain vibration like when the inner driveshaft joints have failed.

I popped under and sure enough grease is escaping from the Right side inner.

I have no manuals to go by but has anyone got any info on the process or even just the torque settings on the shaft nut?

I've done a pair of shafts before on a Mitsubishi so I'm hoping it's similar.

Is there a factory workshop manual available?

[Dazzler]

Hi tw, hopefully @cruiserfied or @nzenigma might pop by with some advice!

[sundiz]

Is there a factory workshop manual available?

Hyundai i30 Workshop Manual

[tw2005]

Nice. I did find that last night so are you recommending this to purchase? Is this what you have?

Oh and my shaft arrived $135 from Supercheap special order (10% off) GSP CVS.572 3yr 60 000k wty RHS 1.6 CRDI auto

[cruiserfied]

Hey, shafts are pretty straightforward replacement. Only thing i will mention is you will loose oil from the gearbox, be sure to be prepared for the mess and to top it back up.

The most important torque as you asked is the 32mm driveshaft/bearing preload.
196-274nm

[tw2005]

Cheers,

I managed to find these specs , as these are Elantra based I went with the 2007-11 spec of 274Nm which is exactly what you said but of course having to get the castelled nut lined up for the pin would mean there'll need to be a tolerance.

All fixed and beautifully smooth again . Took me roughly  1-1.5hr.

Removed the wheel,  removed the caliper, rotor,cracked the nut, removed the strut bolts, brake line bracket, ABS sensor, tie-rod end, have enough play then to pop the shaft out. No fluid dropped maybe because I had just the right side elevated.

May be possible to refurb the inner, grease slowly escaping and looked quite black so getting hot I think. Boots were fine


ft lb first figure and Nm second
Hyundai
Accent ...................................2012-2013......... 202/274 —
2007-2011......... 188/260 —
2006..................... 175/237 —
2001-2005......... 175/237 147/200
1995-2000......... 170/230 147/200
Azera .....................................2012-2013......... 199/270 —
2007-2011......... 207/280 —
2006..................... 170/230 —
Elantra ..................................2007-2013......... 202/274 —
2001-2006......... 192/260 192/260
1996-2000......... 192/260 162/220
1995-92 .............192/260 148/200
Elantra GT.............................2013.....................199/270 —
Entourage ............................2007-2008......... 199/275 188/260
Equus.....................................2011-2013.........— 203/280
Excel ......................................1990-1994......... 170/230 129/175
1986-1989......... 170/230 HIA
Genesis..................................2009-2013.........— 188/255

[sundiz]

are you recommending this to purchase? Is this what you have?

Well, that is only workshop manual I am aware of for the i30. I have that and the epc program. Best 20 £ i have invested for my car. Not the easiest to use due virtual desktop and some info is quite well hidden into the software. That is basicly the same program the dealer uses, but there is no support for connectiong the car to the software. Also the versions I have have also most of the other older hyundai manuals as well, Getz, santa fe etc eventhough it was advertised as i30 program. Those programs have saved me a ton of money. Literally. I've done all the services and repairs DIY.

[tw2005]

Comparison of the aftermarket to original.

[tw2005]

are you recommending this to purchase? Is this what you have?

Well, that is only workshop manual I am aware of for the i30. I have that and the epc program. Best 20 £ i have invested for my car. Not the easiest to use due virtual desktop and some info is quite well hidden into the software. That is basicly the same program the dealer uses, but there is no support for connectiong the car to the software. Also the versions I have have also most of the other older hyundai manuals as well, Getz, santa fe etc eventhough it was advertised as i30 program. Those programs have saved me a ton of money. Literally. I've done all the services and repairs DIY.

Well took 24hrs to download and I can't get any repair manuals to work. Just says no data. Any tips? Feel like I've wasted my money here>

[nzenigma]

It has a lot of fans. As you say it is far more than just an i30 manual ; consequently its a huge download.
 Possible that your download was corrupted due to drop outs etc..... as others have experienced.

[tw2005]

It has a lot of fans. As you say it is far more than just an i30 manual ; consequently its a huge download.
 Possible that your download was corrupted due to drop outs etc..... as others have experienced.

eventualy worked ot out , it's the whole software suite with the manuals but a lot of data missing like the parts catalogue which would have been handy. Because it's a VM the manual tab was out of sight at the bottom. Looks pretty good. Just need to learn how to use it which I will now I have two of these cars.

[nzenigma]

Well not a bad result then. Glad it works for you.

[tw2005]

Some additional information on the RH shaft inner joint issues.

After inspecting the shaft I removed a bit closer today I'm going to make suggestion as to the cause.

I'm not feeling any absurd amount of play in the joint, and the boot has not perish but grease is escaping.

What I've found is although the boot is intact, and the clamp also intact,  the boot itself  is no longer clamped or sealing firm against the joint housing.

It's as though it has shrunk from heat  , age or both or the clamp was not tight enough in the first place.

I can easily wobble the case within the boot. Re clamping if noticed early enough may help but if you start seeing any grease weeping from your RH inner joint then the boot has failed to seal and eventually the grease will run out causing the joint to overheat and bind up which is what I expect happened with mine.

The longer the drive the worse it got.

Interesting with my LH shaft , same age miles etc the boot is still tight and sealed

[sundiz]

a lot of data missing like the parts catalogue which would have been handy

Parts can be found in the EPC program. But that costs also 10£...

[tw2005]

a lot of data missing like the parts catalogue which would have been handy

Parts can be found in the EPC program. But that costs also 10£...

Can that be embedded within the GDS? I use ILCATS and translator

[sundiz]

Can that be embedded within the GDS? I use ILCATS and translator

I dont think so. The epc software is made like gds. You need to use it with virtual machine.

[tw2005]

Another victim of the leaky boots. Spotted this recently with a steering rack swap out. Junior did not take it to Fulcrum for top up of grease and a re-clamp which should have fixed it.

Not sure if the joint is ok but has reached the point where the shaft vibrates at speed under high loads.

Play in the joint felt the same as the new shaft I pit in. May be worth a refurb for the next one to go.

Lucky I had this shaft for a rainy day Just wish it was not








who discovered aluminum

[nzenigma]

You mentioned PM that grease may cause the imbalance , doesn't quite stack up, to me anyway, but who am I 
Look for play in CV, bent shaft, wheel balance, ..... missing wheel? 

[tw2005]

You mentioned PM that grease may cause the imbalance , doesn't quite stack up, to me anyway, but who am I 
Look for play in CV, bent shaft, wheel balance, ..... missing wheel? 

If it's not due to the grease then it's wear in the joint due to the grease escaping. But it's the shaft 100% that  starts going eccentric. New shaft, test drive, perfect again.

I'm hoping it's grease because I'd love to salvage the shaft( wishfull thinking) but no analysis, no data, nothing learnt.

I will get it stripped down and see how it is by someone who's qualified. I have a nother set and I think I have the original one from teh wagon which was atrocious.

3 rd car and 2 makes I've experienced this phenomenon. The other was a Mitsubishi Galant. I posted that one in another car forum many years ago only to have some fool "dealership" mechanic call crap, never seen one do that.

anyway,  I digress.

Oh, and I should also mention it's always the longest shaft too that's sensitive to this which makes sense.

[nzenigma]

no doubt you will let us know. Just that weight of grease V weight of uni joint does seem to be a factor. More likely  its binding up due to no lube???     

[tw2005]

no doubt you will let us know. Just that weight of grease V weight of uni joint does seem to be a factor. More likely  its binding up due to no lube???     

Quite likely. I'm a bit pissed off because i've now had to use my only good shaft when we could have extended the previous one.

I found an aftermarket GSP number for the inner,

GSP 624061



But surprise surprise none available.  bet they stopped production to sell just the shafts.

Replacement shaft was a GSP CVS.572  boot quality was comparable to the OEM. OEM is possibly slightly tougher.

[nzenigma]

2 more at Willawong

[tw2005]

OEM inner kit

495352L401 ( Aus and Europe regions)

[nzenigma]

  You need a new hobby.

[tw2005]

You need a new hobby.

Examples and what do you mean. It's raining what else can I do. Knit?

[tw2005]

2 more at Willawong

? Pink Elephants? Indians?

[nzenigma]

2 more at Willawong

? Pink Elephants? Indians?

Taliban battalions.

[The Gonz]

Taliban battalions

That's OK, they're under surveillance.

[tw2005]

Taliban battalions

That's OK, they're under surveillance.

You're under that hub cap Gonz doing a reccy?

[tw2005]

Now, back to the technical stuff

Report is in.

It's retired from active duty, non salvageable in my opinion anyway.

The internals are worn and case hardening gone. I've tried to capture a paper towel with chrome speckles  or case hardening floating in amongst the little grease left which in effect is a quantity low enough to not be forced out.

Likely just getting this shaft out before it got really violent.