i30 Owners Club

Fitting a dash cam

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Offline marc.knuckle

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Hi all

I was looking into fitting a dash cam to the i30 but didn't really want to mess around connecting to the fuse box. Is there an easier way. For example, are the power sockets both permanent live or ignition live i could use?

Cheers.

p.s. for future reference, is there a letter designation for my 67 plate i30? Like my Astra being a 59 plate was an Astra H.
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Offline Blazorax

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I think that a fuse tap into the fuse box would be an easier option since all the power sockets are accessible.  If you want a permanent live wire and do not want to touch fuse box or run cable back to the battery, then tap into the hazard light switch.  I am pretty sure that is a permanent live wire.

Do the fuse box tap.  :)
« Last Edit: December 09, 2018, 09:11:58 by Blazorax »
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Offline Dazzler

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Hi all

I was looking into fitting a dash cam to the i30 but didn't really want to mess around connecting to the fuse box. Is there an easier way. For example, are the power sockets both permanent live or ignition live i could use?

Cheers.

p.s. for future reference, is there a letter designation for my 67 plate i30? Like my Astra being a 59 plate was an Astra H.

There have been 3 series of i30 so far. FD (2007-2012), GD (2012-2017) PD (2017 onwards) I'm guessing yours is a PD but have a look in the gallery or google GD and PD i30 to work out which one you have.

Several members including my co Administrator @Shambles have tapped into their Map light powerfeed for their safety camera.
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Offline Shambles

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I found it simpler to tap into the overhead lights - easy to get to (lots of room up there) and my dashcams (2008 FD, 2014 GD2 and current Ioniq) power up when I unlock the car and power down 30 secs after I lock it.

Yours will be a "i30 PD" I believe. Show us some photos ;)


EDIT: ninja'd
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Offline Blazorax

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I found it simpler to tap into the overhead lights

Doh .. yes that would be easier than the hazard light switch.  Silly me hehehe
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Offline CraigB

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Surely the power socket included with the cam would be the easiest option if the OP is happy with ignition live feed, no need to cut into any other wiring, if wanting to go backup battery feed for parking then a fuse tap powered Cellink or BlackVue dashcam battery would be ideal.

Marc you can check out some cam reviews and tips on http://dashcamtalk.com/forum/categories/dash-cam-discussion.2/
« Last Edit: December 09, 2018, 13:02:52 by CraigB »


Offline AlanHo

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I have the following gadgets in my car that all need a power feed.

Socket - Garmin sat-nav (Used infrequently when built-in sat-nav gets lost)
Socket - Head up GPS speed display
USB     - VIOFO Dash cameras (Front and rear dual system)
USB     - Power bank to back-up the WiFi dongle which is permanently in the car (Used by KIA connect services for traffic and speed camera display on the sat-nav map)
USB     - Car phone charger
USB     - Connection for wife's phone

I have obtained a power adapter with two cigar sockets and two USB sockets which is attached to the side of the centre binnacle by my knee. (Using strong dash cam adhesive pads).
It aint pretty but it works fine.



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Offline marc.knuckle

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Cheers guys, appreciate all the help. I'll try to get some photos on here at some point.

If i do the fuse box, is there a tutorial and also what bits would i need? I was looking at the Nextbase 412gw if that helps.

Marc
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Offline CraigB

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What you require would depend on the accessories supplied with the Nextbase cam, my Blackvue 900s came with all extras included for either hardwire or fuse tap connection.

Another new feature option available with the Blackvue cams is the Power Magic EZ OBD connector :link: BlackVue Power Magic EZ - Parking Mode Has Never Been Easier as an easier option to the Power Magic Pro :link: Power Magic Pro - BlackVue

Personally I use a Cellink battery :link: Cellink NEO Dash Cam Battery Pack - Linelink Online | Free Shipping which feeds my camera during parking mode without drain on the main vehicle battery.
« Last Edit: December 14, 2018, 12:18:16 by CraigB »


Offline AlanHo

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I fully recommend these cameras. They fit close to the screen and you can buy a circular polarising filter for them which cuts out windscreen reflections.

These were my previous dash cams.

:link: VIOFO A119S Latest V2 Version w: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

I have these cameras now - dual cams for front and back.

:link: Dash Cam VIOFO A129 Duo Dual Full HD 1080P with Sony: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

C P Filter

:link: VIOFO Official Polarizing CPL Filter Lens Cover for VIOFO A119 A118C2 A119S Car Dashcam (CPL): Amazon.co.uk: Electronics


Don't forget you will need to buy a micro SD card for whichever camera you chose.  I use Transcend Premium cards as recommended by VIOFO - For some reason SanDisc cards don't seem to last for more than a few months.

:link: Transcend 64GB Premium microSDXC Class 10 UHS-I Memory Card with microSD Adapter 400x: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories


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Offline CraigB

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Sandisk cards have a very poor rep when used in dashcams, they're just not a quality High Endurance card, Transend aren't to bad but you'll get much more life and reliability out of the Samsung Pro Endurance cards :link: Samsung 128 GB PRO Endurance MicroSDHC Memory Card with SD Adapter: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

Don't use anything below 64Gb due to overwriting shortened life span, the largest card your cam will take is usually the best option for longer life, I'll be using one of the Samsung 128Gb Pro cards next once my Blackvue card wears out.

Blackvue are very temperamental about which card they'll function with and the Blackvue cards are extremely expensive though they seem to function quite well with Samsung Pro endurance cards
« Last Edit: December 09, 2018, 16:44:43 by CraigB »


Offline CraigB

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Some info on the Samsung Pro Endurance Cards :link: MB-MJ128G | MB-MJ128GA/APC | Samsung AU

Got me thinking I should buy a new card while they're on special :link: NEW MB-MJ128GA/APC 09S-MCSDXC128GBP SAMSUNG PRO ENDURANCE MICRO SDCARD (SD .d. 8801643200107 | eBay got $90 off retail price :happydance:
« Last Edit: December 09, 2018, 16:43:42 by CraigB »


Offline marc.knuckle

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Just checked and halferds has it the same price as amezon and curries. Halferds also has the hardwire kit for£20 and fit it for another £10. I might do that to save me doing it and fudging it up.
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Offline Blazorax

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My whole family are now using VIOFO A119S - on all 5 cars :P  and it saved me from a "he say - she say" between the other party and myself 9 days ago. :)   A picture says a thousand words - in this case a video (i.e Paris Hilton leaked tape  :rofl:) now I just let the insurance company chasing the other party.

Video quality of VIOFO A119S is bloody good - I cannot fault it at all - and at $116 AUD that came with hardwire kit + fuse tap all included.  It is very affordable.

Memory card - I use the Samsung endurance PRO 64Gb - you can get those for around $51 AUD as well.

Regardless of which way you want to hook these up to your car, these guys/gals in this forum are pretty helpful - surprisingly ...   :whistler:  :rofl:

@CraigB - hahaha love your new pic dude
« Last Edit: December 09, 2018, 22:10:33 by Blazorax »
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Offline Beardyboy

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Hi all

I was looking into fitting a dash cam to the i30 but didn't really want to mess around connecting to the fuse box. Is there an easier way. For example, are the power sockets both permanent live or ignition live i could use?

Cheers.

p.s. for future reference, is there a letter designation for my 67 plate i30? Like my Astra being a 59 plate was an Astra H.

Im not sure if you have bought a dashcam yet ... but just to add my 2 cents ( which is about 1p in the UK).

I have the Blackvue DR650- 2 Channel ( front and rear cameras) fitted to both my i30 (PD) and my Toyota Prado (landcruiser in the uk). They come with the cigarette lighter adapter for a very quick installation if you only want to record when you drive.

The set up i have on the i30 also involves a Celllink lithium battery which adds A$300 to the cost of set up.

The Cellink Lithium battery is piggy back connected into the fuse box (under the dashboard) onto the aux power circuit. A Cigarette lighter adaptor option is included in the kit if you dont want to hardwire.The Cellink battery is charged only when the car is on (full cellink charge in 30-40mins when hard wired, 90-120 mins if you charge the cellink using the cigarette lighter option) and this in turn powers the dashcam. The Cellink battery drain time is c 15 hrs from fully charged...so this set up is great for when the car is parked up at night , recording away with no strain on the cranking battery.

In my Prado, i have the blackvue power magic battery monitor fitted instead of the Cellink lithium battery. This power magic module is wired up to a constant live circuit ( one thats not reliant on the ignition being on, ie hazzards ) so that the dashcam continues to record, powered by the cranking battery. The power magic module cuts power to dashcam when the charge on the cranking battery drops to a level that would make starting the car difficult.

Im happy with both systems, but out of the 2,  i do prefer the hard wire celllink additional battery method.

Ive only used the video evidence once in 3 years and that was for an accident that didnt involve me.


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Offline CraigB

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+1 for the Cellink battery, I find mine fully charges in 20 minutes and lasts roughly 25 to 28 hours running just a single BlackVue 900s.

The batteries can also be piggybacked if requiring a longer duration parking setup.


Offline Blazorax

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+1 for the Cellink battery

Now CraigB is giving me more ideas - I got to look into this now for my viofo 119S :D
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Offline Crustycottage

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I am finding the power Magic a bit hit and miss to be honest with Blackvue Dr750 2 camera set up. It is set at lower 12v cut out and often records just 1 hour after parking car. It may be the battery which is just over 18 months but around 13.4v available last time I checked and car cranks over no issue. Average 30 minute drive to work so appears to charge ok.

 Maybe a separate battery needed for me especially with high power amps in boot :whistler:
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Offline CraigB

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About the cheapest you'll find a Cellink Neo from a reputable seller is $329 at Linelink :link: Cellink NEO Dash Cam Battery Pack - Linelink Online | Free Shipping

Expansion packs are another $299 though not necessary unless you want the extra recording time for long term parking :link: Cellink NEO Expansion Battery - Linelink Online | Fast Free Shipping

Cellink is a Korean company who make these batteries which are also the same battery used by BlackVue and rebranded as their own at a substantial price increase to $399


Offline Crustycottage

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About the cheapest you'll find a Cellink Neo from a reputable seller is $329 at Linelink :link: Cellink NEO Dash Cam Battery Pack - Linelink Online | Free Shipping

 cheers Craig, will have to see what the big fat guy in red outfit brings me for Xmas. Just come back from a Lithium mine, they could have paid me with a free battery  :rolleyes:
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Offline CraigB

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Just come back from a Lithium mine, they could have paid me with a free battery  :rolleyes:
:)
Hopefully lithium batteries will start to become more affordable now we've opened up the Greenbushes plant, WA looks to be a major supplier for lithium and hooking up some deals with Tesla will give us a boost :goodjob2:


Offline Crustycottage

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I am finding the power Magic a bit hit and miss to be honest with Blackvue Dr750 2 camera set up. It is set at lower 12v cut out and often records just 1 hour after parking car. It may be the battery which is just over 18 months but around 13.4v available last time I checked and car cranks over no issue. Average 30 minute drive to work so appears to charge ok.

 Maybe a separate battery needed for me especially with high power amps in boot

Charged the car battery overnight and now have only 12.2v so that explains why Powermagic cuts out at 12v.  :-[
Car starts ok so maybe the battery is just on its way out  :whistler:
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Offline Dazzler

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I am finding the power Magic a bit hit and miss to be honest with Blackvue Dr750 2 camera set up. It is set at lower 12v cut out and often records just 1 hour after parking car. It may be the battery which is just over 18 months but around 13.4v available last time I checked and car cranks over no issue. Average 30 minute drive to work so appears to charge ok.

 Maybe a separate battery needed for me especially with high power amps in boot


Charged the car battery overnight and now have only 12.2v so that explains why Powermagic cuts out at 12v.  :-[
Car starts ok so maybe the battery is just on its way out  :whistler:

Wow! That seems unlikely? 
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Offline CraigB

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That's one of the reasons the Lithium dashcam batteries are becoming popular, continued drain from a dash cam on the vehicles battery (which it's not designed for) shortens their life.

You'll also fine that your vehicle battery warranty has been voided if hooked up to a dashcam for parking mode.


Offline Crustycottage

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That's one of the reasons the Lithium dashcam batteries are becoming popular, continued drain from a dash cam on the vehicles battery (which it's not designed for) shortens their life.

You'll also fine that your vehicle battery warranty has been voided if hooked up to a dashcam for parking mode.

The power magic can always be disconnected for the 2 year battery guarantee. When the engine running, it is charging at 14.4v, but now down to 12.1v before starting. surely alarm systems, central locking are classed as steady current draw??? 
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Offline CraigB

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surely alarm systems, central locking are classed as steady current draw???
I'm not sure how much the alarm/immobiliser system would draw though I expect very little being it's in a sleep like status, the cam will constantly be drawing 3 to 5v in parking mode.


Offline AlanHo

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I'm not sure how much the alarm/immobiliser system would draw though I expect very little being it's in a sleep like status, the cam will constantly be drawing 3 to 5v in parking mode.

Surely you mean watts or mA. It will still be operating on circa 12V
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Offline Crustycottage

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from dash cam website
 the average power consumption of the dual lens BlackVue DR750S-2CH dash cam is between 300 and 350 milliamps (3.6-4.2 watts @ 12v). A single-lens dash cam like the DR750S-1CH consumes even less power: between 200-250 mA (2.4-3 watts @ 12v). So, your dash cam is drawing about as much power as a 3-4 watt light bulb
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Offline CraigB

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Yeah Watts is what I meant  :head_knock:

That’s still enough constant draw to shorten battery life, an interior light left on overnight will drain a battery quite easily, cranking batteries aren’t meant for deep cycle type applications of constant power draw.


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