[tw2005]

Read it a few times but the symptoms are very different

Charlie8 had
"No lights on at start or driving ( < 50 mph )
ISG stopped working
CC not working - switches on and dash light, but can never set a speed
Clutch down when moving - RPM will drop RAPIDLY ( one of the issues and so bad driving experience on gearchange ) and goto 1K if left, no less. This happens even with no ESC light on ie from start
50 mph ESC light comes on ( whatever gear )
The gear change notification on the computer not working for best mpg"

For me the light is on all the time
ISG - always hit and miss although I think it hasn't functioned in over a year
CC still works
Engine is normal
I get gear change notifications

Which is why I dismissed the clutch switch may have a look if I get chance, from that thread though it appears to be a pain to get at!!

Thanks though I had thought about the clutch switch

Can't find anything for ISG is the manuals I have for GD, painful. Have found ISG for Veloster but it's not diesel so i40 could be very close to same sytem as it's the same years.

since you have ISG issues as well I'm just thinking rather than walking past that clutch switch it may be worth double checking it's good. Just seems a coincidence that both ISG and this ESC lamp is lit and although Charlie8 symptoms were different he too had ISG and ESC lamp lit issues.

The ISG system does have quite a few variables monitored though. STill reading. May put up the i40 data just in case it's close for how it all works, if I find something useful

[tw2005]

Well reading my owners manual and in conjunction with the service manual, at least one thing is clear. A permanently lit ESC(amber) indicates ESC/ESP failure

[Spongey]

Just had a look at the clutch switch not as bad as I thought it would be to get at, plunger seems fine (but that means nothing!). Couldn't get at the contacts in situ and about to go out for lunch with the in-laws so not enough time to pull the switch. If I get chance this PM I will pull the switch and check it for continuity as in the scheme of things seems an easy thing to check!

[tw2005]

Looking at DTCs now . Here's one that's interesting , sensor source voltage C1112, 12v supply, if out of range, ESP is disabled but ABS and EBD still work. suggested Faulty HECU or bad connection.

Any single wheel sensor fail shuts down  ABS/ESP but EBD remains, 2 or more and they're all disabled.

And I've read enough. You never know it may just need the code cleared to reactivate the system, all guesses, look forward to some more facts after a scan

[Spongey]

Thanks for your time tw2005 it is massively appreciated, will have a look at the clutch switch this PM if that is good will get the Delphi clone ordered and see what it pulls code wise and report back!!

If nothing else may tell me why ISG is not functioning.

[tw2005]

some ISG info from the i40 files

[nzenigma]

Thanks both I think it is increasingly looking like I am going to have to get the codes read with a better ODB reader.
The lack of VSC doesn't bother me massively, it is the first car I have had with it! Was very strange the first time it functioned it felt like something had grabbed the back of the car.
The Orange light is annoying and is an MOT fail in the UK, which is due Sept for this car so need to get it sorted before then.

I am quite tempted with the Delphi 150e ODB clone, will report back if I end up getting one and it works! Otherwise will report back when I manage to figure out which code is causing the ESC to fail.

Mate, have a physical look at the car, get underneath. Has it been in a prang. etc. look at the wheel sensors.

During my banter with tw2500, I described what you have experienced. In that case it was caused by bad wheel alignment.
Like you, I am quite happy not to have "VSC".
We had a discussion here about the merits of , and methods of switching ESP/ESC off permanently. A member who did a lot of icy road driving found it could over compensate and he would suddenly be driving in an new direction , think ditch or cliff.

[nzenigma]

 ""/ replacing the glide pins on the passenger side as the car was juddering under breaking due to a corroded lower pin (2 weeks ago)."   Coincidence 

As I said go look physically. Did you disturb something for better or worse? Was the juddering actually due to the pins?

[Spongey]

The bottom pin had completely seized (was a pain to get out), causing the outer pad to drag and judder when breaking, on replacement car was back to normal.
When I get a chance I will pull the wheel and double check. Strange it would trigger 2 weeks later though, the only thing I could think would be flexing in cable more than normal when jacking the car as was mainly working on the carrier.

I have not had a decent look at the ABS sensor is there a plug by the sensor or is the sensor and wire one part with the plug in the bay? Looking at the part online it is a single piece with a 2 pin plug at the end. When I get chance will pull the wheel and chase the wire back, Just in case.

[nzenigma]

Hi Dave,

@Spongey  Mate, Ive finally had some time to read and think.

I assume that you haven't found the brakes to  be less efficient and that ABS is not allowing them to lock up. You will possibly feel the pedal pulse a bit on hard braking.
So we can say ABS is definitely working?

Since ABS is reported to be fully functional, no ABS warning lamp, suggest wheel sensor is ok.

Therefore the wheel sensors should be ok and connected to the ABS module and pump. 

If it was me, I would NOW  go for the ESC module..

Is the ECU talking to it and are the sensors connected? - check plugs under bonnet.

Look for and clear codes- you are on the way there already.

There was an issue with some late FDs where the module case was cracked and water was getting in.
The earlier mention of a (one ?) wheel lockup is not good., But gives us hope that you have a leak.

I say hope, because the next suggestion is bleaker than a Cambrian weather forecast,

Most likely, you will need to see your friendly wrecker and get a new HECU.  .

[tw2005]

Hi Dave,

@Spongey  Mate, Ive finally had some time to read and think.

I assume that you haven't found the brakes to  be less efficient and that ABS is not allowing them to lock up. You will possibly feel the pedal pulse a bit on hard braking.
So we can say ABS is definitely working?

Since ABS is reported to be fully functional, no ABS warning lamp, suggest wheel sensor is ok.

Therefore the wheel sensors should be ok and connected to the ABS module and pump. 

If it was me, I would NOW  go for the ESC module..

Is the ECU talking to it and are the sensors connected? - check plugs under bonnet.

Look for and clear codes- you are on the way there already.

There was an issue with some late FDs where the module case was cracked and water was getting in.
The earlier mention of a (one ?) wheel lockup is not good., But gives us hope that you have a leak.

I say hope, because the next suggestion is bleaker than a Cambrian weather forecast,

Most likely, you will need to see your friendly wrecker and get a new HECU.  .

   

[nzenigma]

You Know Im busy on the weekends. 

[tw2005]

You Know Im busy on the weekends. 

Don't give me that, 

[Spongey]

Evening all,
So ABS definitely still working tried it today on a dirt road and could feel the standard feedback of the foot pedal pulsing. There is also no ABS light.

Got home in the dark tonight and toddler had lost her blanket so there were other more pressing issues/emergencies to deal with.

Is the ESC control unit / HECU the same as ABS system mounted on the bulkhead behind the engine? or is there another box hiding somewhere? or is the ESC brains in the ECU?


NB Image coutesy of Google images not my car

Thanks all, bought a better code reader should be here tomorrow so if I get chance will plug it in and see what it gives.

[tw2005]

I think the block diagram in reply 7 sums it up.

ESP HECU, it shows all the sytem sensor inputs and other modules it talks to, but yes the ABS is part of the HECU.

[nzenigma]

Your pix above, ESC module is on the left side, black box with plug. Pull the plug, look for corrosion on pins.

[Spongey]

Good evening all, so read the code and it is:



Delphi unit came with 2015r3 software didn't have the i30 GD in it so had to use the kia ceed of the same generation.
Tried to reset it, but cant clear it.

Power steering is fine no strange behavior but..... 

Apologies to TW.... but I missed this, my wife has the same generation of i30 (and in the same colour).
Turning ignition key on the faulty car all symbols light up and disappear except the ESC(/ESP) and power steering symbol, the power steering symbols disappears when the engine is turned over. I thought this is normal behavior but it isn't.
On my wife's car all symbols illuminate then disappear while the ignition is on without the engine running.
Further evidence of steering wheel issues.

Anyone any experience of steering sensor issues on the GD. I know there were some issues on the FD. Time to start researching the forum.

[nzenigma]

slightly different light on the subject (no pun intended).

The symptoms are that of sensor fault or sensor off centre.

Aside, does your steering feel heavy after you turn off ignition?

Power can stay on if sensor is off centre.

Set Recentre of steering. 5 min job with the correct scanner.

Friendly indi garage will probably do it for nothing  DO NOT go to dealer.

[Spongey]

It feels identical to my wife's when both are set to normal assistance.
Turning the engine off the weight increases gradually equally on both cars.

Is a good indi garage likley to be able to resolve the issue or does the re-centre require software only Hyundai dealers have?
Just picked up the last line of your message wasn't planning on if possible to avoid!!

Thank nzenigma

[nzenigma]

Most garages will have a either a scanner or dedicated unit that can do it.

Curiously, mine only has the GD program but works for the FD..

[Spongey]

Just to say thanks everyone.
Was playing with the Delphi scanner on the car and noticed it had the calibrate steering option. Followed instructions and ESP is reactivated.

Not been a bad buy for £31 including delivery, software version is a little out of date and its is not as strong as the Hyundai scanner clones at £120 quid but reads far more than the basic Bluetooth EM327 scanners and has saved a trip to the garage. 

Thanks again everyone for help and advice will now just have to wait and see if the steering holds its calibration, have done 70 miles today and been fine though.

[tw2005]

Just shows how far off track we can be, LOL

[Spongey]

It does make me wonder if the SAS is on its way out, time will tell.

Thanks for all your time tw2005 and nzenigma, It is appreciated!! With the complexities of modern cars, I miss working on my 1989 VW polo (86c) with only the simplest of engine management (and 1l engine).

Thanks again, will update the thread if anything else regarding this pops up.

[Spongey]

Hello again all,
So the light has come back (ESC off) plugging in diagnostics it is the same error. I have reset the steering angle for the second time to remove the error.  I could, in theory, do this every 2 weeks or so but have a feeling this may only be a temporary fix.
The question is has anyone replaced the SAS, is it easy to get to? or is it a non-serviceable part and therefore a new MDPS unit. Looking on the internet I can find FD sas but no GD parts. From the diagrams, the part looks very buried in the MDPS.
Second-hand Power Steering units go for under a £100 on eBay but removal looks pretty involved.

[tw2005]

Hello again all,
So the light has come back (ESC off) plugging in diagnostics it is the same error. I have reset the steering angle for the second time to remove the error because it was annoying and I could, in theory, do this every 2 weeks or so but have a feeling this may only be a temporary fix.
The question is has anyone replaced the SAS, is it easy to get to? or is it a non-serviceable part and therefore a new MDPS unit. Looking on the internet I can find FD sas but no GD parts. From the diagrams, the part looks very buried in the MDPS.
Second-hand Power Steering units go for under a £100 on eBay but removal looks pretty involved.

Without looking this up, I would say the design is very similar to the FD. I do recall with the GD they broke the parts down to include the main control unit as a spare but the sensor would be embedded in the column and not replaceable.

If they're that cheap worth a shot.

Involved , yes, but not impossible. I can only draw on my experience having done the FD series a few times now. 

slow, methodical and take images. Take care all harnesses are disconnected / removed, last thing you want is to miss oneand tear the connector apart when you lower the column.

I'd have the wheels at the straight ahead , centred position before I started. Take an image of the steering wheel position.

The splines are fluted for the securing bolts on the intermediate shaft to fit through so in theory there is only one position the shaft will align to to refit.

Replace the wheel in it's original position and reset/ recalibrate the ASP.

I assume the column will have the ignition barrel removed if it's a keyed type.

Hopefully your work will be rewarded with a fix. I've had no issues with my FDs yet with sensors, just the bush failures.

[Spongey]

Thanks once again Tw2005.
I will start hunting a second-hand column down.
If / When I get round to swapping I will try grab loads of photos to help other people.

Dave

[Dazzler]

Thanks once again Tw2005.
I will start hunting a second-hand column down.
If / When I get round to swapping I will try grab loads of photos to help other people.

Dave

Good luck with it Dave, that would be great, but mostly the photos will be to help you put it back together...