Add cruise control the DIY Way !!

batteoui · **Reply #30: January 21, 2012, 21:33:13**

Just wondered wether I can change the diode and use a round one like the one in the pic ?

Phil №❶ · **Reply #31: January 22, 2012, 04:01:52**

Should be ok. The shape doesn't matter only it's polarity and operating voltage.

Surface mount resistors (3 number type) shown in the photo 47(2) would be 47 + 2 0's or 4700 ohms. The 3'rd figure is the multiplier.

BTW to show 4.7 ohms, it would be shown as 4R7

As an alternative, have any of you considered making test connections to the ecu to see if you can light up set and cruise led's. If you can, I'd then be inclined to make my own wiring from the ecu to the instrument cluster & disregard the pcb entirely.

Trust · **Reply #32: January 22, 2012, 12:03:05**

@Batteoui , great job your doing !!
A few weeks ago i started to build-in CC on my 2009 i30 petrol engine with a separate throttle servo .
https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=10530.msg127356#msg127356
Did'nt finished it because i want to use the speed signal from the bleu wire on the radio but there was no .
Also the signal from the speed clock could be used .
Can you tell me wich wire at wich connector therefor can be used ?

batteoui · **Reply #33: January 22, 2012, 16:47:12**

@Trust Did you considered getting the speed signal from the OBDII connector ? There is definitely a signal going to that plug. I'll try to search and tell which one to consider

batteoui · **Reply #34: January 22, 2012, 16:52:56**

@Trust VSS or vehicle speed signal you can take it from Pin N°6 on the OBDII connector. This is the same way Dancar CC is using to get information on Vehicle speed.

By the way, you're doing a great job installing the servo to control the throttle

Good Luck !

meehalych · **Reply #35: January 22, 2012, 17:28:36**

Quote from: batteoui on January 14, 2012, 22:54:51

So, once you have your 3 wires, find a way to bring them to the engine compartment (that was really pain in the *** to get the wires to the engine compartment as I didn't find a way to it so I simply brought them from under the dash, off the door and into the engine compartment; here is the pics )

I have just found the info in one of the Russian forum:
"Turn the wheels to an extreme left position, screw off the blank bolts, that attach mud guard and protective wing guard, curve the latter and there you can find a bunch of wires routed to the cabin"

batteoui · **Reply #36: January 22, 2012, 18:08:54**

Thanks for the tip. I'll make a proper install of everything once I sort out the indication light

Trust · **Reply #37: January 23, 2012, 21:13:04**

Quote from: batteoui on January 22, 2012, 16:52:56

@Trust VSS or vehicle speed signal you can take it from Pin N°6 on the OBDII connector. This is the same way Dancar CC is using to get information on Vehicle speed.

By the way, you're doing a great job installing the servo to control the throttle Good Luck !

At that time i did search it there and did some measurements on that connector but with no result .
I gonna to connect at that pin and see what happens .

Thanks !!

ramunask · **Reply #38: January 24, 2012, 06:20:19**

@Trust, how do you know the VSS is not there on that PIN? I think it is the pulse signal not measurable with standard multimeter.

Batteoui, did you have a chance to measure voltage on Cruise LAMP pin's? I would appreciate this as I'm going to give a test of cruise function presence in my ECU by shorting pins of Cruise POWER and Cruise Switch PINS on ECU with 3900 Ohm resistor (imitation of wheel control Cruise ON/OFF switch) and checking if the voltage changes on Cruise MAIN lamp PIN. I'm just not sure what is the algorithm of ECU, let's say if I turn on the ignition but don't start the engine and imitate ON/OFF switch, should the LAMP be switched on immediately, or the engine needs to be started and some say that clutch needs to be depressed before cruise is switched ON. Would be very thankful if you could help clarifying this out. And is steering wheel cruise ON/OFF switch engaged in ON position (I mean the circuit always closed during ON), or is it a push/release button?

Regarding wire run to the cabin, I think a good place could be the one I pointed on picture attached (I hope it attaches well), looks like this hole should end-up somewhere behind the instrument cluster, now that you have it removed, you can check.

And you can order contacts for ECU connector online, they are cheap (about $0.24/piece), and you will have reliable connection to ECU. The parts numbers are in the manual of connector on www.te.com site that you pointed.

batteoui · **Reply #39: January 24, 2012, 09:17:04**

Hi ramunask
Unfortunately, I didn't test the voltage yet but from observing the way the cruise function is operating in my car, you can turn on the cruise function on even right after engine start (pushing the cruise on button on the steering wheel) but the algorithm in the ECU simply won't set the required speed (pushing the SET button on the steering wheel) until 40km/h is reached. I assume then that the light should come on also.
One interesting idea for you to test with is to construct a temporary board which have simple push buttons with appropriate resistors to simulate the Cruise on, SET, RES and cancel buttons. All the buttons should be push buttons and don't need to remain shortened for the cruise to operate.

Regarding the Hole for the wires, I think they go to the wiper motors but as those are hidden by a plastic cover, I'll need to dismount the cover to see if there is another possibility for the wires to go straight to the cabin.
Could you please let me know which sites are selling the wire contacts for the ECU in individual quantities ? I found some sites selling them but the minimum order quantity was too much (I think something like a 1000 pins or so)

Dazzler · **Reply #40: January 24, 2012, 09:20:59**

Without reading every post have you set a failsafe like the genuine CC where it won't engage until the brakes have been pressed at least once? (to ensure they are operational)

batteoui · **Reply #41: January 24, 2012, 09:29:31**

Yes I've read it somewhere in the forum too and can confirm that : CC won't set until brake pedal is pressed at least once after the engine is started. I think it makes sense : The algorithm wants to confirm if the brake switch is operating.
On the other hand, you don't need to add any extra wires for the failsafe checks to operate. All the stuff is being managed by the ECU.

Dazzler · **Reply #42: January 24, 2012, 09:37:10**

Thanks for the quick reply...

ramunask · **Reply #43: January 24, 2012, 10:29:08**

From connector manual I didn't exactly understand which contact we need, MQS clean body or MQS 1.5 clean body, one is square the other is rectangle, I would take both as they are cheap and check which one fits better.
Here are the links where they sell in small quantities:
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-amp-brand_968221-1.html?p=10532351
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-amp-brand_1241608-1.html?p=10207569
It's just that in the links above these contacts are meant for thicker wires (>0.75 mm2), but the ones that are for thinner wires (968220-1 and 1452158-1) are out of stock everywhere I looked and say 14 weeks to wait... But I guess it's not a big deal to have connectors for thicker wire, a small amount of soldering lead will make a proper connection.

Trust · **Reply #44: January 25, 2012, 23:00:08**

Quote from: ramunask on January 24, 2012, 06:20:19

@Trust, how do you know the VSS is not there on that PIN? I think it is the pulse signal not measurable with standard multimeter.

Ramunask , in the installation manual from the "WAECO Magic Speed Cruise controle MS 50" is written that the speed-signal can also be taken from a reedswitch activated by a magnet on the wheel axel .
So i was searching for simple on/off pulse at the OBD conn.
Saturday I'm gonna give it a try .

ramunask · **Reply #45: January 26, 2012, 13:45:04**

I believe you need oscilloscope to monitor this signal, i think this signal should be close to wave form.

batteoui · **Reply #46: January 26, 2012, 14:53:09**

Quote from: ramunask on January 24, 2012, 06:20:19

@Trust, how do you know the VSS is not there on that PIN? I think it is the pulse signal not measurable with standard multimeter.

Batteoui, did you have a chance to measure voltage on Cruise LAMP pin's? I would appreciate this as I'm going to give a test of cruise function presence in my ECU by shorting pins of Cruise POWER and Cruise Switch PINS on ECU with 3900 Ohm resistor (imitation of wheel control Cruise ON/OFF switch) and checking if the voltage changes on Cruise MAIN lamp PIN. I'm just not sure what is the algorithm of ECU, let's say if I turn on the ignition but don't start the engine and imitate ON/OFF switch, should the LAMP be switched on immediately, or the engine needs to be started and some say that clutch needs to be depressed before cruise is switched ON. Would be very thankful if you could help clarifying this out. And is steering wheel cruise ON/OFF switch engaged in ON position (I mean the circuit always closed during ON), or is it a push/release button?

Regarding wire run to the cabin, I think a good place could be the one I pointed on picture attached (I hope it attaches well), looks like this hole should end-up somewhere behind the instrument cluster, now that you have it removed, you can check.

And you can order contacts for ECU connector online, they are cheap (about $0.24/piece), and you will have reliable connection to ECU. The parts numbers are in the manual of connector on www.te.com site that you pointed.

I made another attempt to wire the indication light for the CRUISE and SET to light. Weird enough, I found also that there is SMD leds for both ESP and ESP OFF although my car doesn't have ESP. I just thought of desoldering these SMDs and solder them in for the cruise indication but got again the gauge needles preventing me from accessing to the face of the PCB; so I tried contructing my own wiring and thus soldered a 470 Ohm resistor to a standard 5mm Green LED and a diode. I then painfully put the LED in place. Tested this setup with a 3,7 V battery, it worked and got the indication lit.

Now when I connected back the instrument cluster, pushed the cruise button with engine started, no indication came up. Thought that car has to be on cruise mode, so I drove to 60 Km/h, pushed again the button, Cruise has engaged but no light came up. Now I suspect a pin that I placed on the female connector not having firm contact with the male pin on the instrument cluster or :
1. ECU somehow needs to get a specific current to recognize that it need to light the indication (I wonder why in the diagram there is two resistors connected in series. I assume the first one is connected in parallel with the LED to reduce the current, but this same resistor is connected in series at the same time with another resistor. Are they meant to reduce Voltage as well if my understanding is right ?)

2. Light is somehow driven by a CAN signal from ECU (I don't believe much this option as in the diagram, there is no connection to any MICOM component)

@ramunask : If I test the voltage between the fuse and pin from ECU, I'm afraid the high current will damage the ECU as it is intended to receive a really small current and voltage. Can you please tell me how I can do that safely ?

Thanks

ramunask · **Reply #47: January 26, 2012, 15:52:41**

batteoui, by measuring voltage you will not damage anything, voltmeter has high impedance and no current flows between measured points. Little example, when you measure voltage in your wall socket, it doesn't get shorted, right? Don't worry, voltage measurement will not do any harm. Or you can measure voltage on LED legs (if there is enough room for that). If voltage is present here, might be that you soldered LED the wrong direction (remember that LED is diode and needs to be connected the right way , Anode to negative, kathode positive)
I wrote about the purpose of each resistor in one of my previous posts, the parallel one drops voltage, the one connected in series limits current. Again, check voltage between battery + terminal (or anywhere positive terminal, might be fuse box...) and ecu lamp terminal.
And according to diagram at hyundai service site, there is no CAN involved in this circuit.

batteoui · **Reply #48: January 26, 2012, 15:58:18**

Thanks ramunask. That convinced me (I don't have deep eletricial/electronic knowledge) I'll be measuring the voltage and thus know what is going wrong with my setup. I'll keep you informed accordingly.

batteoui · **Reply #49: January 26, 2012, 22:26:49**

HeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeHHhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa !!!!

I did it

I've just constructed a test rig (470 Ohm (parallel to a tiny LED ) with a 1000 Ohm in series and a current blocking diode), connected the Positive wire to a cigarette lighter and the negative wire to the wire coming from ECU (wire which is supposed to give lighting signal) and that Works. The led shed its light once I hit the button for engaging cruise. I then connected the test rig to the other wire to light the SET button and drove over 40 Km/h and switched the button SET and guess what... ?... the light came on. That was a real relief to have everything working

Now tomorrow I'll be finalising the setup and mounting the LEDs to the instrument cluster. I'll post a full review with pictures once it's done.

Cheers !

batteoui · **Reply #50: January 26, 2012, 22:31:11**

Oh wait ! tomorrow we have Morocco Vs Gabon at CAN cup. I'll be finalizing the setup over the weekend.
Hope only Morocco wins

Shambles · **Reply #51: January 27, 2012, 08:03:42**

Sounds like you guys are having fun

Quote from: batteoui on January 26, 2012, 22:26:49

...tomorrow I'll be finalising the setup and mounting the LEDs to the instrument cluster. I'll post a full review with pictures once it's done.

I'll hold you to that

batteoui · **Reply #52: January 28, 2012, 22:04:38**

I've just finalised installing the instrument cluster indication for both "CRUISE" and "SET". As promised here are the pics :

As I couldn't risk to remove the gauges needles, It's been a little bit tricky to have the LEDs installed. I finished cracking the plastic of the instrument cluster to allow enough space for them to be installed at the right place.

Here is the LEDs once installed :

And the LEDs shining : (I only had white LEDs at hand, maybe I'll change or another colour in the future)

Now my venture came to an end. I have a fully working OEM cruise

. Considering how much I paid for it and how much fun I had, It was definitely worth the time I spent on that project.

If you feel you're confident enough to test and have the cruise installed by DIY. I fully recommand to get the wiring diagram. Without it, I'd never tried to activate cruise by myself.

Having succedded in that project, now I'm looking forward to working on other DIY projects

(For a time I thought about adding ESP

), but that wouldn't have been a piece of cake. I should review my ambitions or just have a long break before thinking on something else.

Enjoy and good luck !!!

asathorny · **Reply #53: January 28, 2012, 22:46:18**

Congratulations and well done... thanks for taking the time to do the photo's... I am well impressed

Dazzler · **Reply #54: January 28, 2012, 22:48:52**

Thanks again batteoui much appreciated

Trust · **Reply #55: January 28, 2012, 23:25:35**

Quote from: batteoui on January 26, 2012, 14:53:09

Quote from: ramunask on January 24, 2012, 06:20:19
@Trust, how do you know the VSS is not there on that PIN? I think it is the pulse signal not measurable with standard multimeter.

Quote from: ramunask on January 26, 2012, 13:45:04

I believe you need oscilloscope to monitor this signal, i think this signal should be close to wave form.

And after making all the connections and gone perfect trough the test sequence , no result from the ODB signal .
Still looking for that certain connection on the speedmeter .

ramunask · **Reply #56: February 05, 2012, 18:02:08**

batteoui, if you turn on the ignition but don't start the engine and press the cruise "on" button, does the cruise main light go on?

batteoui · **Reply #57: February 05, 2012, 21:05:54**

yes it does. Only the SET buton doesn't come on as you need to exceed 40 km/h.
Did you activate the cruise on your car ?. If so, let's have feedback on how easy the operation was.

ramunask · **Reply #58: February 06, 2012, 15:26:54**

thanks, batteoui. I didn't install cruise yet, it's quite freezy here in Lithuania (-1 degree Celsius in my garage, -20 outside), I'll wait for warm up

Just trying to collect all information needed, I even got a donor ECU connector from break apart car for spare pins, will report once I get the results.

ramunask · **Reply #59: February 14, 2012, 20:01:28**

I have made a test on whether ECU on my car has Cruise control functionality, and to my big disappointment it looks like it doesn't. I have tried shorting "cruise power" pin with "Cruise switch" pin via 3900 ohm resistor imitating wheel switch on/off and measure the voltage on Cruise main lamp pin while ignition ON, there was no change in voltage on lamp pin. I guess it is for a reason they do not provide cruise control diagram on hyundai service site for a model 2008. Well, I guess I will have to go for something like this http://hyundai-i30-estate.sgpetch.co.uk/pages/accessories/detail/model=178/category=ROOT-interior/accessory=Cruise+Control/id=4807, as far as I know it has separate control unit.