[The Gonz]

Why not try matching the factory display behaviour? Red for cruise on and green for cruise set? Surely there is some voltage level on some pin on any CC system to provide this with a bit of probing. A dark LED can then mean CC off.

[Phil №❶]

 

[Jarek]

Honestly, I have never seen factory CC colors   
Mine are: yellow for CC on (CRUISE) and blue for cruise engaged (SET).
The point for me, was, that original cruise stalk had only one visible LED, it was green, and lit when cruise was ON (=CRUISE led). My stalk, had no visible indicator for SET state - this info is important for me. Fortunately, I found proper pin on AP800 with this info.

[The Gonz]

Honestly, I have never seen factory CC colors   
Mine are: yellow for CC on (CRUISE) and blue for cruise engaged (SET).
The point for me, was, that original cruise stalk had only one visible LED, it was green, and lit when cruise was ON (=CRUISE led). My stalk, had no visible indicator for SET state - this info is important for me.

The factory behaviour for the i30 is to show CRUISE when on and CRUISE SET when set, in the bottom right of the dial face. The choice of colours is arbitrary and only a suggestion.

Fortunately, I found proper pin on AP800 with this info.

Does that mean you can use that pin to illuminate an LED?

[Jarek]

OK, here's the explanation 
CC SET info is avaliable on green pin. That zener diode is necessary - without it, CC doesn't start (CC ON button not working). Lost 2 hours to find it out  . I also added 150 ohm resistor for safety in case of short connection to body.
My stalk:


My stalk inside:


My stalk schema:


AP800 stalk pins:


If anybody has CM35 stalk, with two memories, we could determine what pins are used for memory. I tried to find it - no success.

[Dazzler]

You do need to be very careful with cruise control, it is a bit of a minefield. Several members have had ongoing issues (going into limp home mode etc.. ) due to aftermarket CC malfunctions... Just saying. 

[Phil №❶]

Looking at the stalk, unless you want to go drilling new holes in it, which I don't think you do, you need to use the existing led to display 4 states :-

State 1  CC off - LED Off

State 2 CC on but not set - Led Colour 1 (your choice of colour), say Green.

State 3 CC set - Led Colour 2 (your choice of colour), say Blue.

State 4 CC in use and in control of vehicle speed - Led Colour 3 (your choice of colour), say Red.

This would suggest that the led needs to be replaced with an RGB type.

You may need a switching transistors to ensure that multiple Led colours are not active at the same time, or you may choose to use multiple colours to display a particular colour, your choice.

[The Gonz]

The internal red CC Set LED is a bonus not currently visible. You can use that LED as part of your display. You may even get away with setting the two as a single indicator and let the two colours mix, by putting them together just behind the hole. I don't think CC Set and CC In Control is any different.

[Jarek]

You do need to be very careful with cruise control, it is a bit of a minefield. Several members have had ongoing issues (going into limp home mode etc.. ) due to aftermarket CC malfunctions... Just saying. 

I can confirm. After first day of installing process I had to get into garage in limp mode - my throttle did not work. Fortuately, next day I found out why    Self installing is my advantage - I know what and how is done. In 3 minutes I can restore original throttle circuit.

[Alexex]

Button connected, hyundai i30 2009 crdi automatic transmission (Czech assembly) (vin tmadc51sbaj091957) but the problem is no free ecu pins (№ ecu 39113-2a406 90fd400atveria1u), tell me where to connect or who have pinout ECM

[Jarek]

Alexex - check PM

[Alexex]

Jarek  check PM!

[Alexex]

Jarek  check -piejar(at)poczta.onet.pl

[Serega.M]

Hello i30 owners,

I've already installed CC like as batteoui, but CC doesn't work 
My car is equipped by Diesel Engine 1600 CC - U (2007 year, Korean build).
According to the information on the forum Cruise Control should be connected to the ECU on pins 89, 9, 50, but in my case they are not accessible. I guess it is the same situation as ramunask and Jarek:

Batteoui, thanks for great information you provided here, just to double check, does your car has U or U2 engine? I’m asking this because in Hyundai service site they provide cruise control diagram for 2009> 1.6 diesel  engine, but for 2008 there is only cruise control for petrol car (mine is 2008 1.6 diesel 85kW 115 PS Korean build). But when looking into ECM pinout for the same 2008 diesel, there are pins assigned for cruise control: 14 – Cruise GND, 15-Cruise switch, 24 – Cruise switch power, 49 – cruise SET lamp, 91 – Cruise MAIN lamp. I have checked the ECM connector on my car, and all these pins are free, stuffed with plastic inserts. In cruise control diagram for 2009 car, for engine D4FB pins 9, 89 , 50 , 51 of ECM connector CUD-K and pin 44 of connector CUD-A are for cruise connection ( and those pins are already occupied in my car). I suppose you used those last ones? If your car has U2, then it makes sense why it is different from 2008 engine. By the way, Hyundai service site makes even more confusion, from model list they have i30 (FDe) with model year list 2009-2012,  i30 (GDe) with model year 2013 and i30/elantra neos (FD) with model year 2008-2012.  FD and FDe have overlapping model years, and for example they have cruise control diagram for year 2009 FDe cars, but not for 2009 FD. I think those are chassis codes, but anyone knows what is the difference between FD and FDe with overlapping model years?

Some evidence...

All measured voltages were OK. Only one thing differs - clutch switch is working completely opposite to docs: contact is closed when pedal is released. Hyundai docs say that released pedal gives open contact. Is this any clue?
Have the same situation like Ramunask - I've D4FB 90BHP engine but MCI computer pins fit to D4EA (2l engine). My i30cw is model year 2009 but produced in 2008 (Korea)
Pins
descript                 batteoui            me
Cruise switch             9                    15
Cruise ground            89                  14
Cruise switch power   50                 24
Cruise LED                  51                 91
SET LED                      44                 49

I connected CC to the 15, 14 and 24 pins, but it doesn't work. Does anyone know what could be the reason?

Thanks in advance!

[Dazzler]

  Sorry I can't help, hopefully someone can.. 

[Jarek]

Sergea, I have 1600 U engine from 2008 and I don't have CC in my ECU. So I added external CC on AP800 modules. Finally I ensured myself on lack of CC when I checked folders from 2009 - CC wasn't avaliable at all at that time, even as an option. It maybe was possible in 2,0 engine but it was mechanical solution. I czn help you on AP800 installation but it's a bit complicated :-)

[Serega.M]

Sergea, I have 1600 U engine from 2008 and I don't have CC in my ECU. So I added external CC on AP800 modules. Finally I ensured myself on lack of CC when I checked folders from 2009 - CC wasn't avaliable at all at that time, even as an option. It maybe was possible in 2,0 engine but it was mechanical solution. I czn help you on AP800 installation but it's a bit complicated :-)

Hi Jarek,

Thanks for reply!
How did you verify that you don't have CC in your ECU?

I read that there is no electronic throttle control in petrol engines, therefore it needs an external module of CC. Might it be it needs just reconfiguration of ECU in my case?

I bought 967002L3504X buttons and 2 cables: one for connecting to the buttons (2 pins are spliced ​​with audio cable, 3 pins are plugged into audio(multifunction switch) connector according to the scheme). The second cable is plugged into the ECU contact group (under the steering wheel) according to the scheme. And then it is inserted into the connector block of ECU (near the engine air filter). According to scheme: 9 (signal), 89 (ground) and 50 (+ power) pins in the ECU should be free, and in my case they are occupied. Came to the conclusion that I have other pins and connected according to the information in the forum:

CUD-K:
14 | Ground Cruise | Control Switch (this is 89 - ground)
15 | Cruise Control 'ACTIVATOR' signal input | Cruise Control Switch (this is 15 - signal)
24 | Sensor power (+5 V) | Cruise Control Switch (this is 50 - +power)
49 | Cruise Control 'SET' Lamp control output | Cruise Control 'SET' Lamp (Cluster) (it's still void)
91 | Cruise Control 'MAIN' Lamp control output | Cruise Control 'MAIN' Lamp (Cluster) (it's still void)

[baroudeur]

I have been following this thread and have seen no mention of the Dancar website

http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH130M.pdf

http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH241.pdf

which includes CC schematics showing electric connections for all  i30 models that Dancar supply the parts.

[Serega.M]

I have been following this thread and have seen no mention of the Dancar website

http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH130M.pdf

http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH241.pdf

which includes CC schematics showing electric connections for all  i30 models that Dancar supply the parts.

Thanks for links, Baradeur.

But 420 eur is very expensive for me

[Jarek]

Good job baradeur but this is kind of "paralell" cc installation - it doesn't need cc in ECU. I have similar installation with AP800 module.
Sergea, look for second option (batteoui vs me). Honestly, I think you don't have cc in your ECU because you've very "mature" car :-)
You are right, Dancar's modules are veeery expensive. But here you can buy second handed AP800 for 10 GBP :-)
TOYOTA COROLLA VERSO PRZEKA?NIK MODU? TEMPOMATU (4441918357) - Allegro.pl - Wi?cej ni? aukcje.
Unfortunately they probably don't have second module (throttle module)

[Serega.M]

Jarek,

Yes, you are right - your option is more attractive. Could you please describe more detail which parts I should buy?

[Serega.M]

Good job baradeur but this is kind of "paralell" cc installation - it doesn't need cc in ECU. I have similar installation with AP800 module.
Sergea, look for second option (batteoui vs me). Honestly, I think you don't have cc in your ECU because you've very "mature" car :-)
You are right, Dancar's modules are veeery expensive. But here you can buy second handed AP800 for 10 GBP :-)
TOYOTA COROLLA VERSO PRZEKA?NIK MODU? TEMPOMATU (4441918357) - Allegro.pl - Wi?cej ni? aukcje.
Unfortunately they probably don't have second module (throttle module)

Jarek, Why do I need a second module (throttle module)?

Accorrding with QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE for AP900Ci I nedd for:
1. CC module (AP800 / AP900 / AP900Ci)
2. Wires to Command Module, OBD-II (DLC) plug, the +15 wire, T-harness to the throttle pedal.
3. Command Module (Can I use original hyundai buttons?)

Could you please confirm it and describe more detail your solution?

Thanks in advance!

[Jarek]

AP900 is "new generation" idea. It comunicates with ECU by digital interface. Taht's why there's no need for t-harness to the throttle. Send me your private mail to PM and i'll send you some files.
You can use your CC buttons on steering wheel but there's necessary some rewiring inside button module to emulate AP800' stalk (i've done this)

[wolfmane]

Hi guys, I'm attempting the DIY factory cruise and all the information I need is on here except for which pins to use in the clockspring plug to connect the wires from the ECU. The photos just aren't clear enough, and I don't have access to a shop manual or wiring diagram. I've got the clockspring, steering wheel wiring loom and steering wheel buttons for both the stereo and the cruise control installed and the stereo buttons are working. I've run a multi-conductor wire from the engine compartment to the steering column through the firewall without having to drill or modify anything because I wanted a cleaner install (I found the factory wiring location which is actually fairly easy to use - I'll post pictures later). Now all I have to do is connect the wires at the clockspring and ECU but am stumped at the clockspring connector. Can anybody provide pictures and/or info for that? Thanks in advance!

[The Gonz]

I waited a year for the i30 SLX CRDi to come with CC as standard. Good luck with the job!

[Hati]

The "pedestrian" version of clock spring will have a single row of connectors, 4 pins in total in the middle of the connector. The other version (the one you want and most likely have to get) has two rows of connectors. The aftermarket e-cruise unit I fitted in my CW from Autostrada had wiring with loose pins to be pushed into the existing connector under the steering wheel. I guess you could solder on wires to the new pins if the clockspring is out of the vehicle

[ghgogov]

Hi guys, I'm attempting the DIY factory cruise and all the information I need is on here except for which pins to use in the clockspring plug to connect the wires from the ECU. The photos just aren't clear enough, and I don't have access to a shop manual or wiring diagram. I've got the clockspring, steering wheel wiring loom and steering wheel buttons for both the stereo and the cruise control installed and the stereo buttons are working. I've run a multi-conductor wire from the engine compartment to the steering column through the firewall without having to drill or modify anything because I wanted a cleaner install (I found the factory wiring location which is actually fairly easy to use - I'll post pictures later). Now all I have to do is connect the wires at the clockspring and ECU but am stumped at the clockspring connector. Can anybody provide pictures and/or info for that? Thanks in advance!

Hi,
You can find out which pin out is for which cable by removing the airbag and folowing the Cruise control cables on the clock spring! Also to be 100% sure just use multimeter to confirm each pin on the clock spring by measuring from clockspring from both sides! I did that probably more than 1year ago but can't tell you exactly what was. Sorry for my bad writing due to English language is not my firs language.Please share after that for experience.Thanks!

[The Gonz]

  for your English.

[wolfmane]

Hi guys, I'm attempting the DIY factory cruise and all the information I need is on here except for which pins to use in the clockspring plug to connect the wires from the ECU. The photos just aren't clear enough, and I don't have access to a shop manual or wiring diagram. I've got the clockspring, steering wheel wiring loom and steering wheel buttons for both the stereo and the cruise control installed and the stereo buttons are working. I've run a multi-conductor wire from the engine compartment to the steering column through the firewall without having to drill or modify anything because I wanted a cleaner install (I found the factory wiring location which is actually fairly easy to use - I'll post pictures later). Now all I have to do is connect the wires at the clockspring and ECU but am stumped at the clockspring connector. Can anybody provide pictures and/or info for that? Thanks in advance!

Hi,
You can find out which pin out is for which cable by removing the airbag and folowing the Cruise control cables on the clock spring! Also to be 100% sure just use multimeter to confirm each pin on the clock spring by measuring from clockspring from both sides! I did that probably more than 1year ago but can't tell you exactly what was. Sorry for my bad writing due to English language is not my firs language.Please share after that for experience.Thanks!

That's what I originally thought I would do, but that still doesn't tell me which wire goes to which button. In other words, I can figure out which three clockspring pins to use, but not which of those three clockspring pins goes to which ECU pin. I suppose I can try trial and error, but I'd rather not risk damaging the ECU and it would make for a long day of switching wires and test driving. I don't have the benefit of the dash LEDs to help me - that will be Stage III only after I'm sure the cruise control works.

[wolfmane]

As promised, photos of getting the wiring through the firewall.


#1: The cover for the big grommet, located on the firewall just to the driver's side of the heater hoses. The white wire is the one I added.


#2: The two 10mm nuts you'll need to remove to get the cover and grommet off. Just keep pulling firmly and wiggling - that big grommet has to release from the hole.


#3: The cover and grommet separated from the hole.


#4: Push a Phillips screwdriver (preferably one without sharp edges) from the cabin side of the grommet alongside the bundle of wires and out through the tape to clear a path for the new wire.

I couldn't get a good viewing angle on this, and actually did it mostly by feel. The point of the screwdriver came out just below the point of the red arrow, out of view of the camera. After much frustration with various attempts at fishing the wire through, the way I finally got it through the grommet was to tape it to a medium flat-blade screwdriver and push it through from the engine side. I then carefully separated the screwdriver from the wire by (CAREFULLY! It was mostly by feel) cutting the tape and pulled it on through. Then it's elementary to poke the wire through that huge hole and retrieve it under the dash.


The ECU plug end of the wires, just to show the multiple conductors. Makes for a cleaner install, but ultimately I'll want to replace this with a 5-conductor so I can run the dash LEDs off it too. This only has 4 conductors. I also would prefer black, so it doesn't stand out so much in the engine compartment. EDIT: It occurs to me that an ideal cable would be ethernet: 6 conductors, no thicker than the one I'm using and the twisted pairs resist electrical interference. Also comes in several colors.


The steering column end. I had way more length than I needed, just to be safe. My index finger is touching the clockspring plugs.


This was just a test fit, but shows basically the final run of the new wire. I hadn't actually attached the ECU end yet, it was just shoved under the edge of the cover. I used slivers of the removed insulation from the wire to shove down beside the little wires inside their holes in the ECU plug to jam them into place and help keep moisture out.