[Bj Hutton]

Hi Gang,

Recently my partner was coming home at night and both low beam head lights had stopped working.

- checked the bulbs (didn't touch the bulbs) and both visually seem intact. tested with a DMM got a complete circuit and finally tested with a 12v supply and they light up.
- checked fuses all ok
- checked relay, relay clicks when swiched on/off. swapped with other relays still no fix. checked for power at relay with DMM and power ok. check earth at relay, earth ok.
- checked stalk on/on switch a bunch (relay clicks) so must be ok.

- checked power supply to bulb and

NO POWER

(earth ok)

need help with a Wiring Diagram if anyone has one for this section of wiring between headlamps and fuse box.

at best guess there is a supply breakdown between where the wiring splits to go to each light (Because no supply at each light) and the relay need a diagram to help show what im looking at for that section.

PLEASE HELP 

[nzenigma]

have not got a cct nearby, but its not a complex area. You seem to be doing all the right things.

Why not just jumper the relay? 

although question " checked for power at relay with DMM and power ok. check earth at relay, earth ok.
-k.'
presume earth is coil side?

If measuring contact side, (with relay out) you measure #1 = 12v+ ; #2 = 0v  AND earth via the bulbs.

the latter indicates wiring to lights is ok.

[Bj Hutton]

we tried bypassing the relay with a test wire still no go (if thats what you mean with jumper the relay)

[nzenigma]

we tried bypassing the relay with a test wire still no go (if thats what you mean with jumper the relay)

yes , it means to short cct  so-called 'pins 1 & 2.'

If you have 12v on either and still no lights then open cct is after relay.

I cant remember if fuses are before or after the relay.

Anyway, if you have 12v, on 1 or 2, turn off lights and measure and trace continuity to either bulb.

[tw2005]

we tried bypassing the relay with a test wire still no go (if thats what you mean with jumper the relay)

yes , it means to short cct  so-called 'pins 1 & 2.'

If you have 12v on either and still no lights then open cct is after relay.

I cant remember if fuses are before or after the relay.

Anyway, if you have 12v, on 1 or 2, turn off lights and measure and trace continuity to either bulb.

 

Just looking at the schematic, it's interesting both have gone if what I'm looking at is correct.

Sounds like the control side is working and swapping out the relay proves it's not burnt contacts . At the switched side 1 contact is always HOT, the other one that's not is obviously then fed to the Low Beam via a 10 Amp fuse. What's interesting is both sides have their own fuse, 1 relay.

The High Beam, has a single fuse but on the HOT side prior to the contacts, then the contact side is direct to both High Beam

The fuses will be in the same box as the Relay.

Pins 85,86 are the control side, 87 , 30 are switched

Fuses are labelled H/LP LO LH,  H/LP LO RH, virtually right next to the relay you were checking.

Out of curiosity, is this a diesel?

[nzenigma]

we tried bypassing the relay with a test wire still no go (if thats what you mean with jumper the relay)

yes , it means to short cct  so-called 'pins 1 & 2.'

If you have 12v on either and still no lights then open cct is after relay.

I cant remember if fuses are before or after the relay.

Anyway, if you have 12v, on 1 or 2, turn off lights and measure and trace continuity to either bulb.

 

Just looking at the schematic, it's interesting both have gone if what I'm looking at is correct.

Sounds like the control side is working and swapping out the relay proves it's not burnt contacts . At the switched side 1 contact is always HOT, the other one that's not is obviously then fed to the Low Beam via a 10 Amp fuse. What's interesting is both sides have their own fuse, 1 relay.

The High Beam, has a single fuse but on the HOT side prior to the contacts, then the contact side is direct to both High Beam

The fuses will be in the same box as the Relay.

Pins 85,86 are the control side, 87 , 30 are switched

Fuses are labelled H/LP LO LH,  H/LP LO RH, virtually right next to the relay you were checking.

Out of curiosity, is this a diesel?

Thanks mate,

I had a feeling that it was either Hi or Lo that had separate fuses. Therefore, need the continuity test to light as described.
I know where you are going re diesel. They blow low beam bulbs.
I would pull the out bulbs and test them properly. One may have blown earlier, now both are gone.

[tw2005]

we tried bypassing the relay with a test wire still no go (if thats what you mean with jumper the relay)

yes , it means to short cct  so-called 'pins 1 & 2.'

If you have 12v on either and still no lights then open cct is after relay.

I cant remember if fuses are before or after the relay.

Anyway, if you have 12v, on 1 or 2, turn off lights and measure and trace continuity to either bulb.

 

Just looking at the schematic, it's interesting both have gone if what I'm looking at is correct.

Sounds like the control side is working and swapping out the relay proves it's not burnt contacts . At the switched side 1 contact is always HOT, the other one that's not is obviously then fed to the Low Beam via a 10 Amp fuse. What's interesting is both sides have their own fuse, 1 relay.

The High Beam, has a single fuse but on the HOT side prior to the contacts, then the contact side is direct to both High Beam

The fuses will be in the same box as the Relay.

Pins 85,86 are the control side, 87 , 30 are switched

Fuses are labelled H/LP LO LH,  H/LP LO RH, virtually right next to the relay you were checking.

Out of curiosity, is this a diesel?

Thanks mate,

I had a feeling that it was either Hi or Lo that had separate fuses. Therefore, need the continuity test to light as described.
I know where you are going re diesel. They blow low beam bulbs.
I would pull the out bulbs and test them properly. One may have blown earlier, now both are gone.

I wonder if BJ will be back with the results? 

[Dazzler]

Don't beat the poor guy or gal up yet! 

[tw2005]

Don't beat the poor guy or gal up yet! 

I hate being kept in the dark Dazz 

Why are you ridiculing me

[Dazzler]

Don't beat the poor guy or gal up yet! 

I hate being kept in the dark Dazz 

Why are you ridiculing me

I don't mind you being hard on me ( said the organist to the vicar)

but I prefer to go "light " on new members in particular...

BTW (I liked the humour) 

[tw2005]

Don't beat the poor guy or gal up yet! 

I hate being kept in the dark Dazz 

Why are you ridiculing me

 

I don't mind you being hard on me ( said the organist to the vicar)

but I prefer to go "light " on new members in particular...

BTW (I liked the humour) 

[nzenigma]

Don't beat the poor guy

[mickd]

Don't beat the poor guy

I can relate to that!      

[Bj Hutton]

 

[Bj Hutton]

we tried bypassing the relay with a test wire still no go (if thats what you mean with jumper the relay)

yes , it means to short cct  so-called 'pins 1 & 2.'

If you have 12v on either and still no lights then open cct is after relay.

I cant remember if fuses are before or after the relay.

Anyway, if you have 12v, on 1 or 2, turn off lights and measure and trace continuity to either bulb.

 

Just looking at the schematic, it's interesting both have gone if what I'm looking at is correct.

Sounds like the control side is working and swapping out the relay proves it's not burnt contacts . At the switched side 1 contact is always HOT, the other one that's not is obviously then fed to the Low Beam via a 10 Amp fuse. What's interesting is both sides have their own fuse, 1 relay.

The High Beam, has a single fuse but on the HOT side prior to the contacts, then the contact side is direct to both High Beam

The fuses will be in the same box as the Relay.

Pins 85,86 are the control side, 87 , 30 are switched

Fuses are labelled H/LP LO LH,  H/LP LO RH, virtually right next to the relay you were checking.

Out of curiosity, is this a diesel?

it is a petrol model. i have read about the power spiking on the startup with the i30s but i assumed it wasn't that as the bulbs tested ok.
sorry i will certainly get back to everyone with the results of this and i really appreciate everyone's time taken to help me out your all great!
but indeed a newbie to the site and trying to sort this out between work and life so a bit slow to get back to everyone.

 tw2005 would you be able to share with me the schematic you were looking at ?

nzenigma sounds like i'm getting a bit over my head i may need to send it to the auto elec's

[nzenigma]

@Bj Hutton

"nzenigma sounds like i'm getting a bit over my head i may need to send it to the auto elec's "

Im afraid I 6000km from my office,so I am relying upon memory for cct layout.;, but this is pretty basic stuff, if you have a multi meter, the only way to learn how to use it is to work on simple stuff like this.

2 things to remember, digital meters as opposed to the old mechanical meter, can give voltage readings that are merely system 'leakage'. So you need to be aware and possibly check for continuity (an unbroken wire) without battery connected.

Secondly , you have a relay that is operating. Now using First principal, start at the end and work back. The bulb is the end.

[tw2005]

we tried bypassing the relay with a test wire still no go (if thats what you mean with jumper the relay)

yes , it means to short cct  so-called 'pins 1 & 2.'

If you have 12v on either and still no lights then open cct is after relay.

I cant remember if fuses are before or after the relay.

Anyway, if you have 12v, on 1 or 2, turn off lights and measure and trace continuity to either bulb.

 

Just looking at the schematic, it's interesting both have gone if what I'm looking at is correct.

Sounds like the control side is working and swapping out the relay proves it's not burnt contacts . At the switched side 1 contact is always HOT, the other one that's not is obviously then fed to the Low Beam via a 10 Amp fuse. What's interesting is both sides have their own fuse, 1 relay.

The High Beam, has a single fuse but on the HOT side prior to the contacts, then the contact side is direct to both High Beam

The fuses will be in the same box as the Relay.

Pins 85,86 are the control side, 87 , 30 are switched

Fuses are labelled H/LP LO LH,  H/LP LO RH, virtually right next to the relay you were checking.

Out of curiosity, is this a diesel?

it is a petrol model. i have read about the power spiking on the startup with the i30s but i assumed it wasn't that as the bulbs tested ok.
sorry i will certainly get back to everyone with the results of this and i really appreciate everyone's time taken to help me out your all great!
but indeed a newbie to the site and trying to sort this out between work and life so a bit slow to get back to everyone.

 tw2005 would you be able to share with me the schematic you were looking at ?

nzenigma sounds like i'm getting a bit over my head i may need to send it to the auto elec's

sure. Won't be tonight but have you checked those fuses in the main boxwhere the battery is?

[Bj Hutton]

yep i have checked all the fuses associated with the head lights

[tw2005]

yep i have checked all the fuses associated with the head lights

Sounds like this will be fun. I'll post that schematic shortly. SO if you activate the lights, the relay clicks, did you grab the DMM and probe on either side of those 10 amp fuses to see if 12v is on both sides of both fuses?

[tw2005]