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i30 2008 1.6 Petrol Occasional judder on Motorway

opsontap · 20 · 11109

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Offline opsontap

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I've very strange problem that has appeared twice in the last 2 months on my i30 2008 1.6 Petrol Premium. Mileage 71000
When driving at around 60 mph & accelerating (3000rpm) there's an occasional violent judder. It appears to be coming from underneath the engine bay.
One minute the noise is there and then it disappears. There appears to be no difference in handling.
I've taken it to the local garage who cannot find fault with it.
Has anyone any clues as to what the problem might be so i can at least go back to the garage with some diagnostic ideas?
  • 2008 i30 1.6 petrol premium


Offline tw2005

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I've very strange problem that has appeared twice in the last 2 months on my i30 2008 1.6 Petrol Premium. Mileage 71000
When driving at around 60 mph & accelerating (3000rpm) there's an occasional violent judder. It appears to be coming from underneath the engine bay.
One minute the noise is there and then it disappears. There appears to be no difference in handling.
I've taken it to the local garage who cannot find fault with it.
Has anyone any clues as to what the problem might be so i can at least go back to the garage with some diagnostic ideas?

I can offer some wild guesses based on your information.

"Wild Judder" - engine misfire and loss of power?

"Wild Judder" - whilst accelerating I have no loss of power and vehicle performs normally however there is a vibration that can be felt which eases or disappears when I take my foot off the throttle but increases with load and accelaration. (worn inner CV joints). Generally If I 'm approaching highway speeds say above 80kph is when I have felt it and worst up hills.

I don't know with the petrol but with a couple of Diesels I've had I notice the grease can seep out and the inner joint can wear and cause vibration.

My hatch ( diesel auto ) comes and goes . Mainly under load up hills if it's been working hard but most of the time it's acceptable. It's a 200000k + unit but the boots appear to shrink with age. The boot itself is in one piece just no longer clamped firm.

I find it's the longest driveshaft(driver side)

Wild guesses like I say.

Also: I notice you have a manual. In a different Make, (Mitsubishi E54A Galant) It had this issue too, worst in top gera 5th, it would reduce if I dropped a cog back to 4th.

I use to have images of the internals of that one which I believe was a case of failed boot, grease escapaed and then rebooted but damage already done.
« Last Edit: January 23, 2018, 20:25:39 by tw2005 »
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Offline nzenigma

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twice in 2 months
at around 60 mph & accelerating
  an occasional violent judder.
 underneath the engine bay.
noise

Broke it down but its still to wild to speculate.

Is it noise and shake? or just noise?

Have you found skin and or clothing under the car?  :whistler:
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Offline mickd

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twice in 2 months
at around 60 mph & accelerating
  an occasional violent judder.
 underneath the engine bay.
noise

Have you found skin and or clothing under the car?  :whistler:

 :eek:    :lol:
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Offline PhireSideZA

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Hi there. Sorry to hear about your issue.

When last have you had the spark plugs changed? And the fuel pump filter? Do you have the AC on or off when this judder appears? Does the judder appear as soon as you plant your foot to accelerate or does it happen momentarily at any time as you accelerate?

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Offline Dazzler

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I suspected an auto transmission issue until I realsed it was a manual. Very odd!  :undecided:
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Offline eye30

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By chance did you fill up at - not your usual fuel station prior to it happening.

Just a thought it could be  poor fuel issue.
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Offline opsontap

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Hi there. Sorry to hear about your issue.

When last have you had the spark plugs changed? And the fuel pump filter? Do you have the AC on or off when this judder appears? Does the judder appear as soon as you plant your foot to accelerate or does it happen momentarily at any time as you accelerate?

Thanks for your reply.
I had a full service prior to MOT at the end of November last year.
It 1st appeared 1 week after the service. Then nothing until i suddenly needed power on the motorway a few days ago.
I never use the AC but a blower may have been on.
The judder seems to occur when i accelerate hard but not all the time. If i gently accelerate it doesn't occur.
Each time the judder has occurred it has steadily got worse and has gone on for longer.
  • 2008 i30 1.6 petrol premium


Offline opsontap

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By chance did you fill up at - not your usual fuel station prior to it happening.

Just a thought it could be  poor fuel issue.

I've not fuelled up prior to the problem occurring
  • 2008 i30 1.6 petrol premium


Offline Dazzler

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I'm now wondering about it being a clutch issue. Although I hope not as that would probably not be covered by the warranty.   :undecided:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline opsontap

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I'm now wondering about it being a clutch issue. Although I hope not as that would probably not be covered by the warranty.   :undecided:

It's well out of warranty being a 2008 model.
Brilliant car apart from this issue.
  • 2008 i30 1.6 petrol premium


Offline opsontap

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    • gb United Kingdom
      Manchester

  • 2008 FD, 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6, manual, grey
I've very strange problem that has appeared twice in the last 2 months on my i30 2008 1.6 Petrol Premium. Mileage 71000
When driving at around 60 mph & accelerating (3000rpm) there's an occasional violent judder. It appears to be coming from underneath the engine bay.
One minute the noise is there and then it disappears. There appears to be no difference in handling.
I've taken it to the local garage who cannot find fault with it.
Has anyone any clues as to what the problem might be so i can at least go back to the garage with some diagnostic ideas?

I can offer some wild guesses based on your information.

"Wild Judder" - engine misfire and loss of power?

"Wild Judder" - whilst accelerating I have no loss of power and vehicle performs normally however there is a vibration that can be felt which eases or disappears when I take my foot off the throttle but increases with load and accelaration. (worn inner CV joints). Generally If I 'm approaching highway speeds say above 80kph is when I have felt it and worst up hills.

I don't know with the petrol but with a couple of Diesels I've had I notice the grease can seep out and the inner joint can wear and cause vibration.

My hatch ( diesel auto ) comes and goes . Mainly under load up hills if it's been working hard but most of the time it's acceptable. It's a 200000k + unit but the boots appear to shrink with age. The boot itself is in one piece just no longer clamped firm.

I find it's the longest driveshaft(driver side)

Wild guesses like I say.

Also: I notice you have a manual. In a different Make, (Mitsubishi E54A Galant) It had this issue too, worst in top gera 5th, it would reduce if I dropped a cog back to 4th.

I use to have images of the internals of that one which I believe was a case of failed boot, grease escapaed and then rebooted but damage already done.

Thanks for all of those suggestions/idea. I'll have a word with the garage and will mention all of these points and see what they say.
  • 2008 i30 1.6 petrol premium


Offline Dazzler

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I'm now wondering about it being a clutch issue. Although I hope not as that would probably not be covered by the warranty.   :undecided:

It's well out of warranty being a 2008 model.
Brilliant car apart from this issue.

Sorry, I've read so many threads tonight I got confused with a 2014 car with a different issue.  :crazy1:
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Offline nzenigma

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 :Shocked: Not like you Dazz.

The term judder throws me a bit. :neutral:
You mention upon acceleration, so I would start with spark plugs, leads and coils. These , especially the plugs, will be under load and more prone to breaking down.
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Offline opsontap

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Finally figured out that the problem was none of the above but was the rear brakes sticking & not releasing.
This in turn caused the whole car to shake violently as it would eventually release.
Turns out that this problem is most prevalent in Hyundai & Mazda cars.
The metal on the back plate behind the brake housing was badly corroded and has disintegrated.
According to the mechanic at the Garage i use these makes of cars are made out of inferior Chinese metal.
Has anyone else experienced this kind of problem with their i30?

 
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Offline Surferdude

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Never heard of it before. In either brand.
An odd association incidentally. Mazda has a long standing and well deserved reputation for good quality even if Hyundai still attracts a misguided view of cheaper quality.

A simpler explanation would be that the rear of the car (or possibly all of it) has been exposed to salt water.
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Offline Asterix

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Never had that problem here with my Hyundai that I've now had for 7 years, but when I worked at a VW dealer it was a commom fault with sticking rear brakes and my earlier Nissan Primera also required much more attention to the rear brakes.

We sure get our fair share of salt on the roads around here...  :undecided:
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Offline nzenigma

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According to the mechanic at the Garage i use these makes of cars are made out of inferior Chinese metal.

UTTER CREP! So-called Mechanic is coming up with BS he cannot substantiate just to sound important. An attribution that has no doubt eluded him most of his life.

We had another member who ranted on about her rusted fuel tank that fell off the car. In that case we suggested that the car had been affected by salt water or chemicals possibly to reduce winter ice.. Same in your case.
If your car has a towbar, think boat ramp.
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Offline Surferdude

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According to the mechanic at the Garage i use these makes of cars are made out of inferior Chinese metal.

UTTER CREP! So-called Mechanic is coming up with BS he cannot substantiate just to sound important. An attribution that has no doubt eluded him most of his life.

We had another member who ranted on about her rusted fuel tank that fell off the car. In that case we suggested that the car had been affected by salt water or chemicals possibly to reduce winter ice.. Same in your case.
If your car has a towbar, think boat ramp.
Used to be car yards removed tow bars so potential buyers wouldn't know it had been used for towing.. Wonder if they still do that.
Your opening terminology echoed my original thoughts.
It was early, I was heading off for a surf and tried to be tactful.  :mrgreen:
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Offline mickd

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Well, there you go, Rear brakes .
Might be a good idea for those that live in that environment,  to check their's as well at next service.
I'd get your mech to check everything under just to be sure.
You see a lot of videos on YouTube of wheels etc falling off in the lands of the salty roads.

Thanks for the update  :goodjob:

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