[Jarlef]

For a long time I've had problem changing gears. To switch to reverse I had to stop the engine and 1. gear was very hard.
Some thought the gear-problem was due to lack of movment on the slave-cylinder and the Master was to blame, because if I pump the clutch pedal hard and fast the gear changing got some what smoother. Others believe the damper was to blame.

I started with bypassing the damper, I believe it helped a bit. Second I replaced the master clutch cylinder, which was really painfull job, both mentally and physically. As I had to lay on the floor with my head in under the wheel. Well I probably did something wrong I guess.
After some hours of work I finally was ready to bleed the system. I loosen the nipple-valve on the slave cylinder and attached a bleeding-hose suited for the purpose. I ensured the break-fluid reservoar was full at all times. No matter how long I bleed, air bubbles kept comming in the transperant bleeding hose. I don't know why (?)

My helper was pumping the clutch pedal as I watch the movment on the slave-cylinder. I thought the movement was larger the before. So I was very dissapointed when I start the engine and tried to put it in gear. I heard an awful grinding sound and was unable to put it into gears (?)

Any ideas on what I might have done wrong?

[nzenigma]

Because you have LH drive , I imagine that you are using the same fluid reservoir as the brakes do. Bleeding these is a hassle on some BMWs and a solution put forward is to reverse bleed.
That is, to pump fluid INTO the slave via the bleed nipple.
Fill a CLEAN oil can with hydraulic fluid, attach it to your clear tube and pump. Leave the reservoir cap off, you will see the level rise and air bubbles bought to the top.

[tw2005]

Because you have LH drive , I imagine that you are using the same fluid reservoir as the brakes do. Bleeding these is a hassle on some BMWs and a solution put forward is to reverse bleed.
That is, to pump fluid INTO the slave via the bleed nipple.
Fill a CLEAN oil can with hydraulic fluid, attach it to your clear tube and pump. Leave the reservoir cap off, you will see the level rise and air bubbles bought to the top.

Interesting  you say this, When I was at my favourite Hyundai Dealership,I mentioned the damper and he also said sometimes bleeding these are tricky and they reverse bleed through slave.

[nzenigma]

Thanks Gerard,   
The oil can remedy I have given came from an American source so it is 50/50 from a mechanic or just another motor mouth.
Having tried using cheap can from your favourite supplier  I found that it didn't have enough pressure. I eventually managed to do my Z bleed from the top.
The way I would approach it is with an oil can with reasonable pressure and a tube long enough to have the can above the reservoir level, therefore syphon effect will add pressure; and you can see how it is affecting the fluid level.

[sundiz]

My old merc had interesting way to bleed the clutch: you had to put hose between front brake bleed nipple and clutch bleed nipple and open them both. Then you just had to pump the brake until there were no air bubbles in the brake fluid reservoir.

[nzenigma]

My old merc had interesting way to bleed the clutch: you had to put hose between front brake bleed nipple and clutch bleed nipple and open them both. Then you just had to pump the brake until there were no air bubbles in the brake fluid reservoir.

Cool  That would solve the lack of pressure .Can see no reason why it wouldn't work on this Hyundai. Thanks