i30 Owners Club

THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: robodelfy on May 18, 2020, 18:03:40

Title: DPF questions and confusion! 2011 1.6 i30 crdi
Post by: robodelfy on May 18, 2020, 18:03:40
Hi, I just bought a used 2011 1.6 i30 crdi, with 150k miles on the clock, but its been serviced every 8k, and is well looked after. I am a bit confused about the DPF after speaking to a mechanic. Firstly, do all these diesel i30s have DPFs? Does mine?

The mechanic said every week take it on the motorway in 4th and stay at 3500 revs or so for about 20 mins to clear it out. Is this good advice?

He warned me of the possible costs if it gets blocked. So any advice would be great

Thanks
Title: Re: DPF questions and confusion! 2011 1.6 i30 crdi
Post by: tw2005 on May 18, 2020, 21:38:01
Hi, I just bought a used 2011 1.6 i30 crdi, with 150k miles on the clock, but its been serviced every 8k, and is well looked after. I am a bit confused about the DPF after speaking to a mechanic. Firstly, do all these diesel i30s have DPFs? Does mine?

The mechanic said every week take it on the motorway in 4th and stay at 3500 revs or so for about 20 mins to clear it out. Is this good advice?

He warned me of the possible costs if it gets blocked. So any advice would be great

Thanks
It would have a DPF, they do need Hwy cycles to keep them clear. The ECU monitors the differential pressure and estimates the amount of soot collected in the DPF. When it reaches a critical mass the ECU will initiate a burn off (DPF Regeneration) of the carbon by injecting fuel into the DPF and superheating it.

For that to happen and complete, certain criteria need to be met. It needs to reach high temps and hold those long enough to complete the cycle so that will require a high speed run on the hwy.

So the advice is  sound, can't comment on dropping the gears and running at higher RPM, I would assume it would run hotter but in my mind I think a 30min run  on the highway woul d do

It can also be forced in the workshop to run via an OEM level scantool if it has failed to complete through normal driving.

 A failed DPF is a very expensive item to replace, thousands usually


Forced regen on an i40
 :link: DPF Regeneration_2014 Hyundai i40 1.7 L Diesel Engine - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bL9LarSVVhs)
Title: Re: DPF questions and confusion! 2011 1.6 i30 crdi
Post by: Bogdan1986 on May 18, 2020, 22:39:05
My 2012 FD starts the DPF regeneration process every ~300 kms, regardless of how much pressure the sensor reads. I notice it because fuel consumption rises slightly and the ISG gets automatically disabled. It usually lasts for around 20 minutes. My commute to work is 30 kms long, about 70% of that is on the highway.
I read somewhere (can't remember where exactly) that for the regeneration process to be successful, it is recommended to keep the RPM over 2000 and speed over 60 km/h. Of course, it is also recommended to not turn off the engine before the regen is complete. Doing so will make the ECU start the process again the next time you drive the car and, if it happens too many times, you'll need to visit a workshop for a forced regeneration.
Title: Re: DPF questions and confusion! 2011 1.6 i30 crdi
Post by: robodelfy on May 19, 2020, 09:37:51
Thanks for the replies. So how often should you be doing a 30 minute drive on the motorway, above 60mph? Weekly would be enough?

I was told the DPF is very expensive to replace which is why I want to make sure I do the right thing
Title: Re: DPF questions and confusion! 2011 1.6 i30 crdi
Post by: nzenigma on May 20, 2020, 08:45:03
Thanks for the replies. So how often should you be doing a 30 minute drive on the motorway, above 60mph? Weekly would be enough?

I was told the DPF is very expensive to replace which is why I want to make sure I do the right thing

 :faint: :wss: :whsaid:

Title: Re: DPF questions and confusion! 2011 1.6 i30 crdi
Post by: BrendanP on May 23, 2020, 12:30:30
My partner's 2011 diesel has now done 197,000 miles and is still on the original DPF, but it does lots of high speed motorway runs. Unless your normal driving pattern includes periodic, extended highway driving, it's best to steer clear of diesels with DPFs. Having to make special trips to clear it out kinda wipes out the benefits of having a diesel.

I'm not sure how rigorous the emissions testing is, because the car does smoke a bit on start-up, and I've never noticed the inspector popping the sensor into the tail pipe. Still, the car has never flagged up any warning lights on the dashboard, so I suppose this means the emissions management system is working. Not only has this car ever had a DPF replaced, it is still going strong on the original fuel injectors, glow-plugs, EGR valve, clutch. Other than changing oil, filters, and a couple of drive belts, the engine hasn't been touched since it rolled out of the factory.
Title: Re: DPF questions and confusion! 2011 1.6 i30 crdi
Post by: sheepman on May 24, 2020, 11:45:33
I have a 2009 2l diesil which has now done about 165000 miles wew did experiance  a few problems with loss of power then it suddenly clearing its self with clouds of black smoke but for the past 30,000 miles have been adding redex fuel additive to the tank ever few times we fill up and never had a problem since ,the only problem we ever get  are suspension and brake problems due to the amount of potholes on the scottish roads nowadays and the salt put down in ice conditions
Title: Re: DPF questions and confusion! 2011 1.6 i30 crdi
Post by: sheepman on May 24, 2020, 11:48:37
Forgot to add car is never on a motorway but driven hard on rural roads mostlt around 60 mph or slighly more
Title: Re: DPF questions and confusion! 2011 1.6 i30 crdi
Post by: nzenigma on May 26, 2020, 03:24:18
I have a 2009 2l diesil which has now done about 165000 miles wew did experiance  a few problems with loss of power then it suddenly clearing its self with clouds of black smoke but for the past 30,000 miles have been adding redex fuel additive to the tank ever few times we fill up and never had a problem since ,the only problem we ever get  are suspension and brake problems due to the amount of potholes on the scottish roads nowadays and the salt put down in ice conditions

Black smoke = excess fuel

With smoke and power loss its probably DPF regeneration. At that mileage, I would be using EGR cleaner. If not done already intake will be full of tar.
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