[sundiz]

More things to the to-do-list. Took the rear wheels of to check the brake pads and disks. Noticed that disks are worn so unevenly that I need to change new disks and pads. I'll hope the car passes MOT with those so I could have more time and warmer weather to change them.

I have used my 450nm impact driver to remove lug nuts and been really happy with it. I bought couple of months ago Makita DTD129. I don't think this has been meant to be used with this sort of heavy use, but I had to try it anyway. Even this small 160nm driver was able to remove lug nuts I torqued to 110nm 6 months ago.

[nzenigma]

@sundiz
IF IT WAS AN AUTO 1.9L of fluid WOULD be a bit short. The trans including torque converter takes 6.6L.
get the car up to running temperature , idle in Neutral and check that the level is correct.
Good work .
MODIFIED BY DUMB PERSON.

OK OK      
At 4am this morning my brain fired up  Duh! These Northern Hemisphere guys all have manual cars. Ive spent all week working on Australia's favourite...the Auto transmission.
I Apologise! 
Apart from natural stupidity, household distractions and the above, my main excuse is that I read sundiz's text but his pictures were taking so long to download, I only saw a giant syringe.

Anyway, it appears it was the weeks highlight for  #*^%*  Gerard. aka @tw2005  and @Asterix    

[tw2005]

@sundiz
IF IT WAS AN AUTO 1.9L of fluid WOULD be a bit short. The trans including torque converter takes 6.6L.
get the car up to running temperature , idle in Neutral and check that the level is correct.
Good work .
MODIFIED BY DUMB PERSON.

OK OK      
At 4am this morning my brain fired up  Duh! These Northern Hemisphere guys all have manual cars. Ive spent all week working on Australia's favourite...the Auto transmission.
I Apologise! 
Apart from natural stupidity, household distractions and the above, my main excuse is that I read sundiz's text but his pictures were taking so long to download, I only saw a giant syringe.

Anyway, it appears it was the weeks highlight for  #*^%*  Gerard. aka @tw2005  and @Asterix    

Is this the final version or still polishing this one up You definitely gave me a giggle particularly since the title had "clutch fluid" in it

[The Gonz]

Stay strong, my Tasman brother, don't let the bullies get you down. I didn't read the title fully either but I did note he was 'consulting the manual'.

[nzenigma]

Thanks Gonz ...... mate

For the ex mate ...to further "polish" my response; this was MY yesterday :

Woke at 4.45am because dog thought it as Monday and wife needs coffee.
Breakfast
Muse about pending sale to an Italian.
Read club posts and attempt to respond.
Test drive completed GD with new AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION,  Gerard 
Plan new 2.4 meter shelf with castors for parts in shed 2.
Attend to sewing machine disaster.
Sell car to Italian. 
Vague memory of lunch.
Attend to brush cutter that is about to become a disaster.
Try to figure out if 1999 Toyota Hilux brakes can be improved; or are they at best, "that's typical mate", performance level?
Complete wheeled shelving that now weighs half a ton.
Dinner and a scotch.
Sleep until dick-head alarm goes off in brain at 4am.

[tw2005]

Thanks Gonz ...... mate

For the ex mate ...to further "polish" my response; this was MY yesterday :

Woke at 4.45am because dog thought it as Monday and wife needs coffee.
Breakfast
Muse about pending sale to an Italian.
Read club posts and attempt to respond.
Test drive completed GD with new AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION,  Gerard 
Plan new 2.4 meter shelf with castors for parts in shed 2.
Attend to sewing machine disaster.
Sell car to Italian. 
Vague memory of lunch.
Attend to brush cutter that is about to become a disaster.
Try to figure out if 1999 Toyota Hilux brakes can be improved; or are they at best, "that's typical mate", performance level?
Complete wheeled shelving that now weighs half a ton.
Dinner and a scotch.
Sleep until dick-head alarm goes off in brain at 4am.

 , seems like a fairly routine day to me. So it's the dog's fault.

Was the car Red and have an Alfa Romeo badge?

 New trans? Where did you score that? Sewing machine, sounds like you got stitched up with that one.

[nzenigma]

He wanted a red Alfa, but bought a white i30.   hence.... 

[tw2005]

He wanted a red Alfa, but bought a white i30.   hence.... 

Clever guy

[sundiz]

I looked the structure of the rear brake system and it seems that I need to remove one link bar or stabilizer bar to get access for the caliber bolts. Do I need to support the rear axel somehow when doing this or does it still stay there when the bar is removed. I don't want to get flying spring on my forehead.

[tw2005]

You pulling the rotors off?

It'll stay there, bit of a pain. A conventional ring spanner may just get in there. It will have some load and lining it back up can be fun.

[Asterix]

You don't need to remove the arm, just use a ring spanner like TW say. It's a bad design but you can loosen the bolt and remove the brake pad support (or whatever it's called).

[sundiz]

I need to change new rotors and brake pads. I looked GDS and there was also mentioned that bar, what ever it is called, needs to be taken out, but good to know I might be able do the job without removing it.

I have a second jack which I could use to adjust the hight and I have those tools which compres the springs. I just do not like working with them the as there is a lot of potential energy loaded in compressed spring.

[tw2005]

I need to change new rotors and brake pads. I looked GDS and there was also mentioned that bar, what ever it is called, needs to be taken out, but good to know I might be able do the job without removing it.

I have a second jack which I could use to adjust the hight and I have those tools which compres the springs. I just do not like working with them the as there is a lot of potential energy loaded in compressed spring.

you're not going to need to touch the springs and the shocks are going to limit the travel anyway.

[tw2005]

Have not watched this through yet, but maybe good preview.

[Paula_i30]

Hi,

What is GDS you are referring to? Where to get?

Paula

[tw2005]

Hi,

What is GDS you are referring to? Where to get?

Paula

 Global Diagnostic System (GDS) ,  OEM diagnostic tool for Hyundai and KIA.

[sundiz]

I knew I had to replace the rear brake pads and rotors. I hoped they lasted few more months so I could do the job on my holiday. Yesterday I started to hear grinding sound from the rear right, so I knew that I need to change them as soon as possible.

Thanks to the advices given previously I knew that removing of the rear suspension bar from the hub was not necessary. I just bought 14mm spanner with a small angle on the other end. That fitted to the "hidden" bolt nicely.



Inside of the rear brake was in bad shape. No wonder the brakes did not feel as crisp as they used to.



All the brake bads had plenty of pad still left but all were more or less stuck. Had to hammer the pads out from the right side. Also the rotors were really stuck. Fortunately I was replacing them also so I did not have to be gentle with the old ones. Hammered those for 10min before getting them out.

Also noticed the on the right side the rubber around the caliber piston was damaged. I'll have to order new caliber if I don't find service kit for the caliber. The piston moved easily so it seems the caliber itself is not damaged.



End result


Made a huge imrovement to the feel of the brake pedal. There is still one more thing I need to do. I had to spin the rotating hand brake tensioner so that I was able to fit new rotors. Now the hand brake needs to be adjusted from the rotating tensioner. It was so difficult to move in the small garage so I need to do the adjustment outside as the wheel needs to be taken off for that. Perhaps I can change/fix the caliber at the same time.

At the moment car has done 123000km. I quess these were the original brakes.

[Dazzler]

Good effort sundiz (you are a better man than me with this stuff) thanks for sharing the photos too. 

[nzenigma]

WoW  , took a look at that calliper , then checked your Kms in post #1.

Your winter conditions certainly take their toll.  Good work . 

[sundiz]

WoW  , took a look at that calliper , then checked your Kms in post #1.

Your winter conditions certainly take their toll.  Good work . 

It is mainly road dust and surface rust. There were still metal underneath it.  But the road salt does what it does. You could get more life for the brakes if you lubricate the sliding pins of the pads and make sure the pads are moving freely. One friend had to lubricate the pads of his corolla every year to pass the MOT.

I did not feel like cleaning the caliper for looks. By just changing the parts I sneezed black stuff out of my nose rest of the day. Probably  should have used some sort of face mask as the brake dust is not good for you.

[xiziz]

I've had plenty cars that need that treatment, so I give the i30 new glide pin lube when shifting tires and brush the grime of calipers and pads.

Pretty, shiny new rotors! Great post! I think you should be able to buy a new rubber sleve and some good silicone based grease, no need to replace the whole caliper.

[nzenigma]

As it happens, my wife is in Helsinki at the moment.  She says: " Nice town but COLD." and went out to Suomenlinna, " interesting and dry weather but COLD" .
So I get the message, by comparison, Queensland is HOT. 

[sundiz]

It is warm now. Just came from 50km moped ride. Last week we had temps below zero and some snow... Suomenlinna is nice. Especially in summertime. Sea is still cold so now it makes the wind even worse.

[sundiz]

Almost 1000km since the brake job. I thought the handbrake pads were worn to fit the new rotors. I adjusted the handbrake pads. Now the brakes bite after 3 clicks from the lever.


Also changed the right side caliper as the old one had faulty seal. Did not even try to service the old one as I got new caliper for 100€.

Also changed the alternator belt. There were few cracks so it seems it was a poor quality belt. Only few years old and not so many kms driven. Also noticed that one guide pully has worn bearing. I'll have to try find new one somewhere.

Took the car to MOT and it passed without any issue. Brakes were good and brake power was almost identical on both sides

[sundiz]

Got new guide pulley for the alternator belt. The bearing of the upper guide pulley was starting to have some play in it. Simple job. Loosened the belt, opened one torx T40 bolt and changed the pulley. Old one started to look little bit worn out.


The gap was so tight that no torx socket or normal key would fit it. Bought a 1/4 inch wrench and used it with extension to turn a normal torx bit.

Checked also all other pulleys and noticed that the alternator pulley bearing might be also worn. I will have to check that with better time. Bad luck if the alternator is going out as the car has "only" ~125tkm on it.

[sundiz]

It seems photobucket made this thread useless as all my pics were on their server... I guess I need to find new host for my pics.

[Dazzler]

It seems photobucket made this thread useless as all my pics were on their server... I guess I need to find new host for my pics.

Yes, we dislike them even more now. Imgur is heaps better and easier. Hope they don't end up doing the same thing though.. 

[sundiz]

Had a loose bearing in the front guide pulley. Ordered new one from germany. Took alternator belt out. Screwed old pulley out and installed new. There is just on torx t40 to hold it.




While working with the car I decided to install Defa multicharger 1204 as the winter is coming. Cold temps, short drives and diesel engine (glow plugs) are not the best combo when thinking about the battery. Now every time I connect the oil pan heater to electric socket, the charger will charge the battery with max 4A current. If battery is full, it stops charging. Should help with the upcoming cold starts. I used to use ctek smart chargers, but the models I have are not suitable for car assembly. Still probably use them once or twice during the winter, but defa will be used daily. No extra wires or opening the bonnet, just one plug in the mask will power up the oil pan heater, indoor heater and battery charger.

[Dazzler]

Thanks for that Sundiz. 

[sundiz]

Little maintenance before temps drop below 0'C.
Diesel fuel filter change. Took around 30min. Could probably do it in 15-20min with pneumatic and electric tools but I was not in a hurry.

First I need to get access to the actual filter. So took the engine cover out.




Still not enough room, so I removed the turbo intake pipe.



Then just remove all 3 electrical connectors (heater, temp sens and water alarm, if I remember correctly), in and out fuel lines. After that there are 4x12mm nuts to be taken out, so you can get the whole filter assembly out of the car. Extended 12mm socket is the right tool for this job.





Then just remove the housing (2x12mm bolt).



Take the water sensor out and put it back to the new filter. New filter to housing etc...



Assembly goes pretty much in reverse, but new filter must be primed before connecting return fuel line. It usually takes 30-40 pushes from the primer pump before fuel starts coming out. After that just connect the return fuel line, put turbo intake pipe back and fire it up.