[this guy]

Hi,

Probably a futile post but I thought I'd give it a go anyway.

I think I might have an issue with my GD being a bit jerky during gear changes and acceleration/deceleration.

Firstly, it seems to be somewhat more difficult to upshift or downshift without jerking the car than it is in the two FD's I regularly have access to. In the FD's, if I am for example accelerating in 3rd and upshift to 4th, once the revs drop to the approprate speed for the next gear, I can swiftly let go of the clutch and the clutch engagement is seamless. If I do that in the GD, the car jerks. I can compensate for this my slowing down my clutch release halfway and can usually get a more or less seamless engagement. But again, I have to put some effort into this unlike the FD where minimal effort is required.

Secondly, say that I am driving along at 80km/h in 6th and I take my foot off the accelerator, I get a slight jerk. If I put my foot back in the accelerator, it jerks once again. Again, if I do the same thing in an FD, there is no jerk, just relatively smooth acceleration/deceleration. Note that this is without touching the clutch pedal.

Lastly, sometimes when the clutch reaches friction point and beyond, I can hear a clunk or a 'thwack' sound. I had the dealer look at it and of course they claim that there is nothing wrong with the clutch. They demonstrated on a demostrator i30 in the new car yard, and it made the same sort of sound when the clutch engaged. So perhaps it is normal, but I am not convinced.

It could just be the way the GD clutches are that they require more driving finesse, but somehow I don't think so, considering my 2nd point which removes clutch operation from the equation.

Has anybody else experienced similar GD jerkyness and clunkiness?

Thanks.

[Shambles]

Certainly isn't a futile post.

I've noticed a jerking recently on my 2014 (26,000mile) GD. Foot off the gas at 40mph and the runoff will start to get jerky, almost like I'm pumping the pedal slightly.

Mine disappears if I actually touch the gas pedal.

Not too alarmed or concerned at the moment, and no idea about your clutch/gear issue.

[Doggie 1]

My GD has always had slightly more of a jerk (no, not the driver), when decelerating or accelerating than my FD did.
Not much but it is there.
It feels like a bit of play in the drive train.
When the car was new I was going to mention it to the dealership but it hasn't got any worse at 174,000 kms and I've just got used to it.

[CraigB]

My GD has always had slightly more of a jerk (no, not the driver), when decelerating or accelerating than my FD did.
Not much but it is there.
It feels like a bit of play in the drive train.
When the car was new I was going to mention it to the dealership but it hasn't got any worse at 174,000 kms and I've just got used to it.

I get the drivetrain flex/jerk as well, I'm wondering if the after market Veloster lower engine mount inserts will fit our i30's BTR released some last year to fix this exact problem Torque Solution Lower Engine Mount Inserts: 11+ Hyundai Veloster

[eye30]

I have experience similar.

All i do is release clutch slowwwwwwly rather than quickkkkkkly and this works for me

[Doggie 1]

@mb, it appears that you are a worm can opener.   

[this guy]

@mb, it appears that you are a worm can opener.   

Yes yes I tend to look for faults and potential problems. Paranoia perhaps

Just a note to readers regarding clutch clunking (which I forgot to mention, doesn't happen in the FD's, they are silent clutch engagers) - a good test is when the car is in an enclosed space e.g a garage (makes the sounds easier to hear when they bounce off the walls), have the gear stick in neutral and clutch depressed for several seconds to allow things to stop spinning. Then quickly release the clutch. There should be a thwack or loud click sort of sound.

[tohis]

Hi,

Probably a futile post but I thought I'd give it a go anyway.

I think I might have an issue with my GD being a bit jerky during gear changes and acceleration/deceleration.

 

I have exactly same symptoms in mine. I have mentioned about it at last service and the mechanic stated that there is indeed some jerkyness, but that didn't cause any further action. Our local dealer doesn't have a diesel demonstrator car, so couldn't do any comparison. It sure is quite difficult to do smooth gear changes without a thud. I can't say where that problem comes from, and I'm also a bit worried whether it will suddenly break down on some day. I think the clutch in mine was jumpy right from the new, but can't recall hearing any audible clunks until about a year later.

[Dazzler]

  I wonder what is different between FD and GD drivetrain? 

[Phil №❶]

Our cars are as smooth as silk 

[CraigB]

I wonder what is different between FD and GD drivetrain? 

Different engine/gearbox mounts allow slightly more give which creates a jerking effect if you're not smooth on the gear change, I don't get any clunking though...that sounds like letting the clutch off to quick

[tohis]

Regarding this issue, I'm booked in at Monday 20th for clutch plate replacement.

Some time ago I found out that my local dealer had a 2013 i30 CRDi 6MT, just like mine, for sale in their yard so I thought this is right time to go discussing about the issue. I then asked if I could test drive that other one for comparing how its clutch feels, but they were reluctant about that unless the customer were about to buy it. I then said I don't need to drive it, just to start it and lift the clutch for listening for possible 'clunk' sound. I then got the key and went to test, and I heard only very faint click, so I then could say to them that mine is much worse.

They then booked me in for inspecting my car, and during that visit the mechanic test drove it with me and he got the idea of it. The service manager told me that they will do a warranty request for the clutch plate and will call me later. Now they called and told the request were accepted and I'll get a new clutch plate (don't know if I get also other parts). They even promised me a courtesy car while mine is fixed. 

However, I'm not sure if the clutch gets any better after replacing it, but that was their diagnosis, I only told them about the symptoms. 

[asathorny]

I think it would be idiotic to replace the disk and not replace the release bearing and pressure plate 

[Dazzler]

I think it would be idiotic to replace the disk and not replace the release bearing and pressure plate 

Tricky one ASA, if tohis pushes it, he might get nothing (or a big bill!)

[this guy]

Regarding this issue, I'm booked in at Monday 20th for clutch plate replacement...The service manager told me that they will do a warranty request for the clutch plate and will call me later. Now they called and told the request were accepted and I'll get a new clutch plate (don't know if I get also other parts)...However, I'm not sure if the clutch gets any better after replacing it, but that was their diagnosis, I only told them about the symptoms. 

Keep us informed. When I had my dealership look at my car, they insisted there is nothing wrong with the clutch even after demonstrating the clunk. Perhaps they are just trying to get out of a warranty claim or perhaps its just the design that makes the clutch grab, but considering that the predecessors (FD) were nice and smooth, one does wonder why they'd make superseding clutches clunky and jerky. I've only ever driven my GD and haven't had the opportunity to test another one, so I really don't know how others compare.

[tohis]

Update: The clutch plate has been replaced and it feels better than before, but those symptoms described earlier are not completely gone. It does not seem to 'clunk' during starting to move, but if deliberately playing with it by lifting the pedal few times with 1st gear engaged I can still produce the clunk. Also it may still do the thud when shifting into 2nd or 3rd gear. The pedal biting point is now a bit closer to the floor, which makes it easier to engage it smoothly.

At the dealer they didn't describe much of what was done and found, other that only the clutch plate was replaced (no new pressure plate and bearing). I guess those damper springs in the clutch plate had gotten weak, which partially caused those clunks and a bit of stuttering when starting to move. Just for testing I lifted one wheel up by car jack and tried moving it back and worth while the gear was engaged, and I heard the familiar clunking, however I have heard that before in my previous cars. The other part of clunking may come from the inner joints of the drive shafts.

I guess I have to live with this, and be happy about the replacement which was a partial success. At least the car will be fully drivable without worries about breaking down any time, and the dealer will not ask much questions about that when trading it in some day.

Meanwhile, I was driving two days by this courtesy car, 2016 Opel Astra 1.0 ECT. I noticed the steering was a bit better than in my i30 (better self-centering) but still not excellent, and the 3-cylinder 1.0 turbo petrol engine was not a rocket but still providing enough power for casual driving. The best part was significantly quieter noise levels; they know how to insulate the tyre noise (Hyundai, you have something to learn!). The worst part was the ECT "robotic" A/T which is not a dual-clutch, but just a regular manual tranny and clutch operated by the ECU. It was awfully slow to shift, causing some gray hairs at intersections when trying to move after almost stopping, and was very tricky to drive into my car shed. No wonder it had some scratches in the right front fender.