[Mal]

Hi Folks
My drivers side rear door lock won't work now and again and its getting more frequent. 
At least twice a week now.
I'm guessing its the actuator that's faulty, but that's just a guess and I've not been in there as yet to look at it. 
Has anyone replaced the actuator and can give some guidance on this.
I found a simple 'walk through' on a different model on the UK site, link below.
Also the Hyundai part for this is around $423 so I'm guessing, (again), one from a breaker at around $100 will be the way to go.
Unfortunately that come with a risk i.e. it could be on its 'way out' too ?
So, can anyone assist with the best place to find a replacement and a 'how too guide' of some sort please !     
Mal         

Gen 3 Door Lock / Actuator Replacement : DIY Guides: Electrical, Audio & Lighting - The UK Hyundai Coupe Club

[Dazzler]

Hi Mal, the fact it is intermittent would pretty much confirm it's an actuator. If it was a cable or anything mechanical it would just stop working.

I'm surprised they are that dear! I haven't searched, but I would have imagined a brand new one direct from Korea would have only been $100 or less? The way I understand it they are basically a fairly simple solenoid switch. 

One of our "Advisors" should know more.

[Mal]

Thanks Dazzler
I hope one of those 'advisers' can help.
It packed up all together last night, so I cant open the door at all ! 
Next question is how do I open the door to get into the panel ?
I hope there's a way to do it other than remove the hinges .... ! 
Help !
Mal     

[Mal]

Hi Dazzler
Nothing has appeared on the site but thankfully I was able to jigger around with the internal locking button along with the remote and finally open the door ! 
With the panel off I can now see a little more of whats entailed. I stress the words 'a little more'.
They don't make cars like they used to, do they ! 
Assembly line module construction - how else would you do it these days I guess !   
I found an interesting youtube video on a '2008 Hyundai Santa Fe door module removal' showing how the internals are located and the general procedure for removal. 
Apparently once the window is disconnected and taped up out of the way, the locks detached from the door and some wiring looms unplugged, all the 'guts' so to speak, comes out on one panel.
Looks like a challenge but never the less, has to be done.
I bet once you've done a couple of these it would be quite easy, but the first is always the hardest isn't it !
All the best - Mal 
           


       

[Dazzler]

Hi Mal, good effort so far. Not quite sure why nobody is offering assistance with this one? 

I'll tag our advisors and anyone else who can help!

@cruiserfied @tw2005 @nzenigma @anyone else

Advice on changing a door lock actuator please. 

[tw2005]

Don't have much in advice, it won't be fun. I've done a window reg swap on drivers front so that's 80% of the way there.

What's the plan though? you got a spare to put in or taking the car off the road?

I take the glass out, wiring harnesses could restrict and may need to remove the clips to get greater range of movement.

assuming rear is similar to the front, there's plastic fingers on the regulator that clip into the lock assembly.

For the external handle, I think there's a single screw or bolt on the inner end of the door that is removed and that lets the plastic end cap to come off.

The handle locks into the latch assembly, sliding it left unlocks it and should then come out. From there I would presume the bolts that secure the lock to the door come out and then the assembly itself . the cables are integral with it. From memory i had fun getting my fingers in to disconnect the electrical harness from the lock.

[nzenigma]

Gerards got you well started. Inner lining off. You need to drop the window down about half way and the securing screw (only one on the rear from memory) will line up with a hole on the unpainted panel. I have a spare switch that I plug in to move it up and down, you may need to use yours. When the screw is undone, you can creep the motor up higher and lift the glass out from outside.
Take the outside door handle off. It is held on by one 8mm bolt (which you will drop inside so be careful when reversing this procedure. Remove the rubber bung on the inside edge of the door. Bolt head is 25mm away.
With 8mm bolt backed off or removed lift off the smallest part of the handle, the larger bit you normally pull on, slides backward and off.
 With a torx (star) driver , unbolt the door lock- . Unplug any electrical plugs, remove the 10mm bolts holding the inner panel and ( I think  ) panel and lock mech will come out as one unit, cables still attached.

A wrecker should sell you another lock/actuator for about $30-50. They are not a high risk component so would not even consider buying a new one.

[Dazzler]

Thanks Guys, rather Mal than me! Sounds tricky.. my dexterity isn't what it used to be. 

[sundiz]

I had issues withw the rear door locks, but I guess it was due lack of lubrication. When temps went below -20'C last winter the locks started toto have issues. Some WD-40 to the lock mechanism made them work much better.

[nzenigma]

Forget the car, get a Ski-doo .  I lived in -25C to -40C Alberta, just finding my car was bad enough let alone driving it.
But Canadians are sensible people, they light big bonfires, drink lots of Canadian Club and go mad on 100mph.+ Ski-doos. The girls are pretty too. 

[Mal]

Hi folks
Many thanks for the all the help that came through in the end.   
I was able to pick up a second hand actuator from a breaker in Welshpool Rd for $100 which seems to be the going  price in WA. That's $323 saved straight away.   
After viewing the mentioned video's again I set to it and got as far as the screw that grips the window at the bottom of the glass, (mentioned by nzenigma).
No matter how much pressure I put on that screw it wouldn't budge.
I was using the right size screwdriver and even tried a set of Mole's on the shaft to turn the thing but 'no go'.
What to do ?
I thought about drilling it out but I thought there may be a capture nut the the other side that may get damaged and all sorts of trouble coming my way, especially when your working in such a tight place.
Well. I knew of a very good local mechanic that Ive used for servicing a Pulsar a while ago and found him to be very honest and straight to deal with so with the trim removed I took the lot up to him to look at.
He quoted 30 to 40 minutes to do the job, slipping it in with his booked work the following day.
I didn't argue with that, in fact I felt very relieved indeed.
I delivered the car the following day and he was going to call me when it was ready.
Around 3pm I got a call and he explained how it was a complicated and awkward little job.
I was waiting to hear how the 30 to 40 minutes had blown out to maybe an hour or 2  but it never came.
In fact he charged me exactly what he quoted which I though was very reasonable indeed for the work involved.
He even put all the trim back on after I said leave that to me as I know he would be busy.
I guess that's what happens when you deal with a good, honest mechanic with integrity.
I'm sure he gets many recommendations from his customers and he will get many from me too. 
Many thanks Shane, a great job & well done.
So, hopefully this little exercise along with the great explanation of how to do it (if your game!) may help someone else out there.
My 2011 i30 has 166k on the clock and runs better than ever - long may that continue.
I might just add I replaced the second set of tires from new at 160K.
The kumho's  I fitted after the factory rubber where KH18's which gave great service and so I fitted the same tire.
That took some effort as it seems tire manufactures are supplying only certain models to pacific retailers now.
I heard so many stories or how they were no longer made etc as I called into tire retailers that didn't have them.
My local Tire Power came up with the goods, off the shelf and at a great price.
The moral of this seems to be shop local doesn't it ! 

All the best guys and many thanks

Mal   



         

     
         
 
   
 

         


           
             
   

[Surferdude]

Good news and thanks for the update.

[Dazzler]

Good on you Mal and you too Shane! You can mention his business details on here if you like and let him know. I'm sure he'd be chuffed (as the poms say)

[tw2005]

the screw that grips the window at the bottom of the glass, (mentioned by nzenigma).
No matter how much pressure I put on that screw it wouldn't budge.
I was using the right size screwdriver and even tried a set of Mole's on the shaft to turn the thing but 'no go'.
What to do ?
I thought about drilling it out but I thought there may be a capture nut the the other side that may get damaged and all sorts of trouble coming my way, especially when your working in such a tight place.
 

Well I'm somewhat lost with that commentary. "Set of Mole's" what on earth are they?

Are you talking about the clamping bolt which is a 10mm hex head with a star slot in it? They put a dab of loctite on the thread and it gets undone just enough to release the pressure on the glass.

[Shambles]

"Set of Mole's" what on earth are they?

Mole grips (locking pliers)?

[tw2005]

"Set of Mole's" what on earth are they?

Mole grips (locking pliers)?

Thought that may be it, not a common name I've heard.

[nzenigma]

"Set of Mole's" what on earth are they?

Mole grips (locking pliers)?

Thought that may be it, not a common name I've heard.

Thought that's what you used to get your glow plugs out?         Sorry 

[tw2005]

"Set of Mole's" what on earth are they?

Mole grips (locking pliers)?

Thought that may be it, not a common name I've heard.

Thought that's what you used to get your glow plugs out?         Sorry 

  I wish. If only it was that easy

[Mal]

Thanks Shambles - I thought everyone would know what 'Moles' were  .....
I was introduced to these when I was a young lad and I can say they've got me out of many a difficult situation.
Bear in mind they don't replace the right size socket or spanner, they have an amazing amount of applications.
You might want to check them out one day when your in a good tool store.
All the best
Mal       

[Dazzler]

Thanks Shambles - I thought everyone would know what 'Moles' were  .....
I was introduced to these when I was a young lad and I can say they've got me out of many a difficult situation.
Bear in mind they don't replace the right size socket or spanner, they have an amazing amount of applications.
You might want to check them out one day when your in a good tool store.
All the best
Mal       

Funny, a couple of moles used to work at our local tool store, but I think they've left now... Oh, hang on... Sorry, wrong thread!

So they are a bit like pipe grips..

[nzenigma]

You just had to say that Dazz.....:

I thought everyone would know what 'Moles' were  .....
I was introduced to these when I was a young lad

...before I did

[mickd]

Thanks Shambles - I thought everyone would know what 'Moles' were  .....
I was introduced to these when I was a young lad and I can say they've got me out of many a difficult situation.
Bear in mind they don't replace the right size socket or spanner, they have an amazing amount of applications.
You might want to check them out one day when your in a good tool store.
All the best
Mal       

Funny, a couple of moles used to work at our local tool store, but I think they've left now... Oh, hang on... Sorry, wrong thread!

So they are a bit like pipe grips..

Ah yes, both types bring back memories.
"mole grips " - vice grips / locking pliers. 
We used to buy the very small ones and clamp the flex hose to the rear brakes - no linelocks back then .   

[nzenigma]

Ahh ... remember the good old days;  mention moles and you immediately think of tools that worked.