[tw2005]

Here's a set of bushes and joints for the front end. Symptoms which have been present for a year . Graunching noises plus the steering feels a tad heavy like it's not tracking right, also both my i30s have the same issue. The smaller bush the rubber unbonds from the metal guide and then the arm is essentially floating.

I could detect variations in track when braking and overtaking crossing over to opposite camber required more correction than normal to keep the car straight.

The oEM items are cheap as chips from Korea but with post blows out some.

For the astute I figured out the same company has two profiles and pricing strategies in Ebay.

 Multiple items proved cheaper going with Auto Parts Plus. Full set both sides $80 delivered order Monday get Friday.

[tw2005]

Fitted to an old set of arms, and installed into the car along with new ball joints and fresh KYB Excel-G struts.
Unfortunately looks like I misdiagnosed my front noise. Originaly I thought sway bar bushes, then saw how these bushes seoarate and thought it would be that. My wagon had the same issue and swapped over the whole front from a low k vehicle and it went away.

Forgot I swapped the whole bar and bushes too.

Not a waste though. they were torn and cracking. Definitely firmer and steering lighter. Turns a bit sharper too now. Originals from 2008 and 200 000K. Can't complain.

[tw2005]

WARNING!!

Do not buy FEBEST  products.

12 months later the ball joint boots are gone and FULCRUMs have reported the joints are worn.

What annoys me is I only replaced them because I was in there doing the other items which I am now also worried about.

I got what I paid for but did not expect they would be that bad

[The Gonz]

Thanks for sharing, mate. No sign of trouble with Firty yet but the good info is appreciated.

[tw2005]

Thought I'd tack onto this thread.

OEM BJs arrived, Ex Korea from KORAPS $100 delivered via EBay

Point to note. No Nut or pin supplied as per the parts breakdown they're extras



Order placed on
Wednesday, Apr 4, 2018

Dispatched from Korea Economy Air.

April 9 2018

delivered Auspost today

23 April 18


 

[Dazzler]

Thought I'd tack onto this thread.

OEM BJs arrived, Ex Korea from KORAPS $100 delivered via EBay

Point to note. No Nut or pin supplied as per the parts breakdown they're extras



Order placed on
Wednesday, Apr 4, 2018

Dispatched from Korea Economy Air.

April 9 2018

delivered Auspost today

23 April 18

 

Was it $100 just for that x 1 

[tw2005]

I was talking plural, just see another bag to the right.

Pair 

They want $160 ea at the Dealer, and there's none in QLD anyway.

[Dazzler]

I was talking plural, just see another bag to the right.

Pair 

They want $160 ea at the Dealer, and there's none in QLD anyway.

That's better. Nothing's cheap these days...

[tw2005]

I was talking plural, just see another bag to the right.

Pair 

They want $160 ea at the Dealer, and there's none in QLD anyway.

That's better. Nothing's cheap these days...

got these too from local dude. $50

Don't tell anyone

[tw2005]

If the prodigal son ever returns with my car so I can get these joints in I'll put the post mortem up on these Febests

[Dazzler]

 

[tw2005]

12 month old about 20 000k

[Dazzler]

12 month old about 20 000k

Poor quality non genuine or dodgy mechanic installed them... 

[tw2005]

12 month old about 20 000k

Poor quality non genuine or dodgy mechanic installed them... 

I'm going with poor quality because I installed these !

[CraigB]

Geez, 20k and they're stuffed if they die that quick might be worth spending the extra and fit it out with nolathane bushes.

[tw2005]

Geez, 20k and they're stuffed if they die that quick might be worth spending the extra and fit it out with nolathane bushes.

Yeah well I'm expecting the arm bushes to be short live too , hopefully not a catastrophic failure and end up in a ditch

[CraigB]

Yeah well I'm expecting the arm bushes to be short live too , hopefully not a catastrophic failure and end up in a ditch

[beerman]

1 year 20,000k, my XD Falcon used to chew them like that......

[tw2005]

1 year 20,000k, my XD Falcon used to chew them like that......

Thank god things have progressed from then

[tw2005]

May as well keep tacking onto this since it's related.  So after redoing the ball joints, new tyres and having a wheel alignment  and inspection lined up with Fulcrum on monday i thought it was time to get cracking and finish the other items needing attention.

that being the sway bar bushes which had become hard with age and groan when they get hot and my annoying rack rattle.

I'd already checked out the MDPS coupler and it was perfect which left either the intermediate  shaft or rack. there's no play in the shaft , rack it is .

I've had a 41000k rack gathering dust but until recently I did not have the required diagnostic to reset or recalibrate the steering system.

If you don't have one, my advice is don't do this or you'll have to pay someone who can.

Unfortunately like a lot of cars these day the front is all built up in a frame and then installed, perfect except when you need to access something simple like the bolts on the clamps for the bushes for they are inaccessible and  tucked just under the floor when it's all up there.

To do this the whole front frame with the motor/trans, suspension etc has to be lowered. Keep in mind the  steering rack input shaft is attached so that will limit how far, I disconnected it , again this may cause a drama getting it back together.



I've marked a few mounting points. Red are the sway bar mounts, orange are the rack mounts and green is the rear roll stopper which sits across the rack. You could imagine how tight it all is.




jacked the front up, high enough to get jack stands in either front corners under the tow points

remove the wheels, remove the under tray

placed second set of stands under normal jack points (redundancy)

remove bolts from rear roll stopper to frame and engine bracket

place a scissor jack at front and rear of subframe to support

disconnect  steering intermediate shaft from rack input shaft( dash undertray will likely need removal)

remove 14mm bolts, nuts and 19mm nut from support stays and subframe at firewall end

crack loose the two main bolts in the frame at the front corners and unscrew but leave threaded in several threads

disconnect tie rod ends front front hubs( not needed if the rack is staying) and the sway bar link rods

gradually lower front and rear scissor jacks to lower the frame. the rear will need to come down to the pint no threaded portion of the dowels will be exposed.

you should now be able to get to the 14mm bolts for the sway mounts, 1/4 in drive and extension could be handy as is a flexi joint adaptor for the ratchet.

The rear roll stopper will need to be moved clear for the rack to come out and there are 4 17mm bolts

at this point I rolled the rack on its side and slid it out from the drivers side.

new rack was refitted prior to the sway bar

I cleaned up the sway bar surface with very fine wet and dry sandpaper and wd40. there were high spots from build up maybe material stuck from the old bush. once clean and smooth I then lubed the new bush with red rubber grease and refitted.

reverse too refit

I had a hard time getting th esplines and int shaft to play the game, a little wd40 helped. the locking /clamp bolt for these only goes in if the shaft is in the cirrect position and needs to be fully removed to separate the shafts.

Once it was all back , test drive and found straight away the wheel substantially off left. too much to tolerate and caused ESP to shutdown.

recentred wheel but still ESP would not correct requiring ASP  (Absolute Steering
Position) calibration procedure. This is where the diagnostic tool came up trumps and why I've baulked at this.

Once completed and DTCs cleared , finsl test drive

End result , absolute magic. No more rattly knocks and a front end that is quiet and compliant just like a new car.

The only original parts now are the strut mounts and sway links.

Tragic bit is I need to do the tractor as well as I'm fairly confident th esway bar is the main culprit with the clunks, getting motivated to do this again, 

At least the rack is staying

[Dazzler]

You are a machine Gerard (in a good way)!

Lucky you enjoy doing this stuff. 

I'm sure you must wear stuff out or drive over potholes just so you can get your hands dirty! 

[tw2005]

Final FULCRUM report is in. 

Mrs drove the car and even she was impressed with how well it drove now.

Only minor adjustments needed. So on this car i have ,
removed replaced all shocks,
remove/rebush/replace front arms
removed/replace ball joints(twice)
removed, rebushed replaced sway bar bushes
removed/replaced rack from another i30

Rear, only shocks replaced nothing else touched.

It would have been nice to see the figures with the old rack as I suspect the toe-in must have been way out.

anyway this is the final figures, $49 an absolute bargain and no upsellling

[Dazzler]

 

[tw2005]

It's TRACTOR DAY!

Tractor getting it's 10 year old 384000K sway bushes replaced. Not only do these go hard and groan with age, these i have confirmed are the cause of the horrible clunks in the front end as they have worn, fossilised and shrunk.

[Dazzler]

With the colour of that underside, I see why you call it the tractor! 

[tw2005]

Good opportunity for some more refurb work on the road blasted surfaces that have no paint protection.

You'll see below, the diameter difference between new and worn out.

Paint worn off the bar also means diameter change.

metal braces

Subframe drop


IN PROGRESS.................IN PROGRESS...................IN PROGRESS..............IN PROGRESS.................IN PROGRESS...................IN PROGRESS





[img width=800 [/blink]http://height=560]https://i.imgur.com/pBdkyV2.jpg[/img]

[Dazzler]

 

[mickd]

Yep, there're worn 
Won't hear a sound when completed      

There is a rust  prevention coating that  can be painted on, apparently quite hard that might take the  road blasting a bit better. ( Fcked if I can remember it's name today , maybe someone else does)

[Dazzler]

Yep, there're worn 
Won't hear a sound when completed      

There is a rust  prevention coating that  can be painted on, apparently quite hard that might take the  road blasting a bit better. ( Fcked if I can remember it's name today , maybe someone else does)

This should just about cover it...

Brush on automotive rust inhibitor - Google Search

This looks like a good start...

Rust Prevention - Supercheap Auto

[tw2005]

FINISHED............FINISHED............FINISHED............FINISHED............FINISHED............FINISHED............FINISHED.........

All done like a dogs dinner, And yes Mick good as new, no noise and very supple now.

Clearly these bushes contribute greatly to how much harshess transmits through the chassis.

I reckon i could blindfold anyone in any of my cars and they think they were pretty low Ks

i30 FD 2008 Sway bushes. Worn out 384000k - YouTube

Also need to mention a couple of things. Ended up having to pull the rack out as I decided to swap out the sway bar.

Also I was wrong in saying the steering intermediate shaft locates only in on e place, I had more light and clearly it can locate on the splines in any position however there was a white paint mark from factory so I had no issue getting it aligned correctly.

Nil issue with the steering, this car does not have ESP.

Also spotted a loose rack gator so new zip tie and a smear of permatex gray RTV sealed that up.