[Misha]

So it looks like I’m in need of replacing my glow plugs, much to my disappointment.

Want to know what’s the opionin on OEM vs NGK?

OEM : GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay
NGK : NGK SET OF 4 GLOW PLUGS Y-527J x 4 for KIA SOUL HYUNDAI i30cw i30 10/2007~2015 5054716394002 | eBay

Also anyone have suggestions for a semi reasonable priced torque wrench the mesures torque both direction. Need atleast 10nm-40nm range

Taking out glow plugs do I require a deep socket ? Or will regular do?

What’s a decent penetrating oil to use ?

[Dazzler]

Good luck with it Misha. Let's hope they come out without any dramas! I think it is a pretty straight forward job if they do.

There are a couple of threads on here about them getting stuck and the dramas involved with that, but there is also some worthwhile tips in those same threads about do's and don'ts.

Someone might supply links along with a few tips. 

[tw2005]

Up until 30 Apr 2010 the OEMs were NGK, 36710-2A100 or Y527J

then they went 36710-2A200 which are a Hyundai labelled YURA plug or Yuratech I think.


Remove them with a warm motor

How did you confirm they're bad?

Once you remove the glow plug plate, I'd go with a 12mm deep socket. It has a tall post on it.  1/4 drive may give a better feel with less torque




shop around, should be able to get a set for $100 genuine. I see some places charging $50 per plug for NGK

GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay

[Misha]

Up until 30 Apr 2010 the OEMs were NGK, 36710-2A100 or Y527J

then they went 36710-2A200 which are a Hyundai labelled YURA plug or Yuratech I think.


Remove them with a warm motor

How did you confirm they're bad?

Once you remove the glow plug plate, I'd go with a 12mm deep socket. It has a tall post on it.  1/4 drive may give a better feel with less torque




shop around, should be able to get a set for $100 genuine. I see some places charging $50 per plug for NGK

GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay

MAY 2010 is when she says she was made when i open my passenger door. So the 36710-2A200 ( GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay) should be correct as best I can tell.

Haven't confirmed they are bad, as I don't own a multi-meter.... altho it is on my to acquire list 


For a few months now I've noticed on cold starts if i put my key in and leave it in the 'on' position for more then 10 or so seconds, and then try to start the engine the engine wont start, try's to but after 8 attempts of turning over i give up. I then take the key out, put it back in, and when the globes light go green , straight away try to start it again and it will start in 2-4 turn's.
This almost never happens if on first cold start up if i try to start the car soon after putting the key on the 'on' position and straight after the glow plug light has gone green start the car in 2-4 turns.
So i'm assuming they aren't holding there heat, and or/faulty.

Since then I've been noticing the past week or so on cold starts it struggles turn the engine over when turning the key. And when it finally does 5-8 turns it blows white smoke and is really rough start/idling (bouncing around between 950-1050rpm apx). After giving it a little fuel via the accelerator it smooths out a little, but not completely till the engine warms up, after which there is no white smoke. After the engine has warmed up she idles well and hovers smooth around the 780rpm mark.


After shopping around today in store at Bunnings, repco, and supercheap I was unable to find a reasonably priced (<100$-150$) mark that torqued in both directions and had a range of at least 10-40nm.
So i'm thinking now of buying the 4 plugs mentioned above and seeing if any local mechanic will fit them for me, and the labor i assume will cost less then buying a decent two way torque wrench, and a reamer. I don't want to try it without a torque wrench and bust one off in my engine ......... that would be a horrible experience ....

[tw2005]

I think either glow plug would work fine, anyway, it's a bit of an assumption that all 4 are bad. Would be handy to have some evidence of what is happening.

I've just changed out a set mainly because one of mine was having a lumpy start.  1 of 4 plugs was actually burnt out.

Did the  set, still had a bit of a lumpy start.

Have since had trouble getting it to fire like it use too.  I wait for the glow to go, then a few seconds and crank and crank with no go

turn off, start again and it fires up quicker.

Crank is starting to sound weak, I suspect my battery is weak, had it tested today and only 390 cca for a rated 600 so it's on its way.

Just saying, other things can contribute to the issue.

You can go to any Supercheap and they'll do a free battery analysis

[Misha]

I think either glow plug would work fine, anyway, it's a bit of an assumption that all 4 are bad. Would be handy to have some evidence of what is happening.

I've just changed out a set mainly because one of mine was having a lumpy start.  1 of 4 plugs was actually burnt out.

Did the  set, still had a bit of a lumpy start.

Have since had trouble getting it to fire like it use too.  I wait for the glow to go, then a few seconds and crank and crank with no go

turn off, start again and it fires up quicker.

Crank is starting to sound weak, I suspect my battery is weak, had it tested today and only 390 cca for a rated 600 so it's on its way.

Just saying, other things can contribute to the issue.

You can go to any Supercheap and they'll do a free battery analysis

When to Supercheap, battery test came back good.
After the last battery going dead on the 4 year mark I’ve been doing my utmost to treat this one well (apx 2 years in now)

Grabbed a multimeter aswell, and we will see what ohms the glow plugs read later when I get a chance.

[Misha]

Got my multi-meter today and put negative to ground, then positive to each glow plug. All read between 0.5-0.8 ohms.

Looks like an absolute pain in the arse getting behind the engine and removing them, checking them with the multi-meter was pain enough 

[tw2005]

Got my multi-meter today and put negative to ground, then positive to each glow plug. All read between 0.5-0.8 ohms.

Looks like an absolute pain in the arse getting behind the engine and removing them, checking them with the multi-meter was pain enough 

Was that done with the metal bar off? I think the NGKs were about 1 ohm.

Next step would be volts at the glow plug at ignition on position. Just do the same as resistance but have the meter set to dc volts able to measure up to 14v

Battery is good, and looking like glow resistance is ok.

Can  glow plugs be bad but still have normal resistance? That I don't know

[tw2005]

Should clarify, just in case,  have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage

[Misha]

Should clarify, just in case,  have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage

Yep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms.

Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not

[tw2005]

Should clarify, just in case,  have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage

Yep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms.

Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not

then in that case the value is not that helpful. With the metal plate connected this means all plugs are in parallel.  If all 4 read individually 1 ohm then in theory with everything connected a reading of 0.25 ohm would be expected.  Hard to tell if one or more plugs are bad doing what you've done.

[Misha]

Should clarify, just in case,  have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage

Yep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms.

Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not

then in that case the value is not that helpful. With the metal plate connected this means all plugs are in parallel.  If all 4 read individually 1 ohm then in theory with everything connected a reading of 0.25 ohm would be expected.  Hard to tell if one or more plugs are bad doing what you've done.

Cool beans, ill remove the wiring connector and cables and test them individually Didn't know this before .
Do i need to disconnect the battery at all doing this ? or doesn't matter ?

[The Gonz]

It shouldn't matter but, if you're not that sure how resistance measurements work, better with the battery disconnected.

[tw2005]

Should clarify, just in case,  have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage

Yep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms.

Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not

then in that case the value is not that helpful. With the metal plate connected this means all plugs are in parallel.  If all 4 read individually 1 ohm then in theory with everything connected a reading of 0.25 ohm would be expected.  Hard to tell if one or more plugs are bad doing what you've done.

Cool beans, ill remove the wiring connector and cables and test them individually Didn't know this before .
Do i need to disconnect the battery at all doing this ? or doesn't matter ?

So long as the car is off and it's put back how it was, should not be an issue.  The ends of the plate are open so you won't have to remove the nuts completely, should save you from losing one into the never never. 10mm nut on the connector

That's item 36720 in the image.



Found this, have not read it yet.
Testing and replacing glowplugs on a Hyundai i30 CRDi diesel engine

[Misha]

Should clarify, just in case,  have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage

Yep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms.

Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not

then in that case the value is not that helpful. With the metal plate connected this means all plugs are in parallel.  If all 4 read individually 1 ohm then in theory with everything connected a reading of 0.25 ohm would be expected.  Hard to tell if one or more plugs are bad doing what you've done.

Cool beans, ill remove the wiring connector and cables and test them individually Didn't know this before .
Do i need to disconnect the battery at all doing this ? or doesn't matter ?

So long as the car is off and it's put back how it was, should not be an issue.  The ends of the plate are open so you won't have to remove the nuts completely, should save you from losing one into the never never. 10mm nut on the connector

That's item 36720 in the image.



Found this, have not read it yet.
Testing and replacing glowplugs on a Hyundai i30 CRDi diesel engine

Removed all nuts and the plate, didn't loose any nuts into the nether which i'm thankful for 

After re-testing the glow plugs they say :

PLUG 1 : 1.0Ω
PLUG 2 : 0.5Ω
PLUG 3 : 0.5Ω
PLUG 4 : 1.23MΩ  <<<<<<<

Triple tested all 4, and plug 4 kept coming back to 1.23MΩ

So success in finding the culprit i guess 


////EDIT

The resistance in the wires from the multimeter itself was 0.1Ω , so i guess subtract that from the above numbers.

[The Gonz]

Yep, 1.23MΩ is as good as open circuit, given that most garden variety multimeters have an internal resistance of 2MΩ anyway. It's a only a factor of millions between plug 4 and the rest.

[Misha]

Yep, 1.23MΩ is as good as open circuit, given that most garden variety multimeters have an internal resistance of 2MΩ anyway. It's a only a factor of millions between plug 4 and the rest.

Yep, was happy when it showed up on the LCD screen.



Got this from Supercheap , it’s not the beer neez , but does the job good enough as far as I can tell.

[The Gonz]

Good enough for government work. No workshop is complete without one.

[tw2005]

looks to be similar situation as mine with 1 dead although all 3 remaining had 1 ohm , 0.2 ohm on the leads, dead one started reading at 14 Meg ohms.

The 2 at 0.5 ohm is interesting being different to the other. 

I replaced the set, just seems logical.

Being devils advocate, I'd start with removal of the dead one first. If it goes pear shaped at least the snapped plug was already not useful anyway.

 

[sundiz]

Tools,  oil, heat and time. I started lubricating the threads about 1-1 1/2 weeks earlier. I used 50-50 acetone atf mix. Had no issues removing them. All 4 plugs were dead.

Glow Plug tips and tricks - YouTube

[Paolo5]

Hi Sundiz,
Did you use a reamer to remove the carbon deposits at the bottom of the glow plug channel? Was there much carbon there?

[sundiz]

I tried to get my hands on one, but the huyndai thread size is a bit rare. Only saw few suitable glow plug reamers online which would have costed about 100€. Therefore I did not use a reamer. But if you get your hands on one, I recommend using it. But as mentioned in my DIY topic, I did not have any issues not having a reamer.

I checked the glow plug hole with endoscope. There was a little bit of carbon dust at the bottom, but I just shot some pressurized air to the hole and that cleaned the hole enough to get the plugs to be seated properly.

[sundiz]

From the posted video link, I believe the best tip was to use moment rachet. I set my wrench to 30nm if I remember correctly. That was enough to open the plugs.

[Misha]

Job done, 2+hours of bending my knee's backwards  was more than enough for one afternoon.
Plug 2 and 3 came out with ease at ~12nm
Plug 4 took a bit more coaching at ~25nm
Plug 1 altho loosened at ~20nm was a huge pain as unscrewing it was a constant 12nm due to the carbon build up, even after the thread finished it was stuck and took a bit of coaching to come out.

Re-tested old plugs and they all read identical ohms as before.
Tested the new glow plugs, all around the 0.8-1.0Ω.

Didn't have a reamer, but did best i could removing old carbon. Plug 1 was bar far the worst for carbon powder crap at the bottom, and hardened carbon around the thread.
2,3,4 plugs went in fine with 15nm of force. But plug 1 I assume due to the carbon struggled to get down far enough, it still seems that its still about ~1 thread not in enough, but going past 15nm all the way to 20nm i wasn't going to push it any further.

Started the engine up and she started smooth and just after the 2nd kick/turn. She was idling around the <800rpm mark where she should be, as opposed to jumping around between 950-1050rpm rough idling like it was before. But tomorrow morning will be the better test on a cold morning and cold engine.

Cost of buying new stuff :
$100 set of OEM glow plugs GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6 L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay
$48 multimeter SCA Multimeter - Digital | Supercheap Auto
$249 cw/ccw 10-135nm torque wrench  http://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-boxtwd366-3-8-dr-digital-torque-wrench-13-5-135nm
Total :$400
Considering the few places i checked quoted me between $400-$500AUD, I think i ended up on top. Plus now I have a torque wrench which I've wanted for ages

 

[Dazzler]

Thanks for that update Misha,

Excellent post and great news. Fingers crossed for the morning.

.. and a multimeter. 

[Paolo5]

Well done, Misha!

[tw2005]

Job done, 2+hours of bending my knee's backwards  was more than enough for one afternoon.
Plug 2 and 3 came out with ease at ~12nm
Plug 4 took a bit more coaching at ~25nm
Plug 1 altho loosened at ~20nm was a huge pain as unscrewing it was a constant 12nm due to the carbon build up, even after the thread finished it was stuck and took a bit of coaching to come out.

Re-tested old plugs and they all read identical ohms as before.
Tested the new glow plugs, all around the 0.8-1.0Ω.

Didn't have a reamer, but did best i could removing old carbon. Plug 1 was bar far the worst for carbon powder crap at the bottom, and hardened carbon around the thread.
2,3,4 plugs went in fine with 15nm of force. But plug 1 I assume due to the carbon struggled to get down far enough, it still seems that its still about ~1 thread not in enough, but going past 15nm all the way to 20nm i wasn't going to push it any further.

Started the engine up and she started smooth and just after the 2nd kick/turn. She was idling around the <800rpm mark where she should be, as opposed to jumping around between 950-1050rpm rough idling like it was before. But tomorrow morning will be the better test on a cold morning and cold engine.

Cost of buying new stuff :
$100 set of OEM glow plugs GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6 L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay
$48 multimeter SCA Multimeter - Digital | Supercheap Auto
$249 cw/ccw 10-135nm torque wrench  http://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-boxtwd366-3-8-dr-digital-torque-wrench-13-5-135nm
Total :$400
Considering the few places i checked quoted me between $400-$500AUD, I think i ended up on top. Plus now I have a torque wrench which I've wanted for ages

 

nice, The only concern I'd have is if that gummed up one which is lucky it came out, ok.

 if it has not seated , and gases get past it , then it's going to likely gum up again and could seize in there next time.

maybe a ream out could be good idea now. I don't have one and took a gamble on mine but they were spotless coming out.

Don't have the glow plug experience to comment much more

Well done

[Paolo5]

A few years ago (when Asterix had enormous trouble with sheared glow plugs in his i30) I searched for a reamer to suit the i30 diesel (M10x1.25) and found this one:-
LASER TOOLS GLOW GLO PLUG BASE APERTURE CLEANING & REAMER M8 M10 M12 | eBay
to be the most reasonably priced. It was much cheaper then! 

At the time, I rang a very well known diesel specialist in NSW (will not mention their name) and the mechanic that I spoke to had not even heard of glow plug aperture reamers! 

When I was in Austria a few years back, I couldn't help noticing that almost every vehicle there (it seemed) was a diesel. Maybe it's the size of our country and the amount of km that we do (compared to say, city running elsewhere) that dictates that we don't get as much carbon build-up as city-driving diesels in Europe...and there might not be the same need for these reamers.

I too would be concerned about the difficulty that you had fitting one of the glow plugs, Misha.


For our helpful mechanics out there...would it be an advantage to use something like this before attempting a glow plug replacement?

Liqui-Moly Diesel Engine Intake Decarb - 326g | Supercheap Auto

[Misha]

Job done, 2+hours of bending my knee's backwards  was more than enough for one afternoon.
Plug 2 and 3 came out with ease at ~12nm
Plug 4 took a bit more coaching at ~25nm
Plug 1 altho loosened at ~20nm was a huge pain as unscrewing it was a constant 12nm due to the carbon build up, even after the thread finished it was stuck and took a bit of coaching to come out.

Re-tested old plugs and they all read identical ohms as before.
Tested the new glow plugs, all around the 0.8-1.0Ω.

Didn't have a reamer, but did best i could removing old carbon. Plug 1 was bar far the worst for carbon powder crap at the bottom, and hardened carbon around the thread.
2,3,4 plugs went in fine with 15nm of force. But plug 1 I assume due to the carbon struggled to get down far enough, it still seems that its still about ~1 thread not in enough, but going past 15nm all the way to 20nm i wasn't going to push it any further.

Started the engine up and she started smooth and just after the 2nd kick/turn. She was idling around the <800rpm mark where she should be, as opposed to jumping around between 950-1050rpm rough idling like it was before. But tomorrow morning will be the better test on a cold morning and cold engine.

Cost of buying new stuff :
$100 set of OEM glow plugs GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6 L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay
$48 multimeter SCA Multimeter - Digital | Supercheap Auto
$249 cw/ccw 10-135nm torque wrench  http://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-boxtwd366-3-8-dr-digital-torque-wrench-13-5-135nm
Total :$400
Considering the few places i checked quoted me between $400-$500AUD, I think i ended up on top. Plus now I have a torque wrench which I've wanted for ages

 

nice, The only concern I'd have is if that gummed up one which is lucky it came out, ok.

 if it has not seated , and gases get past it , then it's going to likely gum up again and could seize in there next time.

maybe a ream out could be good idea now. I don't have one and took a gamble on mine but they were spotless coming out.

Don't have the glow plug experience to comment much more

Well done

Finished work, started her up, and was super rough with alot of white smoke  .
Got her home only to discover plug 1 worked its way loose ~3 threads upwards :/  . Plug 2-4 where still tight best i could tell, took a gander for carbon on plug 2, but 100% clean.
Took plug 1 out to have a gander only to see this : 
All new carbon nicely all gunked up. Cleaned it up a little bit before putting it back in, and from what i could tell i was able to seat it in properly this time on a freshly hot engine.

I'm quite concerned how much carbon there is in cylinder 1 ...... anyone have suggestions or idea's to remove some carbon ? @Paolo5 suggested moly intake decarb, might give that a go.

[tw2005]

Maybe time for the Hyundai Master Tech @cruiserfied