i30 Owners Club

Blown i30 6 speed box

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline tw2005

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,362

    • au Australia
      Ipswich
Agree that its all straight forward But>>>>>

But NOT Step 1 would be unscrew the knob.  :undecided:

Do not try that.

Sorry, doing a Lester here, but from memory under the knob there is a chrome thing, and under that is a pin that needs to be pulled out or pushed in.

  :wacko: its been a while since I dun wun.
:whistler:, oh well.......

The manual knob screws on and I think the interlock lifts off but the manual seems to have forgotten the manual shifter.

The Auto has a chrome collar that has to be pushed down then a threaded screw is undone to remove the shifter knob.


 :question:
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline tw2005

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,362

    • au Australia
      Ipswich
Elantra which has a slightly different centre console, implies the knob can stay on and the boot slips over .
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline Olympicon

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 86

    • gb United Kingdom
      Bristol
That’s the one I was looking at!

Thankfully the centre console is easy to replace, it lifts up/in clips from the end nearest the handbrake and just pulls out. Only need to undo the Velcro on the gear surround to lift the gaitor over. Hopefully find a decent quality second hand one part number for it is 846512l800
  • 2008 2.0 CRDi Premium


Offline Olympicon

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 86

    • gb United Kingdom
      Bristol
£362 for a new cable from the dealer. No words :crazy1:
  • 2008 2.0 CRDi Premium


Offline tw2005

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,362

    • au Australia
      Ipswich
£362 for a new cable from the dealer. No words :crazy1:
I was trying to be conservative, bit of a no brainer. Hope you purchased that on on Flea Bay, cause I found no other.
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline Olympicon

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 86

    • gb United Kingdom
      Bristol
Ordered the £40 one from eBay  :goodjob:
Although the transmission specialist said it was 5 hours book time to change... which is the same as the entire gearbox.
Taking it to my usual garage instead
  • 2008 2.0 CRDi Premium


Offline nzenigma

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,070

    • au Australia
      QLD
Agree that its all straight forward But>>>>>

But NOT Step 1 would be unscrew the knob.  :undecided:

Do not try that.

Sorry, doing a Lester here, but from memory under the knob there is a chrome thing, and under that is a pin that needs to be pulled out or pushed in.

  :wacko: its been a while since I dun wun.
:whistler:, oh well.......

The manual knob screws on and I think the interlock lifts off but the manual seems to have forgotten the manual shifter.

The Auto has a chrome collar that has to be pushed down then a threaded screw is undone to remove the shifter knob.

 :question:

 :D  now you know how to do both.....  it was a test :whistler:
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Olympicon

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 86

    • gb United Kingdom
      Bristol
Anyone got the guide for changing the cable assembly? Can’t find it on the workshop manual but the book time is 4.8 hours??  :scared:
  • 2008 2.0 CRDi Premium


Offline Olympicon

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 86

    • gb United Kingdom
      Bristol
Found it under Manual Transaxle Shift Control. But only when I changed the vehicle to a 2.0 petrol. For 2.0 and 1.6 diesel in 2008 it only shows automatic for some reason.
Anyway it looks fairly straight forward until you get to the part where it says “NOTICE In case, remove the crush pad and cowl cross bar (Refer to Crush pad in BD group and heater unit in HA group) that reads as if it’s optional, maybe the access to the bolts where the cable goes through the bulkhead isn’t easy and necessitates removing most of the dash
  • 2008 2.0 CRDi Premium


Offline nzenigma

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,070

    • au Australia
      QLD
No reference like that in my manual.
Might be something transcribed from another  manual and sounds like part of front off & gear box removal procedure.
The cables travel below the dash. not connected to it.
centre console needs to be loose.
You may need to unbolt front seats to get at side screws
just need to play it by eye, ear and brain.
Ive got several complete strips for parts mixed with air bag module repairs, so off top of my head, not sure of most economical method.   Cant remember anything challenging.
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Olympicon

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 86

    • gb United Kingdom
      Bristol
Cheers. Will give it a shot tomorrow! Can’t believe the cables are £360 from Hyundai there’s really nothing to them
  • 2008 2.0 CRDi Premium


Offline tw2005

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,362

    • au Australia
      Ipswich
Cheers. Will give it a shot tomorrow! Can’t believe the cables are £360 from Hyundai there’s really nothing to them
if you look in the Elantra manual of the same years you should find a bit more on the manual shift. I found  nothing in i30 and I thought I had mentioned this already
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline Olympicon

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 86

    • gb United Kingdom
      Bristol
What a nightmare. The two nuts holding the cover plate to the bulkhead are situation behind the heater matrix/unit hence the part about taking the dash out. Managed to get them off, took about an hour or so to get them back on and tightened up 1/8 of a turn at a time using a swan neck spanner and performing amateur acrobatics so I could see what I was doing.
If anyone else ends up having to do it - buy a 12mm ratchet spanner with a flexible head I think that could save a lot of time. Also used an extendable magnet (the ones for picking up dropped tools) to get the bits back in position without dropping them.

I’ll post some pics but like you can see in the video the hard plastic sheath around the cable on the box end is broken (it’s quite tough so wouldn’t just break on it’s own accord) and because of a piece of metal on the cable, this catches the broken plastic and prevents it moving further in that direction. Once it was busted it would have failed immediately I can’t see it having being broken and then caused the problems later on
« Last Edit: January 31, 2019, 18:28:21 by Olympicon »
  • 2008 2.0 CRDi Premium


Offline Dazzler

  • Admin
  • *
  • Laughter is the best medicine...
    • Posts: 67,423

    • au Australia
      Devonport Tasmania

  • Best Car Forum on the Net
I feel for you mate. I hate that sort of job. Awkward and frustrating!   :disapp:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline tw2005

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,362

    • au Australia
      Ipswich
What a nightmare. The two nuts holding the cover plate to the bulkhead are situation behind the heater matrix/unit hence the part about taking the dash out. Managed to get them off, took about an hour or so to get them back on and tightened up 1/8 of a turn at a time using a swan neck spanner and performing amateur acrobatics so I could see what I was doing.
If anyone else ends up having to do it - buy a 12mm ratchet spanner with a flexible head I think that could save a lot of time. Also used an extendable magnet (the ones for picking up dropped tools) to get the bits back in position without dropping them.

I’ll post some pics but like you can see in the video the hard plastic sheath around the cable on the box end is broken (it’s quite tough so wouldn’t just break on it’s own accord) and because of a piece of metal on the cable, this catches the broken plastic and prevents it moving further in that direction. Once it was busted it would have failed immediately I can’t see it having being broken and then caused the problems later on
Just think of the money you're saving
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline mickd

  • V.I.P
  • *
    • Posts: 4,301

    • au Australia
      Tura Beach ( Deep Deep South Coast) NSW
What a nightmare. The two nuts holding the cover plate to the bulkhead are situation behind the heater matrix/unit hence the part about taking the dash out. Managed to get them off, took about an hour or so to get them back on and tightened up 1/8 of a turn at a time using a swan neck spanner and performing amateur acrobatics so I could see what I was doing.
If anyone else ends up having to do it - buy a 12mm ratchet spanner with a flexible head I think that could save a lot of time. Also used an extendable magnet (the ones for picking up dropped tools) to get the bits back in position without dropping them.

I’ll post some pics but like you can see in the video the hard plastic sheath around the cable on the box end is broken (it’s quite tough so wouldn’t just break on it’s own accord) and because of a piece of metal on the cable, this catches the broken plastic and prevents it moving further in that direction. Once it was busted it would have failed immediately I can’t see it having being broken and then caused the problems later on
Just think of the money you're saving
Think those tools would have said "oh and your gear linkages are shot too, another 1000
  • 4/18 Kona H/lndr 1.6T 7dct & 2/18 DM5 Santa Fe H/lndr 2.2 6sp (9/16 Active X)


Offline nzenigma

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,070

    • au Australia
      QLD
I feel for you mate. I hate that sort of job. Awkward and frustrating!   :disapp:

Ok, lads time to take up the work load,  :whistler:  Dazz is no longer on the tools.  :evil:

Just think of the money you're saving

And all the experience, and all the proper tools  :cool:
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Olympicon

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 86

    • gb United Kingdom
      Bristol
Cheers guys! Yeah I was debating removing the dash but then it said ‘Remove left seat’ and apparently that’s where I draw the line  :lol:

I’m still waiting for the results of the faulty crank sensor but then I’ll be going to Hyundai UK and complaining, there’s no way this cable can just break where it as without interference
  • 2008 2.0 CRDi Premium


Unread Posts

 


SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal