[tw2005]

Agree that its all straight forward But>>>>>

But NOT Step 1 would be unscrew the knob. 

Do not try that.

Sorry, doing a Lester here, but from memory under the knob there is a chrome thing, and under that is a pin that needs to be pulled out or pushed in.

  its been a while since I dun wun.

, oh well.......

The manual knob screws on and I think the interlock lifts off but the manual seems to have forgotten the manual shifter.

The Auto has a chrome collar that has to be pushed down then a threaded screw is undone to remove the shifter knob.


 

[tw2005]

Elantra which has a slightly different centre console, implies the knob can stay on and the boot slips over .

[Olympicon]

That’s the one I was looking at!

Thankfully the centre console is easy to replace, it lifts up/in clips from the end nearest the handbrake and just pulls out. Only need to undo the Velcro on the gear surround to lift the gaitor over. Hopefully find a decent quality second hand one part number for it is 846512l800

[Olympicon]

£362 for a new cable from the dealer. No words

[tw2005]

£362 for a new cable from the dealer. No words

I was trying to be conservative, bit of a no brainer. Hope you purchased that on on Flea Bay, cause I found no other.

[Olympicon]

Ordered the £40 one from eBay 
Although the transmission specialist said it was 5 hours book time to change... which is the same as the entire gearbox.
Taking it to my usual garage instead

[nzenigma]

Agree that its all straight forward But>>>>>

But NOT Step 1 would be unscrew the knob. 

Do not try that.

Sorry, doing a Lester here, but from memory under the knob there is a chrome thing, and under that is a pin that needs to be pulled out or pushed in.

  its been a while since I dun wun.

, oh well.......

The manual knob screws on and I think the interlock lifts off but the manual seems to have forgotten the manual shifter.

The Auto has a chrome collar that has to be pushed down then a threaded screw is undone to remove the shifter knob.

 

   now you know how to do both.....  it was a test

[Olympicon]

Anyone got the guide for changing the cable assembly? Can’t find it on the workshop manual but the book time is 4.8 hours?? 

[Olympicon]

Found it under Manual Transaxle Shift Control. But only when I changed the vehicle to a 2.0 petrol. For 2.0 and 1.6 diesel in 2008 it only shows automatic for some reason.
Anyway it looks fairly straight forward until you get to the part where it says “NOTICE In case, remove the crush pad and cowl cross bar (Refer to Crush pad in BD group and heater unit in HA group) that reads as if it’s optional, maybe the access to the bolts where the cable goes through the bulkhead isn’t easy and necessitates removing most of the dash

[nzenigma]

No reference like that in my manual.
Might be something transcribed from another  manual and sounds like part of front off & gear box removal procedure.
The cables travel below the dash. not connected to it.
centre console needs to be loose.
You may need to unbolt front seats to get at side screws
just need to play it by eye, ear and brain.
Ive got several complete strips for parts mixed with air bag module repairs, so off top of my head, not sure of most economical method.   Cant remember anything challenging.

[Olympicon]

Cheers. Will give it a shot tomorrow! Can’t believe the cables are £360 from Hyundai there’s really nothing to them

[tw2005]

Cheers. Will give it a shot tomorrow! Can’t believe the cables are £360 from Hyundai there’s really nothing to them

if you look in the Elantra manual of the same years you should find a bit more on the manual shift. I found  nothing in i30 and I thought I had mentioned this already

[Olympicon]

What a nightmare. The two nuts holding the cover plate to the bulkhead are situation behind the heater matrix/unit hence the part about taking the dash out. Managed to get them off, took about an hour or so to get them back on and tightened up 1/8 of a turn at a time using a swan neck spanner and performing amateur acrobatics so I could see what I was doing.
If anyone else ends up having to do it - buy a 12mm ratchet spanner with a flexible head I think that could save a lot of time. Also used an extendable magnet (the ones for picking up dropped tools) to get the bits back in position without dropping them.

I’ll post some pics but like you can see in the video the hard plastic sheath around the cable on the box end is broken (it’s quite tough so wouldn’t just break on it’s own accord) and because of a piece of metal on the cable, this catches the broken plastic and prevents it moving further in that direction. Once it was busted it would have failed immediately I can’t see it having being broken and then caused the problems later on

[Dazzler]

I feel for you mate. I hate that sort of job. Awkward and frustrating!   

[tw2005]

What a nightmare. The two nuts holding the cover plate to the bulkhead are situation behind the heater matrix/unit hence the part about taking the dash out. Managed to get them off, took about an hour or so to get them back on and tightened up 1/8 of a turn at a time using a swan neck spanner and performing amateur acrobatics so I could see what I was doing.
If anyone else ends up having to do it - buy a 12mm ratchet spanner with a flexible head I think that could save a lot of time. Also used an extendable magnet (the ones for picking up dropped tools) to get the bits back in position without dropping them.

I’ll post some pics but like you can see in the video the hard plastic sheath around the cable on the box end is broken (it’s quite tough so wouldn’t just break on it’s own accord) and because of a piece of metal on the cable, this catches the broken plastic and prevents it moving further in that direction. Once it was busted it would have failed immediately I can’t see it having being broken and then caused the problems later on

Just think of the money you're saving

[mickd]

What a nightmare. The two nuts holding the cover plate to the bulkhead are situation behind the heater matrix/unit hence the part about taking the dash out. Managed to get them off, took about an hour or so to get them back on and tightened up 1/8 of a turn at a time using a swan neck spanner and performing amateur acrobatics so I could see what I was doing.
If anyone else ends up having to do it - buy a 12mm ratchet spanner with a flexible head I think that could save a lot of time. Also used an extendable magnet (the ones for picking up dropped tools) to get the bits back in position without dropping them.

I’ll post some pics but like you can see in the video the hard plastic sheath around the cable on the box end is broken (it’s quite tough so wouldn’t just break on it’s own accord) and because of a piece of metal on the cable, this catches the broken plastic and prevents it moving further in that direction. Once it was busted it would have failed immediately I can’t see it having being broken and then caused the problems later on

Just think of the money you're saving

Think those tools would have said "oh and your gear linkages are shot too, another 1000

[nzenigma]

I feel for you mate. I hate that sort of job. Awkward and frustrating!   

Ok, lads time to take up the work load,    Dazz is no longer on the tools. 

Just think of the money you're saving

And all the experience, and all the proper tools 

[Olympicon]

Cheers guys! Yeah I was debating removing the dash but then it said ‘Remove left seat’ and apparently that’s where I draw the line 

I’m still waiting for the results of the faulty crank sensor but then I’ll be going to Hyundai UK and complaining, there’s no way this cable can just break where it as without interference