[DaveBern]

Hello from a new member.  I bought a 2013 GD CRD wagon a few weeks ago with the low clutch issue.  It has 170K Km on it.  Before I bought it I got on the web and read the posts.  Easily fixed by removing the damper, I thought.  I  used this plug:
VSTI16x1.5EDCF | Parker, Steel Hydraulic Blanking Plug, Max Operating Pressure 400 bar, Thread Size M16 x 1.5 | RS Components
Which fitted perfectly.  problem is it made very little difference.
Sticking my head up under the pedals I saw the plastic master cylinder pushrod, and noticed that the clevis eye had worn significantly.  There was an inch of movement at the pedal before the pushrod started moving.  As a trial, I fashioned up a crescent of plastic from a piece of electrical conduit and jammed it in to take up the play.  Clutch is now much better.
I want to bush the plastic rod, or make up a new adjustable one.  Problem is I can't remove it.  Do I need to remove the master cylinder (which looks like a significant job) or can the pushrod be removed in situ?

Thanks
David.

[Dazzler]

Welcome Dave,

The main technical contributor to this thread seldom if ever visits the site any more. Let's hope someone else with similar technical expertise in this area can give a definitive answer. being this is a world wide forum with many time zones this can take a few days. 

[Lorian]

@DaveBern maybe some help in this thread

[SOLVED] Clutch master cylinder arm has come loose

[DaveBern]

Thanks Lorian.  I've seen that thread.  It's hard to see in the photo, but perhaps there was a washer swaged onto the end of that shaft.  That's an FD, where as the GD has an all plastic shaft as well as a plastic master cylinder.  It looks like I either have to try and do the job in situ, or remove the master cylinder which is a fairly big job if the FD explanation given in that thread applied to the GD too.

[DaveBern]

I found this on the web:
Hyundai Tucson - Clutch Master Cylinder Repair procedures - Clutch System
If the I30 is the same, it's easy as pie!!!

[DaveBern]

just an update.  The plastic piece I jammed in actually seems to be holding up.  10 days of daily use and no change in pedal position.  A look at the master cylinder confirms it is indeed a "bayonet mount" type, so removing it is really easy.  The only issue is containing the fluid as it feeds from the brake reservoir which contains quite a lot of fluid.  As the quick fix is holding up, there is no real urgency, but when I do fix it I'll show the results.
So, in summary from reading all the posts, it appears the the low clutch pedal can be due to a myriad of reasons, from the damper, to the slave cylinder, master cylinder, pushrod and one owner had to replace the clutch and pressure plate to solve his issue.