i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => GENERAL => Topic started by: tashiz86 on December 05, 2018, 02:20:19
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My 2010 SR has had a slight knock in the steering for a little while, and I was informed by a mechanic (ex boyfriend may I add) that it wasn't a safety issue, and could get it looked at when I had my next service.
the knocking has been getting worse, and today I have had both the EPS light and the ESP OFF light stay on while driving. I have looked at previous threads, but they have all said that the steering locked up. Mine hasn't locked up at all, and is still exactly the same.
I am taking it to a service department tomorrow (i used to work for a dealership for a different brand so they are happy to use the diagnostic tool for me) and will get them to scan it, however, does anyone have any idea as to what I will be looking at, money wise, for the repair?
With Christmas coming up, money is tight, and without my car, I cannot get to work, so money becomes even tighter! Just wanting to get a rough idea of what it might be and what I will be in for!
Also, I forgot to mention, according to Hyundai, my car has had all the relevant recall checks done. Apparently it was NOT a part of the recall in relation to the EPS.
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Sounds like the coupler bush inside the column that interfaces the motor and driven gear. Common failure point. They disintegrate as the material breaks down. Ballpark I have read around $250 - 300 non dealer. Part is worth 5 bucks but often charged round $30. Hyundai released a tech bulletin on the fix. Originally this bushing was not available as a spare.
Column removal. Replace bushing reinstall and steering calibration via diagnostic tools and that's about it. I did 3 of mine so far without calibration successfully.
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(https://i.ibb.co/Qp6Fh7Y/20180922-095740.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yd8nKmg)
(https://i.ibb.co/hgD58hd/20180922-095710.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZfWsTtg)
(https://i.ibb.co/4j7BbX8/20180608-182350.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XzbmnK7)
(https://i.ibb.co/Mf8vK37/20180608-162145.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qC0ShPp)
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Sounds like the coupler bush inside the column that interfaces the motor and driven gear. Common failure point. They disintegrate as the material breaks down. Ballpark I have read around $250 - 300 non dealer. Part is worth 5 bucks but often charged round $30. Hyundai released a tech bulletin on the fix. Originally this bushing was not available as a spare.
Column removal. Replace bushing reinstall and steering calibration via diagnostic tools and that's about it. I did 3 of mine so far without calibration successfully.
I have been quoted as $600 and that was non dealer! they have said they need to take the whole steering column out and replace the bush.
Will this get rid of the lights too? I am also going to ask the mechanics that are diagnosing it, if they can quote me for this bushing to be replaced.
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That's what they are replacing by the sounds of it. Get other prices and get codes scanned. Likely excessive play has triggered the error. Try Fulcrum suspension if they are around. Personally I think they're overcharging. 2 hrs worth of work for a pro. Others can share their opinion
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trying to dig up some historic posts, $300 mentioned here
:link: Eps light MY11 (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=51287.msg468933#msg468933)
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$240
:link: Steering knock (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=44476.msg456627#msg456627)
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Hyundai tech bulletin quotes 1.7hrs,
http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Technical-Service-Bulletin-14-ST-002-1.pdf (http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Technical-Service-Bulletin-14-ST-002-1.pdf)
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Hyundai tech bulletin quotes 1.7hrs,
http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Technical-Service-Bulletin-14-ST-002-1.pdf (http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Technical-Service-Bulletin-14-ST-002-1.pdf)
Love your work Gerard! Take a bow! :thanks: :hatoff:
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Hyundai tech bulletin quotes 1.7hrs,
http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Technical-Service-Bulletin-14-ST-002-1.pdf (http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Technical-Service-Bulletin-14-ST-002-1.pdf)
Love your work Gerard! Take a bow! :thanks: :hatoff:
Wot Dazz said! :victory:
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:wss: :whsaid: :wts:
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Very interesting,.
Has this issue been resolved in later models such as the PD series ?
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Very interesting,.
Has this issue been resolved in later models such as the PD series ?
At a rough guess I'd say Yes .
Emphasis on ensuring replacement part has "P" on body. Must be a different compound to original and possible early replacement parts. Nearly all manufacturer use same system.
Rubber bush between components has been around for years, motorcycle sprocket hub to wheel for example.
Some think too cheap a part originally, or reaction of part and grease from shaft bearing, similar to WD40 and rubber.
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Very interesting,.
Has this issue been resolved in later models such as the PD series ?
Never had this in a GD so assume PD will be ok
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Very interesting,.
Has this issue been resolved in later models such as the PD series ?
Never had this in a GD so assume PD will be ok
Thanks, that's reassuring to hear.