[Mike8]

As I mentioned in previous posts under "General Discussion", my i30 was making an unhealthy sound which was determined to be a timing chain problem. But due to the cost and complexity of doing the repairs with the engine still in the car, my mechanic suggested we get a low mileage motor from a Hyundai wrecker on the Sunshine Coast. He got one with supposedly 75,000 on it, where mine was up at just over 252,000kms. Sounded like a good idea.

I picked it up yesterday with glowing reports from him about what a lovely little car it is to drive. I hadn't gone more than 100 metres in it, when I put the foot down a bit in second gear, and it just died! It restarted OK, but each time I tried to accelerate, it would do it again. By "dying" I mean the engine would stop completely once I put my foot on the clutch,and I had to turn the ignition off and on again to restart it. I went straight back to him, and he took it for a drive, after he connected an OBD2 scanner. It gave us a P0087, "low fuel rail pressure" fault, and P1185, same descriptor. We surmised that since the new engine came with a high pressure pump, but no injectors, and we changed the injectors out of my old engine into the new one, maybe there is a mismatch, and the pump doesn't handle enough volume. We could only get the motor up to 2,500 rpm before it cutout each time.

I still took the car, thinking I could just drive slowly, but it is almost undriveable, very hard to takeoff with cars behind and not "peeve them off" with my slowness, and even in 5th gear,top speed is just over 105KPH before it dies again. Taking the live data stream from the OBD scanner, fuel rail pressure ranges from about 40 bar when decelerating, to over 135 bar when accelerating, and just before the point where it dies.  Without knowing specs, that seems high enough to me.

Also, this engine does seem anywhere near as powerful as the old one, in that previously, one could really feel the turbo "kick in" from 1500 rpm, but this one is a bit higher at about 1800, and then not the strong surge I felt with the old motor. So I have a very narrow range in which I can drive the car, if I have to keep revs between 1800 and 2400, the gap between 2nd/3rd gears is much wider that that.

I think I'll take it back this afternoon. He is going to contact the supplier of the engine for some ideas on Monday morning, as it sounds like he is fairly "cluey" on Hyundais. I've suggested to my mechanic that we take the pump off my old engine and put it on the new one, but that will require me to make the special tool to remove the pump, something that might take me a couple of days in between working to pay the bills.

I,m now thinking I would like to repair the timing chain problem in the old engine, now that it's out, and then swap it back into the car, then sell off the spare one.

Mike.

[mickd]

Hi Mike8,
Bummer, talk about a let down   
Don't know enough re: diesels to make useful suggestions, others will.

[sundiz]

Issue with the fuel filter may also cause those codes. I assume you used old ecu to control new engine. I think it would be fine as the old injectors are coded in the ecu.

[tw2005]

I'd be looking for things not connected fuel rail related. I'm not buying the mismatch theory, the engine may not be optimal until the injectors are coded but since you say no injectors came with and your old ones went back in, then your diligent mechanic would have noted which  cylinder each injector came out of anf installed into the same cylinder on the replacement? Yes? if he did then they are already coded to the ECU .

I can say I felt no difference and had no improvement in performance when I had my ecu coded to the replacement motor's injectors.

P1185 Fuel Pressure Monitoring-Maximum Pressure Exceeded

P1185 is set when 1)rail press. is higher than target rail press. by 200~350bar in condition that rail press. is controlled by Fuel pressure regulator valve or 2)rail press. exceeds maximum limiting value. This code is due to 1)more than intended fuel supply to common rail or 2)poor return of fuel supplied to common rail or 3)short to high voltage line in fuel press. sensor.

Fuel pressure regulator valve(open stuck)
● Rail pressure regulator valve(close stuck)
● Rail pressure sensor(Output fixed at high voltage line)


P0087 Rail Pressure Monitoring-Minimum Pressure at Engine Speed Too Low

P0087 is set when rail pressure is lower than target rail pressure by more than 200~150bar for more than 1.0 sec. in condition that rail press. is controlled by rail pressure control valve(PCV) or rail pressure is below the minimum limiting value(50~280bar). This code is due to 1)fuel less than target value supplied to common rail or 2)excessive return of fuel supplied to common rail or 3)short to low voltage line in fuel press. sensor.

   Fuel metering unit(close stuck)
● Rail pressure control valve(open stuck)
● Rail pressure sensor(Output fixed at low voltage line)


and why it cuts out:

ECM shuts engine down and sets DTC by limiting fuel (stops injector operation) in order to prevent engine from being controlled abnormally for both P1185, P0087

[Mike8]

Thanks for that info TW, I'll check with the mechanic tomorrow about whether or not each injector was marked and went back into the same cylinder. It's not something I would have been aware of, so if I'd done it, I could certainly say they didn't.

I thought most diesel injectors ran at 1-200 bar, so to see the max pressure on this one at 1800 bar is phenomenal, that's over 26,000 psi. (But then the last diesel I worked on is the one I'm standing next to in the photo, a 1951 Southern Cross 4 H.P. air cooled, 32 volt lighting plant!) So maybe my pressure is way below what it should be, as it only reaches 140 bar just before the engine cuts out. I'll show this post to the mechanic tomorrow afternoon when I see him, and he will be calling his "knowledge source" in the morning.

I now have the old motor at home with me, and have just been making room in the shed to work on it. Hopefully,I'll know soon what was causing the noise, and hopefully repair it.

Cheers, Mike.

[tw2005]

Yeah, I'm no diesel specialist. Just copying out of the manual but I have had my injectors coded and understand in principle. It won't be that though that's the issue.

sent an email, hopefully there's enough useful data in there to fault find

[sesel]

First place to start, Clean EGR valve, Air filter and wastegate
Second Check fuel metering selenoid if working correctly, use voltmeter to check current.
Check for any lose connection especially under the battery tray.
If not working then sell it.

[Mike8]

Thanks Sesel, who would buy it if it doesn't go, thanks for the advice all the same! Thanks for the email Gerard. Most useful while I'm still learning to use the electronic workshop manual.

The mechanic called today, and reckons it's the fuel pressure regulator on top of the high pressure pump. So I've taken the one off the old engine, now in my workshop, and will give it to him in the morning. Hope that fixes it. He has already fitted a new fuel filter, but that didn't fix it.

Will keep you posted.

Mike.

[Dazzler]

Fingers crossed for you Mike.. 

[nzenigma]

@Mike8 Mate, I don't think it is a big drama, you are just missing some point. Just to add to Gerard's info and your thoughts about the injector pressure.
The common rail (CRDi) system will run from 5000 psi up to 30,000 psi. Its dangerous so take care.
I probably know the supplier of your engine. They are ok blokes. The engine # and car vin # are recorded and will be on your receipt . So kms should be genuine.
You are achieving good pressure so the pump and valve should be good.
There is sensor on the end of the HP rail, ( screws in, looks like an oil pressure switch) if that has gunk in it the wrong signal is going to the ECU. You will get the symptoms described.
I would also check that all the lines to your turbo have been connected properly. eg. Are you getting boost?
There is a small plastic solenoid front of the motor, 3 rubber hoses go to it, check that it hasn't been broken
Irrespective of sesel's useful input  These are proven trouble free motors so..... what has changed, very little!
Your old motor was going fine, just chain rattle.
The new motor - 99.9% chance it is ok.
Its 'finger trouble' as we used to say. My guess is that your mechanic has not connected something.
Good luck stay in touch.  G

[Mike8]

Thanks "NZ", I just got a message from the  mechanic, who said it's all fixed. I asked him if it was that regulator, and without elaborating, he said yes. I'll probably find out more this afternoon when I pick it up. Meanwhile, he did make the comment "They go quite well for a little diesel", so hopefully I feel it goes as well as the old one, because she was a real "flier" before. If not, I may be tempted to repair the old one and put it back in. I'm going to repair that timing chain problem anyway, and then decide what to do with it.

On another subject, can anyone tell me about the Hyundai GDS system? I've just ordererd a scanner off Ebay, because after this little drama, I want to get a bit more familiar with the car and ECUs. The workshop manual I bought from manualsonline.com seems to have the facility to integrate with GDS, and take you straight to the problem and the "fix". But maybe that will only work with a fully legit and registered copoy of the manual, and a genuine GDS unit. I found a GDS unit for about $138 on a website like "chinacars....", and was wondering if it would be worth getting that.

Thanks to everyone for their input, this has been a most enlightening experience, and great to see how everyone chips in to help.

Cheers,  Mike.

[nzenigma]

That's good news Mike. Whatever he did,  it goes .
 Gerard downloaded the GDS manual, its a huge file , and apparently has all Hyundai models. To my knowledge it is still the only source for HY diesel info.
The ebay scanner will give you codes and point you in the right direction.
Thanks for letting us know. Cheers G

[diesel1984]

you didnt say what engine is in your car. 1.4 crdi , 1.6 crdi with 90 or 115 hp, 110, engine.. they are chain driven only.

How often did you changed oil? As some people done with this engine 500.000km with oem chain.

Well i also dont see why he changed the engine. Timing chain kit can be bought oem for 140eur with sprockets, guide rails, tensioners and what not..

[tw2005]

you didnt say what engine is in your car. 1.4 crdi , 1.6 crdi with 90 or 115 hp, 110, engine.. they are chain driven only.

How often did you changed oil? As some people done with this engine 500.000km with oem chain.

Well i also dont see why he changed the engine. Timing chain kit can be bought oem for 140eur with sprockets, guide rails, tensioners and what not..

I bought a whole wreck for a chain noises

[Mike8]

Thanks NZ, I'm not sure if it's the same one I downloaded, probably not, but mine was about 16 or 18 Gb from memory, took all night and then some to download. Also got the parts manual, but I didn't have enough space on the computer to unpack it. I since had an old laptop rehashed to "factory new", and a 500Gb hard drive fitted, which I'm going to use just for technical manuals like these.

And for "Diesel1984", I change oil AND filter every 10,000kms, with only the best grades of oil. I don't think it's a maintenance issue, just a case of bad luck. It's a 1.6CRDI, we don't have the smaller one here in Oz that I'm aware of. Yes plenty of them do last the life of the engine, however, mine didn't. In case you didn't read the earlier posts, I was originally going to get the timing chain done, but was quoted $2,400 for parts by Hyundai Australia, with my mainstream mechanic quoting $1-2000 for labour, so it could have come close to $5,000. My "back yard" mechanic, on the other hand, was charging less than half the labour rate. He owns a racing car, and is the mechanic for it, and is a very capable man that I have known for over 10 years, and everyone I have spoken to that knows him, swears by his ability. I was going to source the parts for him from Koraps, hence my downloading the parts manual. But after he spoke to a few people who had done the job before, he said it was a very difficult job in the car, there would be quite a long wait for the parts, (even Hyundai here did not stock them),and he suggested a crate engine. I agreed. Then he found a good low kms engine at a Hyundai wrecker, at a VERY GOOD price. That is how we came about putting another engine in it. He also put a new clutch in it. All up it cost me $2,220. And I still have the old engine which I'll do the chain on myself, and possibly sell off,although I won't have any way of test running it. It would almost have to be installed in a car to test run it. I don't want to sell it untested.

The car goes very well, I'm very pleased with it, although it does still have a small problem with power/torque not coming on at the moment I expect it (1,500rpm), and sometimes, I felt the power dropping off at about 3,000rpm, but certainly not to any huge extent. I will wait till I get my new Ebay scan tool, and see what it shows. But it is great to be back in my seriously loved i30 again!

Once again, thanks to everyone for your help and input,

Mike.

[diesel1984]

thats a lot of money for that job. My mechanic quoted 650euro for whole job with oil change and all oem parts with labour of course. 
He is specialised for korean and japan vehicles hyundai,kia,toyota,nissan,honda..
When i will need timing chain ill rather get it changed then buy a used engine.

[nzenigma]

thats a lot of money for that job. My mechanic quoted 650euro for whole job with oil change and all oem parts with labour of course. 
He is specialised for korean and japan vehicles hyundai,kia,toyota,nissan,honda..
When i will need timing chain ill rather get it changed then buy a used engine.

Mike got a good deal. He had the sense to stay away from any HY dealer. I have sourced almost brand new motors from his wrecker, dropped in - job done.
In Europe you have had a high % of diesel cars for a long time, therefore smaller mechanics have the right tools etc.
From your past post, your chain is grinding on a guide, that is not normal, it is overdue for a change, the engine is copping metal fragments.

[tw2005]

thats a lot of money for that job. My mechanic quoted 650euro for whole job with oil change and all oem parts with labour of course. 
He is specialised for korean and japan vehicles hyundai,kia,toyota,nissan,honda..
When i will need timing chain ill rather get it changed then buy a used engine.

Mike got a good deal. He had the sense to stay away from any HY dealer. I have sourced almost brand new motors from his wrecker, dropped in - job done.
In Europe you have had a high % of diesel cars for a long time, therefore smaller mechanics have the right tools etc.
From your past post, your chain is grinding on a guide, that is not normal, it is overdue for a change, the engine is copping metal fragments.

Looking at some of the eye watering figures I'm  Now where's my girl, TAXI! . Oh here she is

[nzenigma]

Thanks NZ, I'm not sure if it's the same one I downloaded, probably not, but mine was about 16 or 18 Gb from memory,
The car goes very well, I'm very pleased with it, although it does still have a small problem with power/torque not coming on at the moment I expect it (1,500rpm), and sometimes, I felt the power dropping off at about 3,000rpm, but certainly not to any huge extent. I will wait till I get my new Ebay scan tool, and see what it shows. But it is great to be back in my seriously loved i30 again!
Once again, thanks to everyone for your help and input,Mike.

Thanks for the thanks Mike. As above, that was more than fair price for Australia. Yes , you have the correct monster download.
Have a think before you repair the old one, given that they are readily available at the wreckers, and privately almost impossible to sell as your buyer can have complications with the WOVR.
 I have 5 low km motors sitting in my parts shed that will make great boat anchors. They are too reliable. The only time I will need one is if someone's wife rips a sump and keeps driving.
Regarding the cars performance, I am still suspicious of the turbo set up. Its a manual, it should perform like a sports car.
Take the top cover off and follow the downloaded diagrams to check everything is in place, no fractured hoses etc.
And don't get in a lather looking for Sesel's wastegate, like most diesels, it doesn't have one.
Cheers G

[diesel1984]

thats a lot of money for that job. My mechanic quoted 650euro for whole job with oil change and all oem parts with labour of course. 
He is specialised for korean and japan vehicles hyundai,kia,toyota,nissan,honda..
When i will need timing chain ill rather get it changed then buy a used engine.

Mike got a good deal. He had the sense to stay away from any HY dealer. I have sourced almost brand new motors from his wrecker, dropped in - job done.
In Europe you have had a high % of diesel cars for a long time, therefore smaller mechanics have the right tools etc.
From your past post, your chain is grinding on a guide, that is not normal, it is overdue for a change, the engine is copping metal fragments.

For prices.. yes we have a lot of choices and a lot of cars.  Bare used engine "block and head" with low km is here around 800-1000eur. Labour to change it is around 100-200eur. So lets say at half.

chain noise
I can bet that this 75.000km low km engine have the same sound as my 200.000km engine. I have this same sound for at last 180.000km

[nzenigma]

    Mike and Gerard are the ones to bet with. They have experienced the old rattle and the new.

"Labour to change it is around 100-200eur. So lets say at half." (=150?)
 To remove and strip a motor; refit parts and install the new motor is about 8hrs labour, if all goes well. Therefore the workshop is charging 12.5 -25 Eur/hour.  What do they pay the mechanic in Europe  ?

[diesel1984]

I'm not sure what happened with Gerard's chain.  I know he asked something about the noise

Yes.. around 20eur for working hour at specialised shop, 33eur at hyundai dealer.. cmon you can change the whole clutch kit labour with gearbox oil change for 70eur.

[Mike8]

Hey Diesel84, I should put my old girl on a boat to Europe, and get her repaired there! Then I can have a quick holiday in the snow at the same time(not being facetious, I love Europe, and the cold). But I do believe I was well looked after by the mechanic. Other than paying for the fuel filter, $40,and a six pack of exotic ale, $25, to cover the cost of borrowing a scanner, he refused to take any more money for labour when I took it back to him.

Thanks again "NZ" and "TW". I must say I am very happy with the new motor, it goes at least a well as the old one, and yes, I do class it as almost sports car performance. Especially when going up my driveway at home, which is uphill, and without dropping the clutch, just putting the foot down, will start the wheels spinning on the bitumen, in second gear. In the wet, I have to very careful, she'll spin them easily in third too.

After I picked it up from the mech, while it went very well, with tons of torque, I noticed a couple of times that the motor got to about 3,000 and just "levelled off" the power. putting the foot down further didn't help. But if I took my foot off, and then put it back down, it seemed to come right and go like the clappers again. It just felt like the turbo boost was dropping off for some reason. I also noticed the turbo "grunt" didn't happen until 1,800 to 2,000, whereas before, with the old motor, it cut in reliably at 1,500 every time. I didn't tell the mech about it, thought I'd wait till my new scanner turned up, which it did the very next day, a day earlier than promised by the Ebay seller. So I plugged it in and went for a drive. All was well, with MAP showing up to 255 Kpa at full throttle each time. Then, it "played up" again, and I glanced at the scanner, and MAP was dropping rapidly down to 140. Pumping the accelerator once saw it jump up quickly to 255, and the full power come on again. I dropped in the see Rob (the mechanic) this afternoon after work, and managed to "force" a little cash between his fingers. He was also very impressed with my code scanner, and said he would order one for himself. I mentioned the little problem, but he couldn't shed any light on it, not that I wanted him to, he's had enough of it for now. But he's also very impressed with the Diesel i30, and now wants to buy one for his daughter.

This afternoon, I did as "NZ" suggested, and checked all the hoses around the turbo, and that solenoid at the front of the engine with three hoses going to it, but nothing seemed amiss. I still have to familiarise myself more with the manual, and find that diagram you mentioned, and see if I can pick the problem any better. The problem does seem to be getting worse, with it happening quite a lot, and no turbo boost till well over 2,000 rpm. Hopefully, it'll make it easier to find. I'm in the electrical/refrigeration game, and we often say that an electrical fault that may trip an earth leakage breaker with a few milliamps fault current can be difficult to trace, but in the old days before ELCBs, there was nothing to trip until the fault current reached many amps,and eventually "blew out" with a bright blue flash, which invariably made it easier to pinpoint. I'll have a drive of about 140 km tomorrow, and will again connect the scantool, and see if I get any closer to the problem.

Cheers, Mike.

[diesel1984]

You must say some more details for someone to help you..for the swap. Did you used the same engine hp? U1 or u2? Was it the swap with turbocharger,sensors,ecu.. and other stufff or only bare block with head? Partial swap with sensors and only old turbo and injectors? Hp pump? Intake manifold plastic or metal? Dpf +, dpf- ?There can be a few differences?

[nzenigma]

The problem does seem to be getting worse, with it happening quite a lot, and no turbo boost till well over 2,000 rpm. Hopefully, it'll make it easier to find. I'm in the electrical/refrigeration game, and we often say that an electrical fault that may trip an earth leakage breaker with a few milliamps fault current can be difficult to trace, but in the old days before ELCBs, there was nothing to trip until the fault current reached many amps,and eventually "blew out" with a bright blue flash, which invariably made it easier to pinpoint. I'll have a drive of about 140 km tomorrow, and will again connect the scantool, and see if I get any closer to the problem.

Cheers, Mike.

Mike, check and clean MAF / MAP sensors. You can probably swap the old into the new to test. Sorry, had a feeling that your guy hadn't solved it properly. You are using the right approach though.
 I also spent time in the old school electrical trade. TVs with an intermittent fault , a 'dog', as we called them, were both a pain and a challenge. You could never recover the full labour cost of something that may take several days to fail.

[nzenigma]

You must say some more details for someone to help you..for the swap. Did you used the same engine hp? U1 or u2? Was it the swap with turbocharger,sensors,ecu.. and other stufff or only bare block with head? Partial swap with sensors and only old turbo and injectors? Hp pump? Intake manifold plastic or metal? Dpf +, dpf- ?There can be a few differences?

We don't have DPF. All 1.6L  Plastic manifold was GD. U2 was in last FDs onward. The supplier knows i30s and 90% chance he would have supplied FD motor for an FD. Irrespective, once in the car, the once bare motor will run or it wont. The variable performance is a non-mechanical fault.

Yes.. around 20eur for working hour at specialised shop, 33eur at hyundai dealer.. cmon you can change the whole clutch kit labour with gearbox oil change for 70eur.

You don't state your location. Your local rates will vary eg. Germany vs. Greece  etc . To compare your situation with Australia is a bit futile.
Now 20 -30 eur/hr  is the mechanic's wage, similar rates here in Au$. BUT! that is not what the workshop charges; far from it!
The shop has overheads and an owner who would like to make a profit.
As before, I would quote Mike's job based on 8 hours labour. You also need to allow for down time if you need to source a replacement motor.

[Mike8]

Thanks "NZ", you've answered "Diesel" very well. I knew they made this engine in several different horsepowers, but I would not have any idea what mine is. U1 or U2?? AND very interesting what you say about DPF.... I have asked the Hyundai dealer twice about whether or not mine has a DPF, and they couldn't tell me! They said they would have to get a mechanic to look at it,and that would cost me, so I've been buying oil to suit the DPF, so that I would not damage it if I did have one. What an enlightenment! And the dealer could not tell me! Also, basically bare engine, with diesel pump, but no injectors, no turbo, no ex. manifold, no flywheel. It had an inlet manifold, but the old engine had it removed, and in the box with all other bits and pieces, so not sure if the new engine has my old manifold or the one that came with it.

Further on rates. When I asked my mechanic before he started, how much he charges for labour, he said $30 to 50 per hour. I said I'd happily pay him 50, because the other mechanic, who runs a business, and has to make a profit, and maintains commercial premises, has to train staff, pay holiday and sick leave etc, keeps a large stock of spares and oils, greases, coolants etc, charges $125 per hour. Now normally I don't mind paying a business a reasonable charge for work done, however, going through some "crap" in my personal life, has left me rather low on funds, and combined with the commercial bloke saying he couldn't do the job for 6 weeks due to a backlog of work, I was more than happy to use my old mate. Besides, I would hate to hear what the Hy dealer charges, but I will endeavour to find out for you.

Cheers, Mike.

P.S. Just tried to preview this post using the keyboard shortcut alt + p, and it opened a new window to translate to another language. I'll use the button as previously.

[nzenigma]

Just clarify My " we don't have DPF", it may be on this years i30, @Dazzler will know, but not the previous FD or GD models.
The Santa Fe and ix35 have had DPF for a couple of years.

[Dazzler]

Just clarify My " we don't have DPF", it may be on this years i30, @Dazzler will know, but not the previous FD or GD models.
The Santa Fe and ix35 have had DPF for a couple of years.

Yes, apparently DPF is on the Aussie delivered PD i30 Diesel. But as you say not te FD or GD in Oz.

[Mike8]

I better not buy the new model then, I'm told DPFs can be a lot of trouble,and to replace one costs more than a timing chain! .

I went for my drive yesterday, and after about 20 minutes on the road, I had practically no turbo boost at all below 3,500 revs. below that, only minimal, MAP around 105 to 115kpa, or 5 to 15 kpa of boost. I called the mechanic about it, as I was thinking that maybe the turbo had seized, or at least got "tight" and not spinning freely. He said it was possible, especially how he saw me pull up at his place on Friday avo, and noticed I switched the engine off the moment I pulled up. He said "Don't you let it idle for a few seconds before turning the engine off?". He said,"It's got a turbo, and it needs time to slow down, before you turn off the engine, because it can still be spinning at high speed, and then it loses oil pressure". Well, I responded that I thought that only applied to after market turbos, and that if that was a requirement, it would have a built in turbo timer. So I decided to check the vehicle handbook (if all else fails.... read the instructions ), and it states, "After high speed or extended driving requiring a heavy engine load, idle the engine for about 1 minute before turning it off. This idle time will allow the turbocharger time to cool prior to shutting the engine off". I always thought that the turbo timers were for cooling, rather than oil supply. So, does anybody just turn the engine off immediately? Or do most idle the engine for a few seconds before shut down?

I drove the rest of the way to my destination cautiously, so as not to "force" the turbo to spin hard. When I left there a couple of hours later, she performed like the devil again, with heaps of turbo boost from down low. As it warmed up, the revs at which turbo boost would come in increased quickly. But 30 minutes into the return journey, I stopped at a bakery for a pie, (Calliope Bakery, best pies in Qld only 2 mins off the Bruce, in case anyone passes this way), I was only out of the car for about 2 mins, and with the motor and turbo still hot, took off, and the turbo boost was good again. so it's not seizing or getting tight when hot, methinks. I'm going out to it now, to have a look at her again, and check the MAF and MAP sensors.

Unfortunately,I can't find a diagram of the turbo system or even any mention of the turbo in my manual, I must be looking in the wrong place. Maybe tw or NZ can point me to where it is. There is that vacuum actuator on top of the turbo, which looks like it might divert exhaust gases around the turbo, thereby controlling it's operation, but I can't get a good look in that area. Anyone confirm that?

Also, looking through the manual on the computer, there is a lot of reference to tests with the scan tool, reading things that mine doesn't show. It does say that they are using the GDS scantool, so how do the rest of you go with scan tools? Ordinary cheapies off Ebay like I did, or do you use a GDS one. Chinacardiags have one for $US119, but I doubt it would be genuine at that price. Not sure if it will interface with the electronic service manual either. Does anyone have any experience before I shell for that needlessly?

Regards,

Mike.