[ETBill]

Stop lights on right and left side do not work, high mounted light does.  Cruise control turns ON (dash indicator lights up) but it will not set speed.  Cruise control issues were what I noticed:  the cruise control began to "kick off" while set, then it would take several tries to set the cruise, and then the cruise would not set at all.

I have read as many posts as I can find, and chased down possibilities.  There seems to be lots of posts about the problem, but I haven't found many solutions.

Here is what I have done so far:
1.  Checked the wiring my removing interior panels on right and left side.  No damage to wiring.  Wire colors to lights on Left side is same as wire color to lights on right side (I do not believe car is equipped with burned out bulb indicator)
2.  Checked other lights in right and left side:  turn signals, parking lights, hazard flashers all work correctly
3.  Replaced all bulbs in left side with new bulbs
4.  Cleaned bulb contacts (not corroded) and bent contacts up to so more pressure is on bulb terminal
5.  Removed stop light switch from brake pedal and manipulated it by hand
6.  Replaced stop light switch with new part, manipulated that one by hand
7.  Reset ECM by removing negative and positive terminals, removing (3) ECU fuses, jumpered neg and pos battery terminals together, and left battery disconnect for 1 hour

The stop switch has two poles.  One side (common) of the 1st pole has 12VDC all the time.  This pole switches when the stop light switch is relaxed (brake pedal depressed) so the other side (Normally Open) has 12VDC.  I believe this pole is connected to the high mount stop light.

One side (common) of the 2nd pole has a connection to ground with a resistance value of 470 Ohm.  I assume this is by design, and that this resistance value is what turns on the stop lights.

Has anyone run across a solution to this issue? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, and I will follow up and post if I can get anything to restore stop lights to the car.  THANKS!

[ETBill]

I should have added:  car is a US spec Elantra Touring, 2012 model, 2.0 gas engine.

[ETBill]

I found one post that may be relevant.  The OP had taken his i30 to a dealer to get the stop lights working, and a relay was replaced, part no 95240-2L100.  If anyone has any information on how to locate that relay, I would appreciate it.

[Greyhound]

Just found this thread on here:
Recall on brake light switch

[ETBill]

Recall on brake light switch
[/quote]

I replaced the brake light switch (number 6 on my list of things I have tried), no change.  They are inexpensive, so I am going to pick up another brake light switch, just in case I ended up with a bad replacement the 1st time.

Just found this thread on here:

[ETBill]

I added a Step 8:  replaced the brake switch with another new one, no change.   

[Greyhound]

Dont know if this may be of help. Ignore the title about "Even top bar". Scroll down until you see post by JESSESIXTY8 which seems same symptoms you have.
Brake Lights Dont Work, Even Top Bar

Also this one. Scroll to the last post. Brake Light Problem | Hyundai Forums
I guess could be bulb or wiring poor connection issue in that case fixed by removal/replacement.
 

[ETBill]

Dont know if this may be of help. Ignore the title about "Even top bar". Scroll down until you see post by JESSESIXTY8 which seems same symptoms you have.
Brake Lights Dont Work, Even Top Bar

Also this one. Scroll to the last post. Brake Light Problem | Hyundai Forums
I guess could be bulb or wiring poor connection issue in that case fixed by removal/replacement.

I read every post, but did not see a resolution.  I believe the signal wire to the brake lights has been cut somewhere in the interior of the car.  I do not think it will make sense to pay a shop to try and find it.  I will cut the original stop light signal wires, and wire in a connection from the high mounted LED stop light.  I will replace the existing stop/tail lights with LED bulbs.  With LED bulbs, the additional bulbs on the circuit should not draw too much current.  I do not think this is a common issue with the i30, and I think changing the circuits in this way will be a good fix for ours.  Thanks for your help.

[The Gonz]

I will cut the original stop light signal wires, and wire in a connection from the high mounted LED stop light. I will replace the existing stop/tail lights with LED bulbs. With LED bulbs, the additional bulbs on the circuit should not draw too much current.

A reasonable approach. I've changed all to LED on my FD except for the main and high beams, including all the interior. I agree the load from the LEDs should not stress splicing into the top taillights.

[BrendanP]

My concern is that if you've lost continuity in the wire running to the brake lights because it's cut or broken, then there may other wires in the same loom that are also damaged and eventually these may cause other faults. I have run a new wire from the trunk compartment to the front fuse box, I don't think it would be much more effort than having to run a new wire from the loom to the high level brake light to the trunk. I'm an electrical engineer by profession and I'm pretty comfortable trying to find wiring faults, though it's a lot harder without a wiring diagram. I think trying to solve the root cause of a fault is preferable to trying to come up with a work around.

[ETBill]

I took three fasteners off the headliner next to the hatch to expose the LED stoplight wiring.  With the brake pedal depressed, I probed the wires until I found the high mount LED stop light signal wire.  This was a white wire with lettering on it.  There were several white wires in the bundle that goes from the car interior to the hatch door.

I removed the L & R tail light assemblies.  There is an upper and lower stop light / tail light bulb on each side.  The lower bulb socket on each side had a green wire (stop light) that was not connected.  The upper bulb socket green wire was connected (and in my case, the signal no longer works).

I connected the un-used lower socket green wire to a new wire which I connected to the high mount LED stop light signal wire.  In this way if the issue with the original stop light signal is resolved, the wire splice can be removed and the car returned to the way it was. 

I was able to move the hatch weather stripping out of the way to tuck the splice wire behind the interior panels on each side.  I put a small slit in the rubber grommet where the tail light assembly wiring leaves the car body, so the new splice wire will be obvious to anyone working on the car in the future.

The four stop/tail light bulbs were replaced with Amazon Best Seller 2357 replacement LEDs, which are brighter than the original incandescent. 

[The Gonz]

The four stop/tail light bulbs were replaced with Amazon Best Seller 2357 replacement LEDs, which are brighter than the original incandescent.

All up, a good outcome for what you had.

[Endeavor]

ETBill, i have the repari manual for your model in electronic format. Let me know if you need it.
Is the amazon  bulbs set a direct replacement?