[xiziz]

Hey,

So I did all my brake cleaning/servicing last Saturday, about 15000km to late(because reasons, had it in for service but they don't touch the brakes more than top of the reservoir). They were a real bugger and the pins were stuck hard. Got em all loose and cleaned and relubed, but getting out for a drive its making a terrible racket, car is breaking constantly.  I felt them with my hand and got a burn from the rear right yesterday, so jacked up and redid everything, pins were already seized in place. Noticed that the rubber seal had ripped(a 2mm long sliver of the bottom, no straight through, removed the sliver and reused the pin) on one of the pins. Relubed and reassembled and noise seemed gone on a short test drive.
I decided to bring my IR thermometer this morning to check after my 75km commute, which does not have a lot of braking. Was making the same racket, like the brakes are lightly applied the entire trip.

Ambient is 15c.
Front left 45c
Front right 35c
Rear left 35c
Rear right 55c
Measured on the rotors.

So I think I need new pins, atleast to replace the damaged one. I bet there gonna be expensive here so probably cheaper to order from koraps, but I need the numbers, do any of you have them?
Or any ideas for alternate solutions?

[yodm]

I am not an expert or a professional mechanic. but the temperatures seems low, so the pads are not forced to the disks.
even a short drive with light braking  will get the disks hot to the degree of a burn.
on a floating caliper, the pads are slightly touching (floating) the disks, so the pads are always kept in working temperature.

[xiziz]

Yeah, the front right and rear left are normal, but when I got home friday, front left was at 105c and rear right at 65c. And fuel consumption is up plus the noise like brakes are lightly applied. (The other two same as above).
I usually eco drive and dont pass any stop signs/lights on my 75km commute, so brakes dont get a lot of use. I make a point of using them atleast in a few corners to keep them working.

I found the culprit though, the lube I used the last time was petroleum based(had to look at the factory saftey sheet online to find out... is marketed for this purpose) which has caused the rubber seals on the pins to swell and seize the pins. Which is why Im on the hunt for new pins.

Edit: removed the rubber seals that have swelled and the pins are moving normally again. Probably a bad idea in the long run, but should work untill I can source som new ones. Now the car is queit enough again that I can hear that a wheels gone out of balance, probably lost a weight going on all those gravel roads on Gotland.

[tw2005]

Bit tricky quoting part numbers with little info or VIN. Looks like there are 2 rear brake setups.

Traditional handbrake and electronic park brake.

One has 2 x 582211H000

One has 1 x 582211H000, 1 x 582221H000

boots 581641H000

catalog is contradicting itself with EPB and cable handbrake numbers

Question is if the pins are corroded, what's the area inside the bores of the mount they slide in like ? Does not appear they can be supplied, complete caliper only

[tw2005]

[BrendanP]

I've had the same problem, I bought replacement pins from a 3rd party manufacturer in UK, cost about £10 for a front caliper, and £12-50 for rear caliper. This included a sachet of special grease which doesn't make the rubber parts swell up. Some of the pins were very difficult to remove. To clean the hole in the caliper, I used a twist drill of the same diameter as the pin to clean out as much scale and rust as possible, by hand. When replacing the brake pads, I found it a lot easier to unscrew the caliper from the slider pins to separate the caliper from the yoke. Considering the cost of the pins in relation to discs and pads, it's worth replacing them as a matter of routine. If they stick you can end up prematurely wearing out the pads, and the resultant heat could also damage the seals in the caliper, which makes it very expensive.

[xiziz]

@tw2005 thanks a bunch! Thats the ones. Nothing wrong with my pins, there all looking good and still have their respective chrome/yellow coating on. Just me that used the wrong grease that ruined the rubber(has to be silicone based). I think finding the rubber is a longshot so will replace the top pins(with the seal on) when the time comes, in november when i put the winter tires on i think. This means that i also need the front one if you have it on hand?

Got the vin too, guess there is plenty of different brakes used on these. Dont know if its ok to post it(but i suppose it should be, since its on the windscreen so Ill send a pm).

Talked to some mechs at the garage today when I had them looking at my rear tire noise(no fault and the noise was gone when I left, but they said the bearing and brakes are all good which was what i was worried about, warranty lapsing in 3 months, must have been dirt or something) and they said they regularly remove the rubber seals on cars with stuck pins and dont replace, just a bunch more grease to prevent the pin from vibrating. Which is fine if you regularly regrease them. No one seems to know the exact purpose of the seal.

Today the brakes were all at 25c after my commute at 15c ambient. Much more what I expected.

@BrendanP yeah, though its an additional cost and they should last longer than the rest assuming there correctly lubricated... very easy to change if needed too, just two bolt and moving the caliper off them.

[tw2005]

581641H000  front caliper boots



581611H000 x 2





581621H000 x 2

[xiziz]

Once again, thank you very much for your help @tw2005

[diesel1984]

581641H000  front caliper boots



581611H000 x 2





581621H000 x 2

Thanks for this info. I have the same situation, pins with bush are totaly blocked. Think someone mixed upper and lower sliders with bush. On front calipers are at lower position. And rear ones are also at lower position.

Can you tell me if you know correct positions and if sliders with bush are the same for front and rear callipers. I think i will also buy all 4 to be at safe side.

[tw2005]

581641H000  front caliper boots



581611H000 x 2





581621H000 x 2

Thanks for this info. I have the same situation, pins with bush are totaly blocked. Think someone mixed upper and lower sliders with bush. On front calipers are at lower position. And rear ones are also at lower position.

Can you tell me if you know correct positions and if sliders with bush are the same for front and rear callipers. I think i will also buy all 4 to be at safe side.

  No I don't and no time right now.

Try trolling in the catalog although I think from memory I think it was confusing applied to what vehicle. Failing that maybe the OEM manual may detail that but you'll have to wait 12 hours or hope someone else has time to have a dig.

parts catalog HYUNDAI [Europe], original catalog HYUNDAI [Europe], online catalog HYUNDAI [Europe], Car catalog HYUNDAI [Europe]

[tw2005]

@diesel1984

Have you worked it out yet?

[diesel1984]

Hi,

Found it.

58222-1H000 is pin for rear caliper.

[tw2005]

Hi,

Found it.

58222-1H000 is pin for rear caliper.

Cool, I get the night off then.

I found the catalog confusing with the EPB option.

Suggests

582221H000 is at the bottom,

582211H000 is at the top

[diesel1984]

It seems if car have standard parking brake slider pins with rubber bushings sits at top of the caliper on front and the rear.

My car have it mixed by someone. Probably they were blocking at top positions and they change it to go smoother. Front left have bush on top, front right at bottom, rear left bottom, rear right top. Rubber part is totally swallowed.

[tw2005]

It seems if car have standard parking brake slider pins with rubber bushings sits at top of the caliper on front and the rear.

My car have it mixed by someone. Probably they were blocking at top positions and they change it to go smoother. Front left have bush on top, front right at bottom, rear left bottom, rear right top. Rubber part is totally swallowed.

Manual shows squat. You can provide a full report when it's all sorted