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Creaking while turning steering wheel at low speeds.

i30joe · 46 · 17009

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Offline i30joe

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Over the past few days I've noticed a creaking coming from the driver side front wheel when the steering wheel is turned at low speeds.

I googled this and came to the conclusion it was the  ball joint. But I jacked up the car and tested for play putting my hands at 12-6 and got no play. So apparently that's not the issue.

While I was there I tested between 9-3 and got a bit of play.

Can anyone possibly shed some light.

I have a video of the noise that I'm trying to figure how to upload it.

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Offline i30joe

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Offline nzenigma

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All I can say from the video is I believe you, but to locate the noise ??????
A small bit of play in the rack  at 9-3 is not unusual.
Does the noise disappear when the car is jacked up?
If so, weight is off the lower ball and bearing on top of the strut, these could be the culprit.
Other course is to get a helper to turn steering wheel while you get your ear dirty.
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Offline tw2005

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All I can say from the video is I believe you, but to locate the noise ??????
A small bit of play in the rack  at 9-3 is not unusual.
Does the noise disappear when the car is jacked up?
If so, weight is off the lower ball and bearing on top of the strut, these could be the culprit.
Other course is to get a helper to turn steering wheel while you get your ear dirty.
:goodjob: Strut Tower bearing I think could be the prime suspect,
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Offline Claybuster

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I had the same problem with my 2015 vehicle still under warranty and had the top bearings and mounts replaced by dealer problem cured. I then had the same problem on my 2016 SE and dealer referred to a bulletin and they lubricated the top bearings.
This did seem to cure the problem although i was a bit dubious with this remedy seeing that they had replaced the components on my privious i30
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Offline i30joe

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Thanks for the replies guys. I'm gonna jack it up and have a good look around problem is I don't have much time to do anything with it I'm travelling 300 miles over the weekend. Hoping it will cause no problems with this.

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Offline Dazzler

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Don't sue me if I'm wrong, but i would think a creaking bush or similar would be unlikely to fail in the short term. Safe travels!  :cool:
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Offline nzenigma

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Same Same :goodjob2:
She is always right.
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Offline i30joe

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Halfway through my travels and all is well.

Took it to see a friend of mine who is a mechanic and thinks it's a strut top bearing.

Says it will be fine to travel and if the noise gets louder turn up the stereo lol.

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Offline Dazzler

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Halfway through my travels and all is well.

Took it to see a friend of mine who is a mechanic and thinks it's a strut top bearing.

Says it will be fine to travel and if the noise gets louder turn up the stereo lol.

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Offline tw2005

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Halfway through my travels and all is well.

Took it to see a friend of mine who is a mechanic and thinks it's a strut top bearing.

Says it will be fine to travel and if the noise gets louder turn up the stereo lol.

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Of course however missing two caveats>

1. if the noise exceeds the maximum output of said stereo, pull over

2. If you see smoke, pull over

Otherwise the stereo fixes everything or you could be more politically correct and simply insert suitably authorised ear plugs to save both prevent hearing loss and the cones from the speakers from departing the scene too :mrgreen:




 
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Offline i30joe

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Thanks for the advice. Don't worry I did take the stereo advice as a joke and will get it sorted soon.

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Offline i30joe

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Just been to see the mechanic and he had a good look at it and is sure it's the bottom ball joint. Booked in for Friday.

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Offline tw2005

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See if you can get it back and take some pics, interesting mainly because the joint is encased in grease with a boot to seal. Being that noisy suggests the boot has failed and the joint is dry in which case I'd expect accelerated wear .

would not take much to isolate either, simply disconnect the strut tower and rotate either the steering knuckle or tower and listen out
« Last Edit: May 08, 2018, 18:13:51 by tw2005 »
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Offline i30joe

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I'll take some pictures. But he did spend 10 mins isolating it and lifted the car to take the weight off. I'll try and get some pictures.

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Offline i30joe

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Just got the car back from the mechanic after closer inspection it's the lower arm bush. Says it will be £100.

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Offline i30joe

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Suggested to replace the bushes. Priced the arm itself at £40 and sure I could do it myself.

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Offline i30joe

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What I need to know is.

Do I need to replace the pair?

Do I need to get the alignment done ?

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Offline tw2005

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What I need to know is.

Do I need to replace the pair?

Do I need to get the alignment done ?

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Do I need to replace the pair?  NO, but it's  not a bad idea. in British money sounds cheap. genuine arms?

Do I need to get the alignment done ? depends. It's probably a good idea to but having said that the only adjustment is toe-in which is at the rack. The rest of the geometry is set and can only change with degradation of the bushes.

So essentially you'd get away with not doing it but keep in mind if you've had regular alignments the Toe-in may have been tweaked as these bushings changed.

Was it the small inner bush gone?
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Offline i30joe

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He didn't say. Quoted me 100 to change the Bush alone and 200 to change the arm itself. The arm I found was on eBay and was just quoted as the correct arm for my car. But doesn't come with the ball joint.

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Offline tw2005

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Just got the car back from the mechanic after closer inspection it's the lower arm bush. Says it will be £100.

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LOL, had my suspiscions. Like I implied earlier for a ball joint to creak like that it would be totally dry and be loose potentially at the point of failure and separation.

also if you are DIY, the bolts on the arms should be tightened with the arm in it's natural resting position when the vehicle is sitting on the road.
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Offline tw2005

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He didn't say. Quoted me 100 to change the Bush alone and 200 to change the arm itself. The arm I found was on eBay and was just quoted as the correct arm for my car. But doesn't come with the ball joint.

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Correct it won't come with the joint. I rebushed mine and did the joints on one. I'd expect you may have read it. I have been adding to that post but I had someone with a press give me a hand and it was a hell of a job getting the small inner bushing out.

On the latest car I found someone here with brand new arms OEM for $80 a side, at that price not even worth considering rebushing unless you wanted to go Nolathane.

Have you noticed any loss in steering stability? Bot of mine i could detect  a direction change with road camber say crossing lanes and the wagon would change direction especially with off camber and applying brakes.

I'm still a little surprised it's making that much noise just turning the wheel if it's those bushings. Mine never did.
 Did you want the OEM numbers ?



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Offline tw2005

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Notice the extra piece of bracket welded. that's a change from the originals during production, maybe strengthening but none of mine had that from factory.

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Offline i30joe

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Noticed no other effect apart from the noise if I'm honest everything has been fine. Mechanic thinks if it is left it will cause excessive wear on the tyres.

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Offline tw2005

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Noticed no other effect apart from the noise if I'm honest everything has been fine. Mechanic thinks if it is left it will cause excessive wear on the tyres.

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If it's failed then the geometry would be out
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Offline tw2005

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545512H000
BUSH - FRONT LOWER ARM "A"



545842H000
BUSH - LOWER ARM



545002H000
ARM COMPLETE - FRONT LOWER, LH



545012H000
ARM COMPLETE - FRONT LOWER, RH





« Last Edit: May 11, 2018, 20:36:35 by tw2005 »
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Offline Dazzler

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Thanks again for all your input Gerard. You and Gary are awesome. I'm sure most members you help  appreciate it.  Hopefully they realise your  efforts are purely voluntary and unpaid.  :goodjob2: :goodjob:
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Offline i30joe

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Yeah I totally appreciate all of the wisdom you guys give that's why your normally the first port of call.

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Offline nzenigma

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Thanks again for all your input Gerard. You and Gary are awesome. I'm sure most members you help  appreciate it.  Hopefully they realise your  efforts are purely voluntary and unpaid.  :goodjob2: :goodjob:

Thanks Dazz, Gerard's covered it all-almost :happydance:, I'm over here with the master race, so doing a bit of catch up.

Something to add, doing the math on rebush v. buy whole unit is something that joe can work out. To do this DIY is fairly simple, I stress one of Gerard's comments- tighten bolt 54651D with full weight of car on the wheel. If you get Nolothane or Neoprene bushes you must do them on both left and right arms because the car handle differently, especially under brakes. I went that way on an FD recently, liked the result and yes needed a wheel alignment afterwards.

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